Entries from Expedition Dispatches
This is day 6 at Union Glacier. The weather is stellar, not a cloud in the sky, the first plane out to Punta Arenas flew out last night and we just found out that we won't fly tonight because the Punta Arenas airport is out of....fuel! Hard to believe, but so it goes. People are chomping at the bit to fly out but I really can't complain. My time at and around Union Glacier has been really amazing. I have done three new routes in the past three days on Mount Russman. One was an easy but steep snow couloir to the summit of Mount Russman (1428m). I left camp after breakfast in a full on white out, cold temperatures and snowy weather, but after missing out on climbing a new peak the day before with Seth and Jake, I wanted to climb no matter what. We - Gordon and Simon (two British Army men we had met on Vinson) and I - skied the flat 3kms to the backside of Mount Russman roped up and left our skis at the base of the face. We couldn't see the peak but decide for a couloir and made it to the top. I wish I could have seen camp 3000 feet below but the clouds prevented us from enjoying the view. Yet, it was a beautiful day just for being on the summit of the most obvious and closest peak to camp.
Yesterday, we woke up to beautiful blue skies and warmer temperatures. Victor - my friend I did that first ascent with the first day at Union - was going up his 10th first ascent in two weeks and asked me if I would join him and guide Richard Parks, a famous British retired rugbyman who is trying to climb the seven summits and two poles in seven months. From camp, Mount Russman offers a plethora of steep snow and mixed lines and lots of the first ascents have gone down in the past two weeks, but there were still a few lines to plum. We headed for a V shaped line, which offered up to 65-degree snow and ice. It was Richard's first first ascent and I was so excited to guide him up it. He got to pick the route name: Gratitude. A beautiful name which describes perfectly how I also felt about climbing yet another new route in Antarctica and getting to be here all together with a great team and getting to hang out with amazing people. While I was climbing, Jake and Kent were also doing a first ascent on the same face and Seth skied from the summit, putting amazing tracks down the face, visible from camp.
It was colder this morning and when Victor, his client Nick and I headed for what could be our last climb here, we weren't sure we should start up the climb in such polar temperatures. As soon as the wind died, it was warm again and we made quick progress up the 300 meters of snow and ice to the start of the route. There, the route switches from rock to ice and back to rock and is the only line angling left across the steep north facing wall (read south facing in the northern hemisphere). The rock was of poor quality but the line was so nice: I only wished I had more of these readily accessible lines in my backyard. We named it Diagon Alley, which coincided with finishing my audiobook, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. We headed back down to camp hoping for the news that we would fly out. Hopefully we will fly tomorrow. Otherwise, there are many other lines awaiting first ascents to keep us busy for another few days.
This is Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua expedition checking in from Camp 3 (19600').
This morning we started at Camp 2 with an early breakfast. We started our ascent at 10:20 am and after 3 hours and 20 minutes of hard work we arrived at our high camp.
The weather this morning was awesome, no wind and warm temperatures (well, as warm as it could get at 18,000'). During the ascent clouds moved in and a cold breeze cooled us. At our arrival to Camp 3 a little bit of weather added some spice to our day. It snowed half a inch, but for a good 15 minutes it looked like it was going to keep snowing all night.
Current conditions are better. It is still cloudy, but it has stopped snowing and it looks like we are going to have a clear night. Our plan is to wake up early tomorrow morning (sometime between 3 and 5 am) and we will check the weather. If the weather is as the forecast is calling, we'll have breakfast and start our summit attempt !
Everybody is very excited for tomorrow and the stokemeter is very high (8) at Camp 3!
We'll be in touch tomorrow.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua expedition
Everybody is very excited for tomorrow and the stokemeter is very high (8) at Camp 3!
We'll be in touch tomorrow.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua expedition
Sometimes things work well, efficiently, smooth as silk. And, sometimes, well, one hits a few speed bumps. We're in the speed bump zone.
