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Vinson [Updated]: Team Arrives in Antarctica

It was a long day, although with perpetual daylight and a lot of excitement, we hardly noticed. Starting at 4:30 AM, we were off to Punta Arenas airport to board our Ilyushin flight to Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica. The Ilyushin is a remarkable plane, capable of carrying huge payload long distances in tough conditions. But, luxury is not its forte. To get an idea, imagine 3 railroad freight cars tied together and sent aloft. Luxury aside, the Ilyushin is an experience of Antarctica not to be missed, and is quite a plane. The pilots dropped us on the 3 mile, blue ice runway as if it were a strip of cotton, and we all excitedly stepped off onto the ice. The new Union Glacier camp - Antarctica headquarters of ALE - is as nice as it gets in every aspect. The ALE staff, who spend months here on the ice helping people fulfill their Antarctic dreams, do great work making sure every need is attended to. It all started with a gourmet lunch in the toasty dining tent, filling our bellies and putting smiles on our faces. We were all pretty comfy at Union Glacier, and not too opposed to the idea of staying a night there. But, then word came we would continue our journey, flying in an hour on to Vinson Basecamp (VBC). It is rare to NOT have a delay at some point in the transition from Punta Arenas to Basecamp. Delays of a week or more are actually quite common. So, we weren't going to complain at getting all the way to Vinson Basecamp in one day - especially a warm, sunny one like we had. Yet again we were off, in a two-part journey to VBC. A larger plane ferried us to the Nimmitz Glacier, where a Twin Otter took us the final 10 minutes to VBC. Kent Harvey and I went first in order to get good imagery of the Otter landing on the snow at VBC and the team's arrival. Unfortunately, after dropping us off, the Otter pilot fell and broke his wrist. Fortunately he'll be OK, but that incident added another 4 hours to the rest of the team arriving. But, arrive they finally did, and we got camp set up in the stunning cirque of VBC. Jagged peaks soar above us, clad in massive glaciers under a never-setting sun. Seth made a great dinner of Dinty Moore meals, and sent us all to bed. It was 12:10 AM when I finally turned in, sunglasses still on. Welcome to Antarctica.
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Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Carry to 14k

Wednesday, June 22, 2022 - 10:18 pm PT

Greetings from airy 11,000' Camp where the mountaineers flock like the salmon of Capistrano. Would you indulge us in settling this morning’s debate: is there a more superior cereal than Cinnamon Toast Crunch (CTC to those in the know). This writer thinks not and attributes todays stellar team performance to this fortifying breakfast enjoyed over laughter and the spirit of camaraderie that only six days of shared tents, suffering and toilet buckets can conjure.

Today’s adventure began with the famed Motorcycle Hill. We cruised harder than Harry and Floyd en route to Aspen. Squirrel Hill elevated us to new and exciting views as we caught our breath before crossing the polo field. No polo was played. And then of course the much anticipated windy corner, which was hot and windless. Overall a gain of over 3000 feet.

On the descent the heavens darkened and in recognition of the fervor and prowess of this team, released thunder that rolled and echoed off the surrounding ice. We have declared our team name: the thundercats. And like Thor wielding his hammer, the thundercats will brandish their ice axes on the upper mountain if the weather allows.

We have handed off the hula hoop to Hannah’s team at 14,000'. Kiira claims she cannot be beaten in a hula hoop contest. We beg to differ, and look forward to proving it in a couple short days when we return to 14k to claim our camp and our cache and our hula hoop title.

We are enjoying resting at camp tonight and have planned a spa day for tomorrow. The hot springs here are just divine.

RMI Climber Holly

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I prefer Bawsman Toast Crunch…BTC in da Berry Please

Posted by: Donnie Rouse on 6/23/2022 at 1:45 pm

As far as cereal is concerned, there used to be a Cinnamon Toast Crunch / Golden Graham cereal that basically was Golden Grahams covered in the CTC dust(?) - sugar coating stuff. I can’t find it in stores any more but now you half to mix about 1/3 CTC to 2/3 Golden Grahams to get close to it. Cheers! Hope all of the feets are doing well!!

