Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Hello again from team Aconcagua. Sorry it has been awhile but the last few days have been very busy on our end. Now that we are back in Mendoza sipping red wine and eating great beef we can fill you in on the mountain adventures.
Last Thursday, the 19th, we moved from our Camp 2 at 18,000' to Camp Colera (meaning: anger) at 19,600'. It was a short move under beautifully clear skies, but we were tired nonetheless from the thin air. We set camp, ate dinner early, and prepared for the early start of our summit push.
The stoves were kicked on early at 3 am to start the long process of boiling water for breakfast at altitude (I believe we are picking up a theme: the length of time it takes to do anything at high altitude is very, very long). We had a beautiful, warm, calm morning for the culmination of our goal. The moon was a sliver, but showing at the bottom, like a saucer, rather than the side as we usually see it in the northern hemisphere. At 5 am, bags were packed with food, water, and extra clothes and storm gear for our day. Crampons were on our feet, and we began the ascent from camp under the light of headlamps, wearing our parkas.
There were many groups headed for the summit with us since the weather was supposed to get worse the following day and for several days after. Many groups, like us, had moved their schedule up in order to take advantage of the end of our weather window. The climb travels many switchbacks up a series of benches to our second break at the Independencia Hut, elevation: 21,000 ft. As we reached it, streams of headlamps from fellow climbers stretched below us. Taking a break here, we refueled our bodies with hot cocoa and alfajors, an Argentine treat. As the horizon began to show signs of light, we started the long traverse to the base of the Canaleta, which is a large snow couloir that takes you to the summit. Despite the thin air and tired legs, the team was feeling strong as we climbed the last couple of hours and last 1,000 ft to the summit. It was 1:40pm as the last of our boots stepped onto the top of the tallest mountain in the western hemisphere. We celebrated together with hugs and cheers and relished in the moment for what we had just accomplished. Although we could have stayed on top for hours, the clouds and snow were rolling in and forcing us to start the long descent back to our camp and our sleeping bags.
We arrived back at camp at 4:30pm, just as the wind was starting to pick up and our bodies were starting to fully tire. Everyone quickly jumped into their sleeping bags and enjoyed an evening of ramen noodles and an early bedtime. The next morning we woke with sore legs and headaches from dehydration, but everyone was ready for another long descent back to base camp. We broke down camp and at 11am we headed back to Camp 2 and eventually Camp 1 to pick up both personal and group gear that we had cached days before. This is the worst part of any expedition, since our packs get heavier with each previous camp we visit. As we left camp 1 to make the last push down to base camp, our packs were weighing upwards of 25 kilos. We walked into base camp at 4:45pm with huge smiles on our faces and were greeted with tang and fresh fruit from the Grajales crew. As we chatted and laughed about where we had just been the previous day, we realized that the hardest and most dangerous part of our trip was over and we had all made it down safely. We feasted on steak and papas fritas that night and toasted to our 14 days on the mountain. We slept well that night with full bellies and happy hearts, resting up for the 21 mile walk out of the valley and back to the entrance of the provincial park.
Fourteen days doesn't seem like that long a time, but Sunday we realized how deprived of color we had been, as we walked past brilliant green and yellow clumps of flowers descending the Relinchos valley towards home. Our packs were light and birds were singing nearby, making our steps light and quick. As the day wore on however, our steps slowed as the 15 miles we had to walk that day ticked past. An exciting river crossing of the Vacas river found many of the group in their skiveys, wading through thigh deep glacial waters. The late afternoon temps made the cool water dip welcome however. The last few miles were a long affair, but we arrived in camp to the smell of the arrearos cooking us a feast of an asada. One pound of slow cooked steak per person, tomato salad, fresh baked bread, and local malbec wine sent everyone to bed with full stomachs and a beautiful, uninterrupted view of the stars. Most chose to sleep outside of the tents, for views of the southern cross, and beyond!
