Hello from 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. Our team is wishing all moms a Happy Mother's Day. We're having a nice rest day in a little bit of a storm. Our tents are nice and toasty though and we'll be all set to carry a load to 13,500' tomorrow if the weather allows.
Yesterday we left off with the group of Dave, Linden and Sara "hunkerin' down" at Camp I for the night, and, given what happened last night, we are sure glad that they did.
Our climbing team was hit by huge winds last night at Camp I. In fact, the entire mountain (all the camps) was blasted with extremely high winds and frigid cold. Many tents were lost in the upper camps. Our team survived the night by 1) checking and re-checking the tents to make sure they were secure, 2) eating a big freezed-dried meal for dinner, and then 3) diving into their extremely warm sleeping bags.
Sara, who was sleeping in her own tent, radioed me this morning after the winds subsided and said that she sure missed me last night because a couple of times she thought that the tent was going to blow away, and my extra weight would have been helpful. So, to be clear, my daughter missed me for my weight. So touching.
After the sun came up the winds died down considerably and the team was able to move from Camp I to Camp II by noon today. Before leaving Camp I they took down the two tents and stuffed them in duffel bags and stored them away (just in case another big "blow" comes along).
The entire team is healthy and happy resting at Camp 2 for a big day tomorrow. Assuming the weather cooperates, the team is going to move up to Camp 3 to sleep. Their sleep at Camp 3 will be assisted by bottled
oxygen. Then on Tuesday (the 10th) they are going to wake up and walk up toward Camp IV using oxygen, and then return all the way down to Camp 2. The goal is for the team to be back at Base Camp on the 11th, and to beready for a summit bid starting May 18th.
Bill M
SARA my sweet little baby!!! Katherine and I were just flipping through your pictures and we miss you so much!! We can’t wait to see you and I want you to tell me everything about your trip!! Be safe and have fun, love you!
Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/11/2011 at 5:38 am
SARA!!!!!!!!!! you are doing awesome! I am so proud of you!!!!! I think about you everyday. I can not wait till the summer so we can rewatch all of the seasons of laguna beach! Atlanta is pretty boring besides the fact that exams are coming up and everyone has a ton of work. I know these past week have been an incredible experience and a lot of hard work. Keep it up and everyone is praying for you everyday. I know you can do it!!!! get this mountain DUNZO, so I can see you!! I have already said this but I miss you so much, and you are truly amazing. Cant wait to see you soon, you little mountain climber.
We're at 11,200 feet! The camp is quite the scene as there are at least 6 nationalities represented. The weather today was stellar and we moved smoothly into camp. We're all set up for a few days here, and tomorrow we plan to take a well deserved rest day.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Today Dave Hahn, Linden Mallory and Sara McGahan woke up at 4:30 a.m. for a 5 a.m. departure for Camp 1. After a hearty breakfast of rice pudding (not a huge fan, but Linden and Dave are) cheese omlettes, toast and Lucky Charms (Sara always has the Lucky Charms) the team paid its respects' at our camp's Stupa before departing. How they paid their respects was by circling the Stupa in a clockwise rotation on their way out, and taking a moment at the front of the Stupa (which faces the ice fall) to pause/reflect/pray, and to also breathe in the burning juniper that had been lit.
On a lighter note, the team also took a moment to each throw a horseshoe while walking out. No ringers or leaner's were recorded (not even close).
The walk up the icefall began as the sun was beginning its rise over Everest and Lhotse. The trail has gone through some changes over the past week as the Khumbu Icefall continues its movements. The team encountered several new challenges, including one spot in which a crevasse had opened up. There was no ladder around, so the team had to jump over the gap. Sara broke out her skills from junior high field day and long jumped over a crevasse. Well done. And some people say that they never learn meaningful skills in school!
The team was able to make it up to Camp 1 just before 10 am. Dave reported that it is very quiet at Camp 1. Hardly any people at all. It seems that most of the teams are now down at Base Camp beginning to rest for their summit pushes over the next few weeks. Our team spent most of the afternoon resting and napping, which, of course, is one of our teams' strengths!