Yesterday, we had high hopes that the weather would clear tomorrow, allowing the Ilyushin - with its new fuel pump - to cross the Drake Passage and drop onto the blue-ice runway to shuttle us all back to Punta. But, weather is indeed a fickle element, and generally prefers to surprise rather than be predictable. To the surprise of some 100 people here now at Union - clients and staff alike - the forecast today is for 4 more days of bad weather, unflyable.
So, we're stuck. It snowed all day today, with a low, grey ceiling of cloud, and will most likely do it again tomorrow. Some people have been waiting for a flight out for 2 weeks. ALE is doing everything they can, but the weather is out of even their control. So, we sit. We wait. We play cards, we laugh, we go out for a climb, a ski, something to pass the time and keep our minds off loved ones and family far, far away. It could be worse, much worse, so there are no complaints.
We all appreciate you're tuning in these last few weeks and following along with our little adventure. I thought I'd leave you now with one of my favorite quotes from a hero of mine, and a figure of Eddie Bauer history and lore: Dr. Charlie Houston. Leader of the 1953 American expedition to K2, Houston and team had an epic op the peak. The barely survived, and one member, Art Gilkey, sadly perished on the peak.
Later, Houston reflected on the climb in his book, "K2: The Savage Mountain", and wrote thus of climbing:
"Why climb mountains? The answer cannot be simple. It is compounded of such elements as the great beauty of clear, cold air, of colors beyond the ordinary, of the lure of unknown regions beyond the rim of experience. The pleasure of physical fitness, the pride of conquering a steep and difficult rock, the thrill of danger controlled by skill…How can I phrase what seems to me the most important reason of all? It is the chance to be briefly free of the small concerns of our common lives, to strip off non-essentials, to come down to the core of life itself. On great mountains, all purpose is concentrated on the single job at hand. Yet the summit is but a token of success. And the attempt is worthy in itself. It is for these reasons that we climb. And in climbing, we find something greater than accomplishment."
Again, thank you all for following along. Happy adventures, and a deep Namaste from the far south.
Peter Whittaker wraps up the RMI Vinson Expedition
Cindy, Wish i was stuck there with you…doing some skiing!!!!!!!!! I guess you are a bit bummed, but I am sure you are making the most of it. What a great opportunity for you to enjoy an incredible location. Randy
Posted by: randy on 1/21/2011 at 10:15 pm
We are enjoying a beautiful bluebird rest day here in the comfort of our second camp high on Aconcagua, after yesterday's trip to Campo Colera at 19,600'. The temperatures have warmed up and the winds have died down, so we are all just refueling and getting mentally prepared for the upcoming push to our highest camp and the summit. For a change of pace, we're going to have each team member share some thoughts today. Without further ado:
Sid: rest days are probably the toughest days, though given the push ahead it is welcome. Hello to all and thanks for your thoughts, they make a difference.
Keith: VERY tough mountain so far, but Gabi, Garrett and Pete have made it do-able and tolerable so far. Hi to fam and friends!
Erin: it's been a difficult climb with high winds, but I am feeling well despite a brief battle with dehydration yesterday. Looking forward to coming home to family and friends, see you all soon!
Todd: Looking forward to the summit! Kili ain't got nothing on Aconcagua...go market go!!
Dan M.: Awesome team, great climb and scenery. Send more TP. O-H!
John: Greetings family and friends, looking forward to the summit attempt. This is a beautiful, awesome and challenging mountain. As in Psalm 19, "The heavens and earth speak forth His glory".
Michael: It's all I expected physically and with beauty. Love to Lois and my girls, miss you all.
Lisa: Tom, miss you every day. Would love for you to be here. Sheri, your sleeping bag is working perfect.
Garrett: Great climb with great people in a spectacular place! Amy, I love you and miss you. See you soon!
Pete: The Andes have been showing us their spectacular side! Katie, love you, miss you, and talk soon!
Gabi: Having a great time, enjoying the time shared with the team members and my friends Pete and Garrett.
Ceci: te amo, nos vemos pronto por Buenos Aires!
Thanks to everybody out there for following our progress and sending all those positive wishes.