Six miles of walking the next morning brought us to Punta de Vacas and the end of our walking! Everyone piled into the van for a tired drive to Mendoza. Showers, and shaves brought everyone back to life, and Monday night the group enjoyed a celebratory dinner at the "patio," a local parilla (Brazilian style steak house but Argentinian!). The group dreamed up a wonderful way to commemorate the climb: a locally published coffee table book of Aconcagua that each signed to everyone else, so that we'll remember the faces, friendships, experiences, and stories that we have grown over the last three weeks.
The guides would like to thank an incredible team of climbers for their dedication, strength, perseverance, and laughter. Gabi's 25th was a special one. And further, the team would like to thank everyone for their notes, thoughts, and positive vibes while we were headed to the highest point in the western hemisphere!
Goodnight and good luck,
The RMI Aconcagua Crew
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral called with great news that our team reached the summit of Aconcagua!
They stood on top at 2 pm (Argentinian time) and are back at high camp happy, healthy, and contently tired. After dinner and a good night's sleep, the team will descend to base camp tomorrow.
Congratulations to RMI Guides Gabriel Barral, Pete Van Deventer, Gilbert Chase and Team!
On The Map
Strong work! Congrats to The Team and our main man Larry. Get back safely. The Shasta “Guys”.
Posted by: Tom F. on 1/26/2012 at 11:49 am
Larry,
Hope all continues to go well. It’s terrific!
Holly
Posted by: holly seaton on 1/24/2012 at 8:59 am
After our hailstorm approach and the lightning storms visible on the horizon, no one on our team really had a lock on how the day would turn out. When we started breaking trail at midnight and the stars quickly disappeared, everyone crossed their fingers that Cotopaxi would let us stand on top. Luckily fortune smiled on us and we managed to find our way through some quickly changing glacial conditions with plenty of new snow to go with. The higher we climbed, the clearer it got and this team did a great job climbing smart and safe on this tough mountain and we all returned healthy and happy, albeit with the weirdest facial tanning we've seen. Thanks for a great trip with an awesome team.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
We are at High Camp (Piedras Blancas) and getting ready for our summit bid. We will leave early in the morning for an alpine start and climb out of camp to join the Ruta Normal. A gradual traverse along the mountain's northwest flank takes us to the base of the Canaleta, a 1,000' long couloir leading to the summit ridge. Upon reaching the top of the Canaleta, a straightforward traverse leads to the Aconcagua summit.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral
On The Map
Bryan, So glad to hear about your climb!!! We are sooooooo proud of you ‘warrior!’ Also, glad you and your team are having a great time! Can’t wait to see you and ‘celebrate!’ Love mommy and daddy
Posted by: Connie Blalock on 1/21/2012 at 1:09 pm
Bryan, So glad to hear about your climb!!! Also, glad you and your team are having a great time! Can’t wait to see you and ‘celebrate!’ Love mommy and daddy
Posted by: Connie Blalock on 1/21/2012 at 1:07 pm
Hi there,
We woke up this morning at Camp 1 with high winds, and big plumes of spin drift on the saddle above us, so we decided to stay here for one more day. Our current plan, based on the short good weather window that the forecast has given us, is to move to camp 2 tomorrow, the next day move to Camp 3 and the next day go for the summit!
The group is very excited about the new plan after having been inside the tents for the last 48 hours. The winds at this moment have started to slow down, so it looks like the forecast is right.
We will check in tomorrow from Camp 2.
Gabi, Pete, Gilbert and the Aconcagua team
On The Map
Jeff,
Sounds like its on like Donkey Kong!
Go get and get it man.
Love you,
Bro
Posted by: Chad Johnson on 1/20/2012 at 9:49 am
Wow, Jeff, moving right along!! I got butterflies when I read the agenda, I know you will do well, take care & stay calm, take in each moment, we all look forward to your stories. Luv to you, mum
Posted by: Norene on 1/17/2012 at 7:25 pm
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Things didn't look all that promising when the team woke up this morning. The clear skies we lit the stoves under were gone and we were solidly in a thick cloud. Often when climbing you have to go check it out and at the end of our first hour Cayambe was entirely visible. A waning half moon illuminated the upper mountain and the snow was perfect cramponing. With barely a breeze, you couldn't ask for a better day to climb. The team worked hard today, earning the top in great style and enjoying the views of the other Ecuadorian volcanoes poking out of the clouds. We could even see Cotopaxi, our next objective.
