Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Hello, this is Mike Walter calling from the Cotopaxi hut on Wednesday afternoon. Everything is awesome up here. We are enjoying some soup this afternoon up here in the hut. The weather looks good, some clouds have rolled in this afternoon but the past few days have been beautiful and we are enjoying beautiful views.
We are getting set for an early dinner and we’ll go to bed early in preparation for our alpine start. So, we will plan to touch base with you tomorrow and will hopefully be calling you from the summit of Cotopaxi if all goes well.
Everyone is doing well and we’ll talk to you soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The Mt. McKinley Custom Expedition led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Geoff Schellens, Lindsay Mann and Zeb Blais were loading the planes at K2 Aviation en route to the Kahiltna Glacier at 9 a.m. Alaska time.
We wish the team a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!
The Four Day Summit Climb June 26 - 29th led by Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported clear skies and 25 mph winds on the summit.
Gabriel Barral and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons also made the summit of Mt. Rainier today. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Our climb has had a flawless beginning thus far. True, we haven't actually hoisted a pack, walked uphill or even set foot on a glacier yet, but that will all come soon enough.
First things first... yesterday the climbing team came together down in Anchorage and shuttled on up to Talkeetna. Today was actually jam-packed with orienting provisioning and preparing for our climb. If all goes well, we hope that K2 Aviation will be able to fly us on to the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow morning. It seems the weather has been a little sloppy of late, although it did break long enough today for planes to get in and out of Kahiltna Basecamp a few times, retrieving the RMI team led by Jake Beren. It was great to chat with his guides and climbers as to current conditions on the hill. Combined with the briefing we received from the National Park Service this morning and what we've gathered from other acquaintances in the streets and eateries of Talkeetna throughout the day, we are feeling quite knowledgeable as to what we may find. Next step is to go and see for ourselves. We had a fine dinner at the busy West Rib Pub before retiring -with fingers crossed for easy flying conditions- to our comfy beds in the Talkeetna Motel.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello, this is Mike Haugen checking in from 14,000' on Mt. McKinley.
After a great push to cache our gear up high yesterday, we took today as a rest day. Although we were in the clouds most of the day, the sun was peaking through just enough to heat up the inside of our tents via the greenhouse effect. Thus, our nap-puchinos were glorious. After our naps and some lunch, Elias and I taught the crew some rope tricks that will help us be efficient as our rope teams make our way back up through the fixed lines and the running belays (our protection on steep slopes) that lie on the upper mountain. Our plan is to hurry up and wait for the perfect weather that will allow us to move from 14,000' Camp to 17,000' Camp. RMI's Joe Horiskey promised us perfect weather tomorrow, so send him angry emails if it is snowing or windy.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Hi gang. My in-box is full (thanks to you). You know the old saying: good weather follows bad. It will definitely clear at some point. Once it stabilizes, the route should be in terrific condition. I don’t want to see you guys break my record of 33 days on the mountain and no summit (May, 1972). Keep thinking positive. Be safe and enjoy your time on Denali (some of you will be back to the rain in WA soon enough). Joe
Posted by: Joe on 6/29/2011 at 2:41 pm
Hey K, whole team in the heart room concentrating on your blog rather than the redo mitral valve we’re supposed to be doing. The pictures from the team summiting June 29 are awesome. Seems you guys are at 17,000 feet. Incredible. How you doin? Love and kisses from the girls in the heart room, and Chris. Miss you, Buddy. Hope all is well. You’re not missing anything here. Have fun. Be safe. The Heart Team and Kyle
Posted by: Kyle enslin on 6/29/2011 at 10:31 am
Well I'm sure you all have been wondering where in the world we are. Forgive the suspense, but it has been an action packed few days. After our last sub-space frequency, we had to re-reevaluate our situation and make the difficult, but ultimately very clear decision to return to lower elevations. After many days at 17,000 feet and over a week waiting for a window at 14,000' camp we were plain out of time for a realistic summit attempt. Often these expeditions make allowances for running over budget on time and our team was prepared to hold out for a workable window to go for the top. However, the weather never did us the favor of cooperating. Such is the way of the mountains and we are wise to read their signals.
