Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 7:42 PM PT After yesterday's grueling day the team slept in until the sun hit our tents, 9ish. We had a slow start with salmon and cream cheese bagels and coffee. The goal for today was to build walls around our tents and get our kitchen/dining tent dug out and reinforced. The walls are built by digging through the loose snow into the firm layers below. Then we take snow saws and begin to quarry large blocks to be the foundational row. Each successive layer gets smaller so the wall isn't top heavy. The walls help keep wind from destroying our tents. The team rallied through their wall building then helped the guides finish reinforcing the kitchen tent or Posh as we call it. The Posh is a five sided tent without a floor. We dig a hole in the snow and have benches for people to sit and cooking counters for the guides. Out of the wind and sun we enjoy our meals, today's dinner is hand rolled chicken burritos. With the menacing forecast on the horizon we will put the finishing touches on camp and hunker down for the remnants of a tropical cyclone that is headed for Alaska. People are happy for the sunshine and tired from the 'light exercise' of camp craft. This helps us acclimate in preparation for heading to 17,000' Camp, High Camp, for our cache day and ultimately our summit day when the weather and mountain tell us it's time to go up. Until then we will be at 14,000' continuing to get comfortable being uncomfortable and focusing on the tasks that our in our control and leaving the conditions that our out of our control to Denali. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 14th - 4:36 pm PT We aren’t getting restless yet! We had a beautiful but gusty morning at camp that allowed us to improve our storm walls and batten down the hatches. The summit has been displaying quite the cap over it with long tails indicating the strong winds up high on top of the frigid temperatures. The forecast has finally confirmed that beginning tomorrow and through the weekend will bring heavy snow. We are going to catch the tail of a tropical surge coming off the Pacific, some words to describe it have been a cyclone or Pineapple Express. We will keep you updated on the snowfall amounts! Yesterday, we had a greeting party to welcome Mike King’s team at 14 Camp. We are glad to have some additional company as we wait out this storm. Thanks for the blog comments from our family and friends, keep them coming! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I should read my voice recognition typo’s before I send. That first line was supposed to have read:

YOU ARE ALL SO AMAZING!!!

Posted by: Liuise (again) on 6/15/2018 at 7:29 pm

You are also amazing!!
It seemed that everything was going so smoothly at first but it is these days of enduring this storm that will probably the story that gets told a lot. Too bad you can’t package the cold and bring it back with you to Las Vegas, huh Marc! We’re cheering you on from down here in the Rockies!

Posted by: Louise on 6/15/2018 at 7:26 pm

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT With a forecast that hasn't been stellar, the guides woke at 2:30 AM only to see strong winds above. We continued to check for high winds until 6 am, needing to make a decision on whether to move camp or burn another weather day, we opted to pack up. Hoping for the sun to calm the wind we started out at 9 am through boot high snow, calf high snow, knee high snow and you guessed it thigh high snow. We made good time without any congestion on the route, but it was not an easy day. Once we picked up our cache at 12,500' we slogged up towards Windy Corner. Packs were heavy, sleds didn't help and the loose drifted in snow made for a tired team. We got chased around Windy Corner by a storm then promptly walked into a basin where the wind had stopped and we were quickly to hot. Today's lesson was, "learn to be comfortable, being uncomfortable". Freeze or fry is all you can expect up here, ideal doesn't exist. We will take a well deserved rest day tomorrow and maybe for the next week if the projected Pineapple Express weather front dumps 9 feet of snow. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

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Diana King here, Mike’s Mom. We to enjoy keeping up wit the Team from Atlanta. Wish he could get home more often.

Posted by: Diana King on 6/15/2018 at 2:09 pm

Robb-o!!
Sending some positive weather vibes your way!! Hope you, Cole and the rest of the team are having an awesome adventure!!
XOXOXO

Sharoni

Posted by: Sharon Del Vecchio on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT Today we had another great breakfast. Then the crew geared up for a climb up towards the fixed ropes. We have had more than our share of good rest in the past few days. We needed to move some blood and keep our fitness we have gained on this trip. From the forecast we are seeing it looks like we could have a few more days of poor weather. We hope to take another climb for fitness tomorrow and be ready for a break in the weather. Fingers crossed! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 8:54 PM PT The mountain weather was kind to us today. After a hearty breakfast at the Roadhouse in Talkeetna, we made our way to the airstrip where K2 Aviation told us we were good to fly. We hopped into our climbing clothes, did our last minute list checks, and got into the planes. After a phenomenal 45 minute flight over the tundra and into the Alaska Range, we landed on the snow runway that is Kahiltna Base Camp. We spent the day taking in the sights, practicing crevasse rescue skills, and preparing for our long, heavy slog to our next camp at 7,800'. Our plan is to wake up super early and be traveling across the Kahiltna Glacier while all of the snow bridges are very frozen. We also like to travel at night to avoid baking in the heat of the day as all of the white, snowy surfaces reflect sun back up at us. We either freeze or fry in the mountains and the 24 hours of daylight allow us to travel safely whenever we choose based on the temperature. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

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Looks like beautiful weather! Wishing you all a safe and amazing climb, especially you Craig Clark!

