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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Summits!

August 13, 2019

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 18,510'

We had a PERFECT summit day today. Last night's winds had calmed by morning and we got started just before 8 am. We climbed along Lenz Rocks before banking to the west and beginning the traverse across a large bowl towards the saddle between the East and West summits. The sky was brilliant blue all day without a cloud in the sky. We intersected the route to the West summit and all of the Southside climbers midway up the final pitch. The timing couldn't have been better as all of them were already descending and we had the summit entirely to ourselves, something of a rarity on Elbrus. The views over the surrounding Caucasus and the verdant green hills back towards Kislovodsk were stunning, and we spent about 30 minutes on top taking them in. Marc and Mike decided to take an extra jaunt to tag the East summit as well, while the rest of the team descended back to our camp at Lenz. We took a brief break, then packed our camp to descend further to the relative comforts of the Moraine Camp at 12,000'. With ramen to recharge us, we're headed to bed after a long, full day. We'll continue to base camp in the morning, more than likely spend the night there, then return to Kislovodsk the following day. But now, to bed. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations!!! How awesome! Safe travels back everyone!

Posted by: Jimmy Hoadrea on 8/14/2019 at 10:11 am

Congratulations Dan and the entire team!

Posted by: Tom Maddalena on 8/14/2019 at 7:16 am

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Assemble in Punta Arenas

November 25, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Happy Thanksgiving from Patagonia! The RMI Vinson team has assembled, there are three of us. Under normal circumstances, it is a little bit of a big deal to successfully negotiate and navigate through airlines and airports to reach Punta Arenas, Chile complete with climbing equipment, ready to take on Antarctica. In this pandemic year, it is a really big deal to accomplish such a feat. We’ve been testing constantly and jumping through bureaucratic hoops in order to travel safely internationally. And now we are almost there. Today, our gear will be collected and weighed and packed on the jet. We hope to fly to the Ice tomorrow, but we will hear more later as to current weather and what is possible. These last few days, Rajat and Mark and I have been walking the streets of Punta Arenas (in masks), flashing our “mobility passes” to get into restaurants, and tracking down last bits of essential gear. We’ve had some good walk and talk sessions along the shores of Magellan’s Straight, gazing out at Tierra Del Fuego and a million wind-driven waves. We hope that today is the end of our hotel based “testing period” to ensure nobody brings the virus to Antarctica.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mountaineering Training | 3 Training Principles From RMI Guide Eric Frank

October 14, 2013

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

Three Core Training Principles By RMI Guide Eric Frank Designing a training program to prepare for mountaineering is one of the most important decisions aspiring climbers face. Success or failure is often determined by the type and quality of the training done months before the crampon straps are tightened. By planning particular elements of the training program in order, fitness can be maximized while the chance of burning out is minimized. Each level of activity leads to the next. It is crucial to start training at least six months in advance of the climb to have enough time to work through a full cycle. While the details will vary between climbers, here are a few core principles to consider: • First, commit one or two Saturdays each month for long training sessions. This can be difficult in our busy, modern world, but it is important to find the time to go on a five to six hour hike or bike ride. Days in the mountains are rarely less then eight hours, and being accustomed to consistent low-grade output is important. This serves to build base fitness. • Next, introduce mountaineering specific activities by focusing on the core and legs. Carrying a backpack uphill for hours can be extremely taxing on these muscle groups. Running, core workout and good ol’ hiking with a pack will build them up to the appropriate level. Remember to carry a pack that is similar to the pack weight on the climb. Filling the pack with water is a nice trick. Carry the weight uphill during training, then dump it out before heading downhill to save the knees. • Finally, add high intensity, full body workouts to the exercise program. On most routes in the mountains, there are places where increased output is required. Whether it is scrambling up a rock step on the Disappointment Cleaver on Mt. Rainier, ascending a fixed line on the West Buttress of Denali, or just shoveling snow to make a tent platform, physical strength is crucial. These activities will round out the strength in your shoulders and lower back. A good introductory workout involves body weight calisthenics in a rotation – pushups, crunches, squats, dips, pull-ups and jump rope. Try to do three full cycles with a consistent number of repetitions. The idea is maintain an elevated heart rate and stress different muscle groups in succession. The best part is that is doesn’t require any specialized equipment or facilities. Finally remember that the best training imitates the route to be climbed. Consider the specific mountain and route to be attempted, research it’s exact difficulties, then tailor a plan which will lead to success. _____ Eric Frank is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. He has climbed and guided all over the world, including the Alaska Range and the Himalaya; read about his recent to trip to Shishapangma on the Eddie Bauer Blog. Eric will be leading an RMI Expedition on Mt. McKinley's Upper West Rib next spring.

