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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in from High Camp on Illimani

June 1, 2017 Hello, this is Eric and Caleb with the team in Bolivia. We were hanging out up at the Condor's Nest at 18,000 feet, tucking ourselves in for the night. Down below us we can see all of La Paz and El Alto stretched out in the distance and even all the way to Lake Titicaca. Today, we meandered our way up a long ridge from our previous Base Camp. We were about fives hours on the ridge, beautiful views in each direction. The team did great and we are psyched for our summit bid tomorrow. We should check in from the summit in less than 12 hours, no less than 24 hours, yeah we'll call it that. Talk to you soon. Bye. RMI Guides Eric Frank & Caleb Ladue


The RMI Bolivia Team checks in from 18,000 ft on Illimani.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I am so very, very happy that you are all off the mountain and that you all summited!  You are amazing!  Thank you to the guides for bringing everyone down safely.  Just don’t think about climbing again anytime soon, okay?  My hair is grey enough the
way it is!  Congrats, Mattie!  We can’t wait to hear all about it!
Mama

Posted by: Bird on 6/3/2017 at 4:54 pm

From Maddies crew at work.  Good luck and good climbing.  The blogs have been wonderful and you all are an inspiration to all of us mopes at sea level.

Posted by: Steve on 6/2/2017 at 5:36 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

June 1, 2017 The team continues to do well and make further progress up the mountain! This morning we woke up early to chilly temperatures at 11 Camp before we began to warm up on Motorcycle Hill. We were then greeted by the morning sun on Squirrel Hill and it warmed up quickly! When we arrived at 14 camp around 1pm the heat was blistering! We were quick to dig out cache and drop our gear. Despite the heat we couldn't have asked for better weather today, blue skies and a not so "Windy Corner." We got back to camp mid afternoon, a perfect time to escape the sun to rest in our tents. The weather forecast looks good for us to move everything else to 14 Camp and make our new home up there tomorrow! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt,

Sounds like you guys are doing well! I read earlier that you guys ate salmon… just know that if you eat it on the mountain you can eat it off the mountain, lol. Daisy is pushing 20lbs already at 10 weeks. Starting puppy school on Monday, so hopefully I can regain some sanity and get some sleep.

Stay cool. Good luck up there!

Posted by: Colleen on 6/2/2017 at 8:13 pm

Hello Tym and Team,

Great progress.  Hard to imagine that heat is an issue.  Bring on the sunscreen. Good luck with your push today for Camp 14!! Zeppelin, Zoolander, and Saxby wish everyone well, with a woof and meows.
The Golden State Warriors won the first play off game last night, 113-91. Satoshi says: $2425.00

Love Mom

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly (AKA Tym's mom) on 6/2/2017 at 9:07 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Reach the Summit!

June 1, 2017 4:18pm PST We just received news that RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team have reached the Summit of Denali! Congratulations Team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your patience paid off! Congratulations!

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/2/2017 at 9:12 am

Congrats guys! It is the time to drink from the base camp to town of Talkeetna.

Posted by: Lei W on 6/2/2017 at 5:42 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 17,000’ Camp Ready to Summit

May 31, 2017 Hey, this is Pete Van Deventer. The wait is finally over we left 14,000' Camp this morning perfect guys one of the nicest mornings we have woken up to yet. We got out early before this sun hit 14 Camp and beat the rest of camp out too. Along with Mike Walter's Team we made the track up to fix lines along the West Buttress and up to our 17,000' Camp. It's a beautiful day, we are looking way down the Kahiltna Glacier with super clear skies. We really couldn't ask for much more it is warm and calm. We are all really excited and it looks like it's going to hold tomorrow. So the plan in the morning is to get up and head for the summit. We will let everybody know how that goes. The forecast looks good and conditions here look good, and the route as we can see it looks good. So everything is working in our favor at the moment. We look forward to talking to everybody tomorrow. Bye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checks in from 17,000 ft Camp on Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck guys.

Hope you have a speedy ascent and clear skies.

Enjoy the moment Mark and Rach.

James

Posted by: James on 6/1/2017 at 4:55 pm

Gutted I’m not with you all. I wish each and every one of you a safe and successful summit attempt. Take care, Andy from Scotland.

Posted by: Andy mcronald on 6/1/2017 at 3:04 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly to the Kahiltna Glacier

May 31, 2017 The team woke up this morning, ate one last home cooked breakfast and gathered at the hanger where our gear was waiting at K2 Aviation. The bad weather of the last few days cleared up over night and we anticipated being able to fly into the range early this morning. We all spent a few moments finalizing our backpacks and duffels when K2 gave us the thumbs up. We quickly loaded up two aircraft with everything we'll need for the next three weeks and before we knew it we were in world of flowing ice, snow and rock. A 45 minute plane ride takes you from the comforts of town and puts you rather abruptly in a harsh environment and every year I'm always amazed at how I never quite get used to how quickly life changes in Talkeetna. For many decades starting in the early 1900's expeditions would start there journey with a week or more of toiling through the Alaskan bush just to reach where we have flown in under an hour. I'll take the plane please! An hour spent repacking and gearing up had us walking down the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier by noon. The skies were blue, the temps pleasant and the views massive. Only once in the last 4 years have I had the pleasure of walking up the Kahiltna Glacier with a view and the team did great readjusting to life in the range. Five hours of hard work brought us to our first camp at the base of Ski Hill at 7,800ft. We spent the afternoon setting up our camp. The team is now tucked in for the night getting some well earned rest. Tomorrow we will cache some gear at 10,000ft then return back to 7,800 to sleep. Forecast is calling for more good weather tomorrow and the team is excited to explore new terrain! Thanks for following along everyone. RMI Guide Steve Gately