Cheers,
The RMI Aconcagua expedition
Fun to hear from all the climbers! Wishing you a safe push to the summit! Hi, Michael! XXOO :)
Posted by: Judy H. on 1/22/2011 at 7:22 am
Go Sid!
Great that the whole team is strong. Have a fabulous summit day. Don’t forget to take the time to soak it all in. You are a great inspiration to al of us back home. We want pictures.
Kevin & Patty
Posted by: Kevin Callaghan on 1/21/2011 at 10:01 am
Hi this is Seth Waterfall checking in from the Union Glacier camp in Antarctica!
All is well with the team. We had a great day of activity outside of camp. After breakfast this morning we headed out in a 'track van'. This is a 4x4 Ford Econoline van that is fitted with snow tracks instead of regular wheels. It is basically a 4 wheel drive snow mobile that keeps you protected from the elements. We took the van for a five mile ride from our camp to a spot called the Wave. The Wave is a huge wind deposit of ice that has formed a wave-like feature around a mountain called Mt. Charles. It is one of the most interesting and bizarre glacier formations that I have ever seen. There is no glacial erosion from solar effects or air temperatures here so the glacier has formed a curl around Mt. Charles that looks exactly like a barreling ocean wave. The only thing different is that this one is over 200 feet tall and stationary.
At the Wave the group split up. Some of us were busy taking photos and video for the First Ascent clothing company while the others in the group got to climb Mt. Charles. The weather was fairly poor today with a cold wind and a bit of snow so we didn't stay out for much more than a couple of hours. The climbing party met up with the filming party just after lunch time, piled back into the track van and headed back to camp. However, Jake Norton and myself decided to stick out the bad weather and go climbing in the area. We were inspired by the free ride out to the other side of the Union Glacier, but the problem for us was that we would have to ski the five miles back to camp after our climb.
That said, we were really psyched up to climb some of the local peaks as most of them have never been climbed. The Union Glacier camp is in it's first year of operation and this part of the range has seen little visitation prior to this climbing season. Due to the poor weather we decided on a fairly small but steep peak
that had caught our eye from camp. Jake and I unloaded our gear from the van and were soon left alone in the cold and blowing snow.
We set off to the base of the mountain and after an hour of skiing we reached the base of the mountain. There was a steep snow ramp on our right that lead directly to the summit and a rock ridge on the left. We decided to split the difference and headed straight up towards a plateau near the summit. The snow was nice and firm, perfect for cramponing, as we started but soon deteriorated to any icy crust over unconsolidated sugar-snow. This made the climbing more difficult so we switched over to the rock ridge. The rock quality was good and we enjoyed excellent climbing to a flat notch just below the summit. From there we had excellent snow conditions to the top. Amazingly we had a lull in the weather for most of our climb and our time on the summit. So we were able to enjoy a few moments of 'top-time' before descending back to our skis.
We then had a quick snack and headed off back towards the marked trail leading to camp. After an hour of skiing we reached the trail, this meant that we only had 5 miles to go to camp! Checking our watches we realized that we would have to hustle to make it back for the 7 p.m. dinner call. With over 100 people in camp the food does not last long and neither of us had eaten much since breakfast. The wind had picked up again but it was blowing at our backs and after and hour and a half of flat skiing across the glacier we arrived at camp... with 20 minutes to spare before dinner! The food was excellent. The A.L.E. staff really goes out of their way to treat us well here on the ice.
We are all settling into various games or books for the evening's entertainment. We'll check back in tomorrow with the latest from our adventure here in Antarctica!
Peter Whittaker describes the days adventures
Hey Jake - I was on your rope team on Rainier in 96… Its good to see that your still living the dream. Congradulations to you and the rest of the Vinson team
Posted by: Thomas Manett on 1/20/2011 at 5:22 am
Despite weather forecasts calling for high winds, we woke to clear skies, cool temps, and dissipating winds. By mid-morning, the weather looked good enough to do our carry. Our loads where light today as we only had to move three days worth of food, as well as a small amount of personal gear up hill to camp 3. The group climbed in style, arriving at our 19,600 ft camp in about 3.5 hours. The descent went quickly, and the group is back in camp resting, re-hydrating, and preparing for our last rest day before the summit push.
