Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Back Carry to 13,500’

June 28, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 27th, 2013 We woke to a beautiful clear morning at 14,000 feet on Mt. McKinley. After a big breakfast, we headed over to the Stanford medical research tent to take part in their hydration/oxygen saturation study. Each person had six minutes to walk as many laps of a set course as they could, and then oxygen saturation was measured before and after. Needless to say, things got competitive. After nap time, we headed back to our cache at 13,500', and retrieved all of our food and gear. It was a short jaunt, and a great chance to stretch our legs. On deck for tomorrow is a rest day with fixed line practice and some wall building! We'll be in touch. Cheers, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, et al

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Tommy, I just wanted to say “hi”, and I miss you,,,,,
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 6/28/2013 at 7:54 pm

Hi Daddy….Did you find the Yeti yet?
Good luck the rest of the way!
Love Maya

Hola Guapo,
I guess the altitude is going to get sharp fast;it appears that you a very close to the top by the map! We are so excited for you!
I hope you did well with the laps! I’m curious to hear how you finished in that scenario.
It’s been raining for two days…we have been napping a lot too!
Animals are all great!
Miss you!
Guapa

Posted by: marion and maya on 6/28/2013 at 9:41 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier

June 28, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday, June 28th, 2013 We enjoyed a final, but ample breakfast at the Roadhouse and then hurried out to the airstrip to get ready for flying. Sure enough, conditions were favorable and so we loaded up in two big and beautiful K2 Aviation ski-equipped Otters. There was some smoke in the skies from forest fires and a little cloud as well, but we had magnificent views of forests, rivers, lakes... and then eventually of nothing but gargantuan mountains and glaciers. Our pilots, Randy and Jeff, had us into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and safely landed by 9:00 AM. After unloading and a few handshakes, they were off and we were left in our breathtakingly beautiful new home. We set to building camp and then spent a lazy afternoon reviewing rope techniques and getting set for glacier travel. We ate an early dinner under the intense Alaskan summer sun, did a few more last chores and then turned in. It was good to touch base, via radio, with the other RMI teams on the mountain and to feel like we'll soon be joining in the fun. The plan is to be up at 1 AM if the weather stays fine and we'll hope to be on the march a few hours later. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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The Christofferson family is sending our best to Anders and the rest of the team. We love all the pictures and updates! Looking forward to hearing how you are all doing after carrying all those heavy loads “on your march” today!

Posted by: Judy Christofferson on 6/28/2013 at 5:51 pm

Hahn Team
To Mike & Max - we are grateful to be able to follow you on this blog and will enjoy watching your adventures. Thinking of you and wishing you good weather and a safe climb.
Bill & Caryl Reese

Posted by: Bill & Caryl Reese on 6/28/2013 at 11:48 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter & Team Summit Cotopaxi!

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 19,348'

Our team is back in Quito, safe and sound after a successful and challenging Cotopaxi summit today. The weather looked perfect when we woke before midnight but that didn't last long, as a storm began to brew as we were climbing. Most of the climb, we were in the clouds with light precipitation and moderate winds. It never got bad enough to turn around; instead, it just made our climbing harder. We didn't need any help making the route harder, as we encountered ladders spanning crevasses, steep slopes, and open crevasses, in addition to the extreme altitude that is always present on Cotopaxi. All in all, we had a fun and safe climb. We were climbing for more than 12 hours, so we're all bushed. Hopefully showers and a quick nap will rejuvenate everyone so that we can enjoy our celebration dinner tonight in Quito. It's been great spending the past 10 days in Ecuador with our team. We enjoyed a ton of different activities, both cultural and adventurous. Thanks team, for being an integral part of a great trip. Hasta la próxima montaña, Adios. ...stay tuned for the Cotopaxi Express trip's blog, starting this weekend! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Looks intense! Awesome job guys!

Posted by: Kim on 6/28/2013 at 8:13 am

Congrats!! Look at that snow!

Posted by: Jan on 6/27/2013 at 6:05 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 27th Update

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Ed Viesturs, Peter Whittaker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Andres Marin and the Viesturs/Whittaker Climb led by Ed Viesturs & Peter Whittaker were unable to summit Mt. Rainier today due to high winds and poor visibility. The teams began their descent from Camp Muir around 7:30 a.m. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent will be returning to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Weather and route conditions prevented the team from reaching the summit yesterday. Their team spent four days on the mountain expedition style climbing and learning new skills. We look forward to meeting the groups in Ashford later this morning.

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Not sure if this is the team with our fearless leader CPK. We are all here back at home base, “ST Francis” in CT rooting you all on!! Be safe! So proud!

Posted by: Michelle Carrier on 6/28/2013 at 7:31 pm

Good luck on your summit. Go Dave, Mark, Sam, and Carl!!

Posted by: Eric Olson on 6/28/2013 at 7:47 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Turn Below the Summit

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,000'

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 We woke up around 7:30 with clear skies and no winds. We set off towards the summit with all of the crew feeling great. We experienced a little bit of wind and clouds at Denali Pass, but that is pretty normal. The climb was going smoothly and the weather was about as perfect as you can get. We were about 150 feet below the summit ridge when the clouds came in and blocked out our sun. All of a sudden we heard a crack of thunder and all of the metal around us began to buzz. We hightailed it down to a depression in a feature called the football field where things seemed to be calm. By calm, I mean a whiteout snowstorm came out of nowhere! We hunkered down and waited to see if things would settle down. When we were certain they would not, we worked our way down the mountain with GPS and some wands that mark the trail. After a fourteen hour climbing day, our whole team is back in camp happy, healthy, and fed having come a few hundred feet short of the summit but without a permanent stutter from electrocution! Our plan is to rest tomorrow and perhaps give the summit another go in the next few days. We will see. Goodnight! RMI McKinley Summit Team 6

RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls in from 17 camp after their summit attempt.

