Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Hello from Khumjung.
We did retraced our steps from the mountain and we are back in this guide's favorite Sherpa village of the Khumbu. We're going to earn some good rest before starting our approach to Ama Dablam.
The climb of Kyajo Ri remains now as an incredible challenge that we overcame with determination, and we know that while an objective worth a trip to the Himalaya on its own, it has been the best preparation for Ama Dablam.
Now it's time to sleep, eat & repeat!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
We got an early start to our summit day. The first section is a steep scree slope, a big bite to chew when you wake up at midnight. As we gained the ridge we were surprised by the amount of snow, making for efficient climbing. The weather was warm for 15,000’+ and light winds allowed us to wear a few layers and stay comfortable while winding up and down the five false summits of Ixtaccihuatl.
With the city lights glowing in each direction and shooting stars across the horizon the Team kept plugging away until we reached the summit.
So many climbs ascend with the sunrise to thier backs. The unplanned benefit to summiting in the dark was that we descended into the rising sun with stellar views of Orizaba poking through the clouds. Alpineglow on the snow flanked sides of Ixta was a nice reward.
We are back down and headed to Puebla for a day of rest, culture and tacos al pastor. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Greetings from Kyajo Ri Camp 1. What a day we had!!! We departed with headlamps and returned with headlamps... Having to forego our move to Camp 2 yesterday due to the high winds, delivered not only a beautiful day today, but a marathon one. Regardless, we wanted to reach the elevation of Kyajo's summit to better prepare for Ama Dablam. So we did!
Now everyone is very tired, and we look forward to some rest coming up.
Regards,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Well deserved rest!!!! Omg!!
Be safe!
Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/7/2018 at 4:45 pm
Today we woke to what might be the clearest morning of the Mexican countryside one might ever see. With the massive populations of Mexico City and Puebla the view is usually obscured with smoke, volcanic fog, smog. This morning we could make out high rise buildings and had a crystal clear view of Orizaba.
The Team took four hours to ascend to High Camp, located at 15,500’. We had warm weather and heavy packs. Everyone is relaxing in their tents as afternoon clouds roll through.
We will have some dinner and prepare for our summit bid tomorrow morning. Should be a nice day if the recent weather holds.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Hello from Kyajo Ri Camp 1,
All is good here, except that we had an extraordinarily windy day, preventing us from moving up to Camp 2. We did, however, take some of our gear to the base of the gullie that provides access to it, as we plan on attempting the summit from here.
The sun is shining and the spirits are high! We are going to bed early, so cheer for us on our push to summit our first objective here.
Regards,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Hoping for optimal weather for you all. Sounds like a great crew that can prevail no matter what!
Stay safe
Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/6/2018 at 8:53 am
Hoping for optimal weather for you all. Sounds like a great crew that can prevail no matter what!
Stay safe
Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/6/2018 at 8:53 am
This is Mike checking in from the lower flanks of Ixta. Today we had a casual breakfast and a two plus hour drive to the National Park where our first climbing objective is. We are at a hut looking out on the snow covered peaks of Ixta and Popo. There has been lots of rain this week which means good climbing conditions. The Team has been taking in the scenic countryside in between some short walks to acclimate. We have our gear checked and are getting ready for a delicious dinner before turning in for the night. Tomorrow we head to High Camp to get ready for a summit bid. Fingers crossed for good weather and calm winds.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Wishing for good weather for the team. Good luck for your summit on Wednesday!!
Posted by: Jon & Lynda Jones on 11/5/2018 at 9:43 pm
Good evening again from Camp 1 of Kyajo Ri! We made the move under incredible weather today, and our camp by the lake at the toe of the glacier is worth a trip to the Himalaya by itself.
We're in a good position, and we'll continue to make progress tomorrow, so stay tuned!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Hi, this is Mike with the Mexico Volcanoes program. Everyone arrived yesterday with all our bags and we spent the night in Mexico city. We loaded our vehicle this morning and toward the mountains. We had a nice, casual day today. Lots of rain and thunderstorms kept us from hiking La Malinche. The group is hanging out watching some football and we are going to sleep tonight around 10,000', the former training center for the Mexican Olympic team. We'll be heading over to Ixta tomorrow. We will be checking in every day from here on out. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Good luck. Hopefully the weather is good for your summits.
Posted by: Jon Jones on 11/4/2018 at 7:54 pm
Good evening from Kyajo Ri Base!
We made our move from the village of Khumjung this morning uneventful. Beautiful day indeed witnessing some of the towering peaks nearby getting just a little smaller.
The beautiful meadow where we are is enclosed under steep granite walls, and while the views are short, they sure provide a sense of greatness above us.
My colleague, Sherpa guide Lopsang added to the mysticism of the night by burning some juniper as an offer to the God that might inhabit Kyajo Ri; with His blessings, we will go to sleep in hopes He grants us passage tomorrow into the higher grounds of Camp 1.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Thanks for the updates. Good luck this week.
Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/4/2018 at 10:28 am
Namaste from Khumjung.
We are taking an extra day here, based on the wind forecast for the next few days. This way we don't find ourselves up high on Kyajo Ri in a bad spot.
We did, regardless, go for a walk towards the pass that will take us tomorrow towards base camp; a nice way to spend the morning and continue to let the body work acclimatizing.
A local momo feast (local Nepali dumpling) near our lodge wrapped up the morning, and we chilled for the rest of the day.
Hopefully the excitement of the actual climb starts in a few hours!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Good luck team !! Safe Climb! Try to enjoy the beauty along with this challenge adventure thanks for the update and the photos.
Posted by: Theresa Greving on 11/3/2018 at 7:33 pm
Excellent. Get some rest for Saturday!!
Posted by: Jon & Lynda Jones on 11/7/2018 at 12:38 pm
View All Comments