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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Arrive at Vinson Base Camp

Pretty smooth day all around.  Considering that in other years it has taken weeks to get from Punta Arenas, to the Ice and then to Vinson, we are mighty lucky to have done it all in a day.  And for that, it wasn’t even a stressful day.  No angst about whether we were going to go or not… no waffling weather or closing window for flying.  It was just a day of green lights from the get go. 

We left the hotel at 6 AM and there wasn’t too much slack time out at the airport.  There were eighty of us, dressed in quite the variety of colorful cold weather gear and fancy boots.  We mingled and had mini reunions with old and less old acquaintances.  And then we trooped on out the gate to board our plane.   Things are different this year!  We used to ride in cargo and troop transports… this year we walked into a shiny Icelandic Air Boeing 757.  And it was nice and nobody was fighting over the mask mandates.  I have to say though, that a little bit of the cowboy feel to flying to Antarctica is now gone.  It was a lot like going from Seattle to Denver or Dallas.  Time to watch movies or sleep.  The pilot put the wheels down on Union Glacier’s ice runway at 12:45 PM just like he’d been doing it forever.   We bundled up and came down the stairs.  It was a remarkably fine day for November.  Our faces and fingers weren’t in danger of freezing as we milled about on the ice, snapping pictures.  Then we got on board a souped up van with great big wheels and were chauffeured over to Union Glacier Camp.  It was comfortable there and we were immediately warned not to get too comfortable.  The plan was for the three of us to be on the first airplane out to Vinson.  There was time for a tour of camp and a hot and hearty meal in the dining tent and then we loaded into a ski equipped Twin Otter for the hop out to Vinson.  After 45 minutes and another perfect landing - this time on the snow strip of the Branscomb Glacier at 7000 ft of elevation- we were walking around in our new and beautiful home at Vinson Base Camp.  This was around 4:15 PM.  The work began.  Lots of camp building and digging and sorting gear and getting settled.  We didn’t eat dinner until after 9 PM, which didn’t matter too much, the sun was quite strong making our dining tent comfortable.  Not all eighty passengers on the 757 were Vinson climbers, but there are six different guided groups out here as of today to kick off the first climbing season since the pandemic began.  Now it is 12:30 AM, still with good sun, but time for bed. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Rainier: Grom, Halliday & Four Day Teams Reach Summit

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb Teams July 10 - 13, 2021 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams reached the crater rim at 5:10 am.  Skies were clear and winds were calm as the teams enjoyed some time on the summit.   They began their descent from the crater rim at 6:30 am.  Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise. 

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Way to goooooo!!!!!

Posted by: MaryBeth & DZ on 7/13/2021 at 1:39 pm


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer Challenges Himself on Ski Guide Course

For twelve days in late March, 9 other guides and I convened in the Wasatch mountains of Utah for the AMGA Ski Guides Course. The course, first in the ski guide certification track of the American Mountain Guides Association, is aimed at teaching and honing the skills for ski guiding in technical but non-glaciated terrain (the majority of the skiing terrain in the lower 48!) Over the 12 days, we mixed evening classroom sessions of technical rope skills, coaching, soft skills, and video analysis for skiing, with days spent touring the incredible terrain surrounding Salt Lake City. The course culminated in a two night, three day yurt trip near Logan, UT. The three day yurt trip allowed us to have lengthier and more realistic “mock guiding” leads. Acting as guide for a group of guides who are playing the part of clients can be a contrived situation, and often presents challenges that are above the typical demand of a normal day guiding. The pressure is ratcheted up, as one can imagine setting a steep kick turn in an uphill track, while four other guides and two instructors all judge that kick turn and comment. Besides the pressure of setting tracks and style, there was the pressure to find the group good snow on the descent, and more often than not, the classic problem of people seeing their own lines that were “better” and desperately wanting to step out of their roles. The challenges were often humorous, though, and the pressure pushed everybody to step up to the plate in a type of guiding that was unfamiliar to most of us. Almost everyone in the course came from a guiding background, however, most often this was alpine guiding, the kind of climbing we do here on Rainier, the North Cascades, and Mt. McKinley. Many of the skills from the alpine realm are readily transferable to ski guiding; client care, many of the technical rope systems and short roping, and uphill guiding are all very similar. But ski guiding presents its own challenge: Down guiding. Trying to guide a group of skiers safely down a line can be a totally different ball game. Balancing the safety issues of being out ahead first to assess snow pack, safe zones, and boundaries, with the desire for client satisfaction, first tracks, good snow, and an uninterrupted run can be tricky. In addition, all of this happens at much higher speed, and things can change quickly. Guiding techniques are always changing and improving as people dream up new systems or improve on old ones, and I always take away a lot of new tricks. This course was no exception. Add to that new snow almost every day (several feet fell on the Wasatch while we were there) and a great group of fellow students, the ski guide course was a great experience and chance to get a lot of feedback from other guides! A big thanks to the First Ascent/Eddie Bauer and RMI guide grant for helping me to get there! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
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Everest Basecamp Trek and Island Peak Climb: Gorak Shep