Our stay at 17,000 feet was marked by deep snow, drifting thigh to waist high outside of camp and persisting for days. Accompanied by high winds that loaded start zones and released multiple full track avalanches that ran down almost to the ranger station at 14 camp, stability seemed far from our reality. Our route to Denali Pass ran several times and when the storm cleared long enough the famous autobahn is positively pregnant with deep windslabs. The weather reports we have been monitoring continue to predict unstable weather, high winds and more snow, followed by a large low pressure system bringing more bad weather to the mountain. Still we didn't want to head down, but staying longer in such weather exposes us to greater risk the longer we stay.
Capitalizing on a lull in the weather, we began our descent of the West Buttress yesterday. That is my favorite part of the route and presents some of the most interesting climbing on this route. Our 19 days on this beautiful mountain prepared us well to move efficiently and though I would gladly have gone to the top with such a great team, I was glad to be able to handle the route's namesake feature in windy conditions with safe teammates.
Despite the spindrift and new snow, conditions did present us with some pockets of sunshine where we were able to see this mountain in its stormy glory. We made it down to 14 camp where we regrouped and hoofed it down to 11,000 feet for a hot meal and a few hours sleep with some amazing skies on our way around Windy Corner.
Three hours of downtime, then it was off again and we raced the warming Lower Kahiltna Glacier's snow bridges to the runway. On our exit we were able to see the upper mountain up the NE Fork and again from the airstrip. It was still socked in with a cloud cap and high winds and our call to escape, though bittersweet, remains sound.
Having not heard the sound of planes in the air for days, it was a treat to see the Otters, Beavers and Cessnas amongst the spectacular backdrop of Mt. Hunter and Foraker. Our gear sorted, we were on the afternoon flight and are now back in Talkeetna, magically back to summer and a land where green things flourish and showers imply happiness instead of misery. In a few hours our team will meet again for another dinner, prepared by strangers and without the ambiance of a snow fort. It will be a welcome treat.
Thank you friends and family for the support and love on our adventure. We went out not knowing what would happen and we returned safe, but with some unfinished business. I am content that we gave it our all and emerged friends and stronger for the time amongst the clouds and upper atmosphere. Thanks to a great team and excellent colleagues, it was an adventure I am happy to have shared with everyone,
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Thanks Jake, Gilbert and Mike for your outstanding leadership on this climb. We all made it out safely, and that was the ultimate goal. It was great to meet new climbing (and ultimately drinking) buddies and friends. An awesome experience and we are a little older and wiser in the ways of Denali. We have some unfinished business, and I suspect some of us will be back to take care of things. Thanks again, guides! Vince
Posted by: Vince Vilasi on 7/1/2011 at 5:45 am
Thanks so much for generously allowing me to tie in on the descent. Both the folks that I roped up with, and the fantastic welcoming committee at 11,000’ were awesome!!!
Posted by: Leslie on 6/30/2011 at 12:10 pm
Despite a forecast last night calling for the arrival of a low pressure system blowing in from the Bering Sea, the unsettled weather finally swung in our favor this morning. The skies were mostly clear above us when we got out of the tents, and the bank of clouds hanging just to our west hung stationary, not quite reaching past Mt. Foraker and Kahiltna Dome. Seizing the first day of good weather we've seen since leaving Base Camp, we loaded up our packs with food, fuel, and a few extra supplies and headed up out of 11 Camp. To say it was an amazing morning for climbing is an understatement (although I realize we're a bit jaded by the whiteout conditions of the past few days) - it was calm, crisp, and clear, the route was in perfect shape, much of the new snow blown away making for perfect cramponing, and the temperatures comfortable. By the time we reached the top of Motorcycle Hill, just above 11 Camp, we all had grins from ear to ear - we couldn't believe how nice the conditions were especially because we were anticipating spending the day hunkered down in camp battling wind and snow.
