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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team On Descent to Airstrip

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 1:28 am PT

Denali's 17,000' Camp is a necessary evil. It's not particularly pleasant to exist there, even when it's nice out. With our objective secured yesterday, we were all ready to get out of that high and forlorne place. We set out today to get as far from 17,000' Camp as we could. We descended the West Buttress, down the fixed lines to 14,000' Camp. After some socializing with the other teams at 14,000'. We set our goal again with the intention of getting to 11,000ft. It has been snowing quite a bit since we passed these locations. There was a good boot track in, but there was well over 12 inches of new snow blanketing the Polo Field and Windy Corner. We'll wake up early and rally to the airstrip with the hope that we can fly first thing tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Snow camping is fun, especially at altitude, but all anyone can talk about is beer and burgers, and it is time for a shower and feeling warm once again.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climbs Reach Summit

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Ben Luedtke led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Dustin reported broken clouds and light to moderate winds as the teams were ascending the Ingraham Direct early this morning.  The teams enjoyed some time in the crater before beginning their descent.  The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a short rest and to pack their gear before descending the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later today.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations all!  Excited to follow in your footsteps this weekend!

Posted by: Keith on 5/30/2023 at 4:27 pm

Congratulations to Devin and the team.  Can’t wait to hear about the adventure!

Posted by: Karm on 5/30/2023 at 9:53 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Reach Summit!

The RMI May 7th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guide Mike Walter, reached the summit of Denali Monday May 29th. The team has safely returned to their 17,000' and will continue their descent to the airstrip over the next few days.

Congratulations to all the climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Mike, Just wanted to say Hello from your old friend The Leprechaun. I made life long friends on that trip. Hope your still laughing.

Posted by: DAVID E WOODS on 3/26/2024 at 10:58 am

Mike Walter:  How many consecutive summits is this for you on Denali?!  Congratulations!

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 6/22/2023 at 10:08 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Check in After Summit

Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 8:26 am PT

We finally got everything to come together. It was calm and quiet in the morning and we got out of camp early, ahead of everyone else. The Autobahn had filled in and took some work and time to put a track in, across to Denali Pass. It was shady and cold, but the team worked well. At Denali Pass, we stepped into the sun and also a touch of wind - just a light breeze. It kept things cold and we continued to work up. At points we would lose the wind and it would suddenly turn so hot, then back to cold. We played that game to the Football Field, and then up the summit ridge. By midafternoon we were standing on the summit of Denali! The summit was pretty warm and we got some photos before turning against traffic and the rest of the mountain. We retraced our steps to camp and fell into bed, happy to have the first part of the mission accomplished. Now we will set our sights lower on getting to thicker air and the airstrip.

Congrats to all the climbers!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Why do when you can overdo? We love you Chris!

Posted by: Shan on 5/30/2023 at 3:43 pm

Congratulations Adam! Have a safe trip down everyone see ya soon!

Posted by: Matt & Erica Warren on 5/30/2023 at 2:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Remain at 14,000ft Waiting out weather

Monday, May 29, 2023 - 11:12 pm PT

Another, you guessed it, weather day for us. As it snowed almost all night, we slept in and had a slow breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and we had very little visibility around camp. Folks did normal rest day activities, like walk around camp, meet other teams, rebuild our bathroom into a new palace and change out our socks. We are waiting for a three day weather window to make our way safely to 17,000', to the summit, and home. Until then we continue to check all the weather resources we have available, and try to stay sane.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Hoping the weather cooperates and you are soon on your way to the top!  Good luck Matt and team, thinking of you all!

Posted by: Kathleen George on 5/31/2023 at 5:36 am

Hi Leif and Team - thinking of you and wishing you a safe successful Summit climb as soon as weather permits-

Posted by: Erika Whittaker on 5/30/2023 at 5:50 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Reach Denali Summit!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from the summit of Denali at 5:50 pm PT on Monday, May 29th.  The team returned to their high camp at 17,000' around 1 am PT.

Congratulations to the May 9th Denali Expedition!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brian….So proud of you and your team!  You did it!!  It will be so much fun to hear all about it.  Be safe!

Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/30/2023 at 6:21 pm

Amazing!!!
Now please come back safely!

Posted by: Lyds on 5/30/2023 at 3:08 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Carry Gear Above Fixed Lines

Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 8:50 pm PT

Hello readers,

Today we woke to descent weather for our carry. It was cold and crisp with clouds flowing here and there. We took off still in the shadows. In not too long we were in the sun with a breeze. We were one of the first people to leave camp and get to the fixed lines. They were icy but with great steps that made it feel secure. This is a steep portion of the mountain and the team gave it their all. After a several hours we were at the top of the fixed lines. There we decided to cache our gear and use the rest of our energy to get down safely. The clouds finally rolled fully in and snow began to fall. We made it back to camp surrounded by white. It has been a long hard day and we are all ready for some rest and that's exactly what we will do tomorrow.

So good night all,

RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lookin forward to more good weather updates! Hope that ramen from the last update is treating you well, it’s making me want some ramen too. Can’t imagine it hits as hard in 75°F weather as it does up on Denali, though. Keep goin strong Corey!!

Anna + Bennett (who literally just had wisdom teeth removed but he wishes you the best in spirit)

Posted by: Anna Nolan on 5/31/2023 at 11:35 am

Hey Hannah! Sending Best wishes and Strength and Stamina to You and Team Tatas!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/30/2023 at 3:23 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Halt Summit Attempt Due to Weather

Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 6:42 pm PT

Today didn't work out exactly as planned. When we got up it was calm as promised, but a complete white out in camp. Snow was falling lightly, straight down. We dragged our feet to see how it would evolve. As the sun came up, the clouds did push up a bit, and with some sight it was clear the wind was moving strong up high. Within a few hours, that wind made it to camp as well. So we spent the day in the tents dodging intermittent snow showers and wind gusts.

We are hoping that tomorrow brings us better summit weather and that Mother Denali let's us pass.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck to you and the team!

Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/29/2023 at 3:53 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Await Weather at High Camp

May 28, 2023 12:01 PM PT

We hoped for a repeat of yesterday's weather, but instead we got light snow and wind. Definitely not a summit day.

So we're resting inside our tents inside a ping pong ball. Spirits are high despite today's weather wrinkle. Hopefully tomorrow we'll be able to climb.

We stocked our camp with plenty of food and fuel, so we're able to wait it out a few days. Until next time, we'll be counting the ripstop nylon squares in our tents, dreaming of a sunny and calm day for climbing.

Mike

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Well done!  Very impressive!  Safe journey back to Talkeetna- where the beer is cold and the pizza is hot!!!  Yeah!  You did it!!!  Susan

Posted by: Susan on 5/30/2023 at 10:38 pm

Congratulations! What an accomplishment :-) safe travels on the way down. You should be very proud of yourselves.

Elysia hey

Posted by: Elysia Morrison on 5/30/2023 at 9:42 am


Mt. Rainier: Four-Day Team Stands On Top!

The Four-Day climbing teams led by RMI guides Steve Gately and Christina Dale reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported some light route traffic and a great climbing route.

They will return back to Camp Muir for a quick rest break before descending back to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this evening to celebrate their success!

Nice work team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

BE EPIC. Today. Tomorrow. And every single day after that. Congratulations Anthony, Payson, and the entire team on an epic adventure!!

Brenda and Abby Gerlach

Posted by: Brenda and Abby on 5/28/2023 at 9:36 am

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