Entries from Expedition Dispatches
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Welcome to the start of the RMI Aconcagua Expedition!
Everybody in the group is in Mendoza and we are very excited. Our plan is to have dinner and try the great Argentinian beef! Tomorrow morning we will get the climbing permits and do some shopping for lunch food and other last minute items. After that we will drive three hours through the Andes Mountains and arrive at Los Penitentes (8200-8500 feet) to spend our first night at altitude and start with the acclimatization.
We will be checking in tomorrow.
-RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the RMI Aconcagua Expedition
I always thought that Antarctica was cold. And, I'm sure it is sometimes; we just haven't really seen that yet, and I for one am not complaining.
Our day began with a late-morning breakfast, brilliantly prepared by Seth and Caroline. We don't bother to get moving until mid-morning; it's warmer then, and with perpetual daylight, there's no real worry about setting camp before nightfall. After breakfast came the mountainous task of sorting and packing our various piles of equipment: food, stoves, ropes, crampons, tents, clothes, bags, pads...all of it needed to move uphill, either in a backpack or on a sled. And, for Kent and I, there was a bit more; laptop, batteries, cameras, satellite phone, and a solar charger had to be added to the mix.
But, somehow, we got most of it. Seth and Caroline headed off early, on skis, toting heavily-laden sleds full of group and personal gear. The rest of us - Peter, Ed, Cindy, David, Ben, Kent, and I - followed along under the blistering sun of Antarctica. It is amazing: While the actual air temperature might only be zero or less, with no wind and bright sun, it feels much, much warmer. So warm, in fact, that we all were in midweight baselayers most of the day. But, even the slightest puff of wind chills to the bone and sends one running for gloves, hat, and a Downlight Sweater.
After just over five hours on the trail, we crested a small knoll and saw the ice-block walls of Low Camp ahead. Tired but happy, we pulled in. Seth and Caroline had arrived long before, and hot drinks were waiting on our arrival - not bad service for 9,200 feet in Antarctica.
Above us, stunning peaks rise all around, and the eternal sun blazes overhead. It's colder here, but still pretty nice. I'm smiling...
-Jake Norton
Hey everyone, Peter Whittaker here with the First Ascent and RMI team in Antarctica checking in. We had a great day today. We actually moved from Basecamp up to Camp 1 on the Branscomb Glacier. Five and a half miles and it took us about 5 ½ hours, and we gained 2,000 feet. So we're up at 9000 feet now, just over 9, at Camp 1. We had beautiful weather today with very little wind kept conditions nice and the whole team moved up smartly. Seth and Caroline got out before us on skis, and hauled up a load into camp, set up tents and had a hot brewing for us when we got in. It was awesome. And so we're here now. It's about 9 o'clock at night. It is January 6th and Seth wanted to be sure and wish Solveig a “happy birthday.”
Our plan for tomorrow is to… most of us are gonna hang out up here, a couple of us are gonna head back down, and do a back carry, grab loads from base camp. The rest of our food and fuel to bring it up to [Camp] 1 and then will be self sufficient here from Camp 1 to move on up to [Camp] 2 and then eventually the summit. The weather's been just fantastic so far, and we're hoping that it does hold. The team’s well, everyone is enjoying themselves, and we just wanted to share with you our latest. We will talk to you soon, over and out.
Peter Whittaker from Vinson Massif
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It was a long day, although with perpetual daylight and a lot of excitement, we hardly noticed.
Starting at 4:30 AM, we were off to Punta Arenas airport to board our Ilyushin flight to Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica. The Ilyushin is a remarkable plane, capable of carrying huge payload long distances in tough conditions. But, luxury is not its forte. To get an idea, imagine 3 railroad freight cars tied together and sent aloft. Luxury aside, the Ilyushin is an experience of Antarctica not to be missed, and is quite a plane. The pilots dropped us on the 3 mile, blue ice runway as if it were a strip of cotton, and we all excitedly stepped off onto the ice.
The new Union Glacier camp - Antarctica headquarters of ALE - is as nice as it gets in every aspect. The ALE staff, who spend months here on the ice helping people fulfill their Antarctic dreams, do great work making sure every need is attended to. It all started with a gourmet lunch in the toasty dining tent, filling our bellies and putting smiles on our faces. We were all pretty comfy at Union Glacier, and not too opposed to the idea of staying a night there. But, then word came we would continue our journey, flying in an hour on to Vinson Basecamp (VBC).
It is rare to NOT have a delay at some point in the transition from Punta Arenas to Basecamp. Delays of a week or more are actually quite common. So, we weren't going to complain at getting all the way to Vinson Basecamp in one day - especially a warm, sunny one like we had.
