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Entries from Mt. McKinley


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 7,800’

June 17, 2016 - 11:36 pm PT What a big few days it's been! Forgive the radio silence, but our team has been busy getting some real climbing done. Since our glorious finale to our ascent, we descended back to 17 Camp and had a well deserved rest. We awoke early this morning with a motivating forecast to move and packed up our alpine home and began our descent. As we scooped up caches at 16,600, 14,200 and 11,000 our decision to beat feet downhill seemed well made. Winds and snow took over the upper camps and we made it to 7,800 camp where the air is thick and the temps are pleasant (by our new standards). We carved out a quick camp and are planning on an early morning to try and catch a flight tomorrow. Wish us one more day of decent weather and we'll be back to tell all the details of one hell of an adventure! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Holy buckets!  “Wings on your feet” and all that!  I’m so glad the weather is holding and that your descent is going well.  You all deserve a much needed rest so get K2 on the line in preparation of the first leg back home!  I can’t WAIT to hear all about this wonderful adventure!  Thank you again to God and to you three very accomplished and knowledgeable guides!  You’re the BEST!!!  Bird

Posted by: Bird on 6/18/2016 at 6:53 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Begin Their Climb

June 17, 2016 - 8:48 pm PT We are climbing! We had a rather early departure from Basecamp this morning, leaving at 3 a.m. while the glacier was still nice and firm. The crew made quick work of the task at hand arriving into our new camp at the base of Ski Hill on the Kahiltna Glacier in 4 hours and 20 minutes. Rock Stars! We spent most of the day "sport eating" in preparation for the high calorie demand that this mountain will require. We had some clouds move in mid day, but the weather turned out to be great. We plan on another early morning rally up to 9,800 camp. We tried to count how many shells smothered in Velveeta we ate tonight to prep for tomorrow. Unfortunately we're not as top notch as Joe Horiskey. Love to the fans! And the Fams! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love seeing those pics! Hope the weather continues to be favorable. I love the shell counting game :-) One step at a time!

Posted by: Kelly Tybor on 6/19/2016 at 6:32 am

Keep up the great work!!!
“...can’t believe how far I’ve climbed.”  Bruce, The Rising

Looking forward to hearing all the details and seeing the pics (over a cold one, that is)
My best,
Tony

Posted by: Tony Capaci on 6/19/2016 at 5:31 am


Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Reaches the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 8:27 pm PT Hey this is Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately and the Upper West Rib Team we are standing on the summit of Denali, right now! We just had an excellent climb of the Upper West Rib. It's about 7 pm and we are going to tag the top and turn around and head home. Beautiful day here, just a few puffy clouds way off in the distance but other than that, clear as can be. Thanks for following along. We will check in again when we are back at camp. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens


RMI Guide Geoff Schellens calls from the summit of Denali with the Upper West Rib Team.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Captain Jim, Ry, Julia and I had dinner last night.  We’re all so proud and happy about your big big accomplishment.  Can’t wait to hear your story and see some more pictures.

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/17/2016 at 4:59 pm

CONGRATS! So awesome!

Can’t wait to see the pics.

Chris

Posted by: Underwood on 6/17/2016 at 4:07 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Call from the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 6:07 PM PT Hello from the top of Denali. We were lucky today and the mountain let us to the tip top. We are all doing fantastically well, the weather is just about perfect and we will soon start our descent. But we just wanted to check in, we will enjoy the views for a little bit longer, but the team has done great, everyone worked super hard. I'm quite proud of all of them. We will give you a shout from the lowlands. Take care all. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Denali, Alaska.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the whole team!  Fantastic news Jason, I’m looking forward to hearing all about your experience.  Safe descent and “slán abhaile” (Irish for safe home).  Fr Joseph

Posted by: Fr Joseph on 6/17/2016 at 11:16 pm

WoooooHooooooo!!!!!
Way to go all!!
Safe downclimb and tasty beer!

Posted by: Jones-Hartmans on 6/17/2016 at 8:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team at Kahiltna Base

June 16, 2016 - 4:16 P.M. PDT And we're off! RMI Denali Expedition #7 (known in some circles as "el Siete") landed on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning around 10 o'clock to clear skies and breathtaking views of the Alaska Range. The team took advantage of the clear weather by leisurely setting up camp, and then brushing up on anchor building, crevasse rescue, and sled rigging skills. Our next move is to make some dinner and head to bed early in anticipation of our move to Ski Hill camp while the snow is at its most frozen state- is 3 A.M. early morning or late at night? We'll let you know... For now, excitement is high, stress is low, views are stunning. Love to all friends, family, and Joe Horiskey, RMI Guide Mike Haugen & gang
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an experience! The pictures are breathtaking, but probably don’t even compare to the real view! Cheers to all of you on your amazing journey!

Have fun Phil and everyone on the climb.

Use your core ;)

Posted by: Laura Andrews on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am

Jon, A&D is will be monitoring your progress and living vicariously through your amazing adventure!! 

Posted by: Lisa on 6/17/2016 at 6:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we're gonna need it! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent.  I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team.  Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm


Denali Expedition: The Upper West Rib Team Moves to Balcony Camp

June 15, 2016 - 7:20 P.M. PDT Late last night winds picked up on the upper mountain and persisted into this morning. We woke up early, packed and had breakfast and then watched the wind up high. By 10:30AM we could tell that the trend was diminishing winds, this matched our forecast, so we started up towards the West Rib. The winds had filled in our tracks from the other day so we had to re-break trail back up to our cache. After retrieving our cache we pressed on to gain the ridge and then we picked our way though the first rock band and on up to the balcony camp at 17k. The weather was perfect and with spectacular views of the Alaska Range. The team did a fantastic job today and everyone is feeling good and excited to be climbing. Weather permitting we will go for the summit tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the UWR Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck on your assent.

Steve G

Posted by: Steve on 6/16/2016 at 5:02 pm

Great job team!! Looking forward to your next post. Keep up the good and safe work !!

Posted by: Allison Woodman on 6/16/2016 at 4:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali! We didn't get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow's ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we'll be just fine. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jason,
Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!
~Knutsons

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm


Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Enjoys the View

June 13, 2016 - 7:09 pm PT After a big day caching at 16,400' on the rib we slept in this morning. Eventually folks started to rise and trickle into the kitchen where Steve was make breakfast burritos and fresh coffee, we relaxed, ate and drank our fill until around noon. Then we got geared up for a short walk over to the Edge of the World. Today was a perfect day for it with mostly clear skies and no wind. We spent an hour taking pictures and enjoying the view of the Alaska Range before heading back to camp. We did a little bit of fixed line and running belay training and then chilled for the afternoon. Tonight we will be exploring some exotic cuisine from India and sipping tea before bed. It is looking like the next couple of days will bring snow and high winds to the upper mountain so we will most likely have a couple more rest days at 14 before it breaks later in the week. The weather days are actually a blessing in disguise, it allows us to be fully rested and better acclimatize. Everyone is in good spirits and enjoying some down time. Thanks for following along with us, The Upper West Rib team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jim and Team,  Ry and I are following you everyday.  The pictures are absolutely amazing.  We’re excited to watch this story unfold.  Can’t wait to see you and hear the stories.

Mac & Ry

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/15/2016 at 9:14 am

Ben,

As I sit here suffering through shin splints from a 5 mile run, I can’t help but marvel at the undertaking you have taken on. May the force of a thousand Spartan’s guide your way safely and swiftly. This goes for Jim too (and the rest of the team of course). Keep at it bruh. We are all super proud and super stoked. We are beers ready, glittered up.

Posted by: Spiros Botos on 6/14/2016 at 7:19 pm

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