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Vinson [Updated]: Team Arrives in Antarctica

It was a long day, although with perpetual daylight and a lot of excitement, we hardly noticed. Starting at 4:30 AM, we were off to Punta Arenas airport to board our Ilyushin flight to Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica. The Ilyushin is a remarkable plane, capable of carrying huge payload long distances in tough conditions. But, luxury is not its forte. To get an idea, imagine 3 railroad freight cars tied together and sent aloft. Luxury aside, the Ilyushin is an experience of Antarctica not to be missed, and is quite a plane. The pilots dropped us on the 3 mile, blue ice runway as if it were a strip of cotton, and we all excitedly stepped off onto the ice. The new Union Glacier camp - Antarctica headquarters of ALE - is as nice as it gets in every aspect. The ALE staff, who spend months here on the ice helping people fulfill their Antarctic dreams, do great work making sure every need is attended to. It all started with a gourmet lunch in the toasty dining tent, filling our bellies and putting smiles on our faces. We were all pretty comfy at Union Glacier, and not too opposed to the idea of staying a night there. But, then word came we would continue our journey, flying in an hour on to Vinson Basecamp (VBC). It is rare to NOT have a delay at some point in the transition from Punta Arenas to Basecamp. Delays of a week or more are actually quite common. So, we weren't going to complain at getting all the way to Vinson Basecamp in one day - especially a warm, sunny one like we had. Yet again we were off, in a two-part journey to VBC. A larger plane ferried us to the Nimmitz Glacier, where a Twin Otter took us the final 10 minutes to VBC. Kent Harvey and I went first in order to get good imagery of the Otter landing on the snow at VBC and the team's arrival. Unfortunately, after dropping us off, the Otter pilot fell and broke his wrist. Fortunately he'll be OK, but that incident added another 4 hours to the rest of the team arriving. But, arrive they finally did, and we got camp set up in the stunning cirque of VBC. Jagged peaks soar above us, clad in massive glaciers under a never-setting sun. Seth made a great dinner of Dinty Moore meals, and sent us all to bed. It was 12:10 AM when I finally turned in, sunglasses still on. Welcome to Antarctica.
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Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Carry to 14k

Wednesday, June 22, 2022 - 10:18 pm PT

Greetings from airy 11,000' Camp where the mountaineers flock like the salmon of Capistrano. Would you indulge us in settling this morning’s debate: is there a more superior cereal than Cinnamon Toast Crunch (CTC to those in the know). This writer thinks not and attributes todays stellar team performance to this fortifying breakfast enjoyed over laughter and the spirit of camaraderie that only six days of shared tents, suffering and toilet buckets can conjure.

Today’s adventure began with the famed Motorcycle Hill. We cruised harder than Harry and Floyd en route to Aspen. Squirrel Hill elevated us to new and exciting views as we caught our breath before crossing the polo field. No polo was played. And then of course the much anticipated windy corner, which was hot and windless. Overall a gain of over 3000 feet.

On the descent the heavens darkened and in recognition of the fervor and prowess of this team, released thunder that rolled and echoed off the surrounding ice. We have declared our team name: the thundercats. And like Thor wielding his hammer, the thundercats will brandish their ice axes on the upper mountain if the weather allows.

We have handed off the hula hoop to Hannah’s team at 14,000'. Kiira claims she cannot be beaten in a hula hoop contest. We beg to differ, and look forward to proving it in a couple short days when we return to 14k to claim our camp and our cache and our hula hoop title.

We are enjoying resting at camp tonight and have planned a spa day for tomorrow. The hot springs here are just divine.

RMI Climber Holly

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I prefer Bawsman Toast Crunch…BTC in da Berry Please

Posted by: Donnie Rouse on 6/23/2022 at 1:45 pm

As far as cereal is concerned, there used to be a Cinnamon Toast Crunch / Golden Graham cereal that basically was Golden Grahams covered in the CTC dust(?) - sugar coating stuff. I can’t find it in stores any more but now you half to mix about 1/3 CTC to 2/3 Golden Grahams to get close to it. Cheers! Hope all of the feets are doing well!!

Posted by: Beth Heinonen on 6/23/2022 at 10:50 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Unable to Make Summit Attempt

The Five Day Climb June 18 - 22 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika enjoyed the sunrise at Ingraham Flats and Muir Peak. Weather this morning was calm and sunny with a few small wind gusts. The teams were unable to climb due to route conditions.  All climbers descended from Camp Muir just after 8 am en route to Paradise.  They will return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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@Dilip my understanding is it is like early spring conditions and the avy conditions are risky.

