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Entries By gloria roe


Eleven RMI Guides complete the AMGA Alpine Skills Course

At the end of this past April, eleven RMI guides came together in Washington to take the AMGA Alpine Skills Course, a prerequisite for the Alpine Guide Course, and a great continuing education opportunity for all of us to remain at the forefront of current guiding techniques. After a winter of far-flung adventures, Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, and myself converged on Ashford. These courses are an important chance for us to refresh our skillset and learn some new tricks from our peers and the instructors from the AMGA.

Snow anchor construction
Lowering and rappelling practice

Over the course of 5 days at Paradise in Mt. Rainier National Park, and on Mt. Erie, outside Anacortes, WA, we reviewed snow anchor construction and multi-pitch techniques for snowy environments, belaying and lowering techniques, short roping and short pitching, and anchor station management. Success in our guiding often lies in not only being able to utilize a number of techniques to manage risk, but in being able to maintain efficiency and timeliness at the same time. As we worked through different transitions, techniques, and scenarios with our peers, we all walked away with a few new tools in our bag and I’m convinced will be better guides for it.

Short roping practice
Belay station management
Evening celebrations

This was a fantastic event for the eleven of us, and many thanks go out to RMI and the AMGA for putting it on. Congrats to Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, and Alan Davis for completing the course!

Alex Halliday

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Home Sweet Home

Monday, July 2, 2018 - 10:02 am PT

RMI Super Crew 6 is safe and sound back in Talkeetna!
I expected to be tired waking up early to head to Basecamp from our 11k Camp. I realized when you wake up at 11 pm it is either too early or too late to wake up tired! The tired came later.
We had a beautiful night/morning finishing the 10 miles of glacier that delivered us to the airstrip. Denali gave us one more round of mini snow and wind before it finally gave us a moonrise and sunrise combo.
We arrived at the airstrip just in time for the planes to start flying. We got all of our gear de-rigged and ready to throw on the plane when we were informed that the plans for us had just been changed and the pilots would be picking us up at the upper airstrip a 1/4 mile up glacier. Since the planes were already in the air, we loaded sleds and packs up Beverly Hillbilly style and made the trip in record time just as the planes arrived to bring us back to civilization.
I really appreciate all of the hard work and great attitudes that the Super Crew brought to our adventure. Also, thank you for all of your blog comments and support. It made a huge difference knowing all of you had our backs!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It’s the Love of adventure that make a person put themselves through such a grilling trial.. Testing yourselves to how much your body and mind can endure… You All have “shined” through it all and I’m so happy for the guides and happy for the determination of all the participants ... They will all be looking for New Mountains to climb now.. You are Truly a Super Team ! ! !

Congratulations Lindsay and Matt….......I Love you and Welcome back to Terra Firma…

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 7/2/2018 at 8:51 pm

Thank you Mike and Hannah for your enthusiasm. I’m sure your strength inspired Gloria. I think you all made a great team, to welcome every challenge, or at least accept it. I just want to jump up and down to applaud you. Love,

Mom

Posted by: Michelle on 7/2/2018 at 8:49 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Still Headed Home

Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 8:25 pm PT

The weather clearing did not happen until late last night, so we could not make a break to Basecamp. The clear weather did make for a great rest day at 11,000’ camp. We slept in and enjoyed the sunshine while we gathered our strength for one long and final push to the the snowy airstrip.
The team is in great spirits and ready to get back to summer and away from days filled with snow!
Keep your fingers crossed for clear, flying kind of weather for us tomorrow!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We’re on our way to Colorado! Finish strong, David and Super Crew 6!  So ready to hear your stories and toast to your amazing journey.

Posted by: Nancie Summerlin on 7/1/2018 at 10:37 am

Come on home Super Crew!!!  We miss you Shannon nd can not wait to hear your voice   Love you Mom

Posted by: Linda Walsh on 7/1/2018 at 5:12 am


Denali Expediton: Haugen & Team Moving Down the Mountain

Saturday June 30, 2018 12:54 AM PST

We are headed home… Slowly.

