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RMI Guide Linden Mallory Blogs for Leave No Trace

With RMI's very successful Aconcagua season wrapped up and our Everest Expedition just a few days from being underway, RMI Guide Linden Mallory discusses how our dedication to Responsible Climbing and the fundamentals of Leave No Trace influence our climbs as a guest writer on the Leave No Trace Community Blog. From the planning and packing of our climbs to the daily activities around camp, Linden outlines how we approach our climb and offers some good advice for planning of your own adventures. Check out his blog post here. Read more about RMI's dedication to Responsible Climbing here.
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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Acclimating Hike around Pheriche

Despite moving to 14,000' yesterday, we all slept soundly in Ang Nuru's lodge here in Pheriche and the clear morning revealed the stunning panorama of peaks that we find ourselves amidst. With a day to hike and acclimatize here around Pheriche we left the teahouse and began ascending tight switchbacks up a ridge to the north of the village. Quickly gaining altitude, we were able to catch our first views of Island Peak, known locally as Imja Tse as we looked to the east up the Imja Khola valley below us. Standing proudly around Island Peak rose Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar, creating a grand panorama surrounding the mountain. Focusing our attention back on the trail, we continued uphill, eventually reaching the rocky outcropping Nangkar Tshang at over 16,500'. It felt good to push our bodies to these new altitudes and the team climbed wonderfully, moving smoothly up and back down the steep hillsides above Pheriche. As we stood on the summit, looking out at the views around us and watching the clouds gradually roll up the valley from far below, three Himalayan Eagles soared past us. It was an incredible sight to see, these massive birds playing in the thermals at such altitudes. We watched them fly back and forth before gradually moving up the valley. We returned to the teahouse in the afternoon, just as the clouds rolled in. Legs tired after a solid day of walking, we kicked back in the dining room and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. Today is Mark's birthday and unbeknown to him Karen has convinced Ang Nuru to prepare a birthday cake up here for him, we are looking forward to surprising him with it this evening. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Great pictures! Exciting to follow your journey everyday. Be safe, my love to you and Sara

Posted by: Phylis Whitehead on 4/1/2011 at 3:46 am

Nice to see you looking good . we love the pictures. happy to see you are having fun. keep safe,
love,
Scott & Annette

Posted by: Scott & Annette Sanders on 3/31/2011 at 8:28 pm


Mt. Baker: Summit Easton Glacier!

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci and Team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier. The team had a great three days of climbing. The Easton Glacier Route of Mt. Baker is perfect for the beginner looking to learn about climbing on glaciers, or the experienced climber seeking to stand atop a northwest classic.

Congratulations Team for taking on the challenge! 

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Congratulations to all Army hikers who have found their grit again. You made it!

Posted by: Vickie on 8/2/2022 at 2:21 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sherpa Team Setting up High Camp While the Team Rests

Now it gets interesting in Everest-ville. Chherring, Dawa Jamba and Kaji made a significant contribution to our team's potential success today. They got up around 2 AM, put on big packs at ABC and climbed all the way to the South Col, establishing what will be our High Camp at 26,000 feet. All three were safely back down the Lhotse Face and into ABC by noon. They'll hope to repeat that extremely big morning of work in the next few days... boosting enough tents, fuel, oxygen and miscellaneous heavy stuff up to the Col so that the door will be open for our summit bid. Just when that summit bid will take place is uncertain at this point. To be sure, when Linden, Sara and myself came down from ABC yesterday we were bucking the local trend. There were dozens of our friends, fellow guides and Sherpas pushing up the lower mountain with summit stars in their eyes already. This season is turning out to be different from those in recent memory in that the weather window is open early and people are taking advantage. This has long been a hope for those of us who habitually attempt Everest..."If only the weather could be good enough, early enough so that everybody wasn't going for the summit on the same four crowded days in late May" Climbers are getting to the top now... we heard that Apa Sherpa got his record 21st summit of the mountain today... British climber Kenton Cool is already back home after a head-spinning and nearly unheard of three-week round-trip to the summit (we are on our seventh or eighth week). In the next couple of days it should get quite busy at the top of the world as the bulk of the assembled expeditions look to get it all done while the jet-stream seems to be otherwise occupied. If it seems like I'm jealous then perhaps I am... but only mildly. A good shot at the top for others is not necessarily a good shot for us. Having just come down the mountain from our last round of acclimatization yesterday, I'm satisfied enough with our exertions and not yet restless and bored enough to be jealous of anyone else's. Although the three of us are each feeling strong and healthy now, we need a good chunk of rest and we cling to the belief that a viable weather window later in the month will be warmer and quieter than a viable weather window in the middle of the month... we want every single advantage. That is why we were trying to get up to sleep at Camp 3 a few days ago. Without question it would have been a big plus for our small team to have the experience and confidence that results from an admittedly dreadful night in a tent at 24,000 ft. But it was clear to each of us that Sara was getting worn out in the most-recent effort to reach that camp... who knows why? Perhaps the last rest period in Base Camp wasn't long enough... perhaps the windy-night at Camp 1 deprived her of the sleep she needed... perhaps the hot sun in the Western Cwm or the cold morning at ABC drained her reserves... perhaps, perhaps, perhaps... it doesn't really matter. It is a huge disadvantage that younger climbers suffer from -that they don't always know their bodies well enough to know just why and when they'll be tired instead of burly. But in any case, Sara was getting worked by the climb to Camp 3... she knew it, I knew it, and Linden knew it. We all were completely clear that despite this, she could make it up to the camp under her own power and spend the night if necessary. But the day's goal no longer seemed to be a smart one of it meant getting our most important climber exhausted on the doorstep to the "death zone". It became crystal clear that we needed to focus on a bigger picture than a counter-productive practice night at Camp 3... we needed to get down, to get in a good rest and to get focused on a summit bid that fit our needs. And so here we are... listening to other teams high up on the hill, cheering on our own Sherpa team of heroes, eating everything in sight, beginning to talk just a bit of things we might do in June, keeping Tuck occupied with horseshoes, card games and dice, enduring daily snow showers, making one another laugh and trying to stay focused on a big picture that involves going to 29,035 ft soon... and coming down safely. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Thanks for the posts, Dave.  I will be keeping track.  Hopefully that weather window that normally occurs later in May still happens and isn’t going on now.  Dave, did you ever meet my buddy Brett in Taos this year?  Climb safe. Looking forward to the next post. Hans

