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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team on Summit!

Update Saturday, May 30th 8:30 pm PDT Mike Walter & team were safely back at camp by 6 pm PDT. They will begin their descent to Basecamp tomorrow. Saturday, May 30th 2:40 pm PDT RMI Guide Mike Walter and team are standing on the summit of Mt. McKinley! Mike reported a strong team and and short-sleeve weather on top. The team will begin making their descent shortly and will send a dispatch when they are back at camp. Way to go team!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Totally awesome .....congratulations To RickyBobby and Ericquito!! We are so proud of you!  Can’t wait to tell you in person.  Perseverance pays off in a big way.  Looking forward to catching up at the lake.
XOXOXO your aunts and uncles in Chicago

Posted by: Maca-Mangan-Surpless on 5/31/2015 at 6:16 pm

Congratulations Solveig!  I can’t wait to see you back in Seattle.  Love you lots
TS

Posted by: sigrid on 5/31/2015 at 12:12 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Cache Some Gear Higher on the Mountain

Saturday, May 30th 2:45 am PDT Hello all! We have our gear and groceries moved up to 10,000 feet. Life is good out on the glacier for our team. Today the high pressure over the area made for very hot conditions in the low altitudes so we delayed our departure until the heat subsided late this afternoon. We are doing our best to save energy and avoid getting cooked like lobsters from the sun. Our plan worked great and after a number of hours working our way to the cache site, we quickly dug a large hole to store our gear until after we move the camp up to 11,000 feet. On our descent we enjoyed fabulous evening light while carrying our sled like a turtle shell strapped on our backs. Hot soup and a meal warmed our souls as we settle in for the night. Tomorrow evening if the hot and blue-bird weather continues, we will try to move up to our second camp and gain some acclimatization over the next few days. Stay tuned and we'll have a report when more progress has been made! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: May 30th Summit!

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb team led by JJ Justman topped out on Columbia Crest at about 7:30 this morning. JJ reported great weather and light winds of about 15 – 20 mph. After spending some time on the summit, the team began their descent about 8:20 a.m. Congratulations summit team!
Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Check Out the Edge of the World

Friday, May 29th 11:00 pm PDT Expedition life lends itself to improvisation and today gave us the perfect opportunity to think on our feet. Our original plan was to carry a load of group gear to the top of the fixed lines at 16,500' and rest a full day tomorrow. However, a strong high pressure system moved over the mountain, opening the gates to the upper mountain for all of the other teams that have been stuck at 14,000' for days. As a result, camp was extremely active today as well over a hundred climbers woke up early and began a move to high camp. The fixed lines were jammed up all day with climbers, and rather than wait in that line ourselves, our team formulated a new plan. Today became our rest day. We relaxed in the beautiful weather at camp and took an afternoon stroll to the Edge of the World. Guides Adam and Andy, studs that they are, completed the high cache on their own in the evening once the fixed lines cleared up from the folks that were moving up. Our goal tomorrow is to pack up camp early, and move ahead to high camp, putting ourselves in the perfect position to attempt a summit bid in the next few days while the good weather lasts. The team is in high spirits and feeling strong! Goodnight! RMI Guide Nick Hunt and the rest of the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Booyah - a high pressure system! Thinking of you all scrambling up those fixed lines. G Barber, you have these dialed!  Hats off to the guides for putting your team in a good summit position.  Enjoy the amazing views to high camp! xoxo, Ker

Posted by: Kerry on 5/31/2015 at 11:26 am

Wow! You have amazing guides! Looks like the weather is perfect for you guys! Go for it!! Good luck at high camp and on summit day. We’re thinking of you. Take care!

Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 5/30/2015 at 2:47 pm


Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We'll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we're ready to go. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great photos and updates. Very exciting to read. Cannot imagine what the team is experiencing. So much fun. Brian… would love to hear all about the experience once you get back. Best of luck for the next phase. Send photos from the summit.

Posted by: Faisal M on 5/30/2015 at 3:39 pm

THIS IS SO EXCITING.
GOOD LUCK TO ALL AND RENEE FOR SUMMIT DAY.
YOU ALL DESERVE THIS SUCCESS.
JORDY WILL BE FLYING OVER YOU RENEE SO HOW GOOD IS THAT HEY!!
LOVE AND LUCK TO YOU MY DARLING DAUGHTER.
ALL MY LOVE MAMA XX

 

Posted by: Lori on 5/30/2015 at 3:31 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Begin Their Summit Push

Friday, May 29th 7:00 pm PDT We woke early to perfect weather, packed up camp and headed to 17K. We have a good forecast and hope to summit tomorrow. We'll be in touch as our summit bid progresses. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

You have been so disciplined and patient.  Delighted it has paid off. Go for it and good luck.

