Entries from Expedition Dispatches

The Mt. Baker Easton Glacier Team led by RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier were unable to climb due to thunderstorms in the area. The team is hanging in their tents doing their best to stay dry!  

Congratulations team on a real mountain adventure! 

Hi dear readers!

It was our first day joining up with the Inca trail and what a day it was! Up, up, up we went from 9,800 feet all the way to nearly 14,000 feet at Dead Woman’s Pass. Step by step we walked together. Everyone did awesome and the views were spectacular. The sun was beating down on us for most of the day but just before the pass we got some reprieve as clouds moved it and cooled down the temperatures. Then we descended into our next camp, Pacaymayo, which means “hidden river”. It’s a beautiful and remote camp with views looking into the valley and no one around for miles.

We were greeted by our incredible support team with smiles and cheers! Every day we arrive to camp with our tents already set up and water ready for drinking. We couldn’t do this without them!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

Always tough to leave the Plantation Lodge in Karatu.  It is only made possible because we then get to move on over to Tarangire, home of the Elephants!   It is hotter and drier once we left the Ngorongoro highlands, but we had a thin cloud cover for much of the day, so the sun wasn’t oppressive.   Within minutes of entering the park today we were looking at a pair of lions.  A big male sitting regally beneath a shade tree and a female who seemed to have the hunting job for the day.  A few minutes later we began seeing the elephants.  Tarangire has a million big baobob trees, every one of which has been scraped by elephant tusks in search of moisture.  We saw family groups everywhere, with plenty of youngsters staying close to their moms.  As we got deeper into the park we saw giraffes and Cape buffalo (zebras and wildebeest barely rate a mention anymore, but we saw thousands of them) we saw antelopes of all shapes and sizes, from Dik Diks to Elands.  We just barely saw a leopard (a tail hanging down and a couple of paws as the cat lay sprawled over a branch within a thick canopy). And we just barely saw a cheetah -or cheetahs if you believe those that think there was another speckled thing behind that bush. 

It was a great day in a great big park.  And we look forward to one more morning of Safari.  But we are still in the park tonight, experiencing a “tent camp” out in the bush.  There is no fence separating us from the wild animals tonight.  If there is no dispatch tomorrow, you’ll know what happened.  

Best Regards, 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn
 

Hola!

We woke up to sunshine and the sound of the river rolling below us. We normally have a dining tent that we eat in but we opted for a plain aire breakfast because the weather was just too good! It was our shortest day on the trail so we took our time this morning to enjoy an extra cup of coffee before we packed up and headed out.

Our route meandered downhill and we stopped frequently to learn about the flora and fauna around us - pink flowers used to treat colds, mint plants for stomach ailments, brilliant fuschias, special leaves used for dying wool bright green, and so many more.

We said goodbye to our cowboys and mules today - we’ve officially completed the Salkantay trek and are joining up with the Inca trail. We walked into our camp at Wayllabamba to the cheers of our chaskis who will be with us for the rest of our trek. We even had hot showers and a little bit of wifi!

A highlight of the day was the fresh-from-the-river trout ceviche and “jungle potatoes” we had at lunch.

We’re all sleeping well tonight!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team

PC: Jess Wedel

We may be just tourists now, but today we still got an “alpine start”.  It was still pitch dark as we were driving away from the lodge at 5:40 AM.  Our guides had recommended the early start for Ngorongoro Crater as a way to see better wildlife.  Most animals are a bit more lively in the cool mornings than in the hot afternoons.  The light came up as we were crawling toward the caldera rim in our landcruisers.  After a bumpy ride in the clouds along the rim, we made an important stop at a Maasai village.  We wanted to learn a little more about this colorful tribe (one of 128 in Tanzania) hanging on to their traditional ways in a rapidly changing world.  They greeted us with singing, then showed how they make fire without matches or lighters.  They took us into their Boma (village) and into their homes. We thanked them for taking the time to answer our many questions and then we headed for the “crater”   Immediately upon reaching the valley floor we began seeing bigger and bigger herds of buffalo, wildebeest, zebra and gazelles.  There were a few ostriches mixed in for variety.  Eventually we did a picnic breakfast -spitting distance from a flock of hippos.  By the time we followed up with a picnic lunch, we’d seen rhinos, lions and elephants.  There was a bonus encounter with a skittish cerval cat.  We climbed out of the caldera around 3 PM under still cloudy skies, but it was a pretty good day all around.  After a bunch more rough roads, we were back at the ultra-comfortable Plantation Lodge at 4:30. 
Tomorrow we’re bound for the land of elephants   -Tarangire. 
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

