Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Yesterday's afternoon clouds cleared overnight and it was a warm, beautiful morning here in the Khumbu. Leaving our teahouse in Phakding we wound our way up the valley, traversing above the raging Dudh Kosi on steep hillsides that descend thousands of feet from the peaks above. Wherever the terrain offers a break small terraces have been carved into the hillsides and with spring arriving here in the lower Khumbu the fields of wheat and vegetables are starting to sprout while along the trail the cherry, magnolia, and rhododendron trees are in full bloom. We walked through the fields and villages, crossing back and forth from one side of the valley to the other on swaying suspension bridges that stretch above the milky blue water below, and soaking in the spring bloom along the way.
By midday we officially entered into Sagarmatha National Park, the park that bears Everest's Nepali name. Just past the Park entrance the trail emerges from the villages and green fields of the lower Khumbu and begins to climb to Namche Bazaar. A strong breeze was blowing up the valley when we crossed the suspension bridge at the base of the climb and the hundreds of prayer flags and white kata scarves stretched along it flapped in the wind, distracting us from the void in between the slats at our feet that stretched between us and the river hundreds of feet below.
The hill up to Namche is the first big climb of the trip, gaining over 2,000' from the valley floor to where Namche sits. In a series of switchbacks and long traverses we made our way upwards, staying well clear of the trains of dzopkyos - yak/cow hybrids favored at these lower elevations - that came barreling down the hill without much concern for those in their path. It was a healthy climb but felt good to put our heads down and climb for a bit.
Despite the spring temperatures lower in the valley a glance around the mountains above revealed fresh snow and as we arrived into Namche light flurries of snow blew in, at times blowing uphill as the flakes were buffeted by the swirling winds at the confluence of the two valleys. With tired legs we retreated to the teahouse, content to watch the low hanging clouds play amongst the peaks across the valley.
It has been a great day of walking and the team is settling into trail life well. We are spending the weekend in Namche, visiting the Saturday morning market tomorrow and exploring some of the surrounding villages as we acclimatize before going higher.
-RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
The streets of Kathmandu were hardly waking up when we reached the airport this morning, unloading our duffel bags outside of the the domestic terminal in the pre dawn darkness. By the time the morning sun found us, burning as an orange orb just above the eastern horizon, we were loading into a Twin Otter turbo prop plane, a STOL airplane - Short Take Off Landing - capable of landing at Lukla's narrow strip.
Besides some turbulence as we turned into the Khumbu Valley the flight was uneventful, a fact duly noted and much appreciated when flying a tiny airplane into a mountain airstrip like Lukla. Perched at a 10 degree angle and hardly more than several hundred meters long, the Lukla Airstrip is guaranteed to raise your heart rate - the plane touches down bearing full speed toward the hillside at the end of the strip, the brakes are slammed on and the engines roar as the air brakes fire, the plane decelerating from airborne to parked within a matter of seconds. It's exciting to say the least.
By 8:00 am this morning we were all safely in Lukla and we hit the trail shortly thereafter. To say that Kathmandu to Lukla is a change of pace is an understatement. Within minutes we looked at each other remarking at the novelty of hearing birds in the background, not taxi horns. The trail meanders down from Lukla among several villages, eventually reaching the base of the valley where we joined the banks of the Dudh Kosi - the Milky River named for the glacial sediment flowing in it. The trail is really the highway of the Khumbu, a boulevard of hand laid stone a few meters wide, that links the different villages. Passing by front yards bordered by small gates, past teahouses and chortens - Buddhist stupas and flapping prayer flags. Although the distance we covered today was relatively short compared to the days ahead, it felt full by the time we reached Phakding from all of the daily going ons of the Khumbu we saw.
We reached the teahouse as the clouds built in the sky. Before we could do anything we threw in our backs to help the teahouse owners raise their Chotra - a pine truck a dozen meters high that flies vertical prayer flags and serves as the entrance to most houses and compounds in the Khumbu. With a dozen locals, a few ladders and long poles, we managed to raise the Chotra to a vertical position and plant it in the ground. It was an entertaining way to be welcomed into the Khumbu.
