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Denali Expedition: Champion Still at Basecamp Waiting to Fly

June 3, 2023

Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

June 3, 2023 10:48 am PDT

We woke up to snow,

Was hoping to be in town,

More freeze dried it is.

June 2, 2023 10:01 pm PDT

The planes come and go,

but we are still here waiting,

tomorrow we fly?

RMI Guides Nikki, Leif, Lauren & Team

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Jonathan! Another chapter written, capturing a timeless beauty of nature filled with adventure. Looking forward to seeing your photos and hearing your stories! Safe travels home, we love you! Mom & Christina

Posted by: Joy Deffenbaugh on 6/4/2023 at 4:50 pm

Matt, what a spectacular adventure! Peaks and valleys, something you have always been able to navigate. Love you!

Posted by: Kathleen George on 6/4/2023 at 5:51 am

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Assemble in Punta Arenas

November 25, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Happy Thanksgiving from Patagonia! The RMI Vinson team has assembled, there are three of us. Under normal circumstances, it is a little bit of a big deal to successfully negotiate and navigate through airlines and airports to reach Punta Arenas, Chile complete with climbing equipment, ready to take on Antarctica. In this pandemic year, it is a really big deal to accomplish such a feat. We’ve been testing constantly and jumping through bureaucratic hoops in order to travel safely internationally. And now we are almost there. Today, our gear will be collected and weighed and packed on the jet. We hope to fly to the Ice tomorrow, but we will hear more later as to current weather and what is possible. These last few days, Rajat and Mark and I have been walking the streets of Punta Arenas (in masks), flashing our “mobility passes” to get into restaurants, and tracking down last bits of essential gear. We’ve had some good walk and talk sessions along the shores of Magellan’s Straight, gazing out at Tierra Del Fuego and a million wind-driven waves. We hope that today is the end of our hotel based “testing period” to ensure nobody brings the virus to Antarctica.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team’s Adventure Complete

July 8, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Monday, July 8, 2019 - 7:36 PM PT We woke up yesterday to a fabulous day to fly back to Talkeetna. Our monumental effort to get back to basecamp and the airstrip paid off as we barely had time to make coffee in the morning before the Otter ski planes came to pick us up. We returned to shocking 90 degree temperatures. Having been on an icy mountain for the better part of the month, our sweat glands definitely got a workout. The crew exploded their packs and duffel bags, dried out and sorted gear, and then repacked for our travels home. After a dinner to celebrate our amazing adventure together, everyone needed the sleep we were deprived of for the last few days. Thank you RMI Siete for the great adventure and the amazing efforts and attitude that lead to a very successful expedition. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Not Yet!

July 2, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Tuesday, July 2, 2019 - 7:49 PM PT We thought today would be our day... Until it wasn't. We woke up to blowing snow and zero visibility. It made our call easy once again. We thought that it would clear up later in the morning and give us a late try, but it has not cleared up all day. Oh well, we will wait! The team is doing well with all of the waiting at high camp, in spite of being in tents most of the day. The weather has not been terrible at high camp, just not good enough to climb. So, more waiting, sport eating, and good weather finger crossing for us! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete

On The Map

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Press button…get summit!

Posted by: Joe Horiskey on 7/3/2019 at 3:28 pm

Don’t let the weather get you down! If you get cold, just think about me and I’m sure that will heat things up ;)!

- XOXO <3

Posted by: Mackinzie on 7/3/2019 at 12:42 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 24th Summit!

June 24, 2015

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Tyler Jones, Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Tyler Jones reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The Teams reported a beautiful day with light winds and great views. The teams have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. RMI Guide Walter Hailes and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier in the early morning via the Emmons Route. The team returned to Camp Schurman and will spend the remainder of their time on perfecting their mountaineering skills. They will return to Rainier Basecamp on Thursday afternoon. Congratulations to Today's teams!

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I was so lucky to have great guides and awesome teammates, as well as blessed by good weather on Mount Rainier. Biggest peak of my life so far, and thanks to Tyler, Jess and Josh!

Posted by: Phil Knight on 7/2/2015 at 8:15 am

Wow, so impressed, so relieved, so proud of you Chris, my amazing Daughter in Law. You keep on meeting challenges with determination, grace and grit! Love you very much, Mama Carol

Posted by: Carol Waring on 6/25/2015 at 9:11 am

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Mountaineering Training | 3 Training Principles From RMI Guide Eric Frank

