Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Walter Hailes, Chase Halbert, Erika Birkeland, Avery Parrinello, Grayson Swingle, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Avery Parrinello led the Five Day Climb to Ingraham Flats, 11,200', this morning. High winds overnight at Camp Muir had prevented the teams getting an alpine start and thus they were unable to make a summit attempt. Winds at Camp Muir averaged between 40 - 80 mph with gusts as high as 93 mph around 9 pm.
Once the winds subsided later in the morning the teams roped up and traveled to Ingraham Flats to check out the conditions and see a bit of the route. They will return to Camp Muir and descend to Paradise later this morning.
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Hey-O,
A day of rest and preparation was what we needed. We started the day with a casual breakfast of breakfast burritos and coffee followed by a lot of down time. If we weren't napping, eating, or reading we were going through our gear and food separating it into piles, one that would stay with us and one that we would cache higher up. It is always a hard decision trying to decide what food to part ways with but it is always a fun moment when you are reunited in a couple days. Later in the afternoon we reviewed some cramponing techniques before heading to dinner. One of the highlights of the day was the evening entertainment, watching skiers manage their sled down motorcycle hill...lets just say there were some wipeouts but the skiers were all good sports as they skied into camp knowing they were the reality TV show of the night. As the sun started to hide behind some swirling clouds the temps dropped and it is time for bed. Tomorrow we will carry to 13,500' to off load some of our gear to make our move to 14,000' Camp lighter.
Till tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, June 14, 2021 - 9:31 pm PT
Today we carried supplies and personal gear up to 17,000' Camp. The team performed amazingly for their first time on fixed lines and dealing with thousands of feet of exposure and running belays.
We floated past other teams, seemingly effortlessly as they cached lower on the West Buttress, but we were moving so efficiently and the day was perfectly clear and windless, so we decided to cache all the way at 17,000' Camp.
It’s now 8 o’clock in the evening and we are about to enjoy some dinner and a much deserved night of rest.
All the best from the team at 14,000' Camp.
Thinking of everyone as you prepare to summit! Stay safe and strong ! Enjoy the adventure !
Posted by: Ann VanO on 6/16/2021 at 8:44 am
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, June 13, 2021 - 9:25 pm PT
Greetings,
Excitement is high as we made it to 11K Camp today. Before waking to break down camp and hit the snow highway, we got a chance to congratulate Mike King and team on their successful expedition as they made their way to the airstrip. Its easy to let your mind wander to what luxuries they will get while we pull heavy sleds with heavy packs. But we have to stay focus because our journey has just begun. Part of the excitment of today is knowing that this was our last day hauling all our gear at once. From here on out we will begin doing carries which will lessen the overall weight on our bodies. Today is also exciting because we get to settle in for a few days, which I like to call nesting, creating a cozy home. Tomorrow morning we won't have to wake early and break down camp but instead we will enjoy a well desereved rest day. Relaxing, recovering, eating and sleeping is the name of the game for tomorrow.
Talk to you all tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Looks amazing - well done to all the team !! Stay safe. These updates and pictures are just brilliant to see and get, thank you for sharing. We miss and love you loads Hollie and Shane. x x x
Looking forward to more pictures
Posted by: Kelly, David Kyla, Cameron & Cole on 6/15/2021 at 7:35 am
BJ - I am so impressed with your accomplishment and I wish you and your team the very best and safest trip going forward. I miss you and I love you tremendously. Take good care of yourself. Anna Geigle
Posted by: Anna Geigle on 6/14/2021 at 7:21 pm
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Sunday, June 13, 2021 - 3:34 pm PT
Today we enjoyed a full rest day at Denali 14K Camp. Everyone is feeling nice and dried out and rested. The weather is gorgeous and is supposedly going to be nice for us to carry above the fixed lines tomorrow!
Stay tuned,
RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team
We are sending positive thoughts to everyone for a successful climb to the summit! Stay safe, strong and positive!
Posted by: Barb n John The Parents on 6/15/2021 at 8:52 pm
Great progress! The scene looks simply amazing. Be honest, how much “up your gas” have you taken so far? :) Good luck and be safe.
-Powder Hound
Posted by: Greg on 6/15/2021 at 2:43 am
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
Saturday, June 12, 2021 - 9:15 pm PT
Hello all,
The team has made it a day closer to the summit. Ski hill was a leg burner first thing this morning. It has been the most sustained uphill thus far, but the team walked strong and arrived to camp in good style. Clear skies and lots of sun made for a very toasty afternoon. It can be easy to forget how cold this mountain gets when you feel like you are sleeping on a tropical island, baking in these tents. As the evening progresses the temps will drop, and the cool brisk air will be a welcomed feeling as we cozy up in our sleeping bags.