We've spent the afternoon at the teahouse, watching periods of afternoon rain blow in. Tomorrow we climb to Namche Bazaar, the major trade center and biggest town of the region where we will spend a few days acclimatizing and exploring the surrounding area.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Here is one to write home about!
Today we woke at dawn to the clearest skies in a week. Mount Rainier and the surrounding volcanoes of Hood and Adams were clear and bathed in morning alpenglow without a breath of wind in the air. Below our home at Camp Muir we had quite a treat waiting for us, 4500 feet of untracked snow begging for our signature. We obliged and milked powder turns down the snowfield, grinning from ear to ear as we skied the best conditions our host had to offer. It doesn’t get better than this, skiing so much vertical with all the hard work done and a perfect day to match our enthusiasm. Our finest pitch was just into our old camp and we could admire our tracks while we clicked in for our last push to the parking lot. One last look up at Mount Rainier to admire our stellar morning and we could see our route down before a cloud swallowed Camp Muir and sealed the day.
Perfect weather, conditions, and team - couldn’t ask for more. Thanks Marci, Kirk and Uncle Bob for an excellent time skiing in the mountains,
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Solveig Gerhart and the RMI team
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
We spent our first full morning here in Kathmandu in the Yak & Yeti’s gardens, enjoying rare clear skies here in Kathmandu while discussing the final trip details, logistics, and equipment review. By midday our bags were sorted, our climbing gear and trekking gear separated and repacked in preparation for the mountains.
After finishing we plunged ourselves into Kathmandu’s maze of streets to visit some of the city’s most famous destinations. First visiting the Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest Buddhist Temples in Kathmandu and the starting place for any pilgrimage taken by Nepali’s practicing Tibetan Buddhism. The sprawling stupa is alive with devotees circumnavigating its base, softly chanting while spinning the hundreds of prayer wheels lining the stupa walls.
We next ventured to the hills to the east of Kathmandu’s center where Sawayambu sits, known as the Monkey Temple for the hundreds of monkeys that call the stupa home. Today the afternoon heat kept the monkeys in the shade, the younger ones choosing to wrestle and swim in the small fountain near the stupa’s base. From the Money Temple the clear skies afforded us amazingly clear views across the city. From above Kathmandu’s complicated web of streets takes on an amazingly orderly look, the faint sound of horns being the only indication of the chaos below.
At last we dove into the very heart of Kathmandu’s center, Durbar Square – literally the Palace Square that has been the center of Kathmandu for centuries. There, ancient Hindu temples crowd the streets, each with it’s own story and significance in the city’s heritage. Milling throughout are vendors of fruits and vegetables along with those hawking souvenirs to the tourist. It is a wildly busy and exciting place yet remarkably intimate given it’s cultural and historical prominence for Kathmandu and all of Nepal.
After a full day of packing and taking in the sites we returned to the hotel as the sun sank lower in the hills. We head to Kathmandu’s domestic airport tomorrow for an early morning flight out of Kathmandu and into the Khumbu.
- RMI Guide Linden Mallory
LOVE Following the blog! Its awesome that you are there, what an amazing adventure! Soak it up!
Posted by: Nicole McLaughlin on 3/26/2011 at 9:06 am
Saw your picture—Karen, you are not dressed for a mountain! More like sightseeing! MA
Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 3/23/2011 at 4:53 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Dubai, Doha, Hong Kong, Bangkok - flights landed at Kathmandu from across the world as RMI's Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak team arrived today. With the crossing of the International Date Line travel to Nepal from the U.S. typically takes three days. Plunging into the melee of Kathmandu's streets after days spent in planes and airport waiting areas is a shock to the senses. Holy men and sacred cows wandered amidst the idling cars next to Pashputinath Temple, a sacred Hindu Temple and the traditional cremation site of the Nepalese Royal Family that sits next to the airport. Further on we navigated between the bicycle fruit vendors selling bundles of bananas along the streets and into the narrow roads near Kathmandu's center, at last reaching the Yak and Yeti, our hotel tucked off of Durbar Marg - Kathmandu's busy commercial strip.