Posted by: Hans Reigle on 5/12/2011 at 2:58 pm

Thank you, Dave, for this insightful description of a very complex venture. Our gratitude to all those who make this happen and our thoughts and prayers are with everyone. Sara, to get so far up to now is an incredible accomplishment all by itself. Rest well. Bill, is putt-putt available at Base Camp? Thinking of you all with much love.

Posted by: Mom /Grandma on 5/12/2011 at 6:29 am


Mt. Rainier: Champion, Hoch & Five Day Teams Reach Summit

The Five Day Climb July 21 - 25 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Nikki Champion & Joe Hoch. The teams reached the summit early this morning and were well on their descent around 7 am. RMI Guide Trevor Katz provided the photos from the teams descent from the crater rim.  Once back at Camp Muir everyone will repack and continue another 4.5 miles to Paradise.  They will then transfer to Rainier BaseCamp for a celebration and conclusion of their program.

Nice work everyone!

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Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru: Davis and Team Arrive in Huaraz

Hello from Huaraz!

After a few years of hiatus due to the pandemic, we were welcomed back graciously into the beautiful country of Peru. It was such a treat to again be able to enjoy the bustling coastal grandeur of Lima while sampling delicious ceviche and other fine Peruvian cuisine last night after some long flights. We began our eight-hour bus ride to the climbing and trekking hamlet of Huaraz promptly this morning after breakfast and were greeted by the always friendly staff at the Andino Club Hotel. A true climbers hotel with some Swiss roots. It was so great to catch up with our local partner and IFMGA guide Peter as well as some of the other support staff with whom we hadn't seen in a few years. Tired from multiple days of travel via busses and planes we quickly enjoyed dinner and got settled into our rooms for a full nights rest where we will begin acclimatizing by sleeping at 10,000'.

Buenas Noches! 

RMI Guides Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan and Team

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Denali Expedition: JT Schmitt & Team SUMMIT!

Thursday, June 2, 2022 1:35 am PT

SUMMIT! 

The last two weeks of working hard on Denali payed off today. At 5:30 pm today we stood on top of the highest point in North America!

It was a beautiful sunny day, with a bit of wind but not too much to turn us around. It was a relatively quiet day with only a few other teams trying for the summit. The team performed incredibly well and summited in style! Now we are back at 17 camp, enjoying clear views all the way down to the tundra, where you can see the Alaskan sun shimmering off lakes over 15,000 feet below us.

Tomorrow we start the process of retracing our steps back down the mountain.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

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CONGRATS!! It’s absolutely incredible to follow your journey and to see this great news!

Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 6/5/2022 at 9:28 pm

Yay!!! Congratulations!!! I’ve had so much fun following you along your climb. Big congratulations to my brother, Scott - I am SO PROUD of you! Way to go, team!

Love, Julie

Posted by: Julie Joyce on 6/3/2022 at 3:19 am


Torres Del Paine: King and Team Hike to Lago Dickson

Today we got started around 8:30 after a light breakfast. We had a windy and rainy night but woke to some sunshine and a light breeze in camp. Our walk took us through rolling fields interrupted by dense thickets of brush and small stunted and twisted birch like trees. We followed the Paine River and eventually towards its headwaters at Lago Dickson which is created by the Dickson glacier.

We had clouds, wind, rain & sun, or some mix of the three for 12 miles. As we approached Lago Dickson, we got views of the glaciated peaks and valley glaciers that carved and continue to dominate this landscape.

The camp lies on a peninsula filled with dense trees and a large field. We ducked into the Refugio as the rain intensified. The group is having a fun time, lots of laughing and a few sore feet.

Tomorrow we head for Los Perros camp. Getting a message out from Perros can be difficult as we are in a tight valley with large alpine peaks on each side. If you don’t hear from us, we’ll check in Friday once we reach Refugio Grey.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

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SheJumps Team Reaches the Mt. Rainier Summit!

The Mt. Rainier RMI and SheJumps Climb, led by Hannah Smith, reached the summit today at 5:40am with 100% success! They have started their descent from the crater rim and will return to Basecamp later today.

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This team humbly crushed the route and completed in style!

Posted by: Number one fan on 7/13/2021 at 11:38 pm

Congrats!!! What an amazing accomplishment!!

Posted by: Kimberly Austin-Ellis on 7/12/2021 at 3:45 pm


Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier: Burns and Team 100% to the Summit

We are happy to report that the entire team stood on top of Mt. Baker this morning. We had clear skies and spectacular views of Washington’s volcanoes to the south. The team climbed strong. We're on the descent and headed back to the trailhead.

RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team

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