Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Waiting for a Break in the Weather

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

May 31, 2014 - 11:02 pm PT Not a plane was buzzing this morning when we awoke to dark skies and a slight breeze here in Talkeetna. Today was our fly day, but we are waiting out a hefty storm that has hundreds of climbers waiting on both sides of the Alaska Range. We met at the K2 hangar to wrap up some last-minute packing with high hopes for hopping on a plane; alas, we stayed stuck on the green-side, in Talkeetna along with swarms of anxious climbers. We are all psyched for tomorrow's potential - crouched and ready to jump on a plane at a moments notice. For now, we will continue to exercise our patience, a vital skill that we will need on the mountain. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SO excited for the next update! Love you, John!! Don’t be stubborn up there ;)

Posted by: McKenna Harris on 6/2/2014 at 2:25 pm

THE JOURNEY begins!! Keep your spirits UP.. Be strong , Be smart, Be safe…Be a great team!!!!!. And know that you are loved!!! GOOD LUCK !!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/1/2014 at 6:04 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Soggy but Spirited in Talkeetna

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

The wait continues here in the rainy village of Talkeetna. We have covered a whole gamut of skills and topics. Currently we don't have a glacier under our our feet but we have many new tricks and tips to help us when our plane's skis hit the powder-covered runway at KIA (Kahiltna International Airport), as many consider it. While the last flight in or out occurred this last Monday, our motivation is high and our spirits strong as we endure these fuzzy and rain filled skies. Maybe fishing for halibut would suit this weather well? Our afternoon will take us to the Talkeetna Ranger Station for a documentary video that outlines the process of climbing and the reality of this difficult and rewarding climb to the summit of North America! We continue to send positive thoughts to the teams on the hill, hoping to high-five with then as we land. Any high pressure you can send up here would be appreciated by all... Until tomorrow, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and team

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Hi Dave and team-
We will be watching your progress from Watertown. So excited you are finally beginning your adventure.
Good luck!
Julie and Karla

Posted by: Julie and Karla on 6/1/2014 at 2:19 pm

Tyler, Garrett and Paul -

Hi Guys! Well, here we all are again. Of course, I wish I was there with you getting all antsy to get up on the mountain. I see that Ben Alavarez is following along on the blog. Hi Ben!!
Hope you get that high pressure system soon.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/1/2014 at 12:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at Base Camp

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

May 31, 2014, 2:11 pm PT We are still here at Kahiltna Base camp. We received another foot of new snow overnight and it shows no sign of slowing or stopping. We are all staying hopeful that the weather will break sometime in the next few days and we can finally get a big meal and that long awaited hot shower! RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Katrina Bloemsma, Casey Grom, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 7:35am PT. The team reported clear skies and calm climbing conditions. The team will spend some time on the Summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looking for info on Sheldon Spivey a Georgia climber who is there attempting to summit Rainer

Posted by: Diana Spivey on 6/1/2014 at 8:58 am

Reading the sad news from MT Rainier - it does not
appear to be Robert’s team led by Matt Emht that
was lost but a team led by Matt Hegeman taking the Liberty Ridge route.

Prayers to all involved.

Posted by: Mitchell on 6/1/2014 at 7:53 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team in One More Weather Day

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 30, 2014 - 10:54 pm PT Ground hog day of a sort here, though not really. We spent another day sitting, listening to what sounds like a freight train above us: the wind blowing over the Buttress. Mid day though, the wind direction shifted, and 14 camp went from being a place of relative calm, to getting intermittent gusts of wind to 30 mph or so, enough to move a lot of snow around. At the same time the snowfall intensity increased, so that it finally feels like we are sitting in some real weather in Alaska. A number of skiers around camp took the opportunity to make some nice powder turns, making us all jealous. With all of that, we are still optimistic about our window in the next day or two, and so spirits are high. Once this system blows itself out, it will be off to the races for us, hopefully as soon as tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes! Best, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team’s Good Living at 14,200’

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 30, 2014 - 11:12 pm PT The view from the vestibule this morning was not what I'd have called heartening. Clouds and snow dominated the picture, adding visual texture to the soft but incessant howl of the winds coming from the Buttress above. We could still see most of the landmarks around camp, but in the shadow of the early morning it didn't look promising for our carry. So, after talking with Leah and Nick, I happily crawled back into my warm sack. We later awoke at the more reasonable hour of 9:00 to get the stoves fired up and start our day. No one complained about not climbing. I think having a real rest day was welcome by all. So what do we do on these days? First of all, we hang out in the Posh an extra hour or two, then we cut a few snow blocks to further reinforce the walls we built around our tents yesterday. It was impressive seeing the team rally and build some really good walls. I think everyone was feeling good and happy to be doing something. Twelve hours in a tent can do that to a person. But a rest day is a rest day and some good tent time is a must. A group was playing an animated game of BS next door to us in the Posh. Others were catching up on things on the radio. Naps are never a bad thing, and in this tent a few games of cribbage were contested. We even got in a bit of rope craft review and knot tying practice. Such is life for the climber hanging out at 14,200' waiting for Mother Nature to offer us a little friendlier weather to continue our climb up the flanks of one of her most beautiful mountain creations. We're all doing well and happily waiting this little set back out. Cheers, RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Proud of you dad, hope you make it all the way to the top. Make it count. Get ready for some seriously hot and humid weather back in Jupiter.
Love you.
Ali

