Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Hey RMI. This is Dave Hahn calling in a dispatch from 9,500' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We had a small snow storm last night at 7,800'. Started about 1:00 or 2:00 a.m. until about 5:30 a.m. with about 6" new snowfall. We delayed our plans for climbing a couple of hours. We were going to get a really early start. But then after breakfast at about 8:00 a.m., it was looking good so we moved up to 9,500'. It ended up being a beautiful day and wonderful conditions.
We've got the whole place all to ourselves. There really hasn't been any traffic passing by in either direction once we got started, so pretty pleasant. There's low clouds below but above it's all clear and we're really enjoying the weather and conditions. Everybody is in a good mood this evening. All for now.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hello from Quito. We had a great day of climbing today, beginning with an alpine start at midnight. The weather was overcast, breezy, and very humid for the first hour or so of our climb. But, as luck would have it, the clouds dissipated, the wind ceased, and the temperature was perfect for climbing. We climbed swiftly up the glaciated slopes of Cayambe, and arrived at the large summit Bergschrund just before 7 a.m. Without an obvious ramp or snowbridge to cross, we decided that we had had a great climb on a beautiful morning, and that we had reached our summit at 18,700', just 200' shy of the top of Cayambe. We did enjoy a nice long break up top, with great views of the volcanoes and Quito to the south, Columbia to the north, and the rainforest to the east!
After descending, we quickly packed up and headed back to Quito for a shower and some good food.
We will be headed back to the states tomorrow. Thanks for checking in on our progress!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
We are enjoying the beautiful and interesting indigenous market in Otovalo this morning. Our senses are overwhelmed here-- with all of the colors of the woven textiles, the smells of various types of local dishes, and the hustle and bustle of Saturday's market.
After lunch we will head up to the climbers' hut on Cayambe, and get in position for our summit attempt tomorrow morning. I will be in touch tomorrow.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Buenas Tardes from Ecuador; Today is a rest day in between climbing Cotopaxi and Cayambe. We traveled north through the Avenue of Volacoes on the Panamerican Highway this morning, heading closer to our next climbing objective: Cayambe. We stopped in Quito for lunch and to say goodbye to our teammates Robin and Sean, who successfully climbed Cotopaxi with us as part of the Cotopaxi Express trip. We had a blast climbing with them, and are sad to see them leave.
After lunch we continued north to the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, Guachala. We are settled-in for the evening in this relaxing atmosphere, and we will rest up for Cayambe. Tomorrow morning we will head to the world-famous Otovalo market in the morning, before driving up to the climbers' hut on Cayambe to stage for our summit attempt. I will give update again tomorrow.
This morning we left for our summit attempt on Cotopaxi at 1:15 am. A starry night and a light breeze greeted us as we ascended the slopes above the climbers' hut. The weather stayed beautiful, and our team climbed strong. At 7:30 all of us stood on the 19,347 foot summit of Cotopaxi-six hours and fifteen minutes after starting. Climbing conditions were great, and summit views were vast; from southeast to northeast we could see all ten of the 5000+ meter volcanoes of Ecuador: Sangay, El Altar, Tungurahua, Chimborazo, Carihuairazu, Iliniza north and south, Cayambe, and Antisana-and Cotopaxi was under our feet!
After a half hour of rest and photos on the summit, we began our descent. The climbing conditions remained excellent and we arrived back at the climbers' hut by 10:00. We spent an hour or so at the hut, resting and rehydrating, before hiking 15 minutes down to our waiting vehicle.
We are now at the Hacienda La Cienega, enjoying hot showers and delicious food.
Congratulations to Robin, Sean, and Sherman on their successful ascent of Cotopaxi!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Dave's team arrived at K2 Aviation at 11:00 a.m. ready to fly onto Denali. They loaded the planes and headed out only to turn back as the weather window at the airstrip closed down. However, at 6 p.m. Talkeetna time the weather at basecamp cleared and they were expecting to fly onto the glacier.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
After starting the morning with breakfast burritos, coffee, and tea, we hiked out to the glacier to review climbing skills--such as cramponing and ice axe arrest. The rest of the day is spent resting, eating and drinking, and preparing for our summit attempt tonight/tomorrow morning.
The weather is looking good right now: partly cloudy skies and light wind. Cross your fingers for us that it stays that way! Everyone is feeling strong and climbing well. I will be in touch tomorrow.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
After breakfast and meeting with the National Park Service, we went shopping and gathered up all our equipment for our upcoming adventure. Tonight we will enjoy downtown Talkeetna with dinner at the steakhouse in anticipation of flying onto the glacier tomorrow.
The clouds cleared last night, and we had a beautiful view of a moonlit Cotopaxi and a starry sky (with views of both the North Star and the Southern Cross) as we went to bed. After a restful night and a great breakfast at the hacienda Chilcabamba, we headed off into Cotopaxi National Park. An hour hike from the end off the road led us to the Cotopaxi climbers' hut--a spacious, clean, and comfortable hut at 16,000'.
This afternoon we are resting, drinking hot tea, and getting used to the thin air at this altitude.
Tomorrow we will hike to the glacier to review essential climbing skills before our summit attempt, which will begin with an alpine start tomorrow night.
We left Quito this morning and traveled south on the Panamerican highway, headed for the Iliniza volcanoes for another training hike. We hiked to an altitude of 15,700', where we took a break in the Iliniza climbing hut. After descending, we drove to the beautiful and rustic Chilcabamba Hacienda, nestled on the flanks of Cotopaxi. Tomorrow we'll head up to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi and get in position for our summit attempt. Everyone is doing well. Saludos from Robin, Sherman, Sean, & Mike!
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