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I’m shocked (seriously, no pun intended) to hear about the storm. SO close. You are all truly amazing and great to hear Mike’s voice. Cheering you on, thinking about you all, KAC.

Posted by: Kconstantine on 6/27/2013 at 8:02 pm

there will be an other opportunity am sure! glad you are all ok .rest well.lots of love to Lance

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/27/2013 at 5:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Get Ready in Talkeetna

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 The climbing team ate a hardy breakfast at The Talkeetna Roadhouse. We talked climbing and safety as we chewed bacon and swilled coffee. Our excellent meal prepared us for a giant day of packing and organizing to fly on to Denali. Longtime legendary NPS climbing ranger Roger Robinson gave our pre-climb briefing at the ranger station, after which we trooped on out to the K2 Aviation hangar to get into the nuts and bolts of getting our gear ready for the mountain. We worked through some unbelievably hot hours, checking tents, stoves, ropes, pots and clothes. Massive cumulonimbus clouds formed as the day went along and thunder boomed, but the storm never really hit Talkeetna. We enjoyed a great dinner together at the popular West Rib Pub and then turned in. All were intent on resting up from this big and busy day to be ready for a bigger and busier day tomorrow, hopefully one that gets us onto Denali. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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To Max and my Dad: Wanted to let you know that although the wifi here is limited, I’m still able to check up on the blog at least once a day. Thinking of you and wishing you the best! Have a safe climb!

Posted by: Ellie on 6/27/2013 at 12:26 pm

Dave Hahn and Team -

Sounds like that warm weather is still hanging around up there. I’ve followed some of the previous RMI teams and they were all hit with hot weather at some point during their climbs.

I bet the lower Kahiltna has opened up quite a bit and you will have a severe zig-zag path through that area.
Have a safe climb!

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/27/2013 at 8:07 am

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Mt. McKinley: Team Van Deventer Moves to 14,200’ Camp

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Hello all from 14k! We made our move up today to 14,200' Camp under sunny skies and calm conditions, and moved into a beautiful camp with tent platforms, walls, and kitchen already in place, just needing a bit of buffing out. We've been napping for the last couple of hours, and are about to cook up a big burrito dinner. The weather looks to be holding for the foreseeable future, so we're going to head back to our cache at 13,000' tomorrow and try to keep the forward momentum rolling. We'll touch base tomorrow! Cheers from the team, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and all

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Hola Guapo
Checking in to see how you are doing.It seems like you’ve been away for months already!
Its exciting to check in daily to see where you are….and you are getting closer!
Hope you enjoyed your burritos tonight…...we had a four-star dinner of Kraft Mac and cheese and succotash; you aren’t missing much!
missing you! STAY STRONG! YOU CAN DO IT!!!
xo Guapa and Maya

Posted by: marion and maya on 6/27/2013 at 9:04 pm

Tom, I hope your trip is going well. We’re all waiting for your triumphant return. As Rhonda said, we’re putting updates together for everyone following you and can’t wait to hear all about it. Stay safe, stay warm, and in Eric’s words “Think snow!”
Cheers

Posted by: Milo on 6/27/2013 at 5:36 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter’s Team Enjoys some R&R at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

We just enjoyed a much needed rest day at the Hacienda, Chilcabamba, a beautiful rural farmhouse/bed and breakfast situated just outside of Cotopaxi National Park. The serene location is perfect for relaxation and recuperation, in preparation for our summit attempt on Cotopaxi. We have enjoyed good views of Cotopaxi and our climbing route from Chilcabamba all day today. Tomorrow, we'll pack up and head to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi, at roughly 16,000'. An early alpine start on Thursday will see us ascending the steep, glaciated slopes of Cotopaxi, hopefully en route to a successful summit. We'll keep you abreast of our progress. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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For Jeff Oderman:

Your fan club here in SoCal is sending you lots of push energy for the next summit. Good luck on the ascent and lots of love from here. Kit, Art and Lynn

Posted by: Kit Spaulding on 6/28/2013 at 8:53 am

what an amazing trip! love the pics.

Posted by: Theresa Sparks on 6/27/2013 at 11:07 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 26th Update

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

Strong winds with gusts of 60 mph, new snow, and poor visibility kept our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos at Camp Muir today. After the teams have breakfast and pack up, they will begin their descent to Paradise.

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Not sure if this is the team with our fearless leader CPK. We are all here back at home base ST Francis in CT rooting you all on!! Be safe!

Posted by: Michelle Carrier on 6/28/2013 at 7:25 pm

Hello Lois, Nila and companions.
A thoughtful note since your at Camp Muir:
Everybody need beauty as well as bread, places to play and pray in, where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike. John Muir 1912
seems like your there, be safe, charlie

Posted by: charlie rizzo on 6/27/2013 at 7:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

June 26, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

The last RMI Denali team of the 2013 climbing season is in place in Talkeetna. All people (12) and all baggage (24 plus) made it to Anchorage without delay. We met at four in the afternoon and shortly thereafter we'd connected with Bill, our Denali Overland shuttle driver and we began the shuttle to Talkeetna. We got to feel the much discussed heat wave... It was hot. We took a short break in Wasilla, to take on final provisions, and then Bill took us up to Talkeetna town. Most elected to take it easy on this jet lagged evening, settling down to a comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. Work starts tomorrow. (And there will be pictures) Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Back Carry to 13,500’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter & Team Summit Cotopaxi!

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Mt. Rainier: June 27th Update

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Turn Below the Summit

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Get Ready in Talkeetna

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Team Van Deventer Moves to 14,200’ Camp

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter’s Team Enjoys some R&R at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 26th Update

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

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