Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt.Rainier: June 9th Teams on Top!

June 9, 2015

Posted by: Ben Liken, Elias de Andres Martos, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Elías de Andrés Martos and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning and were beginning their descent from the summit around 7AM. It's a beautiful day with clear skies and warm temperatures, the guides did report some strong winds on the upper mountain. Both climbing teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. The teams will return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon. On the Kautz Glacier route, RMI Guide Leon Davis led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team will descend back to camp for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow, they will descend to Paradise before returning to Ashford in the afternoon. Congratulations Summit Climb and Seminar Climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck Dad!! stay safe! I love you❤️

Posted by: Maranda Sears on 6/24/2015 at 7:41 pm

Congrats to John Stout and team. It sounds like it was a great trek except for wind. Safe travels down to Paradise!
Teena

Posted by: Teena McDonald on 6/9/2015 at 8:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Getting Strong at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2015, 6:16 pm PT Not too much to report from camp today. The weather was moderate, but not good enough to coax us out for a walk or carry up hill. At this point the team is just focusing on resting, meeting the neighbors and getting ready to utilize the next window of good weather. Speaking of neighbors, the most exciting news of the day is that we are joining Tyler Jones' team for dinner tonight. After ten days on the glacier together, the whole team is ready to interact with some new faces and hear new stories. Tyler's team was nice enough to invite invite us over for a round of loaded quesadillas. The only remaining question is what we should take as a house warming gift. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looks like it is going to be a good time while having a great climb.

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/10/2015 at 10:54 am

Sounds like a big RMI shindig. I certainly hope Pete brought his guitar for dinner entertainment purposes.

What? He left it home? Are you kidding me?

Good luck to you all.

Art Muir

Posted by: Art Muir on 6/9/2015 at 2:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ascend Fixed Lines

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Chase Nelson, Lindsay Mann, Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2015, 4:37 pm PT Firing the Fixed lines! Today it was a good day. We woke in the bitter cold at 14 camp and slowly rose from our warm down feathers. With coffee and a bowl of granola we clipped in to our ropes. Finding rather pleasant walking conditions, we smoothly flowed up the slopes below the Headwall then gained the fixed lines up to 16,200ft. Our last 20 minutes up the lines provided brisk winds and motivated our super strong team to depart the lines and pass the ridge where the winds became a light breeze. This was a welcome way to spend our break and unload our final cache of food and fuel for our summit push! The team prepared for the descent back down in the brisk wind. With the confidence of great mountaineers we smoothly cruised down to our camp. Then a session with our grand lunch sacks along with a well deserved afternoon nap. The evening will be a group dinner with the West Rib crew. Likely to consist of big fried quesadillas laughter and friendships forged! Till tomorrow, Positive Vibes! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann & Chase Nelson

On The Map

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Ken,
We’re all pulling for you and the team. Enjoy your last few days on the mountain.Looking forward to all the stories.
Jim

Posted by: Jim Rowe on 6/9/2015 at 4:55 pm

Ken, you and the team are getting closer every day. I am excited for you. Hang in there, enjoy the journey as you pursue that dream. Thoughts, prayers, and positive vibes all headed your way.
Dennis

Posted by: Dennis on 6/9/2015 at 7:57 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Builds a Snow Fortress

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2015, 10:59 am PT After a strenuous day getting to 14 Camp yesterday, we slept in this morning. The sun crept into camp around 9:15 am and we slow crawled out of our tents shortly thereafter. The weather today was pretty good but the forecast is calling for some more snow and wind so we spent the day building giant snow walls around our camp and resting. The team is doing very well and acclimating well. If the weather is good tomorrow we might go do a short walk up the West Rib but either way we are dug in here at 14,200' and are ready for whatever the weather gods allow us to do. That's all for now. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach the Summit!

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Zeb Blais led the Five Day Summit Climb June 4 - 8 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb June 5 - 8 was led by Mike Haugen. Both teams reached the summit early this morning. They were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. Zeb reported pleasant weather with winds from the west. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short time before continuing their descent to Paradise and returning to Ashford. Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Congratulations to all! Te amo mucho Papi!

Posted by: kathey doll on 6/9/2015 at 8:28 am

Waiting for some picture posts from the Mount Rainier RMI Expedition Team that formed their climb from Ashland on Saturday 6/6, then on Sunday 6/7 training in Paradise, then to Camp Muir on Monday 6/8, and to the summit on Tuesday 6/9…...Hope all is Splendor for you each!!!!

Posted by: Roxanne Jones on 6/9/2015 at 7:59 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 7, 2015, 9:45 pm PT After surviving our first chilly night at 14K Camp, everyone walked into the posh this morning to the sweet smell of blueberry pancakes. Cooking at 14,000ft is quite difficult on any day but Tyler made pancakes that would have made Grandpa Jerry proud. Post breakfast we took advantage of the nice weather and prepared our camp for a nuclear winter. Hopefully the weather will stay nice but if not we are prepared for the worst. After our wall building session we did some more training for the upper mountain. The guides set up a fixed-line obstacle course that everyone marched around in like a group of trained gorillas. Tomorrow we hope to carry to the top of the fixed lines, but as always, we will see what Mother Nature brings. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Congrats to all for your new found height! I am in awe of all. Went golfing in Victor Utah today. Sunny and 76 is good anywhere I suppose

Posted by: Frank Suring on 6/8/2015 at 4:26 pm

Everyone I know that knows you has their fingers crossed for good weather to hold.

