We got our first day of glacier climbing in, and finally used all of the gear that we've been carting through airports and carrying up trails. Our main goal was to move our tents up to our high camp at Lenz Rocks and get some acclimatization time in too. We accomplished both. We roped up and climbed 2.5 hours of warm, sunny, and sometimes in the clouds glacier. Just below Lenz Rocks, we found the wind, the telltales of which we'd been watching for awhile. It wasn't any match for us though, and another half hour of climbing got us to our cache site.
The trip down is direct and fast. What took four hours to get up took maybe an hour to get down as we opened our strides up and rolled out of the wind back into the furnace.
We're hoping conditions look good in the morning to make our move and prepare to head for the summit.
Best,
RMI Guides Pete and Mike, and team "why are the hut doors all made for people who are 5 feet tall?"
Great to hear the winds have calmed and the team is doing well. Awesome pictures! Sounds like Marc is still always looking to do an extra leg long after mostly everyone is spent. “Similar to Mt. Whitney”. Also, was wondering how it felt to have no issues with the hut doors for Marc since the 5 foot height was comfortably taller. :-). All the best to the team and my Buddy.
The skies were sunny with warm temperatures today at Everest Base Camp. Our climbers took a few short hikes around the lower glacier and then a bit of cards and board games to keep our minds busy. There is community gathering for a remembrance scheduled for tomorrow.
RMI Guide & Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker
Nicole Lobiondo: Hope you are okay during this tough time. My Dad and I took our Walk in Long Branch and drove by your house. All looks good! Mufasa must be a good guard cat if he is there! Thinking of you and the team and wishing you all positive thoughts for what lies ahead. XOXO, Nicole
Namaste from Ama Dablam Camp 2,
We climbed to the famous Yellow Tower, surmounting the most technical terrain that this route presents. We dragged our feet leaving Camp 1 as to get bathed by the sun a little bit. Then we crossed with ease the beautiful yet incredibly exposed crest with several hundreds of feet to drop on either side, contemplating how the now distant Base Camp became smaller and smaller down in the valley.
The winds are strong here, but the sun shines and it is comfortable inside the tents. Air feels thin, but our acclimatization process has been productive. We're going to hope for the best with the winds and we will put up a good fight, smart though, but we won't know until we get higher later tomorrow morning.
We sure hope to make a phone call from the summit!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
After a windy night with little sleep we awoke to a beautiful and sunny day. After a delicious breakfast we packed light packs to head up hill for an acclimatization hike. The wind lingered as we hiked and we remained bundled up even with the sun shining upon us. The air felt thin as we reached Aconcagua's Camp 1 at 5000m (16,000ft). After a quick lunch break the team was feeling good so we continued uphill for another hour to take full advantage of our day. Once we reached our high point we turned around and scooted downhill to a hearty meal of carne asado grilled by the porters. Tonight we hope to sleep like rocks.
We are so glad the winds calmed so that you and the team were able to hike yesterday! We are so proud of you and we love following the blog and updating everyone on your progress! Go Team Aconcagua!
Posted by: Rahim's Cintas Family on 1/18/2022 at 6:29 am
We are living your adventure vicariously except we are not having the pleasure of your company, the weather, great meals etc. Pace yourselves, which I am sure you are doing and stay safe. All well at our end.
Hugs to you all
Posted by: Norman and Phyllis on 1/18/2022 at 4:31 am
Monday, July 8, 2019 - 7:36 PM PT
We woke up yesterday to a fabulous day to fly back to Talkeetna. Our monumental effort to get back to basecamp and the airstrip paid off as we barely had time to make coffee in the morning before the Otter ski planes came to pick us up.
We returned to shocking 90 degree temperatures. Having been on an icy mountain for the better part of the month, our sweat glands definitely got a workout.
The crew exploded their packs and duffel bags, dried out and sorted gear, and then repacked for our travels home.
After a dinner to celebrate our amazing adventure together, everyone needed the sleep we were deprived of for the last few days.
Thank you RMI Siete for the great adventure and the amazing efforts and attitude that lead to a very successful expedition.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Today, for the second time, Dave, my Dad, and I climbed up to the first ladders of the Khumbu Ice fall. After a delicious breakfast and saying goodbye to some good friends we've made here at Base Camp who were heading home, we set out on our climb at around 9:30am and got up to the first ladders around 11:00am.
Two days ago our team did the same climb. It took my dad and I nearly two and a half hours to get to our high point, (about 18,000 feet) and when we did we were whipped. Standing next to the first ladder this time around I felt significantly stronger- I wasn't breathing nearly as hard and I actually got a chance to pick my head up and look at the amazing views of Base Camp and the valley below. Even climbing in an Ice fall the temperatures can get very hot, and this morning there wasn't a cloud in the sky. About half way through our hike, clouds finally began to gather about the tops of the peaks surrounding us and we were sheltered from the blazing sun which is much stronger at these altitudes.
Our team is encouraged by our performance today. We feel much stronger, skilled, and acclimatized then we did even two days ago, and with this can get through the rest of the ice fall much more quickly and safely in the days to come.
