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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Baker: Summit And Ski Team Enjoy Turns Despite the Weather

The Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent team led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer wrapped up their time on Mt. Baker today. The team took advantage of short periods of sun breaks to ski around Sandy Camp. Low clouds, snow, and poor visibility prevented the team from ascending too far out of camp. Pete reports great skiing and a happy team, making the most of their time on the mountain.

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Four Day Climb: Frank, Swingle & Team Ascend to Ingraham Flats

The Four Day Climb May 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Grayson Swingle ascended to Camp Muir yesterday. The team left from Camp Muir this morning and ascended to Ingraham Flats.  More new snow and avalanche danger made this their high point but they did enjoy some blue skies and sunshine.   The team left Camp Muir on their descent to Paradise.  We will look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

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Go MBK!!!

Posted by: ELLIS RICHMAN on 5/10/2022 at 5:54 am


Ruth Glacier Seminar: Parrinello, Delaney and Team Check in from Talkeetna

Hello everyone and welcome to the first blog post from the best trip RMI offers, the Ruth Glacier Seminar!

Yesterday the team flew into Anchorage accompanied by beautiful skies and amazing views of five different mountain ranges! After gathering up at the airport we hopped in the shuttle and drove to Talkeetna, got some food and called it an early night since we were all travel weary. 

Today was spent organizing and double checking all our gear so that the next nine days in the Great Gorge would go as smoothly as possible. What didn't go smoothly was the weather, we were informed midday that there was a persistent cloud layer down low on the Ruth Glacier. Our chance of flying in was unlikely and as late afternoon turned to evening, we sadly had to postpone our flying in. We are hoping to wake up tomorrow with better weather and fly on to the glacier early in the morning! 

Cheers, 

RMI Guides Jack Delaney, Avery Parinello and the team.

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Mt. Rainier: Stormy Weather Keeps Five Day Climb at Camp Muir

 RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Dustin Wittmier and the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb teams endured a steady and consistent spring storm at Camp Muir. Windy conditions prevented the teams fom ascending above Camp Muir but will make for epic stories of traveling to the outhouse while at camp. The teams will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sorry to hear that, looks like last three expeditions able to go up Muir Camp only due to weather.
Is May is good month to go (just wondering)?

Posted by: Umesh Patel on 5/8/2022 at 5:01 pm

Sorry to hear the May 6th team got turned around due to weather….

I am ready to tackle Rainier on August 3 - 6…. I am hoping the weather is not a factor

I would LOVE to hear of your experiences and recommendations so I can learn more

Posted by: Jeff Duqutte on 5/7/2022 at 9:36 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Calls Muir Their High Point

Early season weather kept the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb from ascending above Camp Muir. The teams, led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Andy Bond reported windy and snowy conditions at Camp Muir. The climbers will make their descent to Paradise this morning and will be back in Ashford later day.

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So good to meet you all and thanks to Andy and the gang for a fantastic time on the mountain. I’ll see you guys again in August for an hopefully successful summit bid.

The closed Longmire Gate still haunts my dreams.

Posted by: Xavier on 5/3/2022 at 7:08 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Descending from Camp Muir

The Five Day Climb April 26 - 30 led by RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and James Bealer completed their Mountaineering School on April 27 and made the ascent to Camp Muir on April 28.  The teams spent the last two nights at 10,080' Camp Muir.  Climbers were able to ascend to Ingraham Flats but due to adverse weather conditions were unable to climb any higher. Today the team is descending from Camp Muir to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

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Bummer guys!  Sorry about the weather!  It’s all about the journey and not the destination though!  I hope you learned a lot, met some cool people, and are excited for the next one.

Posted by: Constantine V on 5/1/2022 at 4:16 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five-Day climb Enjoys Sunrise on Ingraham Flats

RMI Guides Grayson Swingle and Ben Liken reported the Five-Day climbing teams enjoyed a beautiful sunrise this morning. The team spent two nights at Camp Muir and enjoyed lots of hands-on training and practice to enhance their glacier travel skills all while ascending to Camp Muir in wonderful spring conditions. The team will descend to Basecamp and celebrate their accomplishments before everyone begins their next adventure home.

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Wrap up Week of Training

After a week of unexpected park closures and a wonderful spring storm, our first Muir seminar of the season has concluded. Despite the less than stellar weather conditions, the team was able to shift gears and make the most of their time on the mountain. Climbers learned important skills like route planning, glaciology, snow sciences and spent several days practicing and honing their crevasse rescue skills.

Congratulations team – we hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain!

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Begins the 2022 Season

On Monday, the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir was foiled from getting into the National Park by a large Spring snow storm.  We spent the day learning and practicing technical skills like rope ascension and ice climbing.  The team then learned about route planning, glaciology, and snow science. Hopes are high that the team can reach Paradise today.

RMI Guide James Bealer

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Hi, did this group reach the summit??

Posted by: John Swartz on 4/16/2022 at 10:50 am


Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche:  Team Returns to Kathmandu

Day 16-17

Waking into Namche this round through was much different than the first time.  Despite our sizable group, we were by no means the largest on the trail.  

This place is now in full swing with Everest climbers, international trekking teams and yak trains going up the valley towards Everest Base Camp.  

Even though the traffic resembled more of a US interstate than a single-track trail, we were pleased to land back at camp de base where we were welcomed with hot showers, Nepal Ice “extra strong beer” and the comforts of nice rooms with personal bathrooms. The hike was roughly 8 miles from Pangboche consisting of many ups and downs but nothing the seasoned team couldn’t handle.    

After a normal 7:30 breakfast the following morning, we set our sights on Lukla, home of the infamous dead-end runway and gateway to Everest.   Eleven miles and 6 hours after leaving Namche we strolled in with time to spare before dinner so naps all around became the team activity.   The clouds were thick as pea soup by 7 pm so our flight status was a bit unknown.   With fingers crossed we went to bed. When our alarms ripped us awake at 5 am the disheartening presence of this fog was still lingering out the window.  

We made our way anyhow, walking to the airport to check in and hope for the best. After waiting for ten hours to fly on the way in, we were not hoping for a repeat.   Two hours in we were beginning to get a bit worried and then the first plane landed.   Ten minutes later we were loaded up and, in our way, back to Kathmandu!   

Now we are clean, fed and content, celebrating a fun and successful trip. I can’t thank this team enough for a great few weeks in Nepal.   

This wraps up the Everest Base Camp and Lobuche expedition. Thanks for following!  

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Amazing trip. Would do it all over again. This trip changed the trajectory of my life. Thank you for your expertise guidance and comeraderie

Posted by: Eva on 4/9/2022 at 3:17 am

Congratulations! If you are in southwest Idaho, look us up!

Posted by: Molly Knoff Vaughn on 4/8/2022 at 10:01 am

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