Good job everyone and enjoy tomorrow's rest.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Felicidades!! Me alegro que lo hayan disfrutado!!
Posted by: Marisol Ferández on 1/17/2012 at 9:33 am
Helloooo everybody,
The team has been very busy today here at Camp 1. It's hard work napping for several hours, eating as much prosciutto and cheese as we can, and making sure to stay hydrated to boot. Games of cards, iPods, and chit chat fill in our spare time. All of this work is necessary however for our success on the upper mountain. Tomorrow will see us move to a new camp at 18,000', and we'll start the acclimatization cycle over again.
The weather has been pretty sunny today with clouds here and there, but our fresh breeze that began last night has encouraged the group to remain in tents for much of the day. We are looking forward to a scrumptious dinner of tortellini, and a good night of sleep. For those that are wondering, cooler temps and the breeze today have resolved our aquatic camping problem, turning our aquarium into a rather exciting skating rink.
Abrazos from Argentina,
RMI Guides Pete, Gilbert, Gabi, and the Aconcagua double A hockey team
On The Map
Hi Jeff, Thanks for sending the snow!! We have snow coming down this a.m. yeh, hope you are staying warm & breathing is getting easier. I feel like I’m climbing w/you when I read the blog, pics are great to see. Luv to you, live it love it, keep going, mum
Posted by: Norene on 1/17/2012 at 8:00 am
Good morning, this is Jake Beren and the RMI Ecuador team standing on top of Cayambe. Everybody did super well today. We had a beautiful day to climb and now we are perched pretty high above the clouds surrounded by some pretty large volcanoes. It was just about as good today as I have ever seen out here. It was a real pleasure to be here with such a good team. So, I guess that’s it. I'll be in touch when we get further down.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Cayambe.
Hello again from Camp 1 on Aconcagua. We had a successful carry to Camp 2 today. It was very busy leaving camp this morning, about 60 climbers heading up. The weather was great, sunny and warm with a fresh breeze. We got 4 inches of snow last night, so the mountain is beautiful right now. The whole crew did great on the carry today. Camp 2 at 18,000' was a new high point for a lot of folks. We are now back at Camp 1 resting and diverting a fast flowing river that is trying to submerge our tents. We are resting tomorrow before we move higher on the mountain. Hope this dispatch finds everyone doing well and enjoying the new year.
You'll will be hearing from us soon,
The Aconcagua team
Proof that Wally is the most thoughtful man on earth; he asked Bryan,(who unfortunately had to cut his climb short due to asthma) to send me an e-mail letting me know “he is in good shape, and has already made it to 19,000 feet. Waltor is an awesome man, he has made this trip soooo enriching. Dont worry about him”. The Wally Glover fan club can now breath a little easier! Thanks Bryan!
Posted by: Lori on 1/17/2012 at 10:47 am
ANNE GILBERT,
HI, BEAUTIFUL PICTURES….ENJOY AND STAY SAFE.
LOVE YOU,MOM
Posted by: CHRIS CHASE on 1/16/2012 at 11:37 am
Our team woke to a beautiful morning after our first night at 15,300' Refugio Cayambe. Inspiring views of the glaciers and rugged landscape made our day of mountaineering skills amazing. The team is strong and we're all looking forward to a great summit day. We're hoping for good weather and climbing conditions as we make our summit push tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Previous Page
Next Page
Way to go Wally Glover and the rest of the team!
Dan in Indy.
Posted by: Dan Meno on 1/27/2012 at 3:31 pm
Can’t wait to hear all about this adventure Tom. From all accounts (including the bloggers reporting) you had a wonderful time and share an experience only a limited few understand. What a memory! Safe journey home tommorow and Saturday.
Love Mom and Dad
Posted by: Daisy on 1/26/2012 at 1:51 pm
View All Comments