Entries from Expedition Dispatches
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Hello there, this is Peter. It is January 17th and it is 8:45 [p.m.] here down in Antarctica. [We're] on the ice, back here at Union Glacier. We woke up this morning to beautiful blue skies and sun which is really nice after two days of weather. We were told that we had an hour to pack and break the tents and that the plane would be picking us up right after that. So we scrambled and broke everything down [and] the plane showed up. We were pretty excited to work our way to a couple of objectives that we had identified as skiable and climbable on the way to Union Glacier. When the pilot showed she had a forecast that was not good and we decided that we would fly back, watch the weather, and see how things went. The weather rolled in and shut things down; we were able to get back in to Union Glacier where we landed in that's where we are now. So we were not able to get to our ski objectives were a little saddened by that. But we're here and the forecast is not too good for the next several days. But we're already getting maps out and finding some different objectives. The cool thing is that the runway is in an area here at Union Glacier that is basically unexplored, so there's lots of potential for first ascents and first descents, accessible by Twin Otter if the weather permits, and also by snow mobile and they have these wonderful vans with big snow tracks on them as well. So, the game is always changing with a few twists and turns but the whole team is here. We did reunite with Ed, Cindy and David and so the whole team is back together, all nine of us. We're eating dinner and digging in here. [Brief Static] That's the update from the First Ascent RMI Team down here on the ice and we'll talk to you soon.
Peter Whittaker checking in from the ice.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Sometime around 560 B.C., a guy named Siddhartha Gautama - otherwise known as the Buddha - established as one of the fundamental tenets of Buddhism that to exist is to suffer. Not a very inspiring precept at first glance. But, what the Buddha was really getting at is the idea that everything in life is in a constant state of flux and change, that even joy must one day come to an end; thus, everything is transient, security is simply not a reality.
Our time here in Antarctica - especially these last few days - has proven the 2500 year old thoughts of the Buddha quite right.
With a bright sun and bright hopes, we packed eagerly this morning at Vinson Basecamp. Only a few wispy clouds were visible, and we were all excited to be dropped by Twin Otter in a new place to make the first tracks on an unknown peak. As we zipped our duffels, the whining of the Otter's engines rattled through camp, and the pilot, Monica, soon touched down on the snowy runway.
But, she brought bad news: another weather system was moving in, and the forecast called for the storms to close in - shutting down all flights in this vicinity - by tomorrow night. Time to change plans; it would be imprudent to be dropped on a remote glacier with a major weather system bearing down. So, we decided to fly by some predetermined spots and, if things looked good, get dropped, climb through the night, and zip out before the weather stranded us.
Soon, we were aloft, saying goodbye to our friends at Vinson Basecamp, and zipping around Vinson, Shinn, Epperly, and the other giants of the Sentinel Range. Then, on we went toward Union Glacier...and more change. With every passing minute, clouds on the horizon built up. Thirty-five minutes into the trip, it was obvious that this storm system was a big one, bearing down fast. If we got dropped down, there was a good chance Monica would not be able to get back in tomorrow to pick us up. And, the latest news was this storm could be 5-6 days. A biggie.
Sadly, our hand was forced, and we made the prudent decision: land back at Union Glacier camp, and hope to be able to zip out in some reasonable weather in the next couple of days to do some climbing, skiing, and filming.
To exist is to suffer. Life is transient. I've always thought, had he lived a bit longer, the Buddha would have agreed with the comedian Dennis Leary, who once said: "Life is tough...get a helmet."
-Jake Norton
Today is a much deserved rest day, after yesterday's trip to Guanacos Camp (Camp 2) at 18,000'. The team slept well despite last night's wind, which wasn't quite as strong as the night before but was still strong enough to keep the tents flapping and creaking throughout the night. We woke this morning to more beautiful azure skies and golden sun, which quickly warmed the tents and our spirits. We had an impromptu team meeting during our breakfast of oatmeal and cocoa to discuss the upcoming legs of the climb, and everyone is ready to keep moving towards the top! We're spending the remainder of today indulging in delicious lunch foods and conserving energy for tomorrow's move to Camp 2.
Today's stoke meter remains high, with an average of 8. Stay tuned for more details as we move higher on the mountain. Cheers!
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua Team
Today's stoke meter remains high, with an average of 8. Stay tuned for more details as we move higher on the mountain. Cheers!
