Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt.McKinley: Beren and team fly onto Kahiltna Glacier

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

It doesn't always happen like this up here, but when you can fly out of Talkeetna at 9 am, just like you planned, it is a real sweet start to a trip. We landed on a warm glacier and spent the day settling into our new pace on the mountain. Building camp, rigging sleds, reviewing some techniques and most importantly checking out the views. It is stunning here and perfect weather for starting this adventure. If it holds we will wake up and head towards 7,800' camp at the base of Ski Hill tomorrow, testing our new knowledge and taking our first literal steps. Til then, RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and the gang.

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting Patiently

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Good things come to those who wait... At least that is what we must remind ourselves of. Another day of marginal weather had us scratching our heads about the possibility of a summit bid while other teams have had enough and are headed down. But with a fortified camp and a weeks worth of food and fuel, we plan to exercise patience and optimism. As storm days stack up, it is all too easy to let altitude and lethargy tear a person down. Exercise is the best remedy, and so this afternoon we climbed the first hour of the autobahn to stretch the legs and open the lungs. With new snow covering the route, we worked hard breaking new trail up to 17,700 feet, and the pickets that protect the steep slopes had to be dug out. To be sure when our time comes to go for the top, our team will be the most acclimated and best conditioned team at high camp. High and Mighty at 17K RMI Guides Okita, Davis & Mann

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Double A hope ypur not freezing your #$## off that would suck… Can’t believe you guys are hanging in there at 17k. Life at sea level is nice and warm but I’m sure the views and experience y’all are having is really special. Stay safe… Looking forward to good weather for you so you can achieve the summit, good luck too you and all your partners up there.

Posted by: mark on 6/8/2012 at 11:59 pm

“High and Mighty at 17K” is beautiful also in your realization of humility to circumstance—to your group, and specifically to Kristen who is the daughter of deepest friends and a young woman of deepest conviction, Godbless.

Posted by: Michael Rosen on 6/8/2012 at 5:10 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Enjoy Rest at 14,000’

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Today was our second day of sleeping in on the trip; it proved to be just as enjoyable as the first. Here in Ganet Basin at 14k, the looming upper mountain of Denali blocks the sun from hitting camp until mid morning. Our group stayed in sleeping bags until the sun's first rays hit our tents. This place is like a desert, when the sun is behind the mountain it's freezing and when the sun is out, it's miserably hot. Once we were up, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast that lasted nearly until lunch. Here at 14 camp, we are situated in the outskirts of a village of tents. While we are content resting in the shade, others are not. People can be seen and heard at nearly all hours of the day. We see snowball fights as well as people playing hacky-sack and making elaborate castles of snow blocks. High winds and low visibility have plagued the upper mountain for the last few days, keeping many teams from moving uphill. The result is a large group of restless people around camp. While others sit crossing their fingers and rationing food, we are sitting pretty. Because our team has moved efficiently thus far, we are simply enjoying the rest, acclimatizing and getting stronger every day. We are in a great position and look forward to carrying to 17k when we get a chance. We remain optimistic that the weather and wind on the upper mountain will subside. The team says hello to all our friends and family following along on the blog. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Chris and friends I am sure you are enjoying the expiriance up there as always. Best wishes for good weather ahead and safe climbing, mean while enjoy the
rest. Good job with the updates Tyler.
Thank you

Posted by: voula likourgiotis on 6/8/2012 at 6:42 pm

Thank you so much for the updates Tyler!
Go Nicolas Go!
Hope you are all having a wonderful time.
Keep safe.

Posted by: Louise on 6/8/2012 at 11:57 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Seth Waterfall, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 9,200'

Seth here, checking in from inside my tent. We're currently dug in at 9,200 feet at a spot we call "The Castle." We've had a rough spell of weather on this trip with mostly white out conditions but the group is still having a good time. Yesterday we had good weather for a bit while we climbed up to our camp but over night a big storm came in and now we are just waiting it out in the safety of camp. Tomorrow we will make our way back to civilization.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to Go John, We are sooo proud…hope you didn’t loose your hat in those white outs! It’s 84 and sunny here in MB..you’re next stomping ground..can’t wait to see you and hear all about it. Love you partner. Dr. Missy

Posted by: Melissa Patton on 6/9/2012 at 5:14 am

Hey Mr. Boicourt get tot he top already Rif meeting starts in an hour, plus George misses you!

By the looks of that weather you should have listened to me and done the Robert Trent Jone golf trail. we would be on about Bottle 10 of Goose and Juice…

great job and see ya soon…

Posted by: Chris Colangelo on 6/8/2012 at 6:13 am

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Mt Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Technical Training at Muir

June 7, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

Today we are training at Camp Muir. The weather is not cooperating with our training, but we are having fun teaching and using advanced techniques for our very advanced clientele. It is very winter like here at Camp Muir a lot of snow and a lot of wind. Our last session will be navigation, and that will come in handy tomorrow getting down the Muir Snowfield. JJ, Dan & the Expedition Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Guys had a great time, so much so I’m booking for Mexico. I want to make sure JJ brings the fat finger ascender just for me…

Posted by: Louis on 6/11/2012 at 2:31 pm

We had a fantastic time learning mountaineering skills and hanging out in the hut at Camp Muir. What a great group of clients and guides! Thanks to JJ, Dan, Tim, Katey, and Alex for teaching us so much. You took a newbie and got me well started on a great obsess,er,uh, hobby! Thanks to Nick for suggesting the trip, and every body for keeping it fun. I hope Zeek’s goose grows her feathers back in time for the next trip!

