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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: June 12th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Mike Soucy reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Team reported strong winds, clouds and deteriorating weather. They have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Team!
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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Adventure to the Edge of the World

Thursday June 11th 5:50 pm PT Again we remain at 14,000 foot camp as we wait for the weather to turn for a summit bid. The snow keeps coming down around here like coconut flakes sprinkled on ice cream. We did take advantage of a short break in the clouds this morning to walk to the Edge of the World, a viewpoint to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna several thousand feet below. Waddling out onto the saddle rock is an existential experience indeed, having all that air underneath you really makes you feel alive! After our trek to the Edge of the World, we enjoyed a nice mid-morning brunch. With chilly temperatures and a light breeze we crawled back into our tents for an afternoon reading session. A few hours later we greeted Jake's team, who carried from 11K Camp. It was nice to see his team, they all seemed to be doing well. Keep sending good weather vibes our way! RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken we are all still pulling for you. I know you are having a great time seeing some amazing sights. Can’t wait to hear about it when you get back. Praying for good weather so you can make that summit. Dennis

Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/12/2015 at 5:46 pm

Ken, here’s a poem for you and the team…

And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. Anais Nin

Posted by: Anna Fisher on 6/12/2015 at 2:01 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 11th Summit!

Today's Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs, led by Seth Waterfall and Sid Pattison, reached the summit early this morning. The weather report was beautiful skies and winds about 35-40 mph from the Northeast. Both teams began their descent back to Camp Muir at 7:15 am PT. Congratulations summit teams!
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CONGRADULATIONS.  ALL!!!  Keith your training paid off!!!  Can’t wait to hear the details.

Posted by: Bill Thomas on 6/11/2015 at 11:39 am

Congratulations, Everyone.  Keith Miller . . . I’m sure you were there on the top doing the happy dance.  I hope so.  I made it to the top of Rainier in 2010 with Set and Solveig—you were in good hands my friend.  Wished I had been there with you.

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 6/11/2015 at 11:23 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Waiting for a Break

Wednesday June 10th 5:30 pm PT Today brings more snow to Mt. McKinley at 14,000ft. After coffee, bagels and bacon everyone spent a few hours lounging in their tents before starting the afternoon projects. The camp project consisted of building an enclosed toilet. A true architectural feat, I might add. The secondary project was a remodel of the posh tent, which consisted of lowering the floor to give us a bit more headroom. Our camp looks great and hopefully we will get some good weather coming our way this weekend. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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DG, Tyler,
          Sounds like the Taj Ma Staul is the evnv of camp 14 again now to stand guard to keep everyone else from using it.  Hope the weather gets better for you guys so wish I was there. Have a safe and fun climb.

Posted by: Dave Johnson on 6/11/2015 at 12:37 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry from 11K Camp

Wednesday, June 10th 10:15 pm PT The winds subsided enough today to allow us safe passage back to our buried cache at 9,600 feet. It was a fun stroll and though we broke trail in a full whiteout to get there, we enjoyed extremely pleasant walking conditions on our quest for the rest of our snacks. The afternoon held time for a nap and a review of climbing techniques before dinner. If the weather cooperates we are set to jet and bump a load higher on the route tomorrow. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Good going AJ and team! Hope you guys are having fun at your adventure. Good luck and be safe.

Posted by: Charu on 6/12/2015 at 3:00 pm

I was reading the Jones Team blog and it sounds like your group has already been up to the 1400 foot point.  Way to go! Keep it up!

Posted by: Norm Vork on 6/12/2015 at 7:34 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Bides Their Time

All of the pieces are in place for an attempt on the Upper West Rib, now we are just waiting on the weather. With yesterday's carry to 16,400ft we have had a chance to stress our bodies and progress the acclimatization process. The weather in the Alaska range can be a fickle thing. Moisture from the south mixes with frigid temperatures from the north, and the resulting scale of weather can be anything from light snow flakes to true arctic blizzards. Right now we are in a holding pattern waiting for the snow to stop. It has only snowed a few inches today, but two feet are predicted for the coming 48 hours. With our shovels at the ready we are waiting to see if the prediction comes true. There is a silver lining to the forecast, however. It appears as though after this round of snowfall, the weather will stabilize and we may get our window to climb. That is still a few days out, but we are hopeful. The highlight around camp today was a potluck style lunch. After two weeks on the glacier a little variety in the daily diet was a welcomed change. Thanks for following along, and if anyone feels like overnight shipping a snowblower and a few gallons of gas our way, it would be much appreciated. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank and the UWR team.
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Hi Kim!  Cannot believe all the snow!  Hope you are not getting too frustrated, I certainly admire your stamina!  On the bright side - the 17 year cicadas are in the midwest right now.  Hope it clears up soon!  Love, Momma