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua Team
We really shouldn't complain, as it could be much worse. Some people have been waiting 11 days already at Union Glacier to fly back to Punta. We've only been stuck for two days. But, for an active group of people, two days lying in the tent in a fog as thick as pea soup...well, that can be like an eternity.
We're hanging in there, though. We got a brief respite this morning when the clouds lifted enough to expose the checkerboard of icefall immediately outside of camp, and a brief glimpse down to the Nimmitz Glacier. But, then it all socked in again, encasing us in a deep, thick fog and taking visibility down to about 50 meters.
So, we read. We sleep. We listen to music. We eat. We repeat. Not much else can be done. Patience, and a good sense of humor - two essential elements for a good team in the mountains.
Hey there, Pete Whittaker and the First Ascent team checking in from the ice still at Vinson Basecamp. We woke up this morning to clouds and very cold, icy fog. And this ended up being our second day of being unable to move. We're pretty much tent bound all day today. We were talking about comparing it to being inside a freezer with the door just slightly cracked so that the light is on all the time, 24 hours of day light down here. So very, very cold and just a lot of tent time today. And that's the story. We have adjusted our plans a little bit because of the weather. Forecast is still for possibly more clouds tomorrow. We were looking for an unclimbed peak closer to the Vinson Massif and I think now we're changing our plans. We've identified a couple objectives that are closer to the Union Glacier camp and the runway, dealing the weather and all the backups due to this strike in Punta Arenas. And the people that need to be moved around with the planes. Also because it is the end of the trip we're just adjusting our objective here a little bit. So we hope to get out tomorrow and have a twin otter drop us on a peak closer to Union Glacier, and we'll see how that goes. We're two weeks tomorrow on the ice, you know, everybody's trying to keep the spirits up. Getting towards the end of the trip, we’re all getting a little bit weary of the cold and the ice but hanging in there and hopeful we can fly and finish off the end of the trip. Everyone is healthy, everyone's doing well and getting a lot of horizontal time in the tent. That is the report for today and we hope to talk to you from a different location tomorrow. And we'll talk then.
Peter's update from Vinson Basecamp
Weather forecast was right. Winds picked up last night and didn't slow down until 8 am this morning. We estimate that the wind speed was a steady 30 mph and gusts of 50 mph. The good news is that besides a few cut guidelines, our tents stayed in place with no damage. Nobody slept that much so this morning our stoke score descended a few points. Once the wind slowed down we had a late breakfast and packed for the carry to Camp 2. The first hour and a half we walked uphill on a steep trail up the col Aconcagua-Ameghino (17,500'). Once we got to the west side of the col we were exposed to the cold wind that was still blowing on that side of the mountain. It took us 2 more hours to reach Camp 2. The descent to Camp 1 was very quick, just 1:10hrs.
As I write this Garrett is cooking dinner, which smells great, so our stoke score will get to 8 points! Hot drinks are ready so we will be sending a new dispatch tomorrow during our well deserved rest day at Camp 1.
Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua expedition
As I write this Garrett is cooking dinner, which smells great, so our stoke score will get to 8 points! Hot drinks are ready so we will be sending a new dispatch tomorrow during our well deserved rest day at Camp 1.
Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua expedition
Low Clouds and Grounded Planes
We all awoke this morning to a strange thing: warmth. All of us were sweating in our sleeping bags, and a quick unzip of the tent door explained the phenomenon. During the night, low clouds had marched across the continent, swamping the Sentinel Range in a mire of moisture, and bringing the temperature up noticeably.
After some coffee to get us moving, Peter set off to check in on flight possibilities with the ALE staff nearby. A quick radio call confirmed what we all suspected: No flights today. We'd be spending at least one more day at Vinson Basecamp.
There are certainly worse things to have happen; Vinson Basecamp is not a bad place to be stuck in a fog-bank. But, we all are a bit bummed as it would be nice to be moving to a new location and prepping for a new climb. Climbing, however, is often an exercise in patience, dealing with forces which are not only uncontrollable, but also tend to punish the impatient.
So, today, we sit, Kent and I shoot, and wrap up production loose-ends. We also took some time to pore over our map of the Sentinel Range, looking for potential peaks to check out via Twin Otter when the weather clears. Again, there are worse things; soon, the weather will again clear, and we'll be off to the next step of the journey.