Posted by: Mike Taylor on 6/8/2015 at 8:43 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hit The Glacier Running

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Andrew Kiefer, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Sunday, June 7, 2015 7:42 pm PT Yesterday we stormed the Kahiltna Glacier, officially ending our occupation of Talkeetna. We were able to catch an early afternoon flight, skirting the clouds and safely getting ourselves and all our groceries into the mountains! We expected a huge backlog of climbers at basecamp, and there were more than a few parties waiting to get off the mountain. However a buried tent city resembling a parking lot of white Fiats, was nowhere to be found. We landed to spectacular views and decided to hit the ground running. Making it to 7,800 Camp in the evening was a great start to the climb. Today we got a reasonable start to the day, leaving camp at mid morning and carrying to 9,700 feet. It was a pleasant day for walking, with enough cloud cover to keep us from getting too scorched. The team made it and we are now resting before dinner. Hopefully we can use that fuel to move to 11K Camp. Keep those fingers crossed for good weather! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Craig and Eric Hi from a much lower elevation. Reading the blog daily so we know you and the team must be happy to be on the mountain and making progress Hope you don’t need to test the coldest protection level of your clothing and sleeping bag. Temperatures look impressive for California boys but know you will source your MN and Scandanavian roots.
All is well here. Climb on! Love Libby and Julia

Posted by: Libby and Julia Heimark on 6/11/2015 at 5:25 am

Dear Craig and Eric,

We wish both of you and the team a safe and fabulous journey. Hope the conditions are ideal.

Take care,

Linda, Ed, and Jared

Posted by: Linda on 6/10/2015 at 7:19 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Headed Home

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 7, 2015, 4:47 pm PT It is difficult to find a place to begin the final dispatch of our group's grand adventure. No mountain climbing objective quite compares to the raw and unprecedented challenge of Denali. Having been here nine times before, the burrito of emotions ranging from excitement and joy to anxiety and fear all get rolled into one and when the plane takes off and you go past the point of no return, managing all these feelings becomes more than half the battle. I have seen this mountain crack the hardest of nuts. Climbers who have summitted 8000 meter peaks routinely come here and say it is the hardest mountain they have ever attempted. In the broad scope of mountaineering landscapes, "The High One" stands alone, both on the tundra and in our lives. With this said, no one is prouder of the group than I am. Two days ago we began our march from 14,000 feet down into the unknown. With wind gusts strong enough to make walking feel like a mosh pit and snow conditions making hide-and-go-seek with crevasses a heart-pounding game, we honestly didn't know what the next hour, let alone day, would bring. After a brief visit at 11,000 feet we kept going into the ginormous ping pong ball navigating only with GPS. At 9,000 feet we had to stop. This sort of challenge became par for the course. Yesterday morning, despite the feet of new snow, everyone's energy, motivation and attitude never wavered. Four hours after leaving camp we were at the air strip and 45 minutes after arriving we were on a plane back to civilization. We fly into Denali as someone and we fly off of Denali as someone else. I have been changed by the mountain many times. Very rarely has a group such as this had a profound influence on that change. It was an honor to lead you all. Thanks again to Nick and Andy for being such hard working and trustworthy partners on the guiding front. You both rock! Thanks also to those who followed along. The stories of what happens the night you return to food and drink will have to be shared in person. Until the next adventure. Keep climbing. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Thanks to Adam and the other guides for a safe ascent and return. You did an amazing job with the group and we are proud of the whole team. The weather sounded tough but you all were more tough! Safe travels to your home ports and wishing you all well again!!

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 6/8/2015 at 8:17 am

So very proud of each member of the team and the guides for support and tenacity that must.have permeated your very beings to make this such a successful journey up and down the mighty Mt McKinley. Will, so looking forward to hearing all of the details, congratulations. Well done. XOXOXO

Posted by: Carolyn on 6/8/2015 at 6:19 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 7th Summit!

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Casey Grom called from the Mount Rainier summit at 7:15 a.m. His team was on top in warm temperatures at no winds. They began their descent just after the radio call. Congratulations to the summit climb team!

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 14,200’ Camp

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 6th 10:55 p.m. PT After three days of significant snowfall, we awoke this morning to mostly clear skies and moderate winds. Three days of laying in a tent will make anyone antsy, and, understandably, the team was raring to head up hill. We used the energy and enthusiasm to make a move to Mount McKinley's 14K camp. After an hour of wallowing through deep snow, we escaped onto firmer terrain and found ourselves here in camp six hours later. Everyone is tired from the exertion, but elated to be this high on the mountain. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kim, John and Marko want to see pics of the outhouse if you could please post. John wants to know if you’re packing out toilet paper. Please advise.

Posted by: Maria, John, Marko on 6/8/2015 at 9:49 am

Great job Kim and team getting to 14K camp!! I hope the weather holds out for you guys for the rest of the trip. Wishing you lot of luck and clear days ahead!! Cheers, Cindee

Posted by: Cindee on 6/8/2015 at 9:17 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt.Rainier: June 9th Teams on Top!

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Getting Strong at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ascend Fixed Lines

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Builds a Snow Fortress

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach the Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hit The Glacier Running

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Headed Home

Mt. Rainier: June 7th Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 14,200’ Camp

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