Aconcagua Expedition: Jake Beren & Team Depart Mendoza

December 14, 2011

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Hello everyone, Our team has arrived in Mendoza excited and ready to start our Aconcagua adventure! After finishing up our permits, grabbing the last minute supplies at the grocery store and gear shops, we are ready to head out of town. It is a beautiful day here in Mendoza and should make for a great drive to Penitentes where we will ready our gear for the mules and have one last night of Argentine cuisine before switching to the equally appealing mountain cuisine that will fuel our climb. Tomorrow we will leave civilization for a few weeks and start the climb. Wish us luck everyone and stay tuned as we work our way up this beautiful mountain. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Rich! Checking in every other day & thinking of you always. Have an amazing time & send me a postcard from the top!! Stef

Posted by: Stef on 12/18/2011 at 11:09 pm

Dave G. Thinking of you constantly, have a good and safe climb. Love you.

Posted by: Connie on 12/16/2011 at 1:36 pm

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Not Yet!

July 2, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Tuesday, July 2, 2019 - 7:49 PM PT We thought today would be our day... Until it wasn't. We woke up to blowing snow and zero visibility. It made our call easy once again. We thought that it would clear up later in the morning and give us a late try, but it has not cleared up all day. Oh well, we will wait! The team is doing well with all of the waiting at high camp, in spite of being in tents most of the day. The weather has not been terrible at high camp, just not good enough to climb. So, more waiting, sport eating, and good weather finger crossing for us! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete

On The Map

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Press button…get summit!

Posted by: Joe Horiskey on 7/3/2019 at 3:28 pm

Don’t let the weather get you down! If you get cold, just think about me and I’m sure that will heat things up ;)!

- XOXO <3

Posted by: Mackinzie on 7/3/2019 at 12:42 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 24th Summit!

June 24, 2015

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Tyler Jones, Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Tyler Jones reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The Teams reported a beautiful day with light winds and great views. The teams have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. RMI Guide Walter Hailes and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier in the early morning via the Emmons Route. The team returned to Camp Schurman and will spend the remainder of their time on perfecting their mountaineering skills. They will return to Rainier Basecamp on Thursday afternoon. Congratulations to Today's teams!

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I was so lucky to have great guides and awesome teammates, as well as blessed by good weather on Mount Rainier. Biggest peak of my life so far, and thanks to Tyler, Jess and Josh!

Posted by: Phil Knight on 7/2/2015 at 8:15 am

Wow, so impressed, so relieved, so proud of you Chris, my amazing Daughter in Law. You keep on meeting challenges with determination, grace and grit! Love you very much, Mama Carol

Posted by: Carol Waring on 6/25/2015 at 9:11 am

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Mt. Rainier: Grom, Halliday & Four Day Teams Reach Summit

July 13, 2021

Posted by: Casey Grom, Alex Halliday, Jack Delaney, Augi Fleer, Jackson Breen, Josh Hankin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb Teams July 10 - 13, 2021 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the crater rim at 5:10 am. Skies were clear and winds were calm as the teams enjoyed some time on the summit. They began their descent from the crater rim at 6:30 am. Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Team Summits!

June 23, 2023

Posted by: Joe Hoch, Emma Lyddan, Ben Thorneycroft, Mike Walter, Jess Wedel, Bailey Servais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Jess Wedel reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7 am this morning. Jess reported clear crisp skies, and a great route. The team will enjoy time on the summit snapping photos and taking in the breathtaking views before starting their descent.

Congratulations Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the team and especially Ryan Hofer!! Proud of you!!

Posted by: Mike on 6/23/2023 at 9:04 am

ANNALISA! I am SO proud of you. This is such a huge goal that you accomplished. I can’t wait to hear all about it and see the photos. On to the next summit!

Posted by: Erika on 6/23/2023 at 8:23 am

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Kilimanjaro: Team Enjoys Beautiful Lake Manyara

September 6, 2022

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Today was our first day of safari and we headed west to visit the beautiful Lake Manyara. The lake is a brief stopping ground for many migratory animals and home to more than 350 different birds. Everyone enjoyed the day cruising around in our safari vehicles with cold beverages in hand while seeing a few animals up close.

We didn’t see a ton of animals today, but we did get up close to a few elephants, baboons, and a number impalas. Also managed to see a couple of zebras and warthogs off in the distance.

It was a nice introduction to the incredible diversity of wildlife that Africa has and the team is looking forward to seeing more tomorrow.

We wrapped up the evening with a wonderful meal at the Plantation Lodge.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Safari Crew

Kahiltna Seminar: Halliday & Team Climb Radio Tower

May 25, 2022

Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 7,300'

Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 6:36 pm PT

On Monday, we awoke to scattered clouds and cooler temps around Base Camp. As the sun rose above the clouds we left camp to refresh some of our climbing skills. After taking naps during the heat of the day we learned about knots for climbing and prepared for our attempt on Radio Tower.

The mountains are calm today. The clouds are fickle and we are now sitting back in camp surrounded by a fog that has moved up the Kahiltna Glacier. We reached the top of Radio Tower today, the small prominence that sits above camp. We were met with impressive views of the north side of Mt. Hunter and the Moonflower Buttress.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Tim! It’s your grandma wishing you safe and happy travels! Love you.

Posted by: Susan Cote on 5/28/2022 at 10:31 am

Great to hear the update. Hopefully the weather will be perfect.

Posted by: Mary & Mike Macklin on 5/25/2022 at 5:42 pm

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