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi!!! Thinking about you tons! Hope u r enjoying every minute! Can’t wait to hear all about it in person! Love Us

Posted by: Cosco Clan on 6/2/2017 at 2:51 pm

Good morning to all
Wish I could make you all my famous meatballs and homemade pasta
Be safe
You have hundreds of people sending you all good wishes and prayers
Love you Stephen
mom/dad - aka Tina and John

Posted by: Tina Zabinski on 6/2/2017 at 6:11 am


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Move to 14,200’ Camp

May 31, 2017 Finally, our string of bad weather is over and summer has come to Denali! Yahoo. Braving the early morning chill of camp at 11,200' we didn't linger in the Posh over breakfast but set about taking down camp after our oatmeal and coffee fix. Everyone did a great job and we were climbing by 9:00am. We did have company on the route, but the traffic was manageable. Unlike our previous climb of the route when we made our carry, this time we ended up walking in just a base layer after it warmed up in the afternoon. What a treat. All that said, the move to 14,200' is always tough. It's just a big jump in altitude for everyone. So yes, we're all feeling it just a bit, but that's normal. The team could not have performed better. We even picked up some of our cache from 13,500'. Tomorrow we have a fairly easy day ahead, which will help our acclimatization to our new home. As the shadows overtake camp, it's starting to get a little chilly. Just a harbinger of the cold that will settle on us tonight. But we're all snug in our tents now ready for the night. Good night from 14,200'. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Dear Lindsay & Steve,
Have been trying to get through to send you a message but it won’t go through. Sorry. Want you both to know that I can’t wait each morning to check and see what you’re doing. I was aware of the intense training required (for which I give you so much credit) but never appreciated the patience required to get to the summit! Hang in there. It will happen.
Had to chuckle when your guides were describing the personalities of the group. No question who the “dynamo” is.!!!  Give my best to the couple from Colorado.
Safe journey. I am there in spirit with you !
.Love Auntie A & Uncle Fred

Love from Mom & Dad too!!

Posted by: Sandra Friaglia on 6/2/2017 at 3:41 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Move to Camp High Camp Ready for Summit Attempt

May 31, 2017 Hi, it's Mike Walter calling on Wednesday May 31st. We had a beautiful day today, and we moved up to the High Camp on Denali's West Buttress, 17200 feet. We got here a little bit after 1pm today and have been setting up camp and resting. Everyone is resting and the weather looks good for tomorrow. So hopefully we'll be able to take a shot at the summit. Everyone is doing well. Hopefully we will be giving you a call from the summit and let you know how it goes. Alright. RMI Guide Mike Walter


RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from High Camp at 17,200 ft on Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

At the moment with 5/31/2017 imagery you are visible on google earth.

Posted by: Tom Rodger on 9/1/2018 at 11:02 am

SO happy for you David and team!  You remain in our thoughts and prayers.  Cheers to a summit today!  Safe travels down…
AK and Mom

Posted by: Ann Kathryn Scott on 6/1/2017 at 9:43 am


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team arrive at Illimani Base Camp

When horses eat grass, they shred and tear everything, even the roots. Llamas on the other hand chew to a perfect putting green height. Illimani Base Camp is a massive rolling field, home to dozens and dozens of llamas. So after arriving at base camp this afternoon we found ourselves on one of the largest perfectly manicured fields in Bolivia. And therefore decided that a round of lawn games was required. The only thing we were missing was proper equipment. Nothing a little creativity couldn't solve... Two snow pickets, 18 tent stakes, a dozen moderately round rocks, plus our ice axes and Voilà!, a game of mountain croquette was the highlight of the afternoon. Styles varied, rocks broke in half, and every time a shot looked to go straight it would bounce sideways, but after almost two hours of play we had laughed and cheered our way to a winner. RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Kim & Co. sorry the weather and conditions didn’t exactly cooperate.  Still sounds like an AMAZING trip and I love the impromptu croquet…don’t be too concerned, but Lucky has found a suitor by the name of Hugo the Persian. 
Xoxoxo Lora

Posted by: Lora on 5/31/2017 at 6:48 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Enjoy a Rest Day

May 31, 2017 Today has been a day of leisure! The team got some much needed rest and we had a long breakfast of chatting and relaxing. The team reviewed some technical skills that we will need for the rest of our climb above here. The guides often refer to the climb up to 11 camp as the approach. This section behind us, we'll pack our cache this evening with our goal being to take the groceries and other luggage up to 14,200 ft tomorrow morning. The heat from the days radiation is intense, and we are currently hiding from the sun. The sleeping bags are out draped over the tents drying, and also cooling the temps inside our 100 sq ft portable homes. Hydration, stretching, and sorting the gear will keep us busy until tomorrow. Hi to all our friends and family! RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks for the progress updates!  I’m sure Matt is wondering how the kickball team is faring without him, and we want him to be fully focused on your dangerous mission, so if you could let me know we have won the past 2 games.  We are ranked 7th in the league (of 11) heading in to playoffs next week.

Stay safe & have a great time!!

Posted by: Denise on 6/1/2017 at 11:27 am

Hi John and Team!

Impressed with your progress so far… and love seeing the posts… it looks very very cold!  Be safe!

Southwire Groupies

Posted by: Southwire Groupies on 6/1/2017 at 6:43 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 28 - 2 June, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Paul Rachele led their teams to Camp Muir on Monday and have been working on mountaineering skills. Due to the weather forecast they opted to make their summit attempt today but they will remain at Camp Muir until Friday where they will continue to train. Congratulations to today's Seminar Teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great Job Team!! Amazing accomplishments!!

Posted by: Jimmy Hoadrea on 6/1/2017 at 5:29 pm

Congratulations guys! Great job, now get off that mountain and get home!

Posted by: Carrie on 6/1/2017 at 12:46 pm

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