Posted by: Jim on 6/10/2012 at 3:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Make Home Improvements

June 7, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Lindsay Mann, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

This morning we woke up to clear skies and beautiful views. Unfortunately, as we sipped on our morning coffee the clouds began to grow and the wind picked up. Today was not our summit day, instead we got the team moving around and doing more home improvements. I can positively say that RMI Okita has the best looking camp at 17. Today's renovations included lowering the floor of the posh ( or cook tent) and revamping the kitchen scene. After these improvements were made everyone enjoyed some reading and napping before a delicious dinner of tortellini served with a cream garlic sauce and sun dried tomatoes. The conversation was flowing over dinner, with stories of bike racing, pets, hunting and books. Again we are optimistic about tomorrow's weather, which is calling for a high pressure system to move in. Wishing the wind away, RMI Guides Lindsay, Leon, Brent and team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tomorrow will be day! Power to the TEAM!

Posted by: phil usher on 6/7/2012 at 3:13 pm

Kristen & team - 265 Highpointers at the convention in Mt Hood this weekend are watching your progress.

Posted by: john mitchler on 6/7/2012 at 9:39 am

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Mt. Rainier - Expedition Skills Seminar Works on Crevasse Rescue

June 6, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides J.J. Justman and Dan Windham climbed to 11,500' feet this morning and spent several hours working on their crevasse rescue techniques. They will continue their training tomorrow and hope to make a summit attempt if conditions allow.

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Move to 14,000 Camp

June 6, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

This morning we awoke to mostly clear skies, calm winds,and great climbing temps. Bagels and bacon filled our tanks for an early breakfast. We loaded our packs with our camp and started the 3,000 foot climb back to our cache at 14,000'. The team climbed in better style than ever, cutting 15 minutes off our previous time to the 14,000' Advanced Base Camp (ABC). The guides have some very tasty food in store for the next few meals as we rest, rehydrate, acclimate, and create tighter bonds with our new climbing partners. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

“Go daddy go”, says Team Snyder back in Texas!

Posted by: Julie Snyder on 6/7/2012 at 6:04 pm

Good breakfast good team and good guide, and your faith is an importand tool to get higher safely.
We are proud of you, go team go.
Thank you for the reports Tyler.God bless.

Posted by: voula likourgiotis on 6/7/2012 at 3:19 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

June 6, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Greetings from Talkeetna AK! Our team made it in last night/early this morning with all gear accounted for and we enjoyed a good night's rest in Talkeetna. This morning it was business as usual, big breakfasts at the Roadhouse, a NPS orientation and a lot of sorting gear in the K2 hangar. Now we are checking tents, stoves and group gear before a big feast tonight. With any luck we will fly out tomorrow morning. Til then, RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ciao Eric, Thinking of you and praying for good weather and a safe trip. We are very proud of you and all the hard work it took to get you where you are today. Can’t wait to see you to share stories. Amore from Mom and Dad

Posted by: Tom and Kathy Schafer on 6/16/2012 at 11:15 pm

Wow- thats impressive progress. Also - potluck? I thought this was supposed to be hard! You should be relaying stories of extreme hardship and grit!
You guys are awesome.
All the best.

K - Uma came back Malaysia and we had a hurricane at home…till the home was in order and to her spec. :-)

Posted by: AK on 6/12/2012 at 7:03 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Build Throne at 17,200’

June 6, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

No. I'm afraid there were no royal celebrations of summit success for us today as we began the morning getting up with guarded optimism that the clouds and wind above us would dissipate just enough to allow us to get in a summit bid. But that did not happen, and instead we retreated back to our tents after prolonging our time over breakfast in the Posh. Unfortunately the clouds descended and eventually we were enveloped in wind and snow that just took some of the energy and motivation we needed to work on camp. So, instead we spent a restful morning in our tents, snug and warm from the elements just beyond the thin nylon fabric we rely so vitally on for our comfort and survival. What do we actually do during these times while waiting for the weather to improve? Of course, reading, listening to music, playing games all come to mind, but simply catching up on sleep is huge. With winds buffeting our tents during the night, coupled with the excitement and anxiety that affects us all before a possible summit day, we can all use the downtime. In fact, it's the climber that deals with this forced inactivity well that tends to be the better climber. A capacity for patience is a hallmark of good expedition climbers. But, I never thought that spending an entire day in the old fart sack helped you out much in terms of adjusting to the altitude, so when we got a nice break in the weather we went out and built the nicest bathroom on the mountain, walled and roofed, and ready for whatever the mountain throws at us. At least we'll take comfort knowing that, when that inevitable time comes, we'll be able to answer that call without sheets of wind blown snow covering our clothes and all too vulnerably exposed parts of our anatomy. As for tomorrow, though the forecast calls for high winds what I'm seeing right now makes me think we have a chance. The winds have calmed and it's sunny and beautiful, with simply gorgeous views of the Alaska Range from our perch here just below the summit of the tallest peak in North America. And now, some closing words from the poet laureate of the arctic, our own Lindsay Mann: At 17 we stay Wishing the wind away Cutting blocks and sawing snow People see out camp and say wow! A ceiling for our bathroom was done To give us privacy from everyone Stories over dinner we share cause team morale is still there Hoping to get the summit As soon as these winds plummet But for now we sit tight And wish for a beautiful night Good night from Brent Okita, Leon and Lindsay

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt.McKinley: Beren and team fly onto Kahiltna Glacier

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting Patiently

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Enjoy Rest at 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz

Mt Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Technical Training at Muir

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Make Home Improvements

On The Map

Mt. Rainier - Expedition Skills Seminar Works on Crevasse Rescue

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Move to 14,000 Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Build Throne at 17,200’

On The Map

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