Three other members of our climbing team - Tsering Dorje, Dawa, Yubarj and Kaji (all except Lam Babu) - climbed to Camp 2 today with our South Col equipment, including oxygen tanks, masks, and regulators. This gear will be used by the entire team when they arrive at Camp 3 in a few days. They will be breathing oxygen at night and wearing the masks during their climb up toward the Col the following day. The grand plan is to return to Base Camp on the 11th and then rest for a week. If everything goes well, we hope for a summit bid to start around the 18th.
Life at Base Camp continues. Today our neighbor Hamid, who is from Iran, came over with some written questions for Sara. Hamid is involved with a Children's Hospital that treats kids with Cancer. He is climbing to benefit the charity. He requested that Sara answer some questions (which are questions like "how did you get into climbing?" etc..) so that they can publish an article in their hospital newsletter. He also invited Sara to Iran to visit this summer. He is extremely nice (and has a daughter the same age as Sara) and he is VERY impressed with Sara.
So, in summary, the goals of the day (Camp 1, Camp 2, etc...) were all accomplished, and everyone feels well. As we say in Georgia, we are hunkerin' down for a cold night and we will be up an at 'em early tomorrow.
Bill M.
Sayyyyyy!!! SOOO PROUD OF YOU FOR BEATING YOUR RECORD, THATS CRAZYYY!!! I’m so happy to hear your doing well and each person that blogs about ya’lls trek gives the impression that your just rocking it, not even phased by the huge mountain your defeating!!! “HOOSERS” said heard you were going up again today & that made me soo happy cause I know your doing amazing! Sounds like your doing a great job avoiding the weather thank goodness! And I actually cant wait to hear about all the cool things you’ve gotten to see, like did you get to see an avalanche?!?! Also, I’ve decided when you come home not only are we gonna have to throw amazingly fun parties for you, but im gonna make it my business to ensure you have the greatest food supply ever!! Reading your food each day makes me wish so badly i could just send you cookies or something because (i know this is lame) im even proud of you for being able to eat the meals you’re given without even letting it bother you! Basically everything you’re doing im just astounded by and am eagerly waiting to hear more about your trip!!! Hahahah laughed when i heard you were taking a lot of naps because sense spring break im addicted! Also, please be a little more studly…jumping over crevasses? COULDN’T BE COOLER!!!! And continuing the theme that your impressing and inspiring everyone who reads this blog and knows you, if you get the article in the children’s hospital newspaper pleaseeeee bring it back to atlanta so everyone can read it! Not only are you encouraging your friends and family, your journey goes far beyond that to inspire kids in Iran! Truly Sara, your a hero! I love and miss you sooo much and continue to be amazed by your hard work and perseverance even without your dad! Tell your team that they have our prayers and that everyone is pulling for ya’ll! <3 Kmy
Posted by: katherine on 5/8/2011 at 9:05 am
GO Sara GO!!!! Thanks Bill for all the news! We are all pulling for the team!
The Boys Lax Cats beat St. Pius last night 13-7 in an upset. Chris Reagan played awesome defense. Michael Thomas and Jimbo Izlar were on fire! Varsity Girls Lax beat Blessed Trinity this afternoon soundly. It was 13-3 when I left. Baley Pope and Anna Jump and Taylor Kaplan and Eve Knapp were leading scorers. Ansley Walker played amazing! Tell Sara that Taylor Bremer and Caroline Heys had lots of playing time.
Boys Varsity Soccer won tonight away in a playoff game and the Girls Varsity Soccer won last night down near Savannah. Varsity Baseball lost today. Boys Varsity Tennis WON State today! Banner day for Westminster Sports!!!
The Ensemble Concert was tonight with Womens and Mens A Cappella. Gracie had a solo!