Posted by: Beth Heinonen on 6/23/2022 at 10:50 am


Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker Checking in after the Puja Ceremony

Hello! Mark Tucker checking in from Everest Base Camp. We had a wonderful ceremony today. The puja altar was just as beautiful as it gets. A wonderful day. Just a real, pretty ceremony. Everybody in attendance and we all had a good time. So we packed up a lot a loads. We have our whole Sherpa staff heading up the hill to carry all the necessary provisions to get a great Camp 1 established. And our three super guides, Dave, Billy and JJ, are going to go get their feet wet and check on the route and check on the camp and get things looking up-to-snuff for the rest of the western team. We will do some maintenance down here- a little bit of hiking, maybe a shower day. We have plenty to do to prep ourselves for the near future. We are going to be up real early and get these boys off to work on their commute to Camp 1 tomorrow. So all is well and like I said, we had a really nice day. We'll check in tomorrow. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in after the puja ceremony.

On The Map

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You guys got Four Loko’s in Basecamp?

ROADHOUSE

Posted by: Horatio C.B. on 4/11/2014 at 1:45 pm

Best of luck and prayers for the safety of all.  Be careful and have fun!! And don’t bet Tuck in cards!!

Posted by: Bill McGahan on 4/11/2014 at 10:42 am


Aconcagua Expedition: Jake Beren & Team Depart Mendoza

Hello everyone, Our team has arrived in Mendoza excited and ready to start our Aconcagua adventure! After finishing up our permits, grabbing the last minute supplies at the grocery store and gear shops, we are ready to head out of town. It is a beautiful day here in Mendoza and should make for a great drive to Penitentes where we will ready our gear for the mules and have one last night of Argentine cuisine before switching to the equally appealing mountain cuisine that will fuel our climb. Tomorrow we will leave civilization for a few weeks and start the climb. Wish us luck everyone and stay tuned as we work our way up this beautiful mountain. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens
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Hey Rich!  Checking in every other day & thinking of you always.  Have an amazing time & send me a postcard from the top!!  Stef

Posted by: Stef on 12/18/2011 at 11:09 pm

Dave G. Thinking of you constantly, have a good and safe climb. Love you.

Posted by: Connie on 12/16/2011 at 1:36 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Unable to Make Summit Attempt

The Five Day Climb June 18 - 22 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika enjoyed the sunrise at Ingraham Flats and Muir Peak. Weather this morning was calm and sunny with a few small wind gusts. The teams were unable to climb due to route conditions.  All climbers descended from Camp Muir just after 8 am en route to Paradise.  They will return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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@Dilip my understanding is it is like early spring conditions and the avy conditions are risky.

