Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Friday, May 24, 2019 11:08 PM PT
Last night the forecast called for increasing snow and wind, but we woke up this morning to find that to be 100% incorrect. Skies were clear all the way down the
Kahiltna and all the way to the summit. We packed up camp early in an attempt to beat the heat, and it worked out pretty well. We got moved in to our new home around 2pm, got a quick nap in, and ate a lot of food. Now we’re all relaxing in our tents and heading towards sleep. It’s always a long day getting up here, but the team handled it with grace and style.
Tomorrow we will retrieve our cache that is just downhill. It should be a short day, with a lot of relaxing and resting in the afternoon. Everyone is in good health and good spirits, though a few folks are concerned about NBA results.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
Friday, May 24, 2019 11:03 PM PT
There is nothing better than starting your day with a pancake bigger than your face and your morning commute on an otter plane. The clouds stayed at bay and we were able to fly on to the
Kahiltna Glacier. The views are mesmerizing. Words cant explain how beautiful it all is. We gathered are things from the plane, said goodbye to our pilots, and settled into camp. Excitement continues to grow for what is to come in the next week. But for now we are snuggled into out tents ready to catch some Z's.
Talk to you all tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
Friday, May 24, 2019, 7:58 PM PT
Hello from the Great Ruth Gorge!
The magnitude of this place soon relieved the delay of not being able to fly yesterday. Cruising over a 35-mile long glacier to then land and camp under the massive 5,000ft East Face of Mount Dickey is indescribable. After a couple of hours crafting a classy camp, kitchen included, we treated ourselves to a nice diner of halibut burger with a side of fresh asparagus; definitely not your standard meal on the mountains. Heading to bed now as we're trying our first climbing objective early tomorrow.
Regards, Lucy, Corell and RMI Guide
ElÃas de Andres Martos
We enjoyed a full night's rest and had a leisurely morning of coffee and eggs as we packed up our gear to head to our high camp at about 5200 meters on
Huayna Potosi. The strong wind abated overnight and left us with blue skies and sun for our two-hour walk to high camp. We are all resting and relaxing as we will attempt to summit Huanya Potosi tomorrow at 6088 meters. Everyone is doing great in anticipation of the big day tomorrow!
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Friday, May 24, 2019, 3:49 PM PT
Last night was warm (for
14,200' on Denali) and we woke to clear, calm skies. It looks like it would be a good day to move up high, but there is a strong weather front forecast for this weekend and we weren't quite ready to make a dash uphill to try to take advantage of this short weather window. Instead, we're taking another rest day and enjoying the sun and warm temps.
We took a rope team up the fixed lines again today to get some exercise and stretch the legs, anticipating another few rest days in our near future.
The team is doing well and we're in position to strike when our weather window appears.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
RMI Guide Walter Hailes checked in this morning from Camp Muir. The
Muir Seminar team is back from their summit bid. Due to unstable snow conditions, the teams turned after Ingraham Flats. The team had a mix of weather during their week-long seminar- some spectacular views and also some stormy weather of high winds and blowing snow. They learned a lot of mountaineering skills to take home with them after a week on Mount Rainier.
The starry skies that covered us when we went to bed gave way to a thick cloud deck and by 5am this morning it was blowing and snowing on our tents in
Condoriri Basecamp. Thankfully the team all slept hard from our efforts the day before and by the time we started breakfast at 8am only a thin dusting of snow and partly cloudy skies remained.
This set us up perfectly for a relaxed day of travel. After breaking down the tents, we hiked out of the valley and met the transport vehicles.
Even though only 20 odd miles separate the Condoriri Valley from Huayna Potosi the terrain requires back tracking through the edge of La Paz, making the trip closer to three hours. We were rewarded with incredible views of the mountain, which grew larger and more stunning as we arrived at our refugio.
This evening the team is relaxing and enjoying a reset before our next big push.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Thursday, May 23, 2019, 10:36 PM PT
Good evening lower 48, it is us up here in the northern state of Alaska. The team gathered this afternoon in the Anchorage airport with a high stoke level for what is to come in the next ten days. The next ten days will bring beautiful views of pristine glaciated terrain that will be our
classroom for learning the skills needed to do a Denali Expedition in the future. We made our way to Talkeetna, the launching pad to Denali and are all getting use to the 24-hour light as we settle into our hotel. Tomorrow will be a busy day of packing and shuffling gear so we can hopefully fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier.
Keep your fingers crossed for blue skies,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Thursday, May 23, 2019, 6:17 PM PT
We went to sleep last night surrounded by some of the biggest, most beautiful mountains on earth. When we woke up this morning, all we could see was white. Our blue skies had been replaced by clouds and light snow. Luckily, the change in weather did nothing to slow our progress. We rolled out of our tents, packed up what seemed like a totally unreasonable amount of food and gear, and then headed uphill. We hauled our packs and sleds up to 10,000', dug a hole in the snow, and buried all of our things. In a few days time we will be back to retrieve them, and move them farther up hill. After squirreling away our gear, we boogied back down to camp. The team made excellent work of the downhill, which is always a good sing. We are all dried out and are eating burritos now. Not much else to report from the day. The view were minimal. The work was hard. The plan is to go to bed early and move our camp to 11,000' tomorrow if the weather cooperates. Either way, we are having a great time here on the Kahiltna!
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
Thursday, May 23, 2019 3:28 pm PT
Today the team focused on fortifying camp, finishing the snow walls that shield our tents from the wind. The
Mountain treated us to beautiful morning views above the clouds while we worked, but the weather turned snowy by afternoon. Later in the day, the team practiced using ascenders in order to be prepared for our eventual trip up the fixed lines. Weather allowing, we are hoping to put those skills into practice tomorrow, leaving a cache of summit food at 16,000 feet.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
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Reading and smiling about this adventure. Love you’re listening to the mountain and her weather and VERY glad you had a beautiful window today. More pics please! Climb on.
Posted by: Jane Gagnon Baxter on 5/25/2019 at 10:22 am
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