The Four Day Climb August 18 - 21 led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Drew O'Brien reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. It's a beautiful day on the mountain.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon and concluding their program.

Congratulations to today's teams! 

Wednesday, August 21, 2024 - 4:59 am PT

“Remember this beautiful moment, remember this beautiful time, it’s very special because it is once in a lifetime,” words from Carlos, our Peruvian guide at the top of Salkantay Pass at over 16,200 feet. After climbing for a couple hours this morning, we reached the pass. On one side, we were looking into a valley a thousand feet below us with a patchwork of colors and on the other we were looking toward Salkantay Peak and the glacial moraine we had just climbed. 

Carlos and one of our mule wranglers lead us in a special Quechua ceremony. Offering three coca leaves rubbed with llama fat to Pachamama (Mother Earth) for safe passage. Since ancient times they have always connected their energy with the energy of nature. With rivers. With rocks. With trees. With mountains.  Believing that Pachamama feels every single step, every breath and we are absorbing the mountains energy too as we climb. It’s not just to receive but to give back. Reciprocity. So we offered the three coca leaves which represents the Andean trilogy and llama fat to represent natural energy. And we all received a tiny piece of quartz in return. For the rest of the day every time we saw a bird or special animal or watched the water flow through the 600 year old Inca canal, we were being given a gift by Pachamama.

The views and the trekking are beyond what we could have imagined but the openness with which our guides are sharing their ancestors’ religion and beliefs is humbling us all.

RMI Guide Jess and the team

PC: Jess Wedel

Yesterday we were a climbing team, today we are tourists.  But comfortable tourists.  We slept in real beds last night, on level ground, after hot showers and an excellent dinner.  We rolled out of Rivertrees at about 8 AM, heading west.  It took a few hours on two lane highways to reach Lake Manyara National Park.  We did plenty of people watching on the way and saw many cattle herds being shepherded from place to place on the way. 

We spent the afternoon cruising dirt roads through the forest looking for animals.  We saw elephants, a bushbuck, a monitor lizard, baboons and monkeys, impalas, and lion tracks.  There was a leopard… which turned out to be a bird’s nest upon closer inspection.  The lake levels are quite high, reducing animal habitat in the park for the time being, but we enjoyed what we did see.  Our guides, Chacha and Johnson were able to explain what we did see and taught us about the cultures and communities we passed through today. 

 At day’s end we headed up out of the great rift valley and moved toward the Ngorongoro highlands.  Near Karatu, we made our way to the fabulous Plantation Lodge.  It was a pleasure to stroll through lush gardens to luxurious rooms.  We explored the wine cellar and enjoyed a gourmet four course dinner. 

An early start is in order for tomorrow. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

The six day Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise August 15 - 20 led by RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier has enjoyed several days of climbing and training on the mountain.  From glacier travel to camp life and crevasse rescue training the team put all of their skills into play and launched a summit attempt from Camp Muir early this morning. The team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 am and spent a bit of time on top.  They are now descending to Camp Muir and will pack up and return to Paradise later today.

Nice work team!

The Four Day Climb August 17 - 20 led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Raymond Holt and Mac Nolde reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 am today. Pete reported winds 10-20 mph and a descending cloud cap.  The team spent a short time at the crater before starting their descent.  They are en route to Camp Muir and once there will take a quick break before continuing down to Paradise.  The group will end their adventure with a short celebration later this afternoon.

Nice work team!