Posted by: Carol clark on 6/14/2018 at 8:29 am

Hello Mike, I’m looking forward to following this team up to the summit and back. It was a pleasure climbing with Rusty, Josh and David on Mt Rainier in 2015. I know that they are in good hands on this trip.

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/14/2018 at 5:15 am

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Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:59 AM PT Our Denali Expedition Team is assembled in Talkeetna and ready to climb! After the last hectic few days of travel and packing, we are loaded in the plane and ready to be on our way to the mountain. We are looking forward to the adventure and challenge we are facing. Wish us luck!!! RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan and Gloria Roe

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Josh,
Just heard from Keith. Fire has been contained and evac has been lifted.
We are all headed out for our helicopter tour! Hope everyone is doing well. Love and hugs!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/15/2018 at 12:48 pm

Hey Glo! So sorry about the blocking situation. I love and admire you and I wish your team safe adventures. What a great weather day to start out.

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/13/2018 at 11:34 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 9:56 PM PT Today was another windy and snowy day here at 14,000' Camp. After a late breakfast, despite the snow, the team worked together to make an igloo to improve the comfort of the bathroom experience given the current conditions. It’s little projects like these around camp that help down days go by. After a few hours of resting back in our tents the sun made an evening appearance that allowed us to stretch our legs around camp and clear out some of the snow again. The skiers on the mountain have been taking advantage of the evening clearings by enjoying the powder turns to be had just above camp. We’ve enjoyed standing out in the sun watching them ski back to camp. Unfortunately, the outlook for the forecast took a big swing this morning and instead of high pressure settling in for the weekend it now appears we are expecting a major snowstorm and continued high winds through Saturday to stall our summit bid. The team is staying optimistic however, given we may be at 14 camp for a few more days. Tomorrow’s another day and a forecast is only a forecast! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

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Matt Hill, hang in there! We are planning a full reception at the Blanford Rec Center when you get back. There may even be a famous rapper from L.A. there to sing with bubbles.

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/13/2018 at 1:20 pm

Really glad to hear of your resourcefulness ! I’m sure your igloo is much bigger than the on David made with his siblings in the front yard long ago..
Be warm and happy !
Stay strong.
Love,
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/13/2018 at 9:12 am

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Gear at 12,500’

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 5:32 PM PT We'd already sent in the dispatch yesterday and then skies cleared up and we enjoyed a sunny evening. Today however, we woke to grey skies up above and clouds pouring over Kahiltna Pass. The teams in camp all got a slow roll to see who would break trail up Motorcycle Hill. This led to a bottleneck and a slow pace. After an hour the clouds had descended and snow was blowing. Our goal today was a cache around Windy Corner, but due to the volume of climbers, new snow and low visibility we opted for a 12,500' cache. We are back at Camp at 11,000' hoping to get a chance to move up to 14,000' Camp in the next few days. RMI Guide Mike King

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT Not much to report from 11,000' Camp. Today we woke to snow, after breakfast we were shoveling snow and about every two hours since there has been more snow to shovel. The one caveat is that the wind is light. The Team has been working on "out chilling the storm" as a long time RMI guide once put it. We are hopeful that the weather begins clearing tomorrow so we can put a cache in striking distance of 14 Camp. Everyone is healthy and warm. RMI Guide Mike King

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Alex,
After hunting around the RMI website we are 90% sure this is your expedition. Stay warm and tend to the small details: feet, hydration, etc… Best to the whole team- and Malin says you did this to yourself :)

Posted by: Matt & Malin on 6/12/2018 at 9:50 am

Scott, I’ve got my eye on you - and the summit! Keep your leg warm!
Love, Mom

Posted by: Connie Selgrath on 6/12/2018 at 8:29 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 3:42 PM PT We made it through a very snowy and windy night at 14,000' Camp and also made it through the coldest night we have had near -10F. The skies were clear and cold when we crawled out of the tent to nearly two feet of fresh snow. The team cleared the snow from the tents and shoveled the snow out of our snow block fortress. Then we had another amazing breakfast that started with coffee then hash browns, then blueberry pancakes, a Tyler Jones special. We then proceeded to have another round of hash browns and pancakes. This was obviously paired with a healthy serving of crispy bacon. The new snow along with the wind has most the camp relaxed and waiting till the winds up high on the mountain subside and give the new snow time to settle. The forecast is looking up later this week. We will be patient and out chill the wind and snow, then when the opportunity presents, we will make our move to High Camp. Till then we have a fierce game of Yahtzee in the cool tent and laps around camp to keep us busy. Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

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Dave and Team Jones, the ice fortress looks pretty cool. Hopefully you guys get to move to new digs on higher ground soon (winter is coming after all).

Sending lots of love,
Your big sister and the family.

Posted by: Beth on 6/12/2018 at 11:31 pm

Nothing better than a good game of Yahtzee to pass the time! Can’t wait to see the pictures from the summit! Continued prayers for good weather and a safe climb! Big hugs to Nick from his Mom. XO

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/12/2018 at 7:45 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: King & Team Build Camp at 14,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Gear at 12,500’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Weather the Storm at 14,000’ Camp

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