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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Conditions Turn Team on Summit Attempt

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,600'

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Due to high winds and snow the Mt.Rainier Summit Climb was unable to summit this morning. The team, led by RMI Guide Casey Grom, traveled to the Gap (10,600') on the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Their planned departure from Camp Muir is 10:00 a.m.
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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali! We didn't get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow's ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we'll be just fine. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jason,
Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!
~Knutsons

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Enjoys the View

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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June 13, 2016 - 7:09 pm PT After a big day caching at 16,400' on the rib we slept in this morning. Eventually folks started to rise and trickle into the kitchen where Steve was make breakfast burritos and fresh coffee, we relaxed, ate and drank our fill until around noon. Then we got geared up for a short walk over to the Edge of the World. Today was a perfect day for it with mostly clear skies and no wind. We spent an hour taking pictures and enjoying the view of the Alaska Range before heading back to camp. We did a little bit of fixed line and running belay training and then chilled for the afternoon. Tonight we will be exploring some exotic cuisine from India and sipping tea before bed. It is looking like the next couple of days will bring snow and high winds to the upper mountain so we will most likely have a couple more rest days at 14 before it breaks later in the week. The weather days are actually a blessing in disguise, it allows us to be fully rested and better acclimatize. Everyone is in good spirits and enjoying some down time. Thanks for following along with us, The Upper West Rib team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jim and Team,  Ry and I are following you everyday.  The pictures are absolutely amazing.  We’re excited to watch this story unfold.  Can’t wait to see you and hear the stories.

Mac & Ry

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/15/2016 at 9:14 am

Ben,

As I sit here suffering through shin splints from a 5 mile run, I can’t help but marvel at the undertaking you have taken on. May the force of a thousand Spartan’s guide your way safely and swiftly. This goes for Jim too (and the rest of the team of course). Keep at it bruh. We are all super proud and super stoked. We are beers ready, glittered up.

Posted by: Spiros Botos on 6/14/2016 at 7:19 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Celebrates on the Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a cold and windy morning. In addition to the weather, Leon reported great route conditions. The team will descend back to Camp Muir for their last night on the mountain. Today's climb also marked Leon Davis' 100th summit of Mt. Rainier. Way to climb, Leon! Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit 100% on Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. JJ reported cold, windy conditions on the summit. Despite the weather, 100% of the team reached the summit! The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing their descent to Paradise and on back to Ashford later today. Congratulations climbers!
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Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Fly to Talkeetna

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

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The Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Chase Nelson were able to fly off the Pika Glacier yesterday evening during a break in the weather. Despite the weather, the team had several great days of climbing including successful climbs of Lost Marsupial and the Middle Troll. Congratulations climbers!

Just got back out of the Alaska Range after a stellar trip to the Pika Glacier! One of the best alpine rock climbing venues I've ever had the pleasure of visiting. Here Greg and Will follow the splitter hand crack that leads right to the top, with the airstrip and camp visible 1,300 feet below. @rmiexpeditions @elias.the.spaniard #alpineclimbing #climbing #alaska #ak #climbmemories #rmiexpeditions

A photo posted by Chase Nelson (@chase__nelson) on

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Denali Expedition: Jones and Team Return to Talkeetna

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

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The May 24th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, and Blake Votilla flew off the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday and return to Talkeetna. According to Tyler, the team was planning to celebrate their climb at Talkeetna's Roadhouse. After 18 days of living in tents the team is happy to be back in the land of burgers, beer, showers, and mattresses. Congratulations climbers!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Welcome back, Bob. I hope you getting busy planning your next beautiful adventure on this wild planet. Cheers to you and the team!

Posted by: Emily Jenson on 6/14/2016 at 1:58 pm

Congratulations to all of you.. Very Cool and I am sure extremely GRATIFYING !!!

Posted by: Mary Anne Kyburz-Ladue on 6/13/2016 at 9:02 am

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Denali Expedition: Beren and Team Carry to Washburn’s Thumb

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 12, 2016 - 10:53 p.m. PDT We left camp with chilly toes and no one ahead of us. Pushing toward the fixed lines, we were treated to the sun at our first break. The sun (and uphill effort) warmed us up and soon we were steadily working up the fixed lines. It was a beautiful day and the team got their first taste of real altitude. We did fine and cached just below the impressive Washburn Thumb. The time spent on the West Buttress is the best climbing of the route and we had a perfect day to dance on the ridge. Now we are all set up for the next window in the weather to move higher. Tomorrow we will rest up to prepare our bodies for the next challenge. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team

On The Map

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Jake - wishing you all success and the best weather imaginable. Have been following your steady progress - and remembering what a great job you did leading our team back in the day. See you in the fall, if not before.

Posted by: Peter Rogers on 6/14/2016 at 6:59 am

Jason,
We continue to see the daunting, yet beautiful pictures. We look forward to hearing your stories of struggles and perseverance. The map continues to show you closer to the summit. Keep it up!

Posted by: Shawn Bernard on 6/13/2016 at 10:51 am

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Caches Gear at 16,400’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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June 12, 2016 - 10:50 p.m. PDT The Denali - Upper West Rib Team did a great job today. Blue sky and light wind graced us this morning, and despite a slower than desired departure out of camp everyone climbed really well. As soon as we stepped out of camp we sank up to our knees. This was the first day we got off the beaten path and made our own trail up to the Upper West Rib. Unfortunately with all the new snow fall in the last couple weeks breaking trail was difficult and energy expensive. Despite this added challenge the team did a great job and we worked our way up to the West Rib at 16,400'. We cached a couple days of food and fuel here and began our descent as the clouds started to roll over the ridge. We're all tired after a high output day but happy with our accomplishments. The weather forecast is calling for a storm approaching tomorrow and lasting a couple days so we will rest and prep for our summit rotation. Thanks for all the support out there! RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib Team
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Dubay, you missed a great summit in Baltimore last week for an even better summit. Good fishing (of course Garrick’s boat caught all the fish), good food, good company. Be safe and enjoy. See you soon.

Posted by: Bill Pinkham on 6/14/2016 at 4:42 am

Amazing photos. Lots of thoughts for you all from down here in WA! Happy climbing!

Posted by: Korinne on 6/13/2016 at 2:55 pm

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