By late afternoon everyone arrived and the remainder of the day was spent resting from the days of travel. It was an amazingly clear day in Kathmandu, with occasional views to the 17,000' snow capped peaks just outside of the city. With the sun setting on the hills that ring Kathmandu, we gathered for dinner here at the Yak and Yeti, at last sitting down as a team. Sharing a few Everest beers, we caught up on our various past climbing pursuits and hopes for our upcoming adventures in the Khumbu. We are excited to explore Kathmandu before we depart for the Khumbu.
After a morning spent reviewing our trip logistics and discussing the equipment needed for our adventures, we will head out and see several of Kathmandu's most well known sites in the afternoon, visiting the former Newari Royal Palaces as well as several well known Budhhist Stupas in the city.
- RMI Guide Linden Mallory
wow, i am so excited for all of you…look at my handsome nephew…mark!!!
you all take care and enjoy every moment of your lives…life for the now.
auntie car car
Posted by: carla henrie on 3/23/2011 at 10:47 am
Dear Dave Hahn
My name is Filip and I am 13 years old, I chose you as my hero for my project at school. Only one other person knew who you are, so I had to tell them all about you, and what you do. I just wanted to let you know that I really hope you make it to the top again and if not that’s ok. As my mom says there is always a next time. My mom promised me that she will take me with her to climb Rainier next year when i turn 14 and I hope to meet you there. I will be checking on this blog how you are doing I told my class. I hope you will stay healthy, happy and have a lot of good luck all the way around!
Filip
Posted by: Filip Atsidacos on 3/23/2011 at 7:45 am
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
A week ago, under the soft grey winter skies of Seattle, Jeff Martin and I hauled our 8 duffel bags from the loading curb at Sea Tac to the Korean Air check-in counter. Two window and one aisle seat, three oxygen masks safety demonstrations, about 5500 air miles, and one questionable airline fish meal later, we piled the duffels onto a rickety luggage cart and rolled them through the doors of Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Airport into the turmoil of Kathmandu.
Since arrival our days are filled with preparations for RMI’s upcoming Everest Expedition. The array of moving parts that come together for a safe and successful Himalayan Expedition are at times overwhelming. It takes months of hard work by numerous people, both here in Kathmandu by our fantastic Nepali partners, High Altitude Dreams, to RMI’s preparations back in the States. While most of the minute to minute tasks are more of the mundane variety – from taking inventory of our lithium batteries supply (535) to the tetris challenge of packing the variety of medication and vitamin bottles into the tackle box of the Base Camp Medical Kit - the effect is invigorating. It is here in Kathmandu that the Everest Expedition morphs from the multiple separate components of focus that consumed our attention over the winter months to the cumulative creation of everyone’s efforts. It is here that the excitement builds and the climb begins to take shape. The Expedition becomes tangible and real: the tents and ropes are sorted and counted, the loads are packed and on their way by yak and porter to Base Camp, and the permit sits in front of us awaiting Dave Hahn’s signature as the Expedition Leader.
The preparations in Kathmandu also plunge us into the city’s daily chaos: dodging traffic rickshaws and speeding taxes in an almost desperate game of frogger to cross the street, navigating the narrow alley ways in order to track down a crucial item, finding relief in the living rooms of friends’ homes while sharing a cup of tea and catching up since the last visit.
On Saturday this teeming city of 1.4 million celebrated the Hindu Holi Festival, known as the Festival Of Colors – a holiday linked to several mythical tales in Hinduism and manifested in a messy, wild, and boisterous all day street party. Walking through the streets of Indra Chwok, a particularly narrow and busy neighborhood in Kathmandu’s heart, on Saturday, bands of people sang and danced in the streets, covering each other in red, yellow, black, and blue chalky powder as others dumped buckets of water from rooftops or lobbed water balloons from doorways. Amidst the frenzy of celebration, Jeff and I were greeted with shy hesitation at first –foreigners yet uncolored with powder amidst the festivities. Yet once a few brave souls rubbed our cheeks with powder we were marked: color came from every direction, buckets of water and water balloons launched our way. The hotel staff had more than a few chuckles when we walked in the door, grinning and covered in multiple colors.
This week our Island Peak and Base Camp Trek team heads into the Khumbu, followed days later by our Everest Team, and we are again immersed in the world of the mountains. The time spent with crampons on our feet is often the focus of our climbing pursuits but this time in Kathmandu is a reminder that this too is a part of the adventure - even when wearing flip flops. The months of hard work leading up to the mountain, the places we travel to, the sites we see, the people, the stories, and laughs we encounter along the way are all part of our mountaineering adventures.