Yet again we were off, in a two-part journey to VBC. A larger plane ferried us to the Nimmitz Glacier, where a Twin Otter took us the final 10 minutes to VBC. Kent Harvey and I went first in order to get good imagery of the Otter landing on the snow at VBC and the team's arrival. Unfortunately, after dropping us off, the Otter pilot fell and broke his wrist. Fortunately he'll be OK, but that incident added another 4 hours to the rest of the team arriving.
But, arrive they finally did, and we got camp set up in the stunning cirque of VBC. Jagged peaks soar above us, clad in massive glaciers under a never-setting sun. Seth made a great dinner of Dinty Moore meals, and sent us all to bed. It was 12:10 AM when I finally turned in, sunglasses still on. Welcome to Antarctica.
The winter seminar had one of the most spectacular sunny and wind free days possible on Mount Rainier yesterday! Our entire team successfully made the long walk to Camp Muir just in time to watch the sun set. We had warm drinks, a hot meal, a lot of laughs, and a nice night's sleep in the bunkhouse.
Today we woke to a wonderful sunrise with great views of Mt. Adams, Hood, St. Helens, and Jefferson. This morning we worked on ice axe, crampon, and rope travel skills on the flanks of the Cowlitz Glacier. We plan to train in avalanche beacon skills and avalanche terrain assessment for the afternoon as clouds swirl and conditions remain reasonable.
We are enjoying the winter beauty up on Mount Rainier!
-RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Walter Hailes, Andy Bond and Solveig Garhart
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Just got off the phone with our outfitter ALE. There will be no flight tonight. We are to dress in our gear, boot up, and be “wheels up” in the lobby at 4:30 am tomorrow morning. I have mixed feelings…glad to get another night in a bed after the enduro flights to get here, but I’m anxious to get on the ice and start.
This will be my third trip to Vinson and I am stoked to go back. Viesturs and I have been planning this trip for years. First Ascent is our primary sponsor, and the team consists of Ed Viesturs, Seth Waterfall, Caroline George, and Jake Norton, who are all First Ascent team members. Also coming along is Kent Harvey, one of the best high altitude cinematographers in the business. Rounding out our team are clients Cindy Outlaw, Ben Dimock, and David Pritchett. This team will climb Vinson, celebrating the 45th Anniversary of the first ascent done in 1966 by Americans, who were wearing…you got it, Eddie Bauer expedition clothing. We have the original flag from that expedition and plan to place it on top to commemorate their climb. After Vinson, the guides and production team will fly to an unexplored area and ski several first descents. Throughout the trip the entire team will be testing 2011 and 2012 First Ascent prototypes.
Just another day in the office…
Stay tuned for more updates,
Peter Whittaker
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
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The RMI Expedition to Vinson Massif began January 1, 2011 as the team members and guides departed the U.S. in route to Punta Arenas, Chile. The team is led by led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Seth Waterfall and Caroline George.
Today they met with staff from Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions for an orientation about life on the ice. The itinerary is for the group to fly to Antarctica tomorrow but it looks like the weather is good and thus the team is readying for a departure as early as this evening (10 pm Chilean time).
The big Ilyushin 76 has been loaded with gear, food and supplies. Everything the team will need for their ascent of Vinson Massif.
If the weather remains good down on the ice, the team may be in the air in just a few hours!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
RMI Guide Ed Viesturs discusses the preparation for this January's Vinson Massif expedition with First Ascent.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After a big day on the mountain, we stood on the top of Mexico's highest peak. Everyone did a great job and really earned the magnificent views of Ixta, Popo and La Malinche. It was a great night for climbing, shooting stars above, lit villages below, light winds on route and a great team. Excellent work. Back in Tlachichuca we all slept well for some reason and had our last meal together as a team. In our courtyard we could see Pico de Orizaba and the heights we reached yesterday at the same time of day. Now it's off to Mexico City to catch flights back home and watch the thousands of pilgrims riding bikes and trucks as well as walking to celebrate Mexico's favorite Lady of Guadalupe. Glad we get to drive. Thanks for a great trip everyone and safe travels back home.
Hello, this is RMI Guide Jake Beren calling to check in from our Mexico's Volcanoes program. We are happy to report that we reached the summit of Orizaba today at 9:00 a.m. local time. Our team did a great job on the climb.
We are headed back to Tlachichuca to celebrate and enjoy our last night in Mexico. Tomorrow we will return to Mexico City for our outbound flights.
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