We woke up to pretty big winds and blowing snow at 17k camp this morning. Our desired early start turned into an afternoon departure when the weather finally gave in enough for us to descend.
We had a great climb down to 14k camp where we crossed paths with Dave Hahn and his crew. It was great to see them and we hope they get the same kind of summit day that we got to experience!
After picking up some cached gear and food from 14k, we made our way through some snowy weather to 11k camp. The Super Crew did a great job keeping it strong on this very long day! Even though the weather does not look to cooperate with us for a Basecamp dash tomorrow, we are in positioned to make it there when it is time to fly!

I think I can speak for the entire Super Crew 6 when I say we are sick of snow!

RMI Super Crew 6

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Proud for your accomplishment…...What an adventure, something that some people only dream about !

You had a Great Team of Mountaineers to be able to stay the course.. Have a safe trip home..

Grams

 

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/30/2018 at 10:11 pm

I’m so awed by this accomplishment. I plan to share the blog with my English students in the fall when they read the novel, “Peak.” Godspeed for the journey down the mountain.

Posted by: Laura Seasongood on 6/30/2018 at 8:47 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Call from The Summit!

Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 7:11 PM PT

Hi - this is Mike Haugen with RMI Super Crew.  We just summited Denali! We are standing at over 20,000 feet with zero wind, 0 miles per hour, 5 degreess Fahrenheit. Every single one of us is up here in our base layer.  Views are incredible. Wish you were here! We love all of you and thanks for your support. We are going to have a fun trip down and we will be back in camp at 17,000’.

Congratulations to Mike Haugen & the RMI Team!


RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls from the summit of Denali.

On The Map

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My heart continues to swell with pride for all that my son SCOTT has accomplished this past 12 months

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 6/29/2018 at 7:54 am

Congrats you all, that is super exciting. Enjoy and soak up all the goodness of your time together as a kick ass team on your decent.

Posted by: Sabrina on 6/29/2018 at 7:22 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to High Camp

Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 8:39 pm PT

As mountaineers, we tend to take things one day at a time. It just so happens that this was one of the best climbing days ever.
After an early start, we climbed into the gorgeous sunshine that we have not had enough of this trip. The views of the glaciers below and the rocky ridge we were ascending made for stunning photos and memories we will not soon forget! We are pretty sure that Joe Horiskey scheduled a fly-by and wing wave from a F-35 fighter jet just as we topped out on the fixed line! Spectacular!!!
We are currently residing at 17k Camp in the late evening sunshine. This camp stays particularly sunny since there is not much above us to block the Alaskan midnight sun.
Our plan is to go to the summit tomorrow if the mountain allows us! I think the mountain may owe us a good weather summit day after all the Super Crew has been through so far. We will see if Denali agrees!?

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

On The Map

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Hope all the hard work and preparation paid off today with a successful “visit” to the summit.
Congrats to all for what you have accomplished.

Posted by: Molly Frishmuth on 6/28/2018 at 6:35 pm

Josh, rooting for you and the team for a great summit day. Very proud of you. Love following the team’s progress. Will talk soon. Much love from Mom and Dad

Posted by: David Levy on 6/28/2018 at 10:24 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Enjoy a Rest Day at 14,000’

Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 8:54 PM PT

Rest days are the best days! We slept harrrd after our long day of climbing yesterday. When we finally began rustling around we enjoyed a very leisurely pancake brunch and our whole team laughed and chatted with renewed energy.  The afternoon was filled with napping, organizing, stretching, snacking, and enjoying the sunshine. Yes, you read that correctly, sunshine! We finally had a full day with no precipitation! It wasn’t exactly beach weather, but we soaked it up nonetheless, and the day moved at just the perfect pace.
Spirits are high and bellies are full- and every member of the Super Crew would like to send a very warm thank you to Carol Clark for her excellent baked goods! They somehow held up very well in Craig’s pack and he was generous enough (or his pack was heavy enough

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I thoroughly enjoy receiving the Blog’s informing us of your progress.. The pictures are beautiful ! ! !
Stay safe and enjoy the journey.. May God be with you…. Love to all..

