Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The Four-Day Climb with Dominic Cifelli & Sam Marjerison turned around at High Break (13,600’) today due to high winds and heavy clouds forming on the upper mountain during their ascent. The team is en route back to Camp Muir and should return to Basecamp early this afternoon.

Congratulations to the team on a strong climb!

Friday, May 30, 2025 - 11:47 pm PT

RMI Denali Team #4 is assembled and after a full day of packing, is ready to embark on a grand adventure. What exact adventure awaits is somewhat of an unknown, an uncertainty that is a part of the process.

Today was spent packing, leaving no stone unturned because once we land on the glacier we basically just have what we have. Sure, some bartering can take place at the various camps, but we must make every effort to remember every item. Details matter.

Also throughout the day we continued to acquaint ourselves with the logistics of climbing and specifically of climbing this route in full expedition style. The K2 Aviation team gave us a quick orientation about flying on; and we were in close contact with them all day, sorting some additional details about our flights and basecamp logistics. The National Park Service briefed us on the route and provided some information that will help us climb responsibly in regard to our safety as a team and our ability to keep the mountain clean.

To wrap up the day we had a meal at the Denali Brewpub and got to bed hopefully early enough to get a full night's rest in a real bed, possibly our last for a few weeks. One big sigh of relief for every climber, knowing they have everything they need packed and ready to go.

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier, Lacie Smith, Will Ambler & Team

Friday, May 30, 2025 - 7:57pm PDT

Waiting at 14,000

Our guides warned us that days at 14,000 feet could be among the hardest. Not because of the altitude, the vertical climbs, or the heavy loads—but because of the waiting.

Today, we hoped for a weather window to move to 17, the penultimate step in our push for the summit. Instead, we were sequestered in camp by wind and snow. Nerves and hopes for tomorrow run high. These are the days that can wear on you—but I am fortunate to be part of an intrepid, resolved, and collegial team.

I am inspired by you, my fellow climbers—by your humor and strength, your spirit of adventure and fierce determination, your perseverance and positivity. We came together by different paths, but we now share a common journey. When I falter, you wait. When you ascend, I cheer. We move together, always supporting, never judging.

I am equally emboldened by our guides—by their friendliness, focus, and vision. They work while we rest. They carry the heavier loads. Though their frustration with our poor packing skills and questionable foot care is sometimes apparent, their patience, calm, and capability give me confidence—not in the outcome, which even they cannot promise, but in the possibility. There are a thousand reasons—weather, injury, error—that any one of us might not summit. But these three remarkable people are the reason we can try.

I don’t know what the next few days hold. But I know this: the ten of us will face what comes together, as we have faced everything so far—one expedition, one team, one rope.

– David and team

Friday May 30, 2025 -5:06 pm PDT

Well, we got everyone ready. Spirits were high, packs were packed, and the skies were crystal clear in town when we woke up… but sadly, the mountain had other plans. Basecamp was totally socked in.

So we got put on standby, crossing fingers and toes for a break in the weather.

And then we waited… and waited… and waited some more.

Unfortunately, instead of a magical clearing, the weather just kept building, and it became pretty clear that our window wasn’t going to open today. So, we shifted gears—found some lodging in town, went on a few sanity-preserving jogs, and then regrouped for dinner as a team.

Wash, rinse, repeat… and hope Friday brings the goods.

Think clear thoughts!

The Four Day Climb with Brent Okita and Henry Coppolillo reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported a clear, calm, and beautiful day on top.

The team spent time on the summit signing the summit registry, taking pictures, and celebrating before starting their descent back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations Team!

Thursday May 29, 2025 11:15 pm PDT

The rest day at 14K. Waiting on the weather.

99% of people come to Denali with the sole aspiration of reaching the summit. Don’t be like these folks, they are basic and miss out While tent-bound and waiting for our weather window (hopefully Saturday or Sunday by the way, put it on your calendars), we’ve been busy with:

1. Building an ice monument at camp to honor the ice Pharaohs that will last a thousand suns.
2. Setting up an HOA and developing our surrounding community.
3. Reenacting 12 Angry Men, except the crime is who left a covert poop in our bathroom?
4. Putting up “Wanted” posters for Shannon’s friend, the elusive Bill “Big Moxy” Marshall.
5. Filming our workout tape, Body by Denali, guaranteed to deliver muscle loss in 22 days.

Once we complete all these side quests, I think we unlock a free ride to the top.

-  RMI Climber Jason

Wednesday, May 28, 2025 - 7:27 pm PT

We’ve officially made it to Talkeetna! After a long travel day yesterday for most of the team, we all finally met up at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north. A few hours (and some great scenery) later, we rolled into Talkeetna, dropped our gear at K2, and made a beeline for Denali BrewPub. Over burgers and beers, we got to know each other a bit better—swapping stories and sharing what brought each of us to Denali this season.

This morning kicked off our first full day together, and it was a busy one. We started with a deep dive into the packing list, making sure everyone is dialed for the climb ahead. Mid-morning, we took a short walk over to the National Park Service office for our official briefing. We were lucky to have fellow RMI guide Alan Davis—who’s also working for the Park this season—lead our session. Afterward, it was back to the hangar for final packing, sorting group gear, and manifesting everything to get ready for tomorrow’s flight.

The team is looking strong, stoked, and ready to get this expedition rolling. We’re hoping for good weather and an early flight into the Alaska Range tomorrow so we can hit the ground running. Stay tuned!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

The Four-Day Climb from May 26–29, led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and James Bealer, was unable to make a summit attempt this morning due to sustained high winds and stronger gusts. The teams remained safely sheltered at Camp Muir and will begin their descent to Paradise later this morning.

Wednesday, May 28, 2025 - 10:41 pm PT

A true rest day at 14000' Camp.  The day began with a more than filling pancake breakfast that lasted well into the late morning.  After some more lounging we began adding to our walls of snow building a true fortress. The rest of the day was filled with more eating and resting. 

That's all for now. We are set up for an anticipated snowy couple of days.

-RMI Guide Seth

Tuesday, May 27, 2025 - 9:53 pm PT

Once upon a time in a land far far away,

7  Denali climbers were sleeping dreaming of the next day. 

Before sun had risen they awoke to a rattle,

loud stoves were a burning, breakfast before the next battle.

They packed and readied getting out of warm beds,

The climbers excited for the next challenge ahead.

Folks started with cold toes up the steep mountain side,

But quickly warmed as legs churned and turned their tide.

Up the fixed lines to the climbers next cache,

They reached the spot, oh boy what a dash?!

Back down they went making truly great time.

Home for ramen dinner while the sun did still shine.

Now back in their tents, the days sure do fly by,

Dreams of the summit with hopes set sky high!

Farewell for now as guides need sleep too,

The team will check back tomorrow with updates for you!

RMI Guide Jackson Breen