Art Muir

Posted by: Art Muir on 5/30/2015 at 9:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Prepares in Talkeetna

Friday, May 29th 12:52pm PDT Today the UWR (Upper West Rib) McKinley team is scurrying around getting all of our gear dialed for the glacier. Planes are landing and taking off every few minutes, which keeps us motivated to stay on our tasks. Line by line we are crossing off our check lists, and the piles of food and gear are growing to epic proportions. The weather is stable right now, and it looks promising that we will fly on tomorrow. Thanks for following along. We'll update everyone from the glacier! RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Kim! I’m holding down the fort in Cincy so no worries! :)

Posted by: Maria on 6/1/2015 at 6:18 am

Hi, Kimmy.  My back hurts just looking at all that stuff you have to carry!!  Have a great time!  I’ll try and not screw up too much while you’re gone!  - Helen

Posted by: Helen on 5/31/2015 at 12:07 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Back Carry from 14,200’ Camp

May 29, 2015 10:41am PST As the sun hit our tent we woke up ready for our back carry to above windy corner. We could hear the wind in the distance scouring the buttress above us. But here at camp it was calm and brisk. Since we worked hard on our move to 14 camp and our back carry would only take a few hours, we opted for a relaxing morning before our work had to be done. After lounging in the posh till late morning we geared up and retrieved our cashed equipment and food. When we got back it was only mid afternoon, so the next task was to fortify camp with walls in case the wind decided to give us trouble. Little did we know that our team consisted of Egyptian craftsman. In no time or camp was secure.With much of the day left we took a solid break and made some fresh coffee, which is a real amenity up here. After being properly caffeinated we practice fixed line travel which will be a well needed review before cashing at 16,200. We are feeling good and are putting ourselves in a position to head higher on the mountain. With a little more acclimation and calm weather we will be ready for high camp and a bid at the summit. We are all very excited. RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I think I know who one of those Egyptian craftsmen is!

Posted by: Jessie on 5/29/2015 at 9:58 pm

Enjoy the moment.  Following each blog and the breathtaking photos.  Much love

Posted by: Carolyn Walllgren on 5/29/2015 at 5:48 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team take a Well Earned Rest Day

May 28, 2015 11:34pm PST After a big day yesterday, we took it easy today to rest up for a forthcoming summit push. We woke late and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, bacon; and hash browns which stretched into afternoon. A few hours of sorting gear, napping, and reading led into a dinner of quesadillas. Unfortunately, the meat department may be getting low... From here on out its freeze dried dinners, ramen, and oatmeal. With that in mind we savored the fresh food, and wrapped up small details for tomorrow. Everything seems to be lining up for us to move to high camp tomorrow. We'll wake early, beat the sun out of camp, and take our second stroll along the West Buttress. Everybody is excited and fired up. Keep your fingers crossed for us! RMI Guides Pete, Josh, Robby, and Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Renee and Team,
I’m so excited for you all, what an amazing journey!!
Looking forward to more news and I am so proud of you Renee.
The Summit awaits…
Keep safe .. love you heaps….. hope you see the plane overhead with Jordy in it :)
Arna ( Jordan’s Mum)

Posted by: ARNA TELFORD on 5/30/2015 at 1:01 am

Good luck team Pete !!! Can’t wait for your next post.
Matt sounds like you are having awesome weather we all hope it keeps up for your last push, we are all praying for a safe journey, I miss you bunches.  Keep up the good spirit our fingers are crossed for all of you. Everyone can’t wait for me to tell them how far you all are. Sounds like everyone is fired up and ready for the next push ! Till the next post be safe careful We love you :>)
Love,
Mom xo

Posted by: Terri on 5/29/2015 at 6:53 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Mountain

Thursday, May 28th 10:37 pm PDT We woke up this morning to blue skies in Talkeetna, which meant great weather for flying! After a meal at the roadhouse we scurried over to hangar to transition from Talkeetna street walkers to Denali climbers. With climbing boots on and smiles on our faces we enjoyed a great flight onto the mountain. Once we arrived at Basecamp the team was highly efficient organizing their gear. After a minimal amount of time at Basecamp we embarked on our journey up the Kahiltna Glacier. Several hours later we arrived at our camp for the night at 7,800'. The team immediately set up tents to shade themselves from sun and nestled in. After a delicious meal of Annie's Mac and cheese we hunkered down for the night. We will check in again tomorrow night after another day of good work. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking of you as you and the team.  Have a safe day on your way to the summit. ...mom

Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 5/30/2015 at 8:59 am

good morning Brenda, no update from Tyler so I imagine your climbing for the day was tiring.hope all went well and you got a good nights sleep

Posted by: Richard Larscheid on 5/30/2015 at 6:10 am

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