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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Report from 17,000’ Camp

June 28, 2014 - 10:27pm Hey, it's Billy calling in from 17 Camp on Denali. Today was not summit day for us. We woke up to some inclement weather that's been steadily working all day with winds gusting near 70 miles an hour or so. We build up pretty solid, fortified camp and everyone's sitting tight and holding on. Winds from the storm are supposed to give way to nicer weather in the next couple of days so we're just sitting tight with our fingers crossed. We'll call and check in tomorrow, to let you know if we got up there. That's all for now.


Billy Nugent checking in from 17,200' Camp on Denali

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric: 70mph winds…OUCH…flapping tent syndrome….use the ear bud skull cap combo to keep from going insane! Trust tomorrow things calm down. U.P.

Posted by: Paul on 6/26/2014 at 4:03 pm

Been checking the blog nonstop to see if you guys had made any progress! Not to worry, keeping our fingers crossed that the weather clears up and you will be able to make a successful summit bid! Keep up the great work! Miss you Dad and Michael! xoxo

For any of you soccer fans up there: the Men’s US soccer team advanced to the knockout round about an hour ago (despite a loss to Germany). #MURICA

Posted by: Katie Freedman on 6/26/2014 at 11:32 am


Mt. Rainier: June 26th Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb of Mt. Rainier led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Mike Soucy stood on top of Columbia Crest this morning. JJ reported that the teams were in and out of a cloud cap all morning but enjoyed light winds and pleasant conditions on the summit. The teams will descend to Camp Muir where they will pack up and refuel before making their way to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed a light breeze while on the summit. The team will descend back to high camp for the night and will return to Ashford tomorrow. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations everyone.  Great reward for all
the training and hard work.  So proud of you, Paul!!
A special thank you to the guides.

Posted by: Vicki on 6/26/2014 at 9:59 pm

WAY TO GO JIM AND KATHERINE !!!!!  Congratulations to all.  Truly an experience.  Love you :)

Posted by: Mary Kruse on 6/26/2014 at 5:48 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Summit Cotopaxi

Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:07 AM PT The Ecuador team is back at Cotopaxi's high camp. All is well. Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 7:01 AM PT RMI Guide Mike Walter checked in this morning from the summit of Cotopaxi! We look forward to hearing from Mike again once the team is safely off of the mountain. Congratulations team!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Shobita and to all the members of your team!!  Not only did you summit, but you did it in some very brutal conditions. Great job.  I guess now you’ll enjoy some great food.
Randy

Posted by: Randy Shetter on 6/26/2014 at 3:54 pm

Congratulations! Looks beautiful!

Posted by: Magda on 6/26/2014 at 10:21 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter and Team Ready for Cotopaxi Summit Bid

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team are checking in with the RMI office as they prepare for their summit bid on Cotopaxi: June 25, 2014 5:38am PT We enjoyed a relaxing rest day at the Hacienda Chilcabamba. Today we will head into Cotopaxi National Park and prepare for our summit bid. We'll be in touch! June 28, 2014 - 3:01pm PT We we're treated to good views of Cotopaxi and five condors as we drove into the National Park. We are at the hut now, going for the summit tonight.We'll be in touch soon! Stay Tuned!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to hear you’re all well and rested. Sending love and support! Go team go! One foot in front of the other all the way to the top! Can’t wait for the updates!

Posted by: Lizzie on 6/25/2014 at 4:47 pm

Glad to hear from you! I was getting worried.

Posted by: Kris on 6/25/2014 at 4:34 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

RMI Guide Peter Whittaker along with Ed Viesturs led a team of eight climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Peter reported light wind, great climbing conditions and a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier. All eight climbers in the party reached the summit. The Five Day Summit Climb led by Solveig Waterfall also topped out this morning with 100% of her team on the summit as well. Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before descending down to Paradise and then to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job Matt; I am so happy for you!  It looks like you had perfect conditions too.  I look forward to hearing about it when you get back.

Posted by: John Boyce on 6/26/2014 at 7:54 am

Well done Dave,Mike and team! Thanks Ed and Peter for keeping them safe:)

Posted by: Nat Turner on 6/26/2014 at 3:20 am


Mt. McKinley: Dave Hahn & Team Arrive in Alaska

June 25, 2014 - 12:26 am PT And so it begins... The last RMI Denali team of 2014 took shape today in the Anchorage airport. We assembled, seven climbers and four guides from around the world lugging about 23 or 24 giant duffel bags of cold weather gear. The team took a ride with Denali Overland, our shuttle service to Talkeetna. The three hour trip was broken by a stop for provisions in Wasilla, but then we powered on up the Parks highway to our Talkeetna turnoff. We had pretty good views of the Chugach Range as we left Anchorage but the Alaska Range stayed mostly hidden under cloud. There were some scattered rain showers to see, and a Bald Eagle or two, but no moose this time. We were in Talkeetna by 8:30 PM and getting settled into the comfortable Talkeetna Motel not much later. The big work of preparing to fly onto Denali begins in the morning. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