Patience, as the saying goes, is a virtue.
-Jake Norton
Hey to all of you from Marysville, Ohio and the Union County Family YMCA “Training Home to Erin Snowden” We love the updates. Please take good care of Erin and each other. You’re all an inspiration, In fact I wish I could be with you. God Speed the rest of your adventure!!!
Rick Shortell, Executive Director
Union County Family YMCA
Posted by: Rick Shortell on 1/19/2011 at 7:01 pm
This is Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua expedition checking in from Camp 1.
This morning we left the comfort of Aconcagua Basecamp and started to head up at 10am. The team did a great job climbing today, it took us 4 1/2 hours to reach the camp. We enjoyed another sunny day. The cold winds on the Andes started to pick up, not too strong yet, but forecast is calling for 75 mph at the top for tomorrow. We will see how hard is blowing here tomorrow morning and we will decide if we do the carry to Camp 2. Our plans B and C for tomorrow are to carry just to the col between Aconcagua and Ameghino (half way to camp 2) or we'll use one of the weather days if winds are extremely strong. We'll be sending dispatches from the new comfort of Camp 1.
I am passing the keyboard to Garrett, and he will give you the score of the stoke meter.
By popular request we are instituting a daily stoke meter, to share with the world the level of excitement the team is currently feeling. We'll be using a numeric scale that corresponds to a specific level of stoke, defined as follows: 0-2= no stoke. 3-5= semi-stoke. 6-8= stoked. 9-10= TOTALLY STOKED! Today's stoke meter is a healthy 6, which is pretty nice after the climb.
Stay tuned for more updates from the team!
RMI Guides Gabriel Barral and Garrett Stevens
By popular request we are instituting a daily stoke meter, to share with the world the level of excitement the team is currently feeling. We'll be using a numeric scale that corresponds to a specific level of stoke, defined as follows: 0-2= no stoke. 3-5= semi-stoke. 6-8= stoked. 9-10= TOTALLY STOKED! Today's stoke meter is a healthy 6, which is pretty nice after the climb.
Stay tuned for more updates from the team!
RMI Guides Gabriel Barral and Garrett Stevens
We had high hopes of being able to fly today. After several days of protests and road blocks in Punta Arenas the crew was ready to load the plane with gear, food and more expedition members and fly to Union Glacier. Unfortunately, that didn't happen due to a broken fuel pump. It may be a few days before it can be fixed and the jet is back in the air.
The food and accommodations here are great and we are all doing well.
Best,
RMI Guide Ed Viesturs
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Hi there, it’s Peter, checking in from Vinson Basecamp, today is January 15th. And it’s about 1:20 PM. We woke up this morning, we had a great ski day yesterday, and we're hopeful [to fly] to one of our objectives an unclimbed, unskied peak. But the weather moved in and we are in a very cold, icy fog now with zero visibility. And so everybody's kinda shut down and it looks like it's gonna be tent time all day and just chilling and taking it easy and resting up a bit. We’ve been on a pretty, oh, not hectic schedule but we've been doing everything or a lot of things everyday so it’s kinda nice to have a rest. Forecast is not great for tomorrow, but we'll see what happens. And we're hopeful that we can get a twin otter plane out of here. We've got a couple great objectives about 10 minutes south on the way back to Union Glacier that we'll look at from the air and think that they would be prime possibilities for doing some skiing. And we hope we can land right by them. That's the plan and R&R today, iPods in the tent, and reading and just kinda taking it easy. And hopefully that changes tomorrow and we can we can get going with the rest of our trip. That's it for now, and we'll talk soon.
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Peter Whittaker gives team's update on the RMI team's rest day
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Nice pictures. Quick message for John Shadid, ardent Packer fan. Since you’re out of touch, some breaking good news/bad news on the NFC championship
game against the Bears on Sunday.
Bad news: Aaron Rodgers says he’ll miss the game.
Conflict with a Sarah Palin rally he wants to attend.
Good news: Brett Favre says he’s available and
“stoked” to help the Packers out if needed.
Good luck on the final ascent. Don’t wear
your cheesehead on Sunday if winds are high.
The gang at work is rooting for you,
Steve
Posted by: Steve Plimpton on 1/18/2011 at 6:44 pm
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