Posted by: Ryan on 6/23/2022 at 6:28 am

Definitely a bit upsetting to see so many teams not make summit

Posted by: John on 6/22/2022 at 6:24 pm


RMI Guide Zeb Blais Recaps the AMGA Rock Instructor Course

I was a bit worried on my first night at Smith Rock State Park when my Nalgene bottle froze solid over night. How were we possibly going to climb when it was a struggle just to keep the numbness from our fingers and toes? I was in Central Oregon for an American Mountain Guide Association Rock Instructor Course with four of my fellow RMI guides: Katie Bono, Levi Kepsel, Elias de Andres Martos, and Solveig Waterfall. All of us were on the ten day course with the aid of the RMI/First Ascent Guide Grant. This educational Grant was established to promote the continued professional development of RMI guides. We were looking forward to that instruction as well as some sunny rock climbing after a long season of guiding in Washington and Alaska but the weather would need to cooperate. I had heard that our instructors were hardened veterans of the rock realm, but without some really good tricks this weather seemed like too big a hurdle to overcome. I quickly thought about what my option were and did not come up with much except to kick myself for signing up for a rock course in November. As it turned out I needn’t have worried. On day one the weather was much warmer than the days of the previous week and the course kicked off without a hitch. Instructors Dale and Tom brought eons of experience to each day’s lessons. We tried to soak up every bit we could. The best analogy I could come up with for this was trying to take a drink of water from a fire hose. Every day added another layer of complexity in strategy and technical systems. And the weather kept cooperating! Day after day we received ominous weather forecasts but the weather never materialized and we climbed for eight days straight! When the snow finally did arrive we had moved indoors for the classroom portion of our course. Perfect timing. By the end we all agreed how far we had progressed. We were blown away by the mastery of rock that our instructors possess and thankful that a little rubbed off on us. We can’t wait to put our newfound skills to use guiding next summer in the North Cascades and elsewhere. We hope to see you there! RMI Guide Zeb Blais
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Mt. Baker: 100% Summit on the Easton Glacier

Friday, August 5, 2022 7:15 am PDT

Baker Easton Glacier100% summit! Great day of climbing with a Strong Team! 

Thursday, Augsut 4, 2022 6:31 pm PDT

We woke up this morning to some light rain that started sometime during the night. We remained in our tents most of the day taking advantage of the time to nap, rest, and enjoy some of our snacks. Before dinner we freshened up on some more skills in preparation for our climb. We are now cozied up in our sleeping bags and will try for the summit early in the morning. All is well and everyone is excited!

RMI Guides: Ben Luedtke and Augi Fleer

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Mt. Baker: Easton Glacier Team Reaches Summit

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the Four Day Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier July 15 - 18 team reached the summit at 3:15 pm today with 100% of their crew.  They enjoyed their time on the summit and will return to camp for their final night on the mountain.

Nice work team!

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Torres del Paine: King & Team Enjoy Nice First Day on the Trail

We left Puerto Natales this morning and enjoyed a scenic drive into Torres del Paine National Park. Along the way we saw some guanacos, a wild cousin of the llama & alpaca. Some condors, rhea(emu/ostrich like) and flamingos. The Paine Massif was clouded over but lots of new snow blanketed the lower slopes. Our hike was approximately nine miles through rolling hills and fields. This part of the park is still on private property and is a decommissioned cattle & sheep ranch. There was some nice creek crossings and the views of the Paine river, emerald green from the glacial till meandered in and out. Camp is an old ranch house that now has a kitchen and dining room. The Team did well and enjoyed the sunny and at times windy afternoon to enjoy being out of the boots and telling stories, reading and a few naps. The salmon and rice accompanied by some Chilean wine made for a nice end to the first day of our trek. Tomorrow we’ll head to Lago Dickson.

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Glad to see you doing well. Nice way to ease in through ranch house and good wine!
Snow dissipating here in Taos.

Posted by: Lana & Jim on 2/8/2022 at 6:17 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Enjoy Rest Day at High Camp

Friday, December 31, 2021 - 4:39 pm PT

Rest day at Vinson High Camp was restful.  And welcome. Many of the team felt the altitude of our new home after a night of tossing and turning.  But breakfast and another fine day, weather-wise got folks feeling a little better as the day went on.  We drank lots of water and snacked throughout the day in order to recoup from yesterday and prepare for tomorrow.  The forecast is certainly in our favor.  We could see clouds forming far down below us and a few wispy formations on nearby peaks but there wasn’t much evidence of wind anywhere in the range.  We’ll see how the gang fares with this second High Camp night -nobody had explicit plans for partying hard on this New Year’s Eve- but all things being good we’ll set out for the top tomorrow. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Excited to follow your journey. Happy New Year

Posted by: Lesia A Hatlestad on 1/1/2022 at 4:46 pm

Happy new year from Madhavi, Bodhi, and Adler. We sat under the stars of Joshua Tree and spoke of your climb, wondering how everything is going. So happy for you all!!

Posted by: Madhavi Menon on 1/1/2022 at 1:29 pm

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