Hugs to all from the Caswell Family! XOXOX Nancy
Yesterday we flew in to Kahiltna Base Camp to start our climb. The weather was beautiful, and everyone enjoyed the spectacular flight from Talkeetna; flying over the tundra and then into the Alaska Range; seeing the extensive span of mountains, with the dominating presence of Hunter, Foraker, and our objective, Denali; passing the Pika and the Ruth Glaciers then over the Kahiltna and landing on the glacier. We arrived at Base Camp early, and took advantage of the good weather to pack our equipment and move to Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill.
Today we moved up to Camp 2 pulling our sleds loaded down with equipment, food and fuel for the next couple of weeks. The conditions have been great for traveling and the weather cooperative. Some clouds moved in this afternoon and very light snow started as we got to camp. The forecast looks good, with some light snow tonight and tomorrow; we should be able to get to Camp 3 (11,200') tomorrow.
Everyone is doing well. We'll be in touch again soon.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
A big hello from Chicago! Please tell Jeff that we are all so proud of him and can’t wait to hear more updates. I saw your mom, Alyssa and family yesterday and they send their best. Bulls series is tied now 2-2, we lost tonight. Lakers lost in 4 to Dallas. Miss you and thinking of you always.
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/8/2011 at 7:42 pm
Hi Dave I will try to keep all the UPS drivers updated on your insane journey. Be careful
Today we moved to 9,300' on Mt. McKinley. We had great weather on the trail. As we reached the top of Ski Hill it started to snow so we set up camp and hunkered in for the evening. We are all settled in and are resting for another great day tomorrow.
We will keep you posted on our progress.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
As I prepare myself for this last rotation up the mountain, I know I will be faced with huge challenges. For one, climbing up to stay at Camp 3 in three days will be physically exhausting, but for the first time in my life I will be climbing without the support of my dad. Although I respect and admire his decision, and I know it was the right one for both him and the team, I am really bummed he won’t be up there with us. It will be the hardest for me when the times are tough, and not having him there mentally will take a huge toll on me.
But I am excited about the next rotation, and about a chance at a summit bid. As hard as these next three weeks will be, I know that I will give it my all and I’ll be back home in just a matter of weeks. So, while the climbs will be intense, and the environment will be extreme, I will be home soon to enjoy the month of June.
Lastly, one of the highlights of my day is when I get to read the blog comments, so thank you all for your support. It means so much to me and the rest of the team.
Sara McGahan
Sara,
For weeks I’ve been clicking on this box and trying to come up with something inspiring or helpful to say to you. Unfortunately, surprise, I’ve realized that there probably isn’t that one perfect thing that’s going to help you through this but I can say this: If there was anyone in the world that I would say could climb mount Everest and make it to the top (I know, i don’t have the climbing lingo down yet) it would be you. Not only are you strong (I mean, we’ve all seen those chiseled abs hehe) but you’re also brave, sweet and amazingly humble. Heck, if I were climbing mount Everest, they’d probably have to get an extra harness for my big fat egotistical head! hehe. Though I have to say, just bragging about how I have a friend as cool as you is enough for me. But really, I look up to you Sara, you’re everything a person could want to be and I know it’s getting hard and it’s probably only harder from here, but remember that you’re already remarkable no matter what happens. And as much as I’d like to fly up there with a cosmo and a beach towel in hand, all I can really say is that I wish you the best, you’re one of the most astonishing people I know, and from my heart to yours, I know you can do this.
