Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Ski
There's a saying I've always liked to believe, that your abilities in the mountains are inversely proportional to your abilities in the city. Whether or not this is true, I was more than happy to hand over the reigns to Svetlana this morning, our Russian tour guide. She took us on a very interesting and informative journey through Moscow, with emphasis on the Kremlin and Red Square (she speaks perfect English). A sensory overload of history, beautiful architecture, and tourists concluded with a delicious lunch at a traditional Georgian restaurant - an unmarked hidden gem down a side street, through a parking lot, around a corner, and down a staircase.
Tomorrow we fly to Mineralnye Vody, and head for the mountains! We're ready...
RMI Guide Tyler Reid & Team
The Four Day Summit Climb June 16 - 29, 2016 made their summit attempt this morning but turned back after reaching Ingraham Flats due to high avalanche danger. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the team returned to safely to Camp Muir. The team began their descent to Paradise at 8:00 am PT.
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Hannah McGowan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
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June 18, 2016 - 8:58 pm PT
Remember how yesterday we told ya'll that despite the high clouds and other warning signs of low pressure that the weather was holding? Well, it sure isn't anymore. We delayed our departure from Camp 1 by a few hours and caught a lull that lasted long enough for us to travel to 9,600 Camp comfortably. We established camp and chilled the afternoon away as the winds and snow built. We are well fed, warm, and snuggled in for the night, hoping that the weather allows us to travel to 11,000 Camp in the morning. Only time will tell, but for now the psyche is high.
Love to everybody,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
June 18, 2016 - 7:51 pm PT
We woke up this morning at 3:00 AM to a wet snow fall on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. I personally stayed up all morning waiting for it to taper off. Finally at 6 we decided to push to the runway and see if we could get a flight out today. After a couple hours of walking we turned the corner and started up the Southeast Fork, aka Heartbreak Hill. At this point we heard some planes began landing and with the shear excitement of beer and burgers we made our way up to the landing strip. The weather was in and out so we didn't all get flights out immediately but throughout the early afternoon we all got off the glacier and flew back to Talkeetna. We are currently having dinner at the West Rib and preparing for a big night of celebration.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
June 18, 2016 - 7:18 pm PT
It was anyone's guess how today would turn out based on the snow piling up on our tents this morning. We dragged our feet a little before downing a cup of coffee and packing up our camp. We pushed down the glacier in a near whiteout, unsure if any planes would venture into the Alaska Range today. After a great trip the team was ready to head home, but we had to still wait and see what Denali had in store for us. As we descended, the visibility improved and it began to look like some fancy flying might just get us to a shower after all. The weather continued to cooperate and it wasn't long before the awesome pilots at K2 had us back in the land of green forests, running water and options for food. And like that we left the Range after a few great weeks with our teammates.
It was an exceptional adventure, made great by the team who shared the effort to make it happen. Thanks to all involved for making it happen and we will all be home soon!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and Team called at 2:25 pm PST to let us know they have flown off of the mountain and expect to land in Talkeetna shortly.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
RMI Guide Jake Beren and Team called at 2:25 pm PST to let us know they have flown off of the mountain and expect to land in Talkeetna shortly.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Greetings,
Our whole team is here in Moscow and we just finished up a nice first dinner together. Everyone did great overcoming our first challenge - walking back to the hotel in a severely down-pouring lightning storm. With jet lag. Everyone passed the test with flying colors. And flashes of light.
We're looking forward to a great trip!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Reid and Team
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Summit Climb June 15 - 18, 2016 was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today due to avalanche danger. RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Mike Uchal led their teams to Ingraham Flats before making the decision to turn back. All climbers are back at Camp Muir where they will rest and repack before beginning their descent to Paradise later this morning.
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
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June 18, 2016 - 12:40 am PT
Hi all, sorry there hasn't been a dispatch since we summited, we've been busy and on the move a lot. The team did a fantastic job climbing the Upper Rib yesterday and we all made the summit just after 7:00 PM. After some hugs, photos, and congratulations we began our descent down to 17 Camp on the West Buttress. Thirteen hours after we started climbing we were crawling into our tents, exhausted but very satisfied with our accomplishment. This morning we woke up early to get low on the mountain before the 50 mph forecasted winds rolled in this afternoon. I am truly amazed at how strong this team is, even after a big summit day everyone climbed very well as we made our way down the Buttress and fixed lines to 14 Camp. Here we took about an hour to retrieve our cache and re pack before we hit the trail to 11 Camp. I thought for sure folks would be tired at 11 camp, but no. We dug up our cache here rigged for traveling with sleds and kept descending. We are currently at the base of Ski Hilll, 7800', getting a little rest and waiting for the cold of the night before we walk the lower Kahiltna Glacier back to the landing strip. Weather permitting we will be on board an airplane first thing in the morning.
Thanks so much for following along throughout our expedition
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib Team
On The Map
WOW! I just finished reading all the posts and looking at the beautiful pics & I am in awe of all you (collectively) have accomplished! I guess to say u feel “on top of the world” would likely be an understatement! Safe journey to all on ur decent! Can’t wait to hear the stories!
Posted by: Sara & James on 6/18/2016 at 7:08 am
Thanks to the great guides who did such a wonderful job getting this team up to the summit and safely back down again. Your knowledge of the mountain, the weather patterns, and your decisions about when to advance or when to stay put make all the difference. Thanks a million to all of you. You’re the best!!!
Posted by: Bud on 6/18/2016 at 8:48 pm
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