We reached Mweka Camp at 2:50 PM to finish our 16-hour climbing day.
The “day” began last night at 11 PM when we woke for our summit bid. After a little breakfast, at 12:05 AM we hit the trail behind Naiman - our lead guide.
Our team made rapid progress, passing several other teams on the dirt and rock switchbacks. It was a fairly cold night, and that was before the winds started up. By our second rest break, a few hours into the climb we were adding clothing layers and putting on bigger gloves. By our fourth break, most of the team had all available clothing on. We hit the crater rim at Stella Point by 5:40 AM and took just a brief pause there for food and water before pushing on toward Uhuru - Kilimanjaro’s summit. The light of day came slowly and beautifully on as we walked on the rim at 19,000 ft. Sunrise was most welcome at 6:30 but by then our attention was on the phenomenal shadow cast by Kilimanjaro in the skies to the west… exactly over the summit of 15,000 ft Mt Meru.
We hit Uhuru at 6:40 AM and shed a few tears, shook hands, hugged, and snapped photos. It was an amazingly beautiful time of day. But it was also bitterly cold and windy, so we got out of there at 6:55 and headed back to Stella without delay. Winds were really picking up at Stella then and putting a lot of dirt and dust in the air, so we cruised right on over the edge and started dropping altitude. The descent was a combination of careful steps and full-on boot skiing through steep gravel and pumice.
We were back to camp at a respectable hour 9:40 AM, rubbing our eyes and wiping dirt and dust off our faces. Our fabulous staff treated the team to a full brunch/lunch of 15,000 ft pizza and coffee, after which we left camp bound for Mweka - 5000 ft lower. The trail down is direct and rough, we certainly were cautious and ready to be done for much of it.
Now it is a relief to be camped in the forest for one more night. The air has moisture again… and oxygen in abundance.
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Mark Falender and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, few clouds, and very pleasant weather with the sun peaking through every now and then. The teams are now en route back to RMI Basecamp in Ashford.
Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Route and reported similar conditions. They are headed back to their high camp at 10,800' feet and will finish their week of training on the mountain and return to RMI Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
I was part of the 4 day summit climb on June 19 with Mark & Solveig. What a magical day it was and I feel extremely privileged to have been part of it. Thank you guys so very much for your guidance, expertise and support. This has truly been one of the greatest challenges of my life and I will cherish it for a long time to come. I have taken so much away from this experience - the challenges that this mountain presents, especially the Cleaver, had me digging deeper than I ever had to attain success. Mark, Solveig, Sean, Geoff and Levi - you guys are all rock stars!! RMI can and should be very proud of you. I was sad to see the program end. Hopefully, I will link up again with Mark for a climb up Grand Teton!
Thank you again very much!
Ben Elliott
Posted by: Ben Elliott on 6/21/2012 at 2:19 am
Hey Hans ....... GREAT JOB. Blue sky’s 365 !!! Gotta love it. xoxo Love and hugs greta
Greetings from Torres Del Paine National Park in the heart of Chilean Patagonia.
That isn´t exactly where we were supposed to be today, but it is quite nice. At our briefing yesterday morning in Punta Arenas, our logistical partner (ALE) advised us that big snowstorms were complicating travel to Union Glacier in the Antarctic interior. We were given three free days to explore. This is something of a luxury since ordinarily, waiting in Punta Arenas to begin a Vinson Expedition means not knowing from one hour to the next whether the fight will be imminent. Of course we´d rather be down on the Ice right now, but storms and delays are quite normal when one is traveling to Antarctica and we do not want to go flying if conditions are not absolutely right. Safety first. Last night, the team got together in Punta for a round of the traditional Chilean cocktail, the Pisco Sour and then we enjoyed a fine dinner at La Luna restaurant. This morning, most of us piled into a van and enjoyed the Patagonian countryside and wildlife as we cruised for about six hours to the park. We were treated to big and beautiful views of the massive stone towers, normally obscured by cloud down here at the edge of the Patagonian Icecap. Guanaco were plentiful and our driver, Roberto, graciously halted the vehicle for every photo opportunity. We´ll spend two nights here at the end of the road, some in the hostel and some in the hotel. All of us are looking forward to stretching our legs for hiking tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guides Linden Mallory and Alex Van Steen have been working with Leave No Trace for the past several years helping complete a new Mountaineering Curriculum for Leave No Trace. The curriculum was originally developed by Peter Whittaker, RMI, Leave No Trace, and several land managers and land users. It will soon be available to the broader mountaineering community through Leave No Trace.
