Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Starts Their Expedition

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

The Upper West Rib team assembled today at the Anchorage airport and started our journey north to Talkeetna. All of us are excited to have the trip underway. We have lots of logistics and preparing to take care of, but that will start tomorrow. Tonight we are going to get settled into our hotel, have some dinner, and relax. That's all for now, thank you for following along with us as our adventure begins. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Plan to Move Up to High Camp Tomorrow

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2015 - 10:12 pm PT The weather played out as forecasted today, with strong winds blowing plumes of snow off of Denali's summit and West Buttress. We were happy to be down here at the 14,200' camp where the winds were much more manageable. We enjoyed a leisurely brunch of bacon, eggs, and bagels while the winds howled outside. Much of the rest of the day was spent reading and napping in our tents. The weather forecast looks good for us. We plan to rise early tomorrow (Friday) and make the strenuous climb to high camp at 17,200'. If all goes well, we'll shoot for the summit on Saturday. This is by far the best weather forecast that we've had all trip and we plan to take full advantage of it. We're well rested and acclimated, and eager to climb. We'll let you know how it goes. RMI Guide Mike Walter & team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to hear that the weather gods are cooperating! We wish you all an excellent summit day and look forward to the photos and stories.
Eric - ¡ Vaya con dios hijo!

Posted by: Sally Maca on 5/30/2015 at 6:17 am

Go get ‘em team! Patience pays off with Mike and Solvieg at the helm! :) enjoy the ride and views. Cheers.

Posted by: Jeff on 5/29/2015 at 6:55 pm

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McKinley: Jones and Team Ready to Fly

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Thursday, May 28th 12:32 pm PDT The team is all assembled and packed in Talkeetna! Yesterday we had a thorough gear check and sorting session in the K2 Aviation hangar. Everyone's kits are dialed and we are ready to go. It seems like we have a great team and we are hoping for a great trip. Hopefully we have some good weather today and are able to fly on! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Really enjoying the expedition blog. Photos are fun! Love you, Dev!

Posted by: Anna Smith on 5/30/2015 at 10:49 am

Stoked for you, Lee Suring, and the team on this adventure. We are all very proud of you! Looking forward to more posts and to follow you all on this journey. Sending lots of love and luck to you all! :)

Posted by: Nicole Bartschi on 5/29/2015 at 9:33 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to High Camp

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, May 28th 3:49 am PDT After so many posts about waiting for weather, this one is different. We headed for the fixed lines this morning under clear, sunny skies. The day turned into the nicest that Robby, Josh, or I have ever had on the West Buttress--warm and without a breathe of wind. Because the weather was so nice, the climbing conditions so perfect, and the group climbing so well, we decided to push all of the way to 17 Camp and leave our cache there. The climbing on the Buttress is some of the best of the entire route, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the huge views, interesting climbing, and the accomplishment of getting it done. It was a big day, just under 10 hours round trip, so everyone is knackered but elated, and we will more than likely sleep in and take a rest day tomorrow. RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt thanks to you and your team for all the updates. This has been so exciting to follow you and your team Pete on your blog. This is the day you all have been waiting for the perfect weather to climb to the top. Congrats and take lots of pictures to share with us all. We are all praying for your perfect climb. Rest and drink lots of water. Be safe and we love. I’m so proud of you.

Auntie Marilyn

Posted by: marilyn collura on 5/29/2015 at 4:47 pm

Pete thanks for the updates, fun to follow along. Brian, following along, hope to see a post that you made Camp 17 in the next day or so, best of luck to the whole team!.

Posted by: Oscar Berke on 5/29/2015 at 9:32 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2015 - 9:39 am PT In the big picture breakdown of Mt. McKinley's climbing days, it would be said that historically the move day from 11,000 foot camp to 14,000 foot camp would prove to be one of the most difficult. Today I would say that we beat the odds. We broke camp at 7 am this morning in quick time and after a delicious breakfast of instant oatmeal and instant coffee we were ready to tackle the day's first objective. Directly out of 11 camp, a swell steep uphill called Motorcycle Hill greets you. Next is Squirrel Hill and after that Windy Corner. Now I'm not sure how we have gotten in such good graces with the often grumpy weather gods but today those gods, sitting around their big weather God dinner table, decide today should be the nicest day all month. With clear skies, no wind and perfect walking temps we all zipped right through those hills and corners to a breathtaking camp here at 14,000 feet. We were in no rush because the day was so amazing so we created our own camp out of scratch and are all feeling rewarded and strong. Big move days rarely go this smooth. We could not feel more psyched for what's to come. I am thinking about you Liam. I can't wait to see you. Wishing all of our family and friends big hugs. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looks like very good, uh- great, luck so far! Have fun.

Posted by: Cathy S. on 5/29/2015 at 10:33 am

Glad for the weather. Stay strong. Enjoying the posts.

Posted by: Patty on 5/29/2015 at 10:22 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir on the Summit!

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Garrett Stevens reached Camp Muir on Monday with their team. This week has been beautiful and the team has spent their time on the mountain honing their mountaineering techniques. This morning the team left Camp Muir en route to the summit. They arrived around 6:30 am PT and were able to enjoy the blue skies and sunshine from the top. The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain and some additional training. Tomorrow after noon they will return to Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's climbers!

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What an awesome adventure! Congrats to my son Michael and Chris and the rest of the team! SO happy you made it to the summit, can’t wait to hear from you! Love you to the moon and back! ~ love, mom

Posted by: Diana on 5/29/2015 at 6:36 am

Congratulations to the team! Very proud of you, Ben!

