Entries from Expedition Dispatches

July 17, 2022 Ishinca Valley to Haraz

With a cold frosty morning and a hot cup of coffee we spent our last morning tearing down our Ishinca basecamp to head back to a night of civilization. Much to our chagrin, our bus broke down due to a leak in the air brakes. Thus, we were stranded for multiple hours on windy rough mountain roads. At least the sun was out and a rescue bus on the way. After another duffle shuffle we made it back to the hospitable Andino hotel in Huaraz with just enough daylight to dry out our tents and sleeping bags on our hotel decks. A well-deserved meal with hot showers were in order as our turnaround to head to our next objective is hours away.

July 18, 2022 Huaraz to Copa Base Camp

Another duffle shuffle and we were on our way to the Copa trail head just an hour north of Huaraz. The trail was in great condition, and we were in forests of eucalyptus until we reached about 13,000’ winding up and up until we reached our basecamp for Copa at 15,200’ over laguna Lejlacocha. The mountain was in the clouds for most of the day, but we were able to enjoy occasional glimpses of the glacier in between rain showers even a nice sunset. After a 4600’ gain in elevation, we were ready to eat a quick dinner and crawl into our warm sleeping bags to rest before our move to high camp tomorrow morning. 

July 19, 2022 Attempt to Move

We were thwarted on our attempt to move from basecamp to our high camp at 17,200’ due to extremely high winds and cloud cap over the upper mountain this morning. Fortunately, we were able to rest in the sun at basecamp despite nearly losing our cook tent from the high winds ripping through camp. The winds finally subsided in the late afternoon and the Viscachas came out to play as well as the Andean geese. With the mountain looming in its majesty above our little basecamp, we came to a group consensus that we might as well try to go climbing tonight. As long as the weather stays calm, route conditions allow, and our bodies hold up, we’ll give it an honest go…

July 20, 2022 Copa Summit Push

It felt like a summer climb in the cascades, walking out of camp with only a few hours of sleep and anticipation, but we left our camp at 10pm after a cup of coffee to give it a go. 2 hours out of basecamp, past a glacial lake and through boulder fields of old, we wandered up to the bottom of an ice chute. Our entrance to the glacier. We quickly transitioned into boots and crampons and climbed the three pitches of rock and waterfall ice onto the steep snow slope that brought us to what would have been our high camp at 17,200.’ We paused here to add our hard-shells to arm ourselves against the windy night as we gulped down some gummies and chocolate covered espresso beans. As the night progressed so did the wind, sustained at 15-20mph with gusts of 30+ at our faces. Looking up between the occasional sandblasts from the sugary snow, the Milky Way and all its splendor still shone brightly, so we continued. We meandered through the steep snow slopes, crevasses, and seracs of the Copa glacier until finally the last pitch onto the summit plateau. 6,188m (20,301ft) and we arrived in a single push from basecamp. Something none of us thought we would pull off. 14,000’ to over 20,000’ and back in a day seemed out of reach, fortunately the weather was clear and just good enough that pacha mama (Goddess of the Andes) allowed us safe passage into this beautiful and sacred space. With tired bodies and full hearts, we celebrated one last mountain meal back in basecamp and slept hard to prepare for the walk back to civilization the next morning. Thankful for a safe and successful trip to this special Andean paradise. 

RMI Guide Hannah Smith reported beautiful climbing conditions from Glacier Peak today. The team went 100% to the top of one of Washington's most remote volcanoes. The team spends two days trekking into camps before starting their summit attempt. The team is staying at White Pass Camp to enjoy some well-deserved rest before descending to the trailhead tomorrow.

Congrats team!

We are happy to report that the entire team stood on top of Mt. Baker this morning. We had clear skies and spectacular views of Washington’s volcanoes to the south. The team climbed strong. We're on the descent and headed back to the trailhead.

RMI Guide Seth Burns and Team

After several days and lots of hands-on training, our Emmons seminar team successfully reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday. RMI Guide Avery Parrinello reported beautiful weather for the climb. The team enjoyed several days of great weather during their training days and ascent from camp to camp before their climb yesterday.

The team is currently on their descent from Camp Schurman back to Basecamp in Ashford where they will celebrate their successful summit. Congrats team!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Bryan Mazaika reached the summit of Mt. Rainier Early this morning. They spend time on the summit enjoying the sunrise before starting their descent. Bryan reported clear skies with 20 mph winds for their climb.  

Congratulations Team! 

Barranco Camp!

Following a lazy afternoon at Shira Camp relaxing, enjoying tent time and playing cards, we were again treated to another incredible dinner by Tosha, our world class chef. This set is up for for today's trek up the Shira Plateau to Lava Tower 15,200' where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch in perfect weather. From here our descent through the giant groundsels, lobelias and senecios of this unique and beautiful valley was easy and fun. Climbing under the steep, western side of this mountain with the remains of its glaciers was impressive, and soon brought us to Camp at 13,070'. With its dramatic beauty and views down valley to the city of Mosha this is surely the most picturesque Camp on the route. Plus, we see our next challenge right in front of us: the Barranco Wall. Our local guides are impressed with the team, commenting on the strength of everyone. An insight I've shared since the first day.

RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

RMI Guide Mike King reported clear, calm, and beautiful views from the summit of Mt. Baker this morning. Congrats to the team for their summit of a classic climb of the Cascades!

The team will spend tonight at camp basking in their success before descending back to the trailhead tomorrow.

The Four Day Climb July 17 - 20 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Casey Grom & Kiira Antenucci.  The teams enjoyed clear skies, sunshine and light winds today.  After enjoying the views and spending time in the crater they began their descent from the crater rim around 6:45 am. Once back at Camp Muir they will pack up and continue down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Mt. Baker - Easton Team July 17 - 19 reached the summit of Mt. Baker on Monday.  They reported clouds at camp and below 7,000' but otherwise a nice day on the mountain.  The team returned to camp in the afternoon and will walk out to the trailhead today.

Way to go team!

RMI Guide Jack Delaney led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise July 14 - 19.  The team met last Thursday for their orientation and gear check.  The next morning they went straight to the mountain.  Their first camps were above Paradise and they used the terrain for training, getting everyone up to speed on cramponing, glacier travel and ice axe arrest skills.  Additional training took place as the group slowly ascended over the next few days.  Yesterday the team made the jump to Camp Muir.  After dinner and discussion about the climb ahead they crawled into sleeping bags for a few hours of rest.  With an alpine start the team left Camp Muir, they reached the summit after 6 hours of climbing, approaching the crater rim around 7 am.  After enjoying the views and photo ops from the summit the team is returning to Camp Muir.  Once back at Camp they will pack up and continue the final 4.5 miles back to Paradise.  Their program concludes today with a celebration once they return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!  We hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!