Linden was interviewed in Leave No Trace's latest Newsletter discussing the role of Leave No Trace ethics in the mountains and in his guiding career. Check out the story here!
We had a PERFECT summit day today. Last night's winds had calmed by morning and we got started just before 8 am. We climbed along Lenz Rocks before banking to the west and beginning the traverse across a large bowl towards the saddle between the East and West summits. The sky was brilliant blue all day without a cloud in the sky. We intersected the route to the West summit and all of the Southside climbers midway up the final pitch. The timing couldn't have been better as all of them were already descending and we had the summit entirely to ourselves, something of a rarity on Elbrus. The views over the surrounding Caucasus and the verdant green hills back towards Kislovodsk were stunning, and we spent about 30 minutes on top taking them in.
Marc and Mike decided to take an extra jaunt to tag the East summit as well, while the rest of the team descended back to our camp at Lenz. We took a brief break, then packed our camp to descend further to the relative comforts of the Moraine Camp at 12,000'. With ramen to recharge us, we're headed to bed after a long, full day. We'll continue to base camp in the morning, more than likely spend the night there, then return to Kislovodsk the following day. But now, to bed.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
Greetings once again from Camp 1. We woke up this morning to a bit of a mixed bag, with a large cloud cap spinning up high, but clear, sunny skies over camp. After dragging our feet over breakfast and watching the clouds, it seemed that things were moving in the right direction and dissipating. Once we decided the move was a go, the team did a fantastic job of crashing camp and getting packed for the move. Just as fast if not faster however, was the change in the weather trend. The clouds that had been dissipating rebuilt ever stronger, and we began to rethink our decision. After some more staring at the clouds, scuffing of feet, and sighing, we decided the prudent decision was to reset camp and take a rest day. Prudent that decision turned out to be: not long after the tents were back up, our wintry mix began to fall again, and within an hour or two, a repeat of our thunder and lightning storm from yesterday.
With a lot of tent time today, and weather persisting this evening, we decided to treat ourselves to a delicious pasta dinner cooked by the camp cook, Olga. It was a nice break from the tents to share a meal, stories, and jokes around a table with a roof over our heads. With full bellies, we are retiring, with hopes that we wake up to a better scene tomorrow, and can continue our upward progress.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jeff Martin, and team
Good luck to you and the team!! Great to read your updates…
Cheers from the heat and 90% humidity of Houston!!
Posted by: Salil on 8/11/2014 at 8:24 am
Senor Senior Guide Pete…Elbrus and from the north side - Look at you !...Dont believe you’ve been there before have you ?...If I’m right - holy moley I lead you in one peak category :)...All the best for a memorable / great climb…Saying the Weather Prayer…Spain and El Camino 19 days and counting…All the best + God bless…Waltero
RMI Guide Andy Bond and the entire Denali Expedition June 15th team reached the summit of Denali, North America's highest peak around 5:40 pm PT. Andy reported a beautiful day, light winds and a climbing time of 6 hours from High Camp to the summit. We are happy to report that along with all of the team members on the summit was the hula hoop complete with video proof.
As of 10 pm PT, the team had safely returned to High Camp for the evening.
Congratulations to the June 15th Denali Expedition!