Posted by: Ryan on 6/23/2022 at 6:28 am

Definitely a bit upsetting to see so many teams not make summit

Posted by: John on 6/22/2022 at 6:24 pm


RMI Guide Zeb Blais Recaps the AMGA Rock Instructor Course

I was a bit worried on my first night at Smith Rock State Park when my Nalgene bottle froze solid over night. How were we possibly going to climb when it was a struggle just to keep the numbness from our fingers and toes? I was in Central Oregon for an American Mountain Guide Association Rock Instructor Course with four of my fellow RMI guides: Katie Bono, Levi Kepsel, Elias de Andres Martos, and Solveig Waterfall. All of us were on the ten day course with the aid of the RMI/First Ascent Guide Grant. This educational Grant was established to promote the continued professional development of RMI guides. We were looking forward to that instruction as well as some sunny rock climbing after a long season of guiding in Washington and Alaska but the weather would need to cooperate. I had heard that our instructors were hardened veterans of the rock realm, but without some really good tricks this weather seemed like too big a hurdle to overcome. I quickly thought about what my option were and did not come up with much except to kick myself for signing up for a rock course in November. As it turned out I needn’t have worried. On day one the weather was much warmer than the days of the previous week and the course kicked off without a hitch. Instructors Dale and Tom brought eons of experience to each day’s lessons. We tried to soak up every bit we could. The best analogy I could come up with for this was trying to take a drink of water from a fire hose. Every day added another layer of complexity in strategy and technical systems. And the weather kept cooperating! Day after day we received ominous weather forecasts but the weather never materialized and we climbed for eight days straight! When the snow finally did arrive we had moved indoors for the classroom portion of our course. Perfect timing. By the end we all agreed how far we had progressed. We were blown away by the mastery of rock that our instructors possess and thankful that a little rubbed off on us. We can’t wait to put our newfound skills to use guiding next summer in the North Cascades and elsewhere. We hope to see you there! RMI Guide Zeb Blais
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Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimating Hike to Camp 2

Current report from RMI's Everest team: Windy and cool with the jet stream right over the region today. Wind usually means not much snow and that is the case today. RMI Guide Dave Hahn and crew went on a hike toward Camp 2 and are now back at Camp 1 for another night in their great First Ascent tents. Sherpa team is planning to carry more gear up to Camp 2 tomorrow. We are just stock piling Camp 2 for now, leaving gear in duffel bags and not putting tents up since it will still be about a week before the team stays overnight. Without a staff at Camp 2 to keep track of tents, there is no sense in subjecting them to tough weather conditions. The whole team is in great shape and the game plan is right on schedule. It is just a matter of time and next thing you know it, it will be summit push time. Big mountains take a while but they are sure worth it. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 1.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yo Mark -
Kim and John reporting in from the deck of the Tides Tavern in Gig Harbor! It’s been spectacular here the last couple of days - but we miss hanging out with you; well, maybe except for those two days in Gorek Shep.

Looks like you’ve settled in for the long haul - but hopefully you’re finding time for some golf!

Be safe, we’ll be following the team the next few weeks.  Namaste.

J&K

Posted by: John Gilman on 4/23/2012 at 9:43 pm

Conrad and Dave H. you guys rock. if i had never seen the video of you guys climbing the Pacific Ocean wall in Yosemite, i never would have began to climb. Climbing has changed my life and i owe it all to you guys (along with Jimmy) Keep charging on, and be safe.

Posted by: Samuel Short on 4/23/2012 at 12:29 pm


Torres del Paine: King & Team Enjoy Nice First Day on the Trail

We left Puerto Natales this morning and enjoyed a scenic drive into Torres del Paine National Park. Along the way we saw some guanacos, a wild cousin of the llama & alpaca. Some condors, rhea(emu/ostrich like) and flamingos. The Paine Massif was clouded over but lots of new snow blanketed the lower slopes. Our hike was approximately nine miles through rolling hills and fields. This part of the park is still on private property and is a decommissioned cattle & sheep ranch. There was some nice creek crossings and the views of the Paine river, emerald green from the glacial till meandered in and out. Camp is an old ranch house that now has a kitchen and dining room. The Team did well and enjoyed the sunny and at times windy afternoon to enjoy being out of the boots and telling stories, reading and a few naps. The salmon and rice accompanied by some Chilean wine made for a nice end to the first day of our trek. Tomorrow we’ll head to Lago Dickson.

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Glad to see you doing well. Nice way to ease in through ranch house and good wine!
Snow dissipating here in Taos.