Posted by: Jane Lubow on 6/10/2015 at 9:02 pm


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Carry to 16,400’

June 9, 2015, 9:46 pm PT The weather forecast has been calling for an impending storm, luckily it held off until late this afternoon. This morning we woke, ate a quick breakfast, and rigged for caching up on the Rib. With light loads and good climbing conditions the team made good time as we worked our way up to the West Rib. Clouds and light winds picked up in the afternoon and we decided to cache at 16,400'. Clouds enveloped us on our decent and the winds kicked up shortly after we returned to 14 Camp. The team did great and we are now in a great position to push higher when the weather allows. Everyone is well and looking forward to more climbing. Until we get our weather window we are maintaining excitement by focusing on the small things. For example, tomorrow we are planning a potluck lunch and maybe some competitive napping. That's all for now. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

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Kimmer!!! Y’all are amazeballs!!!! Way to go!!! I must quote Dr. Shelly now “things are getting very exciting”!!! Marina & Sophia say hello and give you kisses!! Have you made a Pringles, pb&j quesadilla yet???
Xoxoxo
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/10/2015 at 11:51 am

Hi Kim, Great update! We are all so pleased that you & the team are on the “move”!  Wow…16,400’ for the carry! Now lets all hope the weather “breaks” soon & you have a great “window” that will allow the team to take the next big “step”! Travel safe & stay well!!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/10/2015 at 8:39 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Mike King reached the summit this morning around 7 am. The teams enjoyed clear skies and warm temperatures with some windy conditions. Both teams will descend to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams.
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What an amazing experience.  Brent, Lance, & JM did an incredible job getting us to the summit and I had a great time meeting our team. Definitely a trip to remember. Kudos to the RMI staff for a job well done.

Posted by: daniel on 6/11/2015 at 12:21 pm

Zach and Molly…....way to go!  Summit day 4….we are so proud of you!!!!  YAY Marquette flag on top! XOXO

Posted by: Christiane & Jim on 6/10/2015 at 4:04 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Pretty at 14,200’

June 9, 2015, 4:22 pm PT Last night we had a fiesta with the Upper West Rib team. It was a posh full of laughs, stories, and quesadillas. This morning we slept in and enjoyed a bagel and salmon breakfast over stories and Via coffee. The team spent most of the day in the posh battling it out at Phase Ten (a card game). The rest of the day has been spent lounging and grazing on food. We are hoping for some good weather this weekend and with good neighbors, good food, and some good tunes we are sitting pretty up here at 14,000'. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We miss you so much and can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Hope you’re kicking everyone’s butt at phase ten and taking lots of pictures!
See you soon!
Love Jennifer, Lila & Owen
xox

Posted by: Jen on 6/12/2015 at 11:24 am

Mark & Dave,
Hey boys, glad to hear you guys are steadily making your way to the top! We are on the blog every chance we get, hoping for the next post on how you guys are doing and Lila love to tell me that “Daddy is hiking in the mountains with Unkey Dave”

Posted by: Jennifer on 6/11/2015 at 8:53 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

June 9, 2015, 3:39 pm PT Awaking to light snow and little wind yesterday we decided to see if moving was realistic. Denali decided to make us earn it and we climbed through consistent wind and snow to make it up here. The team did great, and evening found us snug in our sleeping bags. This morning we battled the same wind and snow that followed us up from 7,800' as we fortified our living space, building artistic (yet functional) walls to protect us from the elements. This afternoon we will rest and recover from a few big days before retrieving our cache and sending a new one higher on the route. Great to be posted up higher on the Great One. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Meredith! We are following your progress like hawks. Kim and I pray for your guys, your happiness, and your safety. Hope this is everything you dreamed it would be and more. We are taking good care of each other and each time we are together, we think of you!
David

Posted by: David on 6/10/2015 at 3:18 pm

Hi Meredith!  Hope you are having fun and that the sunny skies return.  Thinking of you!!!!!!

Posted by: Christi on 6/10/2015 at 8:21 am

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