Lastly, our thoughts and prayers are with all of our friends and family back home. I think my Westminster Varsity Lacrosse teammates are playing a big game today, and I wish them all the best! As for how we're spending our spare time, we're meeting lots of new people, and becoming almost professional dart, horseshoes, sudoku, and card players.
Thanks for following our blog!
Sara McGahan
keep up the great work!Today my dad changed a light bulb which is the highest he will climb this year. I LOVE YOU and MISS YOU! Love, Sophie
Posted by: Sophie on 4/17/2011 at 7:51 am
SAYY!! i miss you so much, ive emailed you alot but you cant get your emails…. anyways, i dont want to leave a super long message but you rock so much and we are all thinking about you!! i LOVE YOU AND YOU ARE SUCH AN INSPIRATION and hurry home!!!!!!! (im gonna text you later)
The team awoke to warm bagels and crackling bacon. That was the warmest part of the day. It was a frigid one. We practiced cramponing while dashing in and out of our sleeping bags. Now is the trickiest part of any expedition. We sit, checking the weather repeatedly, waiting for our weather window to climb. Despite so much time in the tent, we are ready when the time comes.
Hope you are staying warm and keeping up morale while you wait for a clear safe opening for you to summit. Thinking of you! Sending Love and Strength!
Kelly
Posted by: Kelly on 2/3/2022 at 6:23 pm
Sounds like a you’re in good company while you await your window for summiting. Sending prayers the weather God’s turn in your favor. In the meantime, eat, rest, and relish in your magical winter wonderland adventure. We love you!
Love and God Bless,
ChrisBoLillianCarl
Posted by: ChrisBoLillianCarl on 2/2/2022 at 7:45 pm
Our Elbrus Northside team has returned to the U.S. and had a bit of time to work through the jet lag of jumping nine hours back in time on the return trip home. Our time in St. Petersburg was spectacular. The city has the feel of Old Europe, and is often compared to Venice because of the numerous canals and rivers that crisscross the city. Founded by Peter the Great, and the capitol of the Russian Empire for nearly 200 years, St. Petersburg is still considered the cultural capitol of Russia. We arrived mid afternoon with enough time to take a stroll around the city, before a delicious dinner at the Jerome, a perennial favorite restaurant year after year. The following day we took the city by storm, following our tour guide Olga as we walked as many of architectural and public space sites as we could fit in. From St. Issacs Cathedral with it's colorful mosaics, massive pillars, and scars on the facade left over from the 900+ day siege of St. Petersburg during WWII, to the luxurious Summer Gardens of the Romanovs, St. Petersburg displays the wealth, opulence, culture, and liveliness of the Tsar era. We spent the afternoon wandering through the massive winter palace of the Romanovs, now home to the Hermitage Museum. We spent the evening on a delightful canal tour by boat, and our last dinner in Russia. St. Petersburg averages only 60 days of sunlight each year, but our impression was far different - blue skies, comfortable temps, nice breezes on the canal, it was everything that summer should be and a nice refresh after our time on the mountain.
International climbing trips at their best are about far more than just the mountain or the climbing. The cultural and historical sites we saw, the insight into their history that we gained, and the people we met along the way are just as important. We had a number of interactions with teams of Russian climbers in camp, eager to understand how and why we had come so far to climb their humble mountain. The stories we read in the news, on either side of the ocean, can paint the other's countries as adversaries and opponents, but everyone we met was overwhelmingly friendly. As one climber in a hut one evening put it, "The people you meet in the mountains - they are good people." That was true of the climbers we met, and most certainly true of our team as well. Watching everyone work through the tough days, have their great days, and come together in difficult moments - such as setting up tents at 15,000' in a blustery 35 mph wind - is one of the joys of guiding and climbing, and it was such a pleasure to work with this team. Thanks so much to them, to our local outfitter, to Sasha, our local guide, translator, and fixer of all, and thanks to everyone who followed along. We’ll be back at it next year!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike Uchal
Hey, this is Seth checking in from the summit of Pico de Orizaba, tallest mountain in Mexico, fourth tallest in North America. Got the whole team with me. We've got a beautiful day. No wind up here, sunny skies, everybody's psyched. We're going to take a bunch of photos. Do some high fivin' then we'll check in once we peel back. Here's the shouts from everybody. [Team shouts!] They are very excited. It's just hard to breathe up here. We'll check in from high camp.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall calls from the Orizaba summit
The Four Day Climb September 19 - 22 led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Ben Liken were forced to turn back at 13,300' this morning due to high winds and deteriorating weather. The groups will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later this morning.
Great to hear the winds have calmed and the team is doing well. Awesome pictures! Sounds like Marc is still always looking to do an extra leg long after mostly everyone is spent. “Similar to Mt. Whitney”. Also, was wondering how it felt to have no issues with the hut doors for Marc since the 5 foot height was comfortably taller. :-). All the best to the team and my Buddy.
Posted by: Jimmy Hoadrea on 8/14/2019 at 10:04 am
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