Posted by: Ali on 6/1/2014 at 10:25 am

Hope you are doing well.Love seeing the blogs and your progress. I Love& miss you.Girls are doing good.It’s been a good trip here so far. Who knew that the girls like to fish.Scottie has taken them fishing a lot.You calling me on my birthday made my day.I had so much more to say.Love you.Good night.

Posted by: Robin Wagner on 6/1/2014 at 2:28 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Passing Some Time in Talkeetna

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

May 30, 2014 - 10:16 pm PT The Alaska Range remains untouched by eager climbers awaiting a green light on a weather window. Our team awoke to our second day of uncertainty, hopes high that we might catch a break in this persistent southwesterly storm. Everyone's enthusiasm and patience has been key while we perfect the "Talkeetna hang". We spent the majority of our day at the hangar working on vital skills that will get us moving quickly once we hit the glacier. Everyone's psyched for tomorrow's potential, feeling optimistic that we might get our chance to fly! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and the gang

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Ready as soon as the Weather’s Ready

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

May 30, 2014 - 7:43 pm PT Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! The Upper West Rib team arrived in Anchorage yesterday afternoon and shuttled north to Talkeetna, our launch site for the mountain. Right now, this sleepy little town is bursting at the seams with climbers waiting to fly onto the glacier. The skies are overcast and the planes have been grounded since early in the week. Everywhere you look, there are softshell clad people trying to pass the time. Our team was distracted from the constant refreshing of weather websites by plenty of prep work today. After meeting with the National Park Service for a general orientation, we rolled our sleeves up and got right to work. Eight hours later, our bags are packed and we will head to dinner to discuss the only thing on waiting climber's minds... "when will the clouds break?" For now all we can do is relax and know that we are prepared whenever that eventuality comes about. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

There you are!
Hi to all of you.
Im glad to see you guys getting ready to move on.
Thanks for the postings. That’ll be one of the greatest accomplishments. I look forward more updates of your progress. Good luck.
Love you,
Jesse :)

Posted by: L. Rosales on 5/31/2014 at 2:26 pm

Thanks for the visual of your location! Glad that you are safe in Talkeetna. Loved the moose! Thinking of you all constantly! I love you John!!!!!

Posted by: Patricia Stenderup on 5/31/2014 at 7:30 am

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait for Flying Weather at Basecamp

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

May 30, 2014 - 6:29 pm PT Our team is still at Kahiltna Base Camp waiting for the weather to improve so that we can fly back to Talkeetna. This is day 23 of our trip and we're all getting antsy in anticipation of a hot shower, food, and flush toilets. We picked up another eight inches of snow over night, and the precipitation has continued pretty much all day. We're hoping for a break in the weather in the next few days so that planes can get in to Base Camp. That's pretty much all the news from this end. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Settle in at 14,200’ Camp

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 29, 2014 - 11:07 pm The team got through their first night here at 14,200' in splendid shape. Most actually got their best nights sleep of the trip. Although we got a few extra winks of sleep this morning, we got up early enough to pick up our cache at 13,500' and were back before noon. This allowed us plenty of time to get in some training before we hopefully make a carry up the fixed ropes and finally on to the West Buttress, the namesake of our route up Denali. But before we could call it a day and enjoy some quality time relaxing in the tents, we built a 'proper' latrine complete with high walls to protect us from the wind and blowing snow. These walls do double duty to afford us some much appreciated privacy as well. Walls were also built up around our tents, which will be of huge benefit if the forecasted winds appear tonight. We'd like to end with a parting shout out to three generations of Greg's family celebrating their birthday today. Happy Birthday Sarah, Robin and Ken! Good night everyone. RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like you’re making good progress, staying rested, full, warm and safe. Well done team. My compliments to all. We love you and we’re all cheering you on. Dad, Nicole, Frank, Emma and Baby Jake.

Posted by: Nick Boekenoogen on 6/16/2014 at 5:32 am

Hey,

Tell Rick Popp that we have been keeping track of the blog from time to time and that all the HTK killers are rooting him on. Things are good at home and we are all looking forward to his return.

Keith and Liz

Posted by: Keith Wilson on 5/30/2014 at 9:02 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Waiting for a Break in the Weather

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Soggy but Spirited in Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at Base Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team in One More Weather Day

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team’s Good Living at 14,200’

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Passing Some Time in Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Ready as soon as the Weather’s Ready

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait for Flying Weather at Basecamp

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Settle in at 14,200’ Camp

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