The group was up early this morning, despite encountering the coldest temperatures of the trip thus far - our water bottles lightly icing up even in the teahouse. However, we quickly shook off the cold within a few minutes of starting off, warming up as we walked out of Lobuche. An hour's walk brought us to the edge of the Khangri Glacier, a tributary flowing into the main Khumbu Glacier just to our side. We climbed up the moraine of the Khangri and began the weaving traverse over its rock strewn surface, climbing up and down over the uneven terrain. Part way through we reached a high point and we're treated to fantastic views further up the valley, even catching glimpses of the tents at Everest BC. By late morning we reached our teahouse at Gorak Shep, the last cluster of buildings before BC. We paused for a cup of tea and after refilling our bottles we set out to climb Kala Patar, a rocky outcropping that sits across the valley from Everest. The team climbed very strongly, the benefits of our acclimatization over the past ten days clearly visible, and within a couple of hours we reached Kala Patar's prayer flag strewn summit. At 18,500' Kala Patar has phenomenal views looking down over Everest BC and the Khumbu Icefall as well as to its summit, the Hillary Step, South Summit, South Col, and part of the Lhotse Face. In addition to Everest, we could see over the Lho La Pass to Changatse in Tibet as well as south down the valley, picking out the peaks of Tamserku, Katenga, and Ama Dablam which we walked past earlier. Despite the clear skies and amazing views the winds were blowing strongly and we were forced to raise our voices to be heard over the fluttering prayer flags. The temperature was quite cold with the wind and before too long we set off back down the trail, returning to Gorak Shep where a late lunch of soup and tea helped rewarm us. We've spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing in Gorak Shep. We had a great day and are thrilled to have had such great weather and views from Kala Patar. Tomorrow we cover the final stretch to Everest Base Camp where we will spend a couple of nights sleeping on the ice in RMI's Everest Expedition camp. We will check in tomorrow from BC. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Hi Tim!  I am missing you so much, but in a good way!  LOVING the dispatches and pictures!  I hope you are keeping a good journal so you can tell us EVERYTHING!  I can’t wait!  Everything is good at home.  I have had the crud, but am feeling MUCH better today!  Piss and vinegar coming back. HA!  Bridger misses your warm lap at night, and so do I!  Have done 2 commission checks and didn’t screw up!  Yay me!  I should be helping you pay company bills. Once in a while! :)  I adore you and look forward to the 16th!  But, I want this good experience to last for you.  You are living your dreams!  I couldn’t be more proud of you!

Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/4/2011 at 12:14 pm

I am fine since tooth pulled—Dad left his message kinda hanging.  Yesterday, Sat., 4/2/11 AM the sun was shining, bright blue skies so I jumped in my hot tub clothes, went outside and promptly turned around and headed back in the house!!  It was extremely cold and windy—What a wimp!  How did I ever birth a child who actually LIVES for cold and windy!!!! Ha—Cudos to you, Timmer.  Stay safe all of you.  I depend on them to take care of my son—Yeah, I know, nuff Mom talk.  Love ya, Mom

Posted by: Mom Mac on 4/3/2011 at 12:22 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Rest Day at Low Camp

Today was a fine and calm, sunny day from start to finish.  Just perfect for resting.  We took it easy and tried to catch up on napping and hydration.  This camp is 9300 feet above sea level and so it was a good acclimatization day as well.  The sun hit camp at about 10:40 AM and melted the frost collecting overhead in the tents… the perfect alarm clock.  We ate a leisurely breakfast in our small dining tent and then retreated to the warmth of the tents for the day.  Dinner was in strong sunshine at 8:30 PM.  We intend to put in a good hard day tomorrow, carrying loads up the fixed ropes. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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I’ve really enjoyed and appreciated your updates. May you have safety and success

Posted by: Don Huntington on 11/30/2021 at 3:51 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Reach Low Camp

Wednesday, December 29, 2021 - 7:19 pm PT

We seem to be into a stretch of very fine weather.  Today was nothing but sunny, calm and beautiful.  Our first morning on Vinson was pleasant, but quite full with getting everybody up to speed on glacier travel and packing and prepping for moving up.  Even so, we took a midday break for a sit-down hot lunch of vegetable soup.  We got walking at 1:40 PM.  Four rope teams traveling in formation up the Branscomb Glacier.  Recent snows made the footing a little more insecure for the first few hours out of camp, but conditions improved as we got a little higher.  There was less new snow and easier to walk on packed trail by the time we hit the big turn in the glacier below Vinson’s west face.  We came into 9,200 ft “Low Camp” just after seven in the evening.  A fine time to arrive as the sun hits from a great angle and intensity at low camp during the evening hours.  We built tents and moved in to giant walls of snow bricks constructed against big winds by previous inhabitants.  Our evening was windless.  We ate dinner and talked over possibilities for tomorrow.  Perhaps we’ll move higher in the morning, perhaps we’ll spend the day training around low camp.  It all depends on how folks feel in the morning.  It is wonderful to be up in this wild setting, looking straight up at Vinson and at the jagged peaks just to the North. 

Although it is after midnight now, the sun is still strong on the tents, making them almost warm and comfortable.  The sun won’t go behind the mountain until about 3 AM, at which point things will feel a bit colder until it reappears around 10:15 AM. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team arrive at Illimani Base Camp

When horses eat grass, they shred and tear everything, even the roots. Llamas on the other hand chew to a perfect putting green height. Illimani Base Camp is a massive rolling field, home to dozens and dozens of llamas. So after arriving at base camp this afternoon we found ourselves on one of the largest perfectly manicured fields in Bolivia. And therefore decided that a round of lawn games was required. The only thing we were missing was proper equipment. Nothing a little creativity couldn't solve... Two snow pickets, 18 tent stakes, a dozen moderately round rocks, plus our ice axes and Voilà!, a game of mountain croquette was the highlight of the afternoon. Styles varied, rocks broke in half, and every time a shot looked to go straight it would bounce sideways, but after almost two hours of play we had laughed and cheered our way to a winner. RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
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Kim & Co. sorry the weather and conditions didn’t exactly cooperate.  Still sounds like an AMAZING trip and I love the impromptu croquet…don’t be too concerned, but Lucky has found a suitor by the name of Hugo the Persian. 
Xoxoxo Lora

Posted by: Lora on 5/31/2017 at 6:48 pm


Kilimanjaro: Team Stands atop the Highest Volcano in Africa

We reached Mweka Camp at 2:50 PM to finish our 16-hour climbing day. 

The “day” began last night at 11 PM when we woke for our summit bid.  After a little breakfast, at 12:05 AM we hit the trail behind Naiman - our lead guide. 