Posted by: Gail Fine on 5/28/2015 at 9:07 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’

May 28, 2015

Posted by: Billy Haas, Solveig Waterfall, Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 27, 2015 - 10:38 pm PT We woke early this morning, ate, took down our tents and packed our backpacks. We even had our harnesses on. The weather was perfect. But after checking multiple weather resources, our decision was clear. Weather models were in agreement, forecasting gale force winds in excess of 65mph tomorrow at high camp. It would not have been prudent to risk going up high today and deal with potential tent-crushing winds tomorrow. So we unpacked and set up our tents anew. Throughout the emotional swings of this morning, our team has remained resolute. Safety is our number one priority up here in the mountains, and we will try for our summit push after tomorrow's winds abate. In fact, the forecast looks quite good for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We're optimistic that we'll have good shot to move up to high camp on Friday. In the mean time today, we're enjoying the best weather day of our whole trip. It's sunny, calm, and warm here at 14,200'. Pete Van Deventer's expedition is up high on the ridge today, caching supplies for their stint at high camp (which will likely coincide with ours). Adam Knoff's expedition rolled into camp today also, and they're busy setting up their camp. It's good to see a lot of friendly RMI climber faces here at camp. We'll keep you posted any news from our end. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Check out the Views from the Edge of the World

May 27, 2015

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 11:13 pm PT We woke to a swirling cloud cap above, that left little doubt that it was unpleasant in the West Buttress. We decided to wait the day yet again and see what tomorrow brings. We did take advantage of a break in the clouds to walk to the "Edge of the World', where Genet Basin drops almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna. The views from here are unsurpassed and everyone took turns being belayed out to the edge to snap photos. We'll give another shot at caching on the buttress tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

On The Map

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Incredible photo!!, well done to all. Feels like you’ve been gone for a lot longer than 18 days renee, I’m sure it feels like a long time for you also :) , have been keeping an eye on your teams progress and letting everyone know updates including nan ron. she misses you like we all do but we are all incredibly proud and pumped for you to accomplish your goal! Cant wait to chat all about your trip. stay safe, loads of love xxx love leigh.

Posted by: Leigh on 5/28/2015 at 4:52 am

Team PRJ… wow sounds like mother nature is flexing her muscles. Hope you are keeping warm and well fed… especially Renee. I miss you so much! Work is not the same without you here! Each morning I read the blog to Cam in the car on the way to work… he is so impressed with your progress and is sending you his love and best wishes. Its Thursday arvo here in Oz and I have just had lovely Kenny’s for lunch (jealous much.. hahahaha) and Paul baked a Banana Cake (which will never be as good as Cameron’s let’s be honest) I hope that you are getting all these messages of support and cannot wait to get an email from you when you are off the mountain. Love you lots hunny bunny… stay strong, the final stages are now in your reach! Love Kath & Cam xxxx

Posted by: Kathy on 5/27/2015 at 9:28 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait at 14 Camp and Explore the Edge of the World

May 27, 2015

Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Mike Walter, Billy Haas

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 10:33 pm PT We woke early again today, hoping for good weather to move up to high camp. But it was not to be. A large lenticular cloud, indicating strong winds, had formed over the top of Denali, extending down beyond high camp. Winds were howling up high until a little afternoon today, when the cloud dissipated for a couple hours and then reformed in the afternoon. The winds were too strong for us to safely move camp to 17,200', so we rested again at 14,200'. We took advantage of clear skies on the lower mountain to take a walk out to the "Edge of the World", a point south of our camp that looks down sheer cliffs about 5,000' down the the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The views from the Edge are surreal, and the scale is nearly incomprehensible. We're psyched to see what the weather brings tomorrow, and we're ready to take advantage of good weather when it presents itself. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 11,200’

May 26, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 26, 2015 - 7:24 pm PT I gave the team a general idea of when we might start breakfast this morning at dinner last night. I bet we get hot water started at around 8, then start pancakes and coffee shortly after that I said. I didn't even open my eyes until almost nine. While in the middle of working your way up this mountain day after day none of us realized how much we could use a rest. Today it became clear. We sat in the cook tent making fresh Pete's coffee and watching Andy flip flap jacks until almost noon. Then we took naps and soaked up the sun we haven't really seen clearly this entire trip. Now we are cooking quesadillas and packing up for our potential move to 14 Camp tomorrow. Everyone is happy to be caching dirty underwear, smelly socks and unneeded stuff for the upper mountain. It has been a beautiful rest day here at 11 Camp but after getting a great view of the upper mountain yesterday, the team feels super psyched to push this climb higher and see what unfolds. Check in tomorrow for the outcome of our hopeful move. Team Knoff saying goodnight. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Greg:

So glad to hear you are all doing so well and that you took a day to rest! Can’t wait to see how the next move goes!
Sending love from home!
Nic and Jek xox

Posted by: Angelica on 5/27/2015 at 10:36 pm

Shannon and team, hope you enjoyed your rest day. Pancakes always good to warm the belly. Climb on. Looking forward to the next post.

Posted by: patty & mark on 5/27/2015 at 12:19 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Starts Their Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Plan to Move Up to High Camp Tomorrow

McKinley: Jones and Team Ready to Fly

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to High Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

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Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir on the Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Check out the Views from the Edge of the World

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait at 14 Camp and Explore the Edge of the World

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 11,200’

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