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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Receive New Snow, Enjoy Weather Day

May 22, 2017 We had a warmer night due to the current snow storm that rolled in last night, a few inches of snow blanketing our tents and gear. Weather days are a breeze when you have such an engaging and talkative group. We enjoyed a casual breakfast with multiple rounds of coffee while the group shared all sorts of conversation ranging from favorite cocktails to the intricacies of interviewing international terrorists. Our day progressed with more snow, Avalanche beacon clinic, naps and skills practice. We are hoping for the weather to lighten up and move camp in the next few days. Until that point the group continues to be eager to learn, laughing often and practicing the variety of mountaineering skills taught so far. To finish the day the team engaged in group snow Yoga and began building a shrine of some sort. Time will tell. RMI Guide Leon Davis
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Aracely (Sally)—much love from the walking trail across from Bradford. I’m still walking up and down that hill without you. No snow here. Enjoy!!!

Posted by: Debra Solomon on 5/23/2017 at 6:41 pm

A big cheer from those at sea level!  Hope the gear is holding up, the boots comfy enough and the sleeping bags cozy.  In the next update can you give a quick summary of the next several days plan. To Sally meet you by the tree!  Tell Patty Cloud Computing won the Preakness.

Posted by: Gary Mouradian on 5/23/2017 at 8:26 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

May 22, 2017 We're just checking in from 14,000' Camp again. We're all doing well here, hopefully waiting for a decent weather window in order to try to go for the top. We had some snow last night and today, and winds were strong up above us. It looks like a very strong storm is set to move in here in a couple days, bringing a lot of snow and extreme winds. We're hoping for better weather in its wake. In preparation of the next storm we spent more time today reinforcing our walls. We should be all set to weather the storm. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

May 21, 2017 We had another pretty perfect day for climbing in Alaska, and we made full use of it to get up to 14,000' and dig in a new camp. It was pleasantly warm and light clouds kept it from totally frying us. After maneuvering around some initial traffic on Squirrel Hill, we were able to hit cruise control and roll past our cache from two days ago. Once at 14,000' Camp came the arduous task of digging new tent platforms and a kitchen. Our task tomorrow is to retrieve our cache and build some really, really big walls. It sounds like we've got a stronger weather system headed our way this week, so we'll prep to wait it out. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jenny Konway, Jess Matthews and team

On The Map

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Wow, Most amazing journey ever!! Good luck for the last but….. Love to the Calvert’s.  Hendrik and Natasha.

Posted by: Hendrik Muller on 5/22/2017 at 8:32 pm

Glad to hear all is well. I worry so much about you guys. Stay safe. See you soon.

      All my love mom

Posted by: Melinda on 5/22/2017 at 12:48 pm


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

May 20, 2017 We were all excited at breakfast with the thought of flying on to Denali today. With cloudy weather in town nothing was certain, so when the flight service greeted us with a big thumbs up, we jumped into action. When we hit the glacier the team climbed like they were born to do it. We had a flawless climb to camp, without any of the hiccups that are just normal as we get our feet wet starting out on a big expedition with the loads we're sporting. This sure made carrying these outrageous loads easier. So now we're in the tents resting up for another big day. The crew is psyched to get up to camp at 9600', and has certainly demonstrated the strength to do it. I'm lucky to be in the company of such a strong, nice bunch of climbers. Talk to you from 9600'. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale an JT Schmitt

On The Map

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Alaska Seminar: Team Explores Area near Radio Tower & Mt. Frances

May 21, 2017 After a brisk wake up, we stretched our legs by heading up glacier to the base of Radio Tower, east of camp. Threatening seracs and a maze of crevasses thwarted our progress further towards Radio Tower, so after a brief lesson on glaciology and safe glacier navigation, we quickly adapted our itinerary to the conditions and headed to the base of the northeast ridge of Mt. Frances instead. A thinly veiled sun and intermittent clouds provided an eerie ambience to our travel. Once at the basin, we donned crampons and practiced up and downhill climbing and cramponing techniques, a helpful review. A well-deserved downhill walk back to camp and a long-sought after dinner wrapped up another excellent day out in the hills with a most energetic and engaged team. RMI Guide Jessie & the AMS-E crew
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Patty,

Your adventure at the top of the world looks awesome! The pictures are incredible. You and Sally sure found snow! Enjoy every moment! Missing you very much but am really happy for you! I look forward to reading the updates every day. Your spirit for adventure is inspiring. I love you!
John

Best wishes for safe travels to all of the team on your Alaskan journey!