It’s going to be an incredible journey for all of you!  Sending tons of positive energy, love, peace and light your way! :)

Posted by: Ivonne Mosquera-Schmidt on 6/26/2014 at 10:12 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to High Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

June 24, 2014 – 7:51 pm PT Hey it’s Billy and team calling in from High Camp here at over 17,000’ on Denali. Our crew moved up today from the 14,000' Camp. We enjoyed a nice walk and good temps up on the West Buttress, made our way up the ridge line in and out of the clouds all day. And as we were building camp at 17,000’ the clouds parted. We are enjoying blue skies and relatively calm winds. If it looks anything like this tomorrow morning we are going to try and take a crack at the summit. So, wish us luck and we will check in tomorrow, go or no go. Alright, that is all for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Bruce and Michael. Good luck on your final ascent to the summit. I hope you have great weather for the vista at the top. Wave those Duke flags once again, and take plenty of pics! JBF/Mom

Posted by: Joyce Freedman on 6/25/2014 at 8:58 pm

Hey Bruce, Michael and team,
Sending you well wishes for a successful climb to the top!  You are ready so go own it.
Kathy

Posted by: kathy on 6/25/2014 at 7:53 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Making Progress

June 24, 2014 - 8:12 pm PT Today we encountered the second oxymoron of the trip. The first, albeit not mountain related was not seeing the sun in the longest day in the norther hemisphere, hence the sunless solstice. Today's oxymoron was more exciting, helpful and might I say unexpected. At 13,500 feet there is a crucial feature of Mt. McKinley's West Buttress Route that one must pass to gain access to Advanced Base Camp at 14,200 feet. This storied gateway is called Windy Corner. There have been many a harrowing epic here where sleds have been known to take flight like kites, ropes bend outward like giant crescent moons and rumor has it a climber was even flash frozen like a walking tuna when hit by a fridges gust. For us the corner was breathless! Last night I had decided to make a carry of unneeded equipment and food up around windy corner because a snow storm is projected to pay a visit for the next few days. Despite having put our bodies to the test for the last four days without rest, this move seemed wise as to prepare the team to move up given our next nice weather day. Everyone's training has proven adequate and we are now in a great position for the days to come. We expect one or two more days here at 11,000 ft. Before making our next move. Everyone is happy and healthy. Climb on. RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It is truly amazing what you have all accomplished so far. You’ve worked hard to earn your life “above the clouds”. Sending you strength as you dig deep on your journey to the top.  Love to my guys - david, alex and evan and your new climbing family.

Posted by: Amy St. Angelo on 7/4/2014 at 6:56 am

Looks like it’s getting a little steep :(

Posted by: Jerry on 6/25/2014 at 7:21 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 24th SUMMIT!

Early this morning the Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Brent reported clouds above and winds 20 mph, and some new snow on the mountain. The team has started their descent and are now en route back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team led by Seth Waterfall reached the summit via the Emmons route at 11:50am this morning. The will spend a bit of time on the summit before starting their descent. Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good job NS fellas! Hope you have some good snaps to show us - looking forward to you coming home :)

Posted by: Megan on 6/24/2014 at 6:53 pm

Well done Andrew and crew. Suggest you take the elevator on the way back down. I guess you are the next guy to climb the mast.

Posted by: Herbie on 6/24/2014 at 5:48 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Move to 11 Camp

June 23, 2014 - 11:54 pm PT We woke up to a beautiful day at 9,500 on Mt. McKinley enjoyed breakfast and broke down camp in record time. We had a smooth carry to 11,000 and conveniently found some old tent platforms that needed minimal work to make hospitable. A major highlight to our new camp is an unbelievable toilet with a real lid donated by Tyler Jones and his crew on their way off the mountain, it's the simple things in life. We are hunkering down for the night looking forward to a rest day tomorrow, however with a potential weather system coming in we might delay our rest day and make our carry to windy corner early before the weather changes. We will make our final decision in the morning when Adam can communicate with the mountain. Hasta mañana, RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann and Andy Hildebrand

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Look forward to your blogs daily. Sounds like everything is going well. Best to the team and guides. You guys are amazing.
JH

Posted by: Jerry on 6/24/2014 at 6:18 pm

Brother Dave, Alexander, Evan and Team,
We’re rooting for you in Minnesota! Stay safe and warm. We’ll follow the blog daily!

Posted by: Dianne Sullivan on 6/24/2014 at 2:04 pm

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