Our team made rapid progress, passing several other teams on the dirt and rock switchbacks.  It was a fairly cold night, and that was before the winds started up.  By our second rest break, a few hours into the climb we were adding clothing layers and putting on bigger gloves.  By our fourth break, most of the team had all available clothing on.  We hit the crater rim at Stella Point by 5:40 AM and took just a brief pause there for food and water before pushing on toward Uhuru - Kilimanjaro’s summit.  The light of day came slowly and beautifully on as we walked on the rim at 19,000 ft.  Sunrise was most welcome at 6:30 but by then our attention was on the phenomenal shadow cast by Kilimanjaro in the skies to the west… exactly over the summit of 15,000 ft Mt Meru.  

We hit Uhuru at 6:40 AM and shed a few tears, shook hands, hugged, and snapped photos.  It was an amazingly beautiful time of day.  But it was also bitterly cold and windy, so we got out of there at 6:55 and headed back to Stella without delay.  Winds were really picking up at Stella then and putting a lot of dirt and dust in the air, so we cruised right on over the edge and started dropping altitude.  The descent was a combination of careful steps and full-on boot skiing through steep gravel and pumice. 

We were back to camp at a respectable hour 9:40 AM, rubbing our eyes and wiping dirt and dust off our faces.  Our fabulous staff treated the team to a full brunch/lunch of 15,000 ft pizza and coffee, after which we left camp bound for Mweka - 5000 ft lower.  The trail down is direct and rough, we certainly were cautious and ready to be done for much of it. 

Now it is a relief to be camped in the forest for one more night.  The air has moisture again… and oxygen in abundance. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & team

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Congratulations! Enjoy the safari!

Posted by: Jeff Tracy on 8/8/2022 at 12:43 pm

Congrats to all! I am in awe…

Posted by: Mnica on 8/7/2022 at 2:39 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Spends the Day in Kislovodsk

Hi, Since we did not use one of our weather days while on the mountain, we had the whole day today in Kislovodsk. After our long push to get off the mountain yesterday, and the birthday celebration dinner that followed, most of us were happy to have a rest day of sorts. We had to deal with drying and sorting gear one last time so it is ready for our flight tomorrow, and then it was time to get re-connected with the rest of the world since we had been out of touch for the last nine days. The weather here was beautiful today in town, sunny skies and about 90 degrees. We decided to head down to the pedestrian mall in the center of town to do some shopping, find an ice cream store and stroll through the city park. Being the height of the summer season, there were many people just out enjoying the day. With a few souvenir purchases under our belt, we walked around admiring the different buildings, statues, fountains, and shops. With our attention turning to dinner, we found a great restaurant right in the middle of the square. We luckily had a waiter who could help us decipher the menu and helped us order an incredible meal. He thought we were crazy with how much food we ordered, but we ate it all. There were three different meat dishes served in a huge bowl with charcoals underneath to keep it warm, fresh salads, and perfectly grilled vegetables. It was the hands-down winner for our best meal in Russia. Tomorrow we head to the airport to fly north to St. Petersburg, the last leg of this journey. We'll check in once we get there. All the best, RMI Guides Jeff Martin, Pete Van Deventer, and the Elbrus Northside Team
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Congrats all! Very proud of you brother, Trev… has been exciting to follow. Lylab, Viv

Posted by: Viv on 8/14/2014 at 6:02 pm


Mt. Rainier:  Teams on Top via Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver Routes

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Garrett Stevens and Win Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported cool temperatures, winds 20 mph and clear skies. They began their descent from the summit at 7 am en route to Camp Muir. They will take a short break there before continuing down to Paradise. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens also made their summit push today. Geoff and team were also beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Way to go Pete Lynn!  Want to hear all about it.  Tracked all the way up.

Posted by: Bill Adkins on 8/1/2014 at 6:43 pm

Hi Arthur and Owen with team Emmons. Have been following you all the way to the summit (well at least since 6.00am!). That was so awesome to watch. Congrats to the whole team and a special thanks to whoever packed the GPS tracker! Can’t wait to hear all about it. Love M & D

Posted by: Shirley Eigenbrot on 7/31/2014 at 6:05 pm

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