The stoke meter boosted to 8 today with our beautiful weather and successful carry.
We'll check in tomorrow with tales of rest day shenanigans.
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua Team
The stoke meter boosted to 8 today with our beautiful weather and successful carry.
We'll check in tomorrow with tales of rest day shenanigans.
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua Team
HELLO LISA (and her climbing team). From the blogs it sounds like the climb is going good. We are so proud of you Lisa and can’t wait until you get home. Looking forward to your stories of the climb and also can’t wait to see all your pictures. Be safe :) Bill and Jeri
Posted by: Jeri Hall on 1/19/2011 at 10:37 pm
Another beautiful photo! Glad your climb today went well. Will look forward to the next blog post. :)
Posted by: Judy H. on 1/19/2011 at 7:30 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
This time of year in Antarctica, the sun never sets. The warmest part of the day is actually during the evening when the sun gets a little lower in the sky, hitting you straight on. After two days living in a horizontal position in my tent, waiting for clear skies to allow the Twin Otter to pick us up from Vinson Base Camp, I was more than ready for some adventure. We immortalized Mount Vinson by flying over it from all sides, reliving our time on it by flying over the climbing route and dreaming of new lines on all the untouched surrounding peaks. An hour later, we were back at Union Glacier camp where we'd started 12 days earlier.
I instantly connected with my long time friend Victor Saunders, a British mountain guide who lives in Chamonix and who is always thirsty for First Ascents. And there are plenty to be had around Union Glacier since this is the first year ALE (Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions) is operating from here. He'd just put up 5 new routes with clients and invited me to join him for a sixth one. We left camp after lunch and skied the 5kms to the base of the beautiful ridgeline defining the horizon before climbing up to the ridge proper. The wind died and we were now basking in the late afternoon sun, making our way up a knife edge rock and snow ridge. Grateful for the opportunity to be a part of this first ascent, I untied from the rope and soloed ahead, breaking trail the whole way for Victor and his two clients, Dominic and Nick. The climbing reminded me of the ridges I guide all summer long in the Swiss Alps: loose on easy terrain and solid on the steeper steps, but without any scratch from previous climbers' crampons. When I reached the summit, I was elated. Being the first to tread on any ground is so unique, so special: it's so rare to know that no one before you has stood on a summit, or has climbed the line you are looking at; you have to figure out as you go, with no beta, relying solely on your technical and route finding skills.To me, First Ascents are the most rewarding style of climbing, all the more in a remote setting like Antarctica.
We were back at our skis by midnight, the sun still looming high above us in the sky as we looked back to our ridge, the Midnight Ridge.
- Caroline George
Peter Whittaker checks in to lay out the plan for the days ahead.
The team woke early today to make our move to Camp 2. Just over three hours after leaving Camp 1, the group rolled into our new home under bright sunny skies and a chilly breeze. Everyone was relieved to shed the weight of packs at 18,000 feet. Tents are up and everyone is resting and beginning the process of acclimating anew. Tonight and tomorrow are supposed to be very windy, so we will see in the morning if we are going to do our scheduled carry to Camp 3, or whether we will sit tight. We'll let everyone know tomorrow! Today's stoke meter is resting between 6 and 7. We worked hard, but everyone is excited to be that much closer to our objective.
Until tomorrow,
The RMI Aconcagua expedition
Tonight and tomorrow are supposed to be very windy, so we will see in the morning if we are going to do our scheduled carry to Camp 3, or whether we will sit tight. We'll let everyone know tomorrow! Today's stoke meter is resting between 6 and 7. We worked hard, but everyone is excited to be that much closer to our objective.
Until tomorrow,
The RMI Aconcagua expedition
Garrett, your new nickname is Captain Stoketacular. FYI.
Posted by: Amy on 1/19/2011 at 10:23 am
Lisa, I am sitting at my computer following your awesome adventure step by step! Girlfriend, you rock!