October 14, 2013

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

Three Core Training Principles By RMI Guide Eric Frank Designing a training program to prepare for mountaineering is one of the most important decisions aspiring climbers face. Success or failure is often determined by the type and quality of the training done months before the crampon straps are tightened. By planning particular elements of the training program in order, fitness can be maximized while the chance of burning out is minimized. Each level of activity leads to the next. It is crucial to start training at least six months in advance of the climb to have enough time to work through a full cycle. While the details will vary between climbers, here are a few core principles to consider: • First, commit one or two Saturdays each month for long training sessions. This can be difficult in our busy, modern world, but it is important to find the time to go on a five to six hour hike or bike ride. Days in the mountains are rarely less then eight hours, and being accustomed to consistent low-grade output is important. This serves to build base fitness. • Next, introduce mountaineering specific activities by focusing on the core and legs. Carrying a backpack uphill for hours can be extremely taxing on these muscle groups. Running, core workout and good ol’ hiking with a pack will build them up to the appropriate level. Remember to carry a pack that is similar to the pack weight on the climb. Filling the pack with water is a nice trick. Carry the weight uphill during training, then dump it out before heading downhill to save the knees. • Finally, add high intensity, full body workouts to the exercise program. On most routes in the mountains, there are places where increased output is required. Whether it is scrambling up a rock step on the Disappointment Cleaver on Mt. Rainier, ascending a fixed line on the West Buttress of Denali, or just shoveling snow to make a tent platform, physical strength is crucial. These activities will round out the strength in your shoulders and lower back. A good introductory workout involves body weight calisthenics in a rotation – pushups, crunches, squats, dips, pull-ups and jump rope. Try to do three full cycles with a consistent number of repetitions. The idea is maintain an elevated heart rate and stress different muscle groups in succession. The best part is that is doesn’t require any specialized equipment or facilities. Finally remember that the best training imitates the route to be climbed. Consider the specific mountain and route to be attempted, research it’s exact difficulties, then tailor a plan which will lead to success. _____ Eric Frank is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. He has climbed and guided all over the world, including the Alaska Range and the Himalaya; read about his recent to trip to Shishapangma on the Eddie Bauer Blog. Eric will be leading an RMI Expedition on Mt. McKinley's Upper West Rib next spring.

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Mt. Rainier: Whittaker, McDowell and ALA Teams Summit!

July 25, 2019

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Josh McDowell

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Josh McDowell lead their teams of American Lung Association Climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win reported light winds and a fabulous day on the mountain. Congratulations to today's climbers for their efforts in fundraising and supporting the ALA and for all their hardwork training for this climb! A special congratulations to Josh McDowell, today's summit is his 100th summit of Mt. Rainier!

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Congratulations Climb For Clean Air (CFCA) Climb Group #3 for the awesome accomplishment. We hare so proud of you all and happy we got the opportunity to train with you.

Posted by: Tideworks Mountaineers on 7/26/2019 at 10:07 am

Congrats to all! Great work, team!

Posted by: Daniel on 7/25/2019 at 5:33 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Climbs to 11,200’

August 17, 2023

Posted by: Steve Gately, Joe Hoch, Jackson Breen, Joey Manship, Raymond Holt, Ben Thorneycroft

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,200'

Today's RMI Four Day Climb with guides Steve Gately and Jackson Breen climbed to Ingraham Flats to enjoy the sunrise. The high heat, and current route conditions prevented the team from safely going any further onto the upper mountain. The team enjoyed the morning climb and are now descending to Paradise.

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Acclimatize on Rucu Pichincha

December 2, 2021

Posted by: Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 9,350'

Today we got second chair on the gondola and enjoyed a quiet morning on Rucu Pichincha. For many this was the second highest altitude they had reached and a good hike to really get the acclimatization going. Contrary to my previous trips and further proving the unreliability of weather forecasting in the tropics, we did not get rained on and it really did not threaten to rain on us at any point today. Following the hike we enjoyed a team dinner at a favorite local Lebanese restaurant and tomorrow we are headed north towards Cayambe.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Back to Namche Bazaar

April 26, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 11,300'

Today was a big walking day, up and down the hills of the Khumbu Valley from Pheriche to Namche. Right out of Pheriche, where we started hiking at 8 AM, we crossed the river, climbed a hill and turned into the inhabited portions of the Khumbu. We turned our backs on rocks and ice and walked down into rhododendrons, pine trees and villages. JJ led the way as we rolled through Shomare, Pangboche, Deboche, Thyangboche, and Phunky Tonga. We got hot enough to sweat a bit, which was a novelty, we passed a million trekkers and heard about a million helicopter laps as the B2's and B3's flew over us on their way back and forth to Everest Base. Finally, at midday, we got working our way up the giant dusty hill that would put us on level with Namche. It took us about six hours to reach Namche -still quite familiar to us since we spent three days acclimating in town on the way in. This time... no acclimatization needed... so fine to be below 12,000 ft for the first time in close to a month. The team enjoyed a fine evening at comfortable Camp De Base. One more big day of hiking to go before Lukla International. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Nicole Lobiondo: Safe travels from Lukla to you all! Nicole H.

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/28/2014 at 6:27 am

Hey Spencer, So sorry you weren’t able to make it this time. You’ll be back under better circumstances and the summit will be that much more sweet. Safe journey home!
Uncle Matt

Posted by: Matt Pietro on 4/27/2014 at 12:40 pm

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Most Popular Entries

Denali Expedition: Champion Still at Basecamp Waiting to Fly

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Assemble in Punta Arenas

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team’s Adventure Complete

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Not Yet!

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 24th Summit!

Mountaineering Training | 3 Training Principles From RMI Guide Eric Frank

Mt. Rainier: Whittaker, McDowell and ALA Teams Summit!

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Climbs to 11,200’

Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Acclimatize on Rucu Pichincha

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Back to Namche Bazaar

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