Tomorrow we move to 11k camp. It is an exciting move because we will spend at least three days there. No more wake, move, sleep repeat. It’s always fun to settle into a camp and make it home for more than a day.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Saturday, June 12. 2021 - 7:51 pm PT
Today we back carried to our cache at 13,500, which was a great way to get a little exercise. We now have all of our supplies up with us at 14 camp and are ready for a full rest day tomorrow!
The weather is beautiful, hot and sunny during the day, albeit quite cold at night. We truly are in the land of extremes. Our camp looks dialed and clean, our team is working as a well-oiled machine.
All the best from 14 camp and hope everyone is well!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team
So enjoying watching your trek from afar. Would take a bit of that coolness - quite hot and humid here in MO.
Posted by: Melody Reardon on 6/13/2021 at 9:01 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT
Today we traded the damp snowy conditions of 11K Camp for the cold dry conditions of 14K Camp and it sure feels good! The team had a long heavy day moving from 11K but everyone performed as we are beginning to expect, strongly.
We had a great dinner of chicken and rice, and are now getting warm in our sleeping bags, feeling accomplished and happy to be up at Denali's 14K Camp.
Tomorrow we plan to back carry and improve camp.
RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and team
Jack - Glad you and Nick and the crew are safe and still feeling strong. So sad to hear of those that had to be helicoptered out. Really excited every time you ascend to the next camp. Look forward to watching your progress further north!
Posted by: Barb n John The Parents on 6/12/2021 at 6:31 pm
Nick, Jack and team - Keep strong! Enjoy the journey! Looks amazing! Thinking of you. - mom and dad.
Posted by: Nick's parents on 6/12/2021 at 11:06 am
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Update: Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT
We woke to a clear and "warm" by 17K Camp standards morning and decided to get out in front of the inevitable hoard of climbers that would be attempting the summit today. With cold hands and toes warming up by the time we got to Denali Pass we kept breaking trail in spots and resting on what was the warmest and windless summit day I’ve been a part of. Some of the group had just a base layer and light weight gloves on at 19,500'. Everyone in the group, 9 climbers and 3 guides stood on top of the tallest peak in North America. We got some good views of the surrounding glacier and mountains. We even had 2 returning climbers who got turned around 2 years ago due to bad weather. Your loved ones will have all sorts of stories to share, know that they are safe in camp and taking care of themselves after an arduous 14-hour day. We will plan to descend to 14K Camp tomorrow and perhaps lower if the weather cooperates. While the objective we all set out 2 weeks ago has been accomplished, we still have a lot of terrain to navigate so we can get to the airstrip for flights on Sunday or Monday (weather permitting). Thanks for following along!
Friday, June 11, 2021 - 4:00 pm PT
We received word this afternoon from RMI Guide Mike King that his team was on the summit of Denali with 100% of their team members. We wish them a safe descent and a hearty congratulations for all their hardwork!
Way to go team!
Congratulations to all! Way to go, Huw!
Posted by: Traci Gentry on 6/14/2021 at 11:05 am
Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Thanks for getting your team and our son safely back to sea level, we enjoyed the daily Blog and was excited to hear that all the team members reach the summit safely, Thanks again.
Mom and Dad Fortier
Posted by: Robert Fortier on 6/13/2021 at 6:22 pm
The Mt. Rainier Climb, led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Dan Windham, had high winds and new snow at Camp Muir last night. These conditions kept the team hunkered down at Camp Muir. Both teams began their descent back to Paradise at 8:00 a.m.
Hey Sami/ Hector
Is nice to hear all is going well with the team. I hope you are enjoying all that beauty. I wish I could be there.. perhaps one day.
Devin and the kids went backpacking this weekend to the Adirondacks they were going to be thinking on you so they said.
Father’s Day is approaching so hopefully Sunday gets to be an awesome day for you up there. Stay strong and listen to your body.
Sending you a big hug of strength .
Your sister !
You know which one .
Love you !
Posted by: Priscila Hernandez on 6/18/2021 at 4:31 pm
Great work Team Smith! It’s so worth all of the suffering, keep your eye on the prize!
Best wishes for great weather!
Ron Richmeier
Posted by: Ron Richmeier on 6/18/2021 at 1:23 pm
View All Comments