- Linden Mallory
All the best to Jeff and Linden and climbers. Great to read the blogs…about as close as I’ll be getting to Everest for a while! Having been on an expedition with Jeff and Linden, this group is in good hands and will have a great adventure. Steve di Costanzo, Redding, CT
Posted by: Steve di Costanzo on 4/21/2011 at 3:00 am
You must be headed up the mountain by now, could not find anything online this morning. Will try later. Take care! Love, MA
Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 3/26/2011 at 9:11 am
We wrapped up our seminar on Friday with more training amid the continuing snowfall. What a week – lots of snow, wind, and great training. Avalanche hazard awareness, beacon searches, and the decision-making process of travel in avy terrain dominated much of the week. We also spent quite a bit of time on camp craft and setting up expedition-style camps. Of course, rope and anchor work, fixed line travel, crevasse rescue systems and other Denali-prep skills kept us busy as well.
Good luck to the Ski Mountaineering Seminar that starts today. The ski conditions look great!
RMI Guide Casey Grom
Our RMI Expedition Skills Seminar- Winter checked in this morning from about 6,000 feet on Mt. Rainier. Six inches of snow yesterday and another foot through the night has kept Casey and Jake and the team busy training. Sturdy winter camp construction, a focus on avalanche awareness and how to travel in winter conditions have been the focus. Today’s plans include scouting the route uphill but waiting until the winds abate before attempting to move higher. Stay tuned!
Hi Elizabeth, we are thinking of you very much from Zinal! We are so proud to know you! A big hug from the bottom of our Heart! All the best for you and your team. Annick & Pieder
Posted by: Annick Chatellenaz Caduff on 3/18/2011 at 2:41 pm
Elizabeth,.. Jean just flicked me the link….wow, there’s a saying, ” if your not living life on the edge your taking up too much room”... Your on the edge!:).... You can do it:)....
Posted by: Andy patterson on 3/18/2011 at 1:50 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After a safe descent from the top of Pico de Orizaba, it was apparent how lucky we were about the weather. All around us in the valleys below storms raged, but it was relatively warm and calm on our climb. We had the whole mountain to ourselves and with a skiff of new snow on the glacier, a clean canvas for a great day of climbing. Everyone climbed well, and we needed to because Orizaba makes you earn it. After a cup of tea and a quesadilla, we loaded up the trucks and headed back to town. It was beautiful out and the mountain was covered in alpenglow by the time we arrived back in the courtyard of Dr. Reyes. After a celebratory meal, we had a solid night's rest after a big and great day. Congratulations team on a job well done!
Now it's time to say adios. Thank you everyone for sharing in an awesome trip and safe travels back home.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
P.S. Upon getting off the mountain we learned of the earthquake in Japan. Our thoughts and hopes go out to everyone in harm's way. Suerte
Hello points North, this is Jake on the summit of Pico de Orizaba with our team who did a great job today getting up in good style. We had awesome weather, light winds, warm, we are on the top looking into the crater right now. Enjoying some great views and really unbelievable day.
So thanks to everybody back home for all of the support and we will be calling you when we get down. Well, all right, that's it from the third highest point in North America.
Take care up there and we'll be seeing you soon.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the summit Pico de Orizaba
On The Map
CT - thought of you all day yesterday going up, up, up. So proud of you! Hugs!
Posted by: Holly Stuart on 3/11/2011 at 2:03 am
Congratulations Kelsey and the entire team! Can’t wait to hear all about it! xo Kirky
Posted by: Kirsten on 3/10/2011 at 7:41 pm
.jpg)
.jpg)
Linden,
I am enjoying your posts. This sounds like a great adventure and I wish I was there. Say hello and give my best to Tim McLaughlin. Have a blast!
Rory
Posted by: Rory Robertson on 3/26/2011 at 6:55 pm
Linden,
enjoying following your progress on the blog…you write well…a nice tribute to Holderness (even if you never took English from me!!) Be safe and have fun…R
Posted by: Richard Parker on 3/26/2011 at 4:59 am
View All Comments