We climbed all morning, making great time up to Windy Corner at over 13,000', finally stopping just past Windy Corner at 13,600'. There we dug a big hole and dropped all of the gear we were carrying. Caching gear like that benefits us in two ways: it allows us to break down the massive amount of supplies we need to carry on this mountain and move them up in more manageable loads as well as helps us acclimatize and get used to the altitude. By climbing up higher during the day we expose our bodies to thinner air and help kick start the body's acclimatization process before descending back to a lower camp where we can rest and recover - hence the climber's adage "climb high, sleep low".
After finishing our cache we turned back down our trail and motored back into camp, reaching our tents mid-afternoon. While the clear skies filled with clouds throughout the day the conditions remained warm and calm without even a breath of wind. The clouds are certainly building, indicating the arrival of a possible front, but they haven't stacked up like we were anticipating so we are in a wait and see mode. If we are feeling up for it and the weather cooperates we would like to move up to our next camp at 14,200' tomorrow but we need conditions, both weather and the group to align perfectly for that. If we aren't able to make the move tomorrow we will stay here at 11 Camp and rest and recover from the past several days of travel. We will check in tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Daaad! You’re Mr. Popular on this blog, eh? Miss you and love you! You guys have inspired me to increase my own workout- I ran 2 miles today! Doesn’t seem very impressive compared to your daily trek but I’m taking baby steps. I hope everyone enjoyed their rest day! Love you mucho!
Posted by: samantha marini on 6/30/2011 at 9:19 pm
Hey Frank! We’ve been thinking about you. It looks like alot of fun! Everyone here is good. Nick is still getting “A’s” but had his new laptop stolen from his dorm room! Never a dull moment with him….
Hope all is well. Stay safe!
Steph
Posted by: Stephanie Tovar on 6/30/2011 at 8:45 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hi, this is Mike Walter calling from Chilcabamba.
We awoke last night at 11 pm to check the weather for our summit attempt on Cayambe. I took a quick check out side and was greeted with a strong wind, some snow and poor visibility. We kept checking the weather to see if it would improve but by 3 am it became apparent that the storm wasn’t going to let up. It wasn’t going to be our day on Cayambe.
Instead we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast in the warm and dry comforts of the Cayambe climber’s hut. After lots of coffee, hot chocolate, oatmeal and cinnamon rolls, we packed up, put on our Shell jackets and headed down to the trail head and our waiting vehicles.
We headed to south to Chilcabamba where we will rest and prepare for our next climbing objective: Cotopaxi. Chilcabamba is located just outside of Cotopaxi National Park, on the flanks of Cotopaxi and has great views of the mountain and our climbing route.
We are hoping for more cooperative weather down south and our climb of Cotopaxi. In the mean time We are all in good spirits and enjoying each other’s company and the wonderful culture of Ecuador. Right now I am standing outside of Chilcabamba on a cloudless morning looking at Cotopaxi.
So all is well and we’ll check in later from the Cotopaxi hut.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Best of luck for good weather on Cotopaxi——kick in some steps for next week’s team.! Safe climbing.
Posted by: Darryl Schimeck on 6/28/2011 at 11:58 am
The Five Day Summit Climb led by Mark Falender along with the Four Day Summit Climb led by Chad Peele were forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver (approx. 12,300') due to high winds and poor visibility. The teams returned safely to Camp Muir and will begin their descent to Paradise around 9 a.m. PT.
RMI Guide Jake Beren and team of climbers have decided to return to Talkeetna. The group was at 11,000' this morning and making their way to the Kahiltna Glacier where they hope to be flown off the mountain later today.
Congratulations on a wise and prudent, if difficult decision. Wishing you all the best in future climbs—on Denali and elsewhere. Andrew, call me. Gary Towne
Posted by: Gary Towne (Andrew's Dad) on 6/28/2011 at 10:20 am
Spencer, I take it by your grin your having a blast!! Stay safe Warrior. Respect the mountain. Enjoying the blogs.
Posted by: Wesley Smithee on 6/30/2011 at 4:06 pm
What a wonderfully happy group. I am so excited for all of you. Praying for your safety, great weather and kindness from the mountain. Always in my heart Wayne, love Dinah
Posted by: Dinah Rogers on 6/29/2011 at 2:12 pm
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