With love always,
Gigi
Posted by: Gigi Abcarian on 5/13/2011 at 1:58 am
SAYYYSS!! I can’t stop thinking about you!! every step is closer to your dream and closer to coming back to us!! so hunker down and stay strong. WE ALL LOVE YOU SO MUCH
The arrival of May has brought a flurry of activity here on Mt. Everest. The number of climbers making their way up the Lhotse Face grew during the last few days of our second rotation as the route was pushed up from Camp 3 to the South Col and Camp 4 was established. The morning broke clear yesterday, suggesting a warm Cinco de Mayo, but by noon a small bank of clouds blew in spitting snow on us. Thankfully the clouds cleared and the sun returned, providing a clear afternoon for the first team of climbers, made up of Sherpas and guides from several teams, that was attempting to climb to the summit. Breaking through the fresh snow on Everest’s upper reaches, left by the brief but frequent afternoon weather systems we saw over the past few weeks, the team of Sherpas and Westerners established the route for this season. At 4 o’clock we listened to the radio crackle with cheers and hollers as they called down from the summit, marking the first climbers to reach the summit of the 2011 season. Although most teams are a week or more away from making their summit bids, we will begin to see more climbers making attempts for the summit over the coming days and weeks.
For us, our third and final rotation begins tomorrow. Over the next few days we aim to climb back into the Western Cwm and up the Lhotse Face to our Camp 3 at 24,000’, pushing to our highest altitudes yet of the trip. This rotation is our final acclimatization round during which we will expose our bodies to even higher altitudes before returning to Base Camp for an extended rest period before our summit bid. This rotation will give us another chance to spend time climbing on the Lhotse Face, getting more efficient on the steep icy slopes and moving along the fixed lines at high altitudes.
We will also break out our oxygen systems for the first time during this rotation. We plan to use the “O’s” on a low flow rate to sleep at Camp 3 before climbing a bit further up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3 the following morning. The benefits of climbing with oxygen above Camp 3 are equally psychological as physical – like most activities, adding new gear and equipment takes added practice and climbing with the mask obscuring our feet, the respiration fogging our eye wear, the bottle weighing down the pack all takes getting used to. The chance to run through these discomforts before summit day is a huge benefit for us. Yesterday we pulled out a bottle of oxygen and went through a trial run, practicing attaching our regulators, adjusting the masks, and walking with the system. Once Sara strapped on her mask and goggles she looked as though she has stepped out of Top Gun, a pilot walking around the tents of Base Camp.
Today marks a month since our expedition first arrived at Base Camp. It is exciting to watch the transition of sentiment on the mountain and around Base Camp in recent days as teams begin to shift from a focus on acclimatization towards preparing for the summit bid itself. Although we still have a few more days of hard work before we can make that transition ourselves, the buildup is contagious. This excitement has been accompanied by a warming of the weather and it has been a warm (at least for around here) several days of rest here at Base Camp. Every morning once the sun crests over Lho La Pass, we pull out our chairs and stare up at the mountain, occasionally watching climbers in the Khumbu Ice fall through the spotting scope. As the morning grows warmer the ice beneath camp begins to melt, little rivulets of water running between the rocks, the surface of the camp gradually but perceptibly shifting as the rocks settle on the melting ice. All of these changes point towards the arrival of the final stretch of climbing for us. Bill has been very supportive in our preparations for the last rotation and Dave, Sara, and I are excited to headed up in a few hours.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
sara—stay strong and focused. that’s all there is to it. i know you must be bummed, but of all the people to be with you in spirit, it is your dad. of course, you have all the rest of us armchair adventurers too, but we won’t be waiting for you at 17,000 feet. we are at home in front of the computer following your moves. a completely different story, huh?! just stay focused on that mountain. it will be summer when you come home, so it will then be playtime in the summer sun…. love ya, aunt mary.
Posted by: aunt mary on 5/6/2011 at 3:48 pm
Bill, ForEX in NY has been alerted to expect activity from Everest now that your games are abount to begin.
Sara, I have everything crossed for your climb.
Aunt Marie
This is Seth checking in from 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. Today we awoke to clear skies in the Alaska Range. It was great to have a 'normal' day after a whirlwind start to our trip. Yesterday was supposed to be our packing day in Talkeetna but we had an opportunity to fly in the evening so we decided to go for it and now we're a day ahead of schedule. After a breakfast of bagels and smoked salmon we spent 5.5 hours on the trail. We then enjoyed some warm weather while we had dinner in camp. Now the sun is behind the mountains and everyone is tucked in their warm bags. It's been a great start to the trip.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
As Dave Hahn wrote yesterday, my attempt at trying to climb this monster called Mt. Everest is over. I wanted to write today about what went into that decision.