This was the third day of rest for my team. We began it in the usual way, by collecting outside the dining tent for coffee in the sun. Except this morning we sat in light fog until the sun finally burned it all away. Even in fog, sitting on a few thousand feet of ice, it wasn't uncomfortable as now we are past mid-May and temperatures are relatively mild. Kent Harvey, Seth Waterfall and I are by now on pretty much the same internal clock... Erica, being a teenager and therefore presumably in need of more sleep, sometimes still needs a morning yell when the breakfast gets served. With the fog gone, we watched Melissa Arnot work her way safely down through the lowest part of the icefall. She is feeling better and we figure a couple of days BC rest will make her a strong addition to our upcoming summit bid. We could hear Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker from time to time on the morning radio, working their way up through the Yellow Band and ultimately the Geneva Spur, the final barrier guarding the approach to the South Col. They, along with Jake Norton, Gerry Moffatt, and John Griber, reported calm and easy conditions on the Lhotse Face and it was obvious they were making fine progress on their way into high camp. Tendi and Lama Babu spent last night at the South Col, building up the camp for the rest of our team and even scouting the first few hours of the route to the summit to make sure that the fixed ropes were still useable after last week's snowstorms.
Erica Dohring and I went for a light hike toward civilization after breakfast. We didn't go all the way to Gorak Shep as neither of us wanted that much (or that little) civilization at this stage of the game, having gotten quite used to basecamp living and not requiring too much more than that before the summit. But the trail toward Gorak Shep is still useful. Basecamp is in a dead-end valley... there really aren't any exits, save some very burly climbing routes that might take one up Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse or Nuptse... or of course, one could wander up the Khumbu Icefall, but we only intend to do that one more time. The trail down-valley toward Gorak Shep was the next best thing for us on this morning. We still need to rest and recuperate from our pushes to high altitude, but then we also need to stretch our legs for this final push to the highest of altitudes. We were relieved to note that the trekker traffic had greatly diminished on the trail, along with the yak trains and porters... not that we don't like yaks, trekkers and porters, just that it is easier walking on an empty track now that the season has moved along. Erica and I got just far enough down the trail to enjoy an unobstructed view of Everest's rocky summit pyramid. Before heading back to Base, we sat watching the mountain for a time, not picking up any of the usual signs of wind... no cloud plume spawned by the summit, no streamers of snow. It all looked pretty serene and contrary to the forecasts, which still call for winds of 40 and 50 knots on these days. It gave us hope that our first summit team will luck out with calm conditions tonight so as to launch their final push. Most of the other teams are in the camps behind and below them now, lining up for what could be a busy four or five days of Everest summiting. We hope they all succeed and that the Jet Stream drifts far to the North in our next days of rest.
We are torn between fully imagining the challenges and discomforts that our first team faces, now that they are safely tucked in the tents at Camp IV, and giving our imaginations a break (since we'll face all of those same challenges ourselves soon enough). Tonight will be an interesting time. Linden Mallory will do the important work of staying up through the night, here at basecamp, so as to monitor the first team's progress. They don't have to go for it tonight. Winds may build up on the Col and prevent an attempt, but our gang would still have the ability to hunker down and wait a day for better conditions. But of course, the clock is now ticking... the team is now breathing bottled Oxygen (with the exception of Ed Viesturs) and using up resources -to say nothing of brain and brawn cells... We hope they get their break soon and jump all over the opportunity.
Peter Whittaker on the radio with Linden Mallory.
Peter Whittaker explains choice to stop climbing for the night.
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Dan May watched the sunrise from Ingraham Flats today. Due to route conditions the team was unable to safely climb higher. They are on the descent from Camp Muir to Paradise.
Our hopes for sunrise photos of Cotopaxi were dashed when we woke to a layer of low clouds blanketing the hillside. The upside was additional sleep and a leisurely start to the day with pancakes and coffee. Our mission for the day was some active rest after sleeping at a new altitude of almost 12,000’. Inspired by our caffeine intake, several of us jumped on the backs of a few horses. Fortunately, no injuries and no feelings hurt. Nacho, our Ecuadorian friend and guide, has been sharing his country with us the past couple days. We went on a cruise in his high country backyard and were introduced to some of his equine friends. Never really taken a rest break before with a small herd of horses. After we banked 1,500’ feet of vertical, tagging almost 13,000’, we once again finished the day with an equatorial downpour.
RMI Guide Jess Matthews
Congratulations! Enjoy the safari!
Posted by: Jeff Tracy on 8/8/2022 at 12:43 pm
Congrats to all! I am in awe…
Posted by: Mnica on 8/7/2022 at 2:39 pm
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