Posted by: Lana & Jim on 2/8/2022 at 6:17 pm


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team arrive at Illimani Base Camp

When horses eat grass, they shred and tear everything, even the roots. Llamas on the other hand chew to a perfect putting green height. Illimani Base Camp is a massive rolling field, home to dozens and dozens of llamas. So after arriving at base camp this afternoon we found ourselves on one of the largest perfectly manicured fields in Bolivia. And therefore decided that a round of lawn games was required. The only thing we were missing was proper equipment. Nothing a little creativity couldn't solve... Two snow pickets, 18 tent stakes, a dozen moderately round rocks, plus our ice axes and Voilà!, a game of mountain croquette was the highlight of the afternoon. Styles varied, rocks broke in half, and every time a shot looked to go straight it would bounce sideways, but after almost two hours of play we had laughed and cheered our way to a winner. RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Kim & Co. sorry the weather and conditions didn’t exactly cooperate.  Still sounds like an AMAZING trip and I love the impromptu croquet…don’t be too concerned, but Lucky has found a suitor by the name of Hugo the Persian. 
Xoxoxo Lora

Posted by: Lora on 5/31/2017 at 6:48 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: Our Team Readies for Orizaba Summit in Tlachichuca

Hello everyone, this is JJ and Adam with the Mexico Volcanoes team. We had a great day of rest yesterday in Puebla, but we're back to business. We are currently sitting in Tlachichuca at Dr. Reyes' facility. We're busy organizing gear and getting ready for our 4-wheel drive adventure up to the hut on Orizaba. We had a good day getting in here, everyone's rested up and feeling good. The weather is absolutely beautiful and we believe that is going to continue. So knock on wood and cross your fingers, wish the team good luck, but hopefully by tomorrow, we will be on our way down from the summit of Orizaba. Take care everyone and we will touch base tomorrow hopefully from the summit. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in while the team prepares for Orizaba summit.

On The Map

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Mentally Preparing for the Summit

Waking up at 3:30 a.m. is never easy, especially at 17,500 ft. Somehow though, as the alarm went off yesterday morning, it was easy to rise. The wind was blowing gently, making the tents speak - I think they were saying "get outta here." As I began crunching through the icefall, the normal adrenaline kicked my pace up a notch, but also the excitement for what is ahead. Even though I have been through the icefall many times, this time it feels different. I am hopeful that when I come back down, I will not have to go back up again - this is our summit push. As I wind through the ice blocks and snow-covered crevasses, I have to admit I am filled with a new kind of trepidation. Mt. Everest is the tallest mountain on this earth, and even in normal conditions it would hand me a challenge. This year has been different though, as it has been filled with some extra challenges. I wanted to attempt to climb without supplemental oxygen, and that certainly added an unknown element to the trip. I have had many questions for myself since I made that decision, the biggest of course being: "Is it possible?" Early on in the trip I injured my ankle and that has really slowed me down, not just physically but mentally as well. I really feel like I need to be 100% to try to climb without O2, and as the trip has gone on, it has become clear that this isn't the case. At any rate, climbing Mt. Everest will still give me a great challenge and there is still so much work to be done. As I lie in my tent resting at Camp 2, I think about the climbers surrounding me. It is certainly humbling to be around some of the world's best (and strongest) mountaineers, as well as the cameramen who work twice as hard as any of the climbers. It is also pretty special to see Erica attempt to tackle a goal so large. At times I have to remind myself that she is really one of the only people here who isn't climbing for a profession, and I admire her strength and adaptability to work with this group. Today is a rest day, and my mind is already playing with the thoughts about summit day - how will the weather be, will I feel strong, how can I be an asset to the team... But summit day could still be days away, so for now I will quiet my mind, rest my body, and let the gratitude I feel for where I am right now wash over me.
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Denali Expedition: King & Team Reach Summit with All Team Members

Update: Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT

We woke to a clear and "warm" by 17K Camp standards morning and decided to get out in front of the inevitable hoard of climbers that would be attempting the summit today. With cold hands and toes warming up by the time we got to Denali Pass we kept breaking trail in spots and resting on what was the warmest and windless summit day I’ve been a part of. Some of the group had just a base layer and light weight gloves on at 19,500'. Everyone in the group, 9 climbers and 3 guides stood on top of the tallest peak in North America. We got some good views of the surrounding glacier and mountains. We even had 2 returning climbers who got turned around 2 years ago due to bad weather. Your loved ones will have all sorts of stories to share, know that they are safe in camp and taking care of themselves after an arduous 14-hour day. We will plan to descend to 14K Camp tomorrow and perhaps lower if the weather cooperates. While the objective we all set out 2 weeks ago has been accomplished, we still have a lot of terrain to navigate so we can get to the airstrip for flights on Sunday or Monday (weather permitting). Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Mike King

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 4:00 pm PT

We received word this afternoon from RMI Guide Mike King that his team was on the summit of Denali with 100% of their team members.  We wish them a safe descent and a hearty congratulations for all their hardwork!

Way to go team!

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Congratulations to all!  Way to go, Huw!

Posted by: Traci Gentry on 6/14/2021 at 11:05 am

Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Thanks for getting your team and our son safely back to sea level, we enjoyed the daily Blog and was excited to hear that all the team members reach the summit safely, Thanks again.
Mom and Dad Fortier

Posted by: Robert Fortier on 6/13/2021 at 6:22 pm

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