Posted by: Karen on 1/19/2011 at 9:39 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Hello there, this is Peter. It is January 17th and it is 8:45 [p.m.] here down in Antarctica. [We're] on the ice, back here at Union Glacier. We woke up this morning to beautiful blue skies and sun which is really nice after two days of weather. We were told that we had an hour to pack and break the tents and that the plane would be picking us up right after that. So we scrambled and broke everything down [and] the plane showed up. We were pretty excited to work our way to a couple of objectives that we had identified as skiable and climbable on the way to Union Glacier. When the pilot showed she had a forecast that was not good and we decided that we would fly back, watch the weather, and see how things went. The weather rolled in and shut things down; we were able to get back in to Union Glacier where we landed in that's where we are now. So we were not able to get to our ski objectives were a little saddened by that. But we're here and the forecast is not too good for the next several days. But we're already getting maps out and finding some different objectives. The cool thing is that the runway is in an area here at Union Glacier that is basically unexplored, so there's lots of potential for first ascents and first descents, accessible by Twin Otter if the weather permits, and also by snow mobile and they have these wonderful vans with big snow tracks on them as well. So, the game is always changing with a few twists and turns but the whole team is here. We did reunite with Ed, Cindy and David and so the whole team is back together, all nine of us. We're eating dinner and digging in here. [Brief Static] That's the update from the First Ascent RMI Team down here on the ice and we'll talk to you soon.
Peter Whittaker checking in from the ice.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Sometime around 560 B.C., a guy named Siddhartha Gautama - otherwise known as the Buddha - established as one of the fundamental tenets of Buddhism that to exist is to suffer. Not a very inspiring precept at first glance. But, what the Buddha was really getting at is the idea that everything in life is in a constant state of flux and change, that even joy must one day come to an end; thus, everything is transient, security is simply not a reality.
Our time here in Antarctica - especially these last few days - has proven the 2500 year old thoughts of the Buddha quite right.
With a bright sun and bright hopes, we packed eagerly this morning at Vinson Basecamp. Only a few wispy clouds were visible, and we were all excited to be dropped by Twin Otter in a new place to make the first tracks on an unknown peak. As we zipped our duffels, the whining of the Otter's engines rattled through camp, and the pilot, Monica, soon touched down on the snowy runway.
But, she brought bad news: another weather system was moving in, and the forecast called for the storms to close in - shutting down all flights in this vicinity - by tomorrow night. Time to change plans; it would be imprudent to be dropped on a remote glacier with a major weather system bearing down. So, we decided to fly by some predetermined spots and, if things looked good, get dropped, climb through the night, and zip out before the weather stranded us.
Soon, we were aloft, saying goodbye to our friends at Vinson Basecamp, and zipping around Vinson, Shinn, Epperly, and the other giants of the Sentinel Range. Then, on we went toward Union Glacier...and more change. With every passing minute, clouds on the horizon built up. Thirty-five minutes into the trip, it was obvious that this storm system was a big one, bearing down fast. If we got dropped down, there was a good chance Monica would not be able to get back in tomorrow to pick us up. And, the latest news was this storm could be 5-6 days. A biggie.
Sadly, our hand was forced, and we made the prudent decision: land back at Union Glacier camp, and hope to be able to zip out in some reasonable weather in the next couple of days to do some climbing, skiing, and filming.
To exist is to suffer. Life is transient. I've always thought, had he lived a bit longer, the Buddha would have agreed with the comedian Dennis Leary, who once said: "Life is tough...get a helmet."
-Jake Norton
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Lisa: Mary and I have been following your daily progress and envying you every step of the way! When you read this you are most likely down from the summit. Congratulations on your accomplishment. We are anticipating seeing all your pictures.
Love, Jud and Mary
Posted by: Jud on 1/22/2011 at 10:54 am
Frere Jacque,
I am vicariously enjoying your grand adventure. See you at the top!
Posted by: Andy Lee on 1/22/2011 at 9:41 am
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