Posted by: John Kudla on 5/22/2017 at 7:11 pm

Truly amazing. I cannot wait to hear ALL of th Epic Adventures that come out of this trip! It will take many miles of running to cover everything and I am looking forward to every sentence and every mile! Be safe about everything! Hugs and love to all xoxoxo regina, the “other” bffmg

Posted by: Regina on 5/22/2017 at 11:49 am


Mt.Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Enjoy Beautiful Day on Top

RMI Guides Kel Rossiter and Solveig Waterfall led their Four Day Summit Climb May 19 - 22, 2017 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Kel reported mostly clear skies with very lights winds. The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am and will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. They will end their day with a celebration of their accomplishment at Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Explore La Paz

Hola! The sun has set on our first day in Bolivia! The group just returned after a great tour through La Paz. We checked out the fruit filled markets, quiet plazas and even had the opportunity to ride the gondola up to the rim of the city and into it's sister town El Alto. La Paz sits in a valley at the toe of the altiplano, or high plains, and the gondola brings commuters out of the valley, and 500 meters up onto the steppe. Our timing couldn't have been better as the sun was setting on the Altiplano upon arrival. From our vantage we could look out over the city and see our climbing objectives Huayna Potosi and Illimani standing tall against the plains. we are regrouping in a moment and we will head out for our kick-off dinner and celebration. RMI Guide Eric Frank
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Hey Kimmer!! Yea baby!! #smashville-Lucky is so happy the Preds won!! Have fun and stay safe on your climb- are you climbing Chimichanga or Charro first?? You’ll be awesome sauce either way xoxoxo Lora, Sophia & Michael

Posted by: Lora Sue on 5/23/2017 at 7:13 am

Hi sweetheart-
I, as well as Bud, Jesse, Taira and Adryan) are praying non-stop for you, your guides and your climbing mates.  Tell Kim that the Predators won as her papa had hoped.  I sure wish the Wild were in the mix but we’ll have to wait until next year I guess. It looks like a soggy week for you so stay warm and take it slow.  Love you, sweetheart!  Mama

Posted by: Bird on 5/23/2017 at 5:17 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Reinforce Camp at 14k

May 21, 2017 We had another chilly day at 14 Camp as the the sun never poked out from the overcast sky. We spent a several of hours reinforcing the snow walls surround our tents in anticipation of a significant upcoming storm. We're planning to hunker down, weather the storm, and hope to have decent weather for a summit push on the flip side. Time will tell... As we were reinforcing our camp, we were joined by the RMI Denali team led by Pete Van Deventer as they moved into 14 Camp. They're busy building camp and adjusting to the thin air up here as I write this. We'll keep you in the loop with how the weather treats us. RMI Guide Mike Walter ...Happy anniversary Kelly!

On The Map

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Rooting for good weather after this storm…hopefully you all aren’t running our of movie quotes and limericks! Or sriracha…

Hang in there though, as the Dude would say “Strikes and gutters, ups and downs.”

Thom and Todd…hurry back so you all can catch the Preds win the Stanley Cup!

 

 

Posted by: Rob on 5/22/2017 at 8:35 am

Mike, David, Todd and Thom, You guys will make it this time. Best wishes! Lei

Posted by: Lei on 5/22/2017 at 6:02 am


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Prep and Pack in Talkeetna

May 20, 2017 A visit to the National Park Service to sign in for our expedition followed our team meeting this morning. Good stuff was covered at both get togethers, and set the tone for a safe, fun, and otherwise successful trip. And then the work began, starting with checking the ton of gear we all have, the group gear and food we'll be taking, and packing all this stuff up so we can actually move someplace tomorrow. We certainly couldn't have fit more into the day. As we were working, the clouds of the morning finally gave way to clear skies this evening, just in time for us to enjoy a last dinner together under an Alaskan sun that never really sets. Halibut, reindeer meatloaf and local brews were on order - menu items we'll not see for some time. We're all really enjoying one another's company already, and I look forward to starting our climb in the morning, provided the skies stay reasonably clear overnight. We'll be in touch tomorrow, hopefully from the Kahiltna Glacier. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
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Wishing the team good weather tomorrow.
Wanted the team to know Tommy makes the best pizza!
We love the reports!
Love to Tommy and Alex
Aunt Elisa and Uncle Garrick

Posted by: Aunt Elisa and Uncle Garrick on 5/28/2017 at 5:48 pm

Hello JT,
Looks like you are making great progress! I sent the blog to the entire fam, so we are all checking the blog daily and talk about your progress constantly.

I am so grateful for this blog. It really helps to alleviate the mom worry :)

Good luck to you and all your team. Sounds like you have a wonderful group!

Love you,
M

Posted by: ellen smith eaton on 5/25/2017 at 8:29 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

May 20, 2017 The 11,000' Camp Diner opened for business late this morning, though still before the sun warmed its patrons' bones. The menu had one question: with or without. Bagels and cream cheese with or without bacon. It turned into a beautiful day, and we got some National Geographic worthy photos of Mt. Foraker and the Kahiltna stretching out below us. Lots of naps, reading, movies, and some time catching up with our good friends and RMI Guides Robby and Lucas from Mike W's team rounded out the day. Tomorrow, back to the grindstone, as we move up to 14,000' and dig in. Everyone is looking forward to the good living of 14 Camp. Until tomorrow, RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

On The Map

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Keep up the hard work Jordan! Pinnacle is excited for your journey, big climb ahead, we know you can do it! Should’ve taken the dogs ;)

Posted by: Chris Streno on 5/22/2017 at 6:13 am

Great to have a rest day- hope you able to keep warm and get some reserve sleep in the tank. How thoughtful of the climbers to rise early and deliver breaky in bed to the guides - tales from the dreamtime ! Hope the weather holds for the hard slog ahead -safe climbing to you all - with kind thoughts P and V.

Posted by: Philip and Vonne Calvert on 5/21/2017 at 10:02 pm

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