Over the past several weeks we have made several "rotations" on Mt. Everest to higher and higher camps and elevations. During these rotations I have felt quite strong for the most part, and in fact, our entire team has been strong. One of the keys to climbing this beast is that the group work together, and move efficiently and rapidly through the most dangerous parts of the mountain. We have in fact been doing that.
One of the key objectives of our rotations is to acclimatize. What this means is to allow the body to adjust to higher and higher altitudes by moving up the mountain slowly, by climbing "high" and then sleeping at a lower altitude, and then descending to a lower altitude (Everest Base Camp) and starting the pattern all over again.
About a week ago I started to notice that my body was not acclimatizing like the other members of the team beginning at about 22,000 feet. At night at this altitude, when I was attempting to sleep, I would be drifting off to sleep and then I would have to sit up and gasp for air. I would then pant for a minute or two, and then the entire process would repeat itself. This occurred for 4 to 5 nights ALL NIGHT LONG. I tried Diamox (a medicine used for acclimatization), but it didn't help me. During these nights I would look over at Sara (my daughter) who was restfully sleeping in her sleeping bag, and curse her (just kidding).
At about 22,000 feet my body simply stopped acclimatizing like it had been from the beginning of the trip. The result of this was that during the day I would not be rested. During our climbs I would be panting hard, and I would be slower than I had been, and now slower than the rest of the group. I tried hard to figure out how to sleep and get my acclimatization going again, but I just couldn't do it. I was getting weaker (not stronger like the rest of my teammates) every day above 22,000. Sara, on the other hand, would be getting stronger each day that she spent up there. I told her she was never going to get a car and she was grounded (just kidding again).
After our last rotation we returned to Base Camp. I went to bed and woke up LIKE A NEW MAN. Simply descending to Base Camp (which is still at 17,500 feet) allowed me to get a 10 hour night sleep, the first night sleep I had in 6 days. I slept like a rock, and I felt great (and feel great right now). So it's a weird feeling to be sitting at Base Camp, feeling extremely strong, and yet knowing that my attempt at the summit is over.
But, I made the decision that my attempt to climb Mt. Everest is over, and I know it's the correct decision. And here are my considerations:
1. I do not want to be a burden to my teammates. I think the hardest decision a person can make is to evaluate himself (or his children). It is very difficult to make these comparisons. I feel that I am a strong climber below 22,000, and still, above 22,000, I still think that I am an "okay" climber. I can climb forward past many people on the trail, but still, I can not keep up with my teammates, and I can not climb the tallest mountain in the world. These are tough assessments, but must be done honestly and candidly (so, next time one of your kids is cut from a team let it be known that I CUT MYSELF FROM MY OWN TEAM!)
2. This mountain is over 29,000 feet tall. At Camp 2 I would still be 1.5 VERTICAL MILES below the summit. If this mountain were 24k or 25k feet tall there is no doubt in my mind I would make myself summit. But, this is a monster. I have no interest in "high pointing" at Camp 3 or Camp 4. If I can't climb this mountain to the top, then I am done.
3. Sara. I am not simply a member of a typical team of, say, 8 guys. I am also the father of another member of this team. Another consideration that I must always have is what is in the best interest of Sara. And that's easy - to eliminate from the team its weakest member (me) that might cause the team to move slower, or - if I pushed myself beyond my limits - that might cause the team to have to stop to medically rescue me off the mountain. I know that with 6 professional members of our team, and one client (Sara), that, with me dropping out, Sara is in a better place. She will have an entire team of the best climbers in the world working with one client - her.
4. People die on Mt. Everest every year. It's a brutal, unforgiving place. There are many motivations for climbing this mountain (ego, personal challenge, etc.) and sometimes those motivations drive people to ignore the signs that their bodies are giving them and then they push themselves well beyond their limits. Its protocol in these blogs not to write about what you see on Mt. Everest. There are many other teams, many other climbers, and many other people making decisions about whether to proceed with their climb or to end it. Many continue to keep climbing. I am choosing to make sure that I don't die on Mt. Everest. I have a great family, great friends, and a great community, (and many things to do with the rest of my life) and I am looking forward to all of these things in the years ahead.
Dave Hahn and Linden Mallory are terrific guides. Dave has made this my decision, and has said repeatedly that I can "take another shot" and I can keep climbing (this trip is pretty expensive). But there really would be no purpose to trying again. I have been up to about 22,000 feet before and have struggled beginning at that altitude. Before this trip I thought that it was other factors that caused my lack of acclimatization (lack of water, not eating enough, etc.). But now I know that my body is just not made for climbing 8000 meter peaks.
I have climbed a lot of tall mountains (Aconcagua, Denali, Kili, etc..) and I really enjoy the experience. But if you hear of me planning to give an 8000 meter peak another try please GRAB ME BY ME ANKLES and stop me. My body is just not built for it.
I will be hanging out in Base Camp for the next 3 weeks (like a parent on the sidelines at Tophat) cheering on my daughter and the rest of the team. There are many things to do at Base Camp - last night I lost in Jenga, but came in second in a big Yahtzee tournament. And most every night there is a late night poker game (guides from many teams and countries like to play Texas Hold em, it turns out). And I am surrounded by the tallest and most beautiful mountains in the world. So, all is good here at Everest BaseCamp.
I am disappointed that I will not get a chance to summit, but I am happy that I made this journey, that I made it with my 16 year old daughter, and I wouldn't trade it for anything. I will remember it forever.
Love and peace to all.
Bill M.
I just finished reading your blog (sorry I was a bit late checking the update), and was blown away by the fortitude and conviction you displayed in making your decision.
It had to have been an incredibly difficult one for you to make- and at the same time, NOT. The reasons you listed were, needless to say, all overwhelmingly outweighed the decision to carry on up the mountain. although I’m sure the pull was and is still strong, you showed even greater strength in staying put at Base Camp and “taking one for the team”.
This extra time at Base Camp also provides you with an opportunity to win back the expedition fees via the late night Texas Hold ‘Em winnings you are bound to take in! Don’t forget to play the “Oh woe is me, I’m all alone down here at base camp while my daughter is up there on the summit without me” sympathy card! That should be good for a few extra chips or let you pass on the ante a few times…
Anyway, on behalf of the Benno Group congrats on your achievement. You’re an inspiration to us mere mortals down here at sea level.
See you in August?
Best,
Marc
Posted by: Marc Reiter on 5/11/2011 at 1:38 pm
Bill- I haven’t checked in for awhile. We met in Gorak Shep. I was on the Island Peak team. Just wanted to weigh in. When we all met a few weeks ago, I sensed something pretty unique between you and Sara. The fact that you made the decision you did speaks volumes of the kind of person you are.
Dzum Dzum!
Tim
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SARA my sweet little baby!!! Katherine and I were just flipping through your pictures and we miss you so much!! We can’t wait to see you and I want you to tell me everything about your trip!! Be safe and have fun, love you!
Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/11/2011 at 5:38 am
SARA!!!!!!!!!! you are doing awesome! I am so proud of you!!!!! I think about you everyday. I can not wait till the summer so we can rewatch all of the seasons of laguna beach! Atlanta is pretty boring besides the fact that exams are coming up and everyone has a ton of work. I know these past week have been an incredible experience and a lot of hard work. Keep it up and everyone is praying for you everyday. I know you can do it!!!! get this mountain DUNZO, so I can see you!! I have already said this but I miss you so much, and you are truly amazing. Cant wait to see you soon, you little mountain climber.
Lots of Love,
Spencer
Posted by: spencer on 5/9/2011 at 5:11 pm
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