Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The Four Day Climb teams for June 8 - 12 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier.  RMI Guide Tom Skoog reported good conditions, clear skies and colder temperatures.  The teams enjoyed some time in the summit crater before starting their descent from the crater rim around 7:15 am.  Once back at Camp Muir, the teams will re-pack and continue down to Paradise.  They will conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!

Wednesday, June 11, 2025 - 9:21 pm PT

We’ve Landed

We’re officially on the glacier.

After spending, as Dom puts it, “the right amount of time in Talkeetna,” we loaded into the Dehavilland Otters this morning and flew into the heart of the Alaska Range.  Jack, our pilot, confirmed that “of all the RMI groups this year, this is the nicest day to fly.”  Jack was kind enough to take us around for a view of the climbing route.   It is difficult to describe the scenic majesty of the jagged snow-capped peaks as we circled around and made our landing approach.  We have base camp practically to ourselves, and it’s very peaceful and quiet, with a few clouds drifting in the blue sky above.  After setting up, and spending time learning how to rig the sleds, and how to pack as to not look “like traveling merchants on the Kahiltna glacier,” we settled in for a break.  

Tonight we’ll have some pizza for dinner, the last trace of civilization (apart from the 9 inReach units our group brought along. . . )

For now, the focus is rest. We’re planning to head out with our sleds sometime around 3 a.m., taking advantage of the firm snow and cool conditions for travel on the lower glacier.

Signing off from Kahiltna Base camp,

RMI Climber Nate Brunner

The June 9th Mt. McKinley Expedition has loaded up in Talkeetna in the K2 Aviation Twin Otters and is heading to Kahiltna Base Camp. Their next check in should be from the glacier.

Good luck team!

After our big day yesterday, today was some well deserved R & R. We slept in a bit and had a slow morning of bagels and bacon. We then headed to the edge of camp to dig up our cache. After a few hours of rest we then took some time to review fixed rope skills to prepare us for tomorrow, to carry up the fixed lines up above 16,000'.

We then enjoyed some dinner of potato soup and chicken sausage and called it a night.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

The Team is Packed and Ready for the Flight in!

Welll we did it. We packed. We’re ready….. we hope. 

Today is quite the bear of a day. What starts as a nice leisurely breakfast at the Swiss Alaska quickly turns into a packing, sorting, repacking, resorting conundrum. We have to pack for a 3 week trip with all of our food, gear, and shelters for the trip. It’s a task. BUT, we did it in style. 

The team worked through the maze of duffels, carabiners, and a million ziplocks to finally weigh in and separate our gear for the flight tomorrow. We’ll be eating up and soaking in the last bit  of creature comforts that Talkeetna has to offer. We’re excited to let the gun go off and the trip to officially start. Once we’re on the mountain, the jitters fade and the fun begins. Wish us luck and be sure to look for your climbers name at the bottom of these dispatches. We’ll pass this blog around the team so that you can hear about the journey from your loved ones. 

Be on the lookout and talk to you all following along from Kahiltna Basecamp! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

The Five Day Climb June 7 - 11 led by RMI Guide Joe Hoch reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today with 100% of the team.  We started in full moonlight and summited 100 percent on a perfect morning!

The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a sort break and to repack before beginning the final descent to Paradise. They will conclude their program later today at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to the team!

The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Kautz June 6 - 11 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz Glacier route. After several days of training the team put their skills to the test ascending the Kautz Ice chute and Wapowety Cleaver.  They reached Point Success at 8:50 am and crossed to Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier 14,410' arriving at 9:12 am.  The team enjoyed a bit of time in the crater and then began their descent.  They will return to camp for a well deserved rest and spend a final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will continue their descent to Paradise, returning to Rainier BaseCamp to conclude their program.

Way to go team!

PC: Felipe Guarderas & Layne Peters

Monday, June 9, 2025 - 10:21 pm PT

Today was a long day. Around midnight the snow finally stopped and the skies begun to clear. This morning we woke up to lingering clouds, but a few hints of sunshine and finally, a day without snow. After a quick breakfast and hot drinks, we began to shovel out our camp, that had taken a real beating over the last few days of really heavy snowfall. Once we shoveled our camp, we began to pack up the gear we needed for 14,000' Camp, and gather the gear we were going to leave at 11,000' Camp until we came back through. This included snowshoes, one trekking pole, and for everyone besides the guides - the dreaded sleds. We also left behind trash, and food we realized a week in we might not eat in the remaining two weeks. Once our cache was buried and left, we strapped on our crampons and began the slow trek up Motorcycle Hill. It was no easy feat, the trail breaking was close to waist deep in places. We continued our way up Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields, and around Windy Corner - which was less windy than a few days ago. And finally made it to the promised land, 14,000' Camp. Greeted by friends and sunshine, it was nice to finally make it to our launching point for the rest of the mountain. We quickly built camp, and eventually enjoyed a late dinner of ramen. The team did great, everyone pushed themselves, and showed up.

Tomorrow we will sleep in and take a well deserved rest day at our new camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

The Five Day climb June 5 - 9 led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn reached the summit at 5 am today.  It's a beatiful blue-bird day. They enjoyed an hour in the summit crater before starting their descent from the crater rim at 6 am. The team is currently on their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at camp they will take a short break to repack their gear and then continue the final 4,500' descent to Paradise. 

Nice work team!

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 11:01 pm PT

It started snowing yesterday afternoon while we were doing our carry, and it seems it hasn't stopped since. Heavy snowfall has made our entire world a snow globe. We woke up to the sound of snowfall on the tent, a signal to us that today would be another weather day here at 11,000' Camp. After our big effort yesterday, a little bit of a mellow morning was welcomed. So after a later alarm we all gathered in the cook tent for some toasted bagels, cream cheese and bacon. The day continued on with heavy snowfall covering every past sign of other teams or climbers. People would cycle out every hour to brush or shovel off the tents and by the next hour, the snow had just refilled. Wading from one camp to another was a waist deep adventure. After hours of keeping the camp unburied we had yet again, some burritos - and chatted about our plan for tomorrow. The big move. We are all excited about the prospect of a new camp, flat tent platforms, and one step closer to the summit. The weather looks a bit more promising so we are going to bed optimistic.

One more thing - happy birthday to Brandon's Mom!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion