Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

June 30, 2015

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Walter Hailes led their Four Day Summit Climb Teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 am. Seth reported clear skies, very little wind and warm temperatures. Climbers will return to Camp Muir to rest and repack before continuing their descent down the Muir Snowfield and to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbs team!

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A summit of Rainier, a mountain that seems to taunt me almost daily living in Seattle, has always been a goal. Thanks so much for safely guiding us to the top, Walter, Megan and Nick! You all are an impressive crew.

-Josh

Posted by: Joshua Trujillo on 7/2/2015 at 5:05 pm

Thank you, Walter, Megan, and Nick for helping me complete my fatherly goal of riding the Seattle to Portland bike ride and climbing Mt. Rainier with each of my three kids, Brendan, Patrick, and Brigit!

Posted by: Allen Miller on 7/1/2015 at 6:59 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 17,000’

June 29, 2015

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 29, 2015 5:20 pm PST Hey there, it's Billy checking in from Camp 5 on Denali at over 17,000 ft. Our crew made the move today. We got up super early this morning and made great time moving up the West Buttress. We're settled in now at High Camp. We spent some time, improving one of the campsites and building some walls. And now everybody's snug up in their sleeping bag hanging out in their tents. We're sort of chilling and filling with food and water. We are hoping for a good patch of weather in the next few days so we can maybe take a crack at the summit. Yeah, that's all for now. Everyone is psyched and doing extremely well. We will check in again tomorrow and let you know what happens. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from Camp 5 on Denali.

On The Map

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Hope you summited today. You’ve been in my thoughts all day

Posted by: Stacey on 6/30/2015 at 12:39 pm

Incredible progress - keep it up!!! Hopefully the “Jim jokes” (ask him to tell you the joke about the bell ringer) aren’t ruining everyone’s time up there. Looking forward to updates from the summit…

Posted by: Jessica LaTorre on 6/30/2015 at 12:10 pm

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Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

June 29, 2015

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Greetings from Huaraz! We have arrived to the Andean capital of climbing after our standard eight-hour bus ride from Lima. Everyone is doing great and growing in excitement to get into the range soon. The highlight of the day was to see the Cordillera Blanca as clear as it could be from about two hours out, on a strategic bus stop; a few gasps of amazement were audible. Tomorrow we'll start our acclimatization process with a morning hike on the surrounding hills, to be continued by a packing session before hitting the trails for good the next morning. That's it for now from Huaraz, RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Settled into 11K Camp for an Extended Stay

June 29, 2015

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday June 28th 10:22 pm PT Once again, the weather was a little sloppy in the early hours, so we didn't get out of the tents until the civilized hour of 7AM. It was still pretty well socked in at 9,500 ft as we ate breakfast, but things seemed workable for moving up. We were on the go by 10:00 and in our new camp at 11,000 ft by 1PM. The clouds cleared from time to time, giving us some great views of the end of the West Buttress. Luckily, clouds hung in there enough to keep the sun off the final steeper hills into camp. We dug in and got settled in our new home. It is a relief, after building four camps in four days, to know that we'll get to stay in this one for a few days. The afternoon and evening were spent resting and sorting food and gear. If possible, we'll do a carry to 13,500 ft tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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It sure is refreshing to think of snow in the heat and humidity of DC. If you get chilly along the way just think of us to warm up. What do you folks do for fun while chilling at 11,000 after the day’s work is done? Peter, if you forget to plant that Swiss flag at the top and take a picture of it, plant it in an olive in a martini when you’re down safe. Cheers to all, Charlie

Posted by: Charlie Thomas on 6/30/2015 at 7:14 am

Kenny Cornett- good luck! Get to the top and be safe! Love ya- Rhonda, John, Meriden, and Morgan

Posted by: Rhonda roberts on 6/29/2015 at 8:31 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Teams Unable to Summit

June 29, 2015

Posted by: JJ Justman, Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

The lightning storm prevented the Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams from reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide JJ Justman reported that the teams turned at 11,400' to seek shelter at Camp Muir. Their plan is to descend from Camp Muir around 8:30 am PST. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

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I was watching the blinking light up on the mountain hoping every one would make it back to climb another day. I had gone to the mountain in hopes to capture lightning on film, but it was touching down very close and chickened out. I was at the snow lake trailhead and I think the car parked 40 feet away got hit. What a show!

Posted by: Brian on 6/29/2015 at 8:42 pm

Hey guys, I woke up about 12:30 to the sound of thunder at the Bunkhouse. I sat on the picnic table and watched the light show while hoping you would still make it and that you were all safe. Sorry you had to turn back.

Posted by: kelly gaddis on 6/29/2015 at 1:26 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day

June 28, 2015

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 5:18pm PST Resting here at 14 after a big day yesterday. Clouds and sunshine are in and out along with the occasional bout of flurries. Nothing major to report. Now that we are poised and ready we are just playing a chess match against the weather. Hoping to get that window that will take us to the summit... RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

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I love you! You got this, Uncle Yeti. :)

Posted by: Morgan Deanenne on 6/29/2015 at 7:11 pm

Thoughts are with you as you push for High Camp…go team.

Doug - “A world without dragons is a world not worth living in.” ― R.A. Salvatore, Streams of Silver

Stay safe - move with grace.
~Belladonna

Posted by: Belladonna on 6/29/2015 at 2:04 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back In Talkeetna

June 28, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:15 am PT It was touch and go at base camp. We woke up to clouds and some very wet snow. As expected, as soon as we started to fire up the stoves to make breakfast and hot drinks, the skies started to open just a bit. I still didn't think that the weather was flight worthy, but I was glad that the pilots did. We were told that we had 20 minutes to be packed and ready because the planes were already approaching. We were ready in 10! We got the first half of our team onto a plane and off the glacier before the weather started to sock back in. We had to wait for the first plane to go back to Talkeetna, drop off our first group of climbers, and then return. Luckily the weather cleared back up a bit and we squeaked out the rest of the climbers for the amazing flight back to the world of great food and pillows. After a couple of great meals and a series of showers, the now legendary "El Siete" crew is fresh, semi-recovered, and ready to be reintroduced into society. Thank you to the group for being such a great team and for all of the families and friends that have supported us. RMI 7 "El Siete"

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I want to say, once again, to Mike Haugen about these daily posts and pictures: it has meant so much to the families of these fine climbers. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Posted by: Chris on 6/28/2015 at 6:06 pm

Whoopee! So glad to have you off the mountain safe and secure at last. Doug is that you standing to the left? I can see everyone is proud and delighted to have had this grand adventure.

Posted by: Chris on 6/28/2015 at 6:03 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry to High Camp

June 28, 2015

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 12:20 am PST Big day today... In spite of the forecast for 6-12" of new snow to fall today we awoke to partly cloudy skies, sun breaks, and only occasional flurries. Our long-shot plan to carry was a reality. We got rolling and packed up loads of supplies for High Camp and after a quick breakfast we made moves for the headwall and the fixed lines. After a few growing pains the team hit their stride and were able to put a cache in all the way up at high camp. The need for a back-carry could have hamstrung us on our move but since we cached at camp we are sitting pretty, waiting for our summit attempt weather window to open up. We're planning on a rest day tomorrow and then it's game on. We're a tired bunch but we know that today's hard work will pay off. All for now! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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beard looks good on you !

Posted by: MARK AND HELEN WALSH on 6/29/2015 at 6:14 am

Hard work paying off indeed team - rest and be ready!

Doug - “If the sky could dream, it would dream of dragons”
-Llona Andrews, Fate’s Edge

Stay safe on the dragon’s back. ~Belladonna

Posted by: Belladonna on 6/28/2015 at 11:28 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 9,500’

June 28, 2015

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,500'

June 27, 2015 10:32 pm PST We intended to get stirring by about 2:30 this morning, but to no one's disappointment, that didn't happen. It was socked-in and cloudy then with wettish snow in the air. Likewise at 3 AM, not so good, and not at 3:30 either. But then things started looking up. We got up just after five and were climbing by 8:45. Conditions were once again great for climbing. With snowshoes on, we stayed right on the snow surface, as did our sleds. Without too much trouble, we got up "Ski Hill" and hit our intended camp at 9,500 ft around noon. By then we were in the clouds again and light snow was falling, but we'd gotten high enough to make things cold and so wetness was no longer a problem. The team all pitched in admirably to build a new camp and then retreated for afternoon naps. It was burrito night in the POSH tent where we were comfortably seated on snow benches out of the weather. We'll see about moving up to 11,000' tomorrow if folks are feeling good and the weather gives a break. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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not enuff blog not enuff pics! the suspense of the venture is killin us

Posted by: kathie grengs on 6/29/2015 at 10:31 am

For Gary Ross/Team 4 (Hahn Team):

Gary - Take the “Top of the Line” to the Top of Denali.

Rangers Lead The Way!!!!!!!

Chip Sniffin / Executive Director, Sherpa Support Team

Posted by: Chip Sniffin on 6/29/2015 at 8:24 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit on Top with 100% of Team

June 28, 2015

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita and all of his climbing team were descending from the Mt. Rainier's crater rim at 6:33 am PST. Brent reported good conditions with some high clouds and winds 15-20 mph. The team will return to Camp Muir, repack and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to the entire Summit Climb team!

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Thanks to our guides Brent, Nick, and Blake for all your hard work and kindness. I had a great time, and I know the rest of the team did as well. Your attention to detail, professionalism, and focus on safety really shine through. I look forward to seeing you back on the mountain sometime soon

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 17,000’

On The Map

Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Settled into 11K Camp for an Extended Stay

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Teams Unable to Summit

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back In Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry to High Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 9,500’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit on Top with 100% of Team

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