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/28/2018 at 5:52 am

Ah, thanks! Glad you all enjoyed Craig’s goodies along with the sunshine!!
Fortified and ready to summit! Love you Craig, Godspeed to all!

Posted by: Carol Clark on 6/27/2018 at 8:44 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Carry Gear to 17,000’ Camp

Monday, June 25, 2018 - 10:31 PM PT

We woke up early to clear, cold skies. Our mission was to carry a load of gear up to our next camp at 17,200 feet. We chose to leave early to avoid the heat wave that can occur on the fixes lines when the sun is hitting them. It seems weird that we are avoiding heat while climbing a giant mountain in Alaska, but the solar radiation bouncing off of all the white snow and other light color surfaces can heat you up something fierce!
Although the conditions were sometimes less than ideal with some deep snow and some blowing wind on the ridge, the Super Crew did fantastically! We are all pretty worn out after such a big day and deserve the rest day we are taking tomorrow. Send us some sunshine vibes so we can rest in warmth!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & the Super Crew

On The Map

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Glo and team! Your lofty goal is now within reach. Hope weather cooperates and you reach summit soon. What an extreme adventure….so proud to know you!
-Mary Ann

Posted by: Mary Ann on 6/27/2018 at 9:39 am

Go Glo and Team! After you rest your weary bones for the next tackle. An arduous journey for sure and so strengthening. Congratulations on all of it. Love and good vibes for the summit.

Mom

Posted by: Michelle on 6/27/2018 at 12:20 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Retrieve Cache, Ready to Move Higher

Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 8:59 PM PT

Oh what a day! We awoke to cool, clear skies and quickly readied ourselves to go retrieve our cache at 13,500. As we walked and the sun began to rise higher in the sky our numb digits started to gain some life and the beautiful views put a little pep in our step. When we returned from the cache we lounged in the sun, listening to Rusty’s eclectic musical mix and filling our bellies with a delightful bagel breakfast. Later we practiced running belays and traveling on fixed lines in preparation for tomorrow’s cache at 17,000’. Our Super Crew cruised on through it and will do great with tomorrow’s climb. We are now packing bags and picking out the perfect food to stash at 17,000’ Camp. We plan to rise early for our climb and be back tomorrow afternoon for some proper rest time.

All is well here at scenic 14,000’ Camp!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I hope the weather cooperates on your final day(s).
MS-150 riders missed Rusty’s intense bicycle face. Lol
Safe climbing to all.
Carlos

Posted by: Carlos Bernal on 6/25/2018 at 6:31 pm

Looks like the weather is finally in your favor! Hey Daddio (aka Craig Clark)- Finally have some news! It’s a GIRL! Another granddaughter on the way! Love you!

Posted by: Nicolette on 6/25/2018 at 6:13 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Super Crew Move Up To 14,200’!

Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 9:57 AM PT

We’re moving up in the world! Today we moved up to 14K camp in style- everyone in our super crew moved well and took great care of themselves along the way. We arrived to our new home with sweltering sunshine with intermittent bouts of glitter snow and calm winds. We made our castle of a camp and enjoyed all of the things 14K camp has to offer- lounging, walking over to the NPS weather board, watching skiers and climbers coming up and down… Ain’t life grand! We intend to back carry tomorrow and reunite with the things we cached at 13,500 yesterday, then spend the rest of the day brushing up our fixed line and running belay skills before caching at 17K camp. We’re go grateful to be outside in base layers!! Thanks for tuning in and keep your fingers crossed that this great weather continues.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What a wonderful experience, one so many of us can only dream about so we enjoy hearing of your struggles and success’s !  May the weather remain calm so you can enjoy the sights as well as the climb..
I love you Lindsay and Matt and pray for you daily..

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/25/2018 at 5:23 am

Cody, you are missed and loved by many down here where it’s nice and sunny! So happy to know all is well and that your team has moved up! Prayers are being sent up daily by your family and friends who are following your journey! Uncle Mike says he is living out his dream thru YOU!

Posted by: Susie Petellin on 6/24/2018 at 6:06 pm

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