Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Summit

June 22, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Christina Dale have reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Eric reported chilly temperatures and light winds. The teams will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Chad you are so strong and amazing! I am so proud of you! I can’t wait to hear your stories!!!

Posted by: Donna on 6/22/2018 at 10:58 am

So proud of you Chad. Can’t wait to hear all about it and see some stellar Picts. Hopefully the skys were open?

Posted by: Ryan on 6/22/2018 at 10:49 am

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Move to 7,800 and Set Up Camp

June 22, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:39 PM PT We were up at 2 AM for our much anticipated launch from Denali Basecamp. It was still cloudy and overcast and seemed to be moving toward being more cloudy and overcast, but we felt we had something of a window for moving. After a hot breakfast, we knocked down tents and rigged up for glacial travel. By 4:38 we were walking down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna with our snowshoes on. A number of other teams had begun climbing in the hours ahead of our departure, so the soft snow trail was packed nicely for us. As expected, glacier conditions were good and it was a relief not to be crossing open crevasses and sagging snow bridges. There wasn’t too much to see with all of the cloud, so we just concentrated on walking steady for an hour at a push. We very nearly saw the sun at one point just after 8 AM but that was it despite this being the Solstice and a traditional big day for sun worshipers. Five and a half hours brought us to 7800 ft, and our intended destination. By that point the clouds were right down on us and it was snowing lightly. We built a quick camp and got inside before it got snowing a little more heavily in the early afternoon. We snoozed and drank water to recover from the morning workout. The wet snow continued right through dinner, but we weren’t so uncomfortable in our cozy dining tent with snow benches and countertops. Now that all are in bed, the snow keeps on coming, but quietly... there is no wind and that is a good thing. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Glad to see that you all are moving. And what a joy it must’ve been to see Denali out in its full glory. Wishing you good weather and safe climbing ahead. Thinking about you lots Margaret and Jon. Holding down the fort here in Anchorage, Hugs from Melonie and licks from Wiz

Posted by: Melonie Rieck on 6/22/2018 at 11:32 pm

Climb on Tom, Sending those strength and good weather prayers your way Brother!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/22/2018 at 10:16 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

June 22, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:16 PM PT After the Hurricane Horiskey beatdown and yesterday’s big move we decided today was a great day to rest and let our bodies begin to acclimatize to the higher altitudes. So we slept until the sun hit our tents and then we enjoyed a hardy meal of breakfast quesos and talked strategy for our cache day tomorrow. Post breakfast we enjoyed an afternoon snooze (have to let the breakfast settle) and then did some organizational prep before rollin on into dinner and a celebration of Josh’s 48 birthday! He had a smile bigger than the solstice sun when we sung him Happy Birthday and presented him with a cheesecake and mini cake complete with a candle. After filling our bellies we dispersed to our tents and are enjoying the rest of solstice snuggled up waiting for our cache day tomorrow. All is well here with our Super Crew! Happy solstice everyone! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp Hopeful for Break in Weather

June 22, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:04 PM PT Yup, just another weather day here at 14,000' Camp on Denali. Snow and calm air the entire day. Breakfast was ate, coffee drank and cards played throughout the day in the Posh. We were hopeful this low pressure system was breaking up tomorrow. Instead it looks to be a Saturday to Monday window. We'll wake up at 5 am and check the weather. Fingers crossed we can get to 17 camp and be on the summit Saturday. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

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Wishing clear skies boys! All the best, Yeagers

Posted by: Dave Yeager on 6/22/2018 at 7:16 pm

JT-

Woo hoo! Looks like you may get a break in the weather soon? No recent JT type 2 adventures to report.. Thinking of all you guys on the homestretch! Hopefully you’ll be on that summit soon. Hugs!

Madeline

Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/22/2018 at 1:18 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Headed Home

June 21, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott, along with their expedition team flew off of Denali on June 20th. They will be headed home from Anchorage in the next couple of days.

Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Reid Summit!

June 21, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Pete Van Deventer and Tyler Reid, reached the summit this morning! The guides reported the weather is perfect with no wind and a cloud deck around 7,500'. Both teams began their descent around 7:45 a.m. Congratulations to today summit climb teams!

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Tremendous accomplishment Drew, Mike and Trey! ;)Norah&family;

Posted by: Norah on 6/23/2018 at 2:48 pm

Way to go Eamon, Colin, Elliot, and Noah! Woohoo! xo

Posted by: Erin Maureen O'Rourke on 6/21/2018 at 11:18 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 21, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, June 20, 2018 -- 11:14 PM PT As it turns out, the sun does still exist!! We saw it last night— well actually just the cold sunlight that reflected off the moon— but it was surrounded by bright blue sky and we finally got to see the gorgeousness of the landscape we’ve been inhabiting for days. We woke in a white out but made the move to 11,000' Camp anyway, with the thought that we must be right at the top of the clouds. Sure enough, we were right! Our new home at 11,000' welcomed us with sunshine to dry out our gear and allow for lounging not in a tent. After a big burrito dinner we are fat and happy back in our sleeping bags, but this time they’re dry and our alarms aren’t set to wake up every hour for shoveling. Much love to all of you who care enough to listen in! Sending special birthday wishes to Cody, Lindsey’s brother! With love, RMI Super Crew

On The Map

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I know the sunshine must have brightened your spirits and renewed your energy to keep on climbing.. Sounds like you all have a great, strong team.. Can hardly wait to hear from you again, you’re a fantastic group…. Love to you Lindsay and Matt..

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/22/2018 at 12:27 pm

Sorry we couldn’t connect yesterday, Glo! But so glad you are steadily getting higher. We had a solstice fire and we all thought of you on the cold and now sunny mountain. Love you to pieces.

Mom

Posted by: michelle on 6/22/2018 at 10:22 am

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

June 21, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 9:52 PM PT This is one lucky team of climbers. We woke in Talkeetna under cloudy skies... pretty much the same cloudy skies that had kept anybody else from flying during the past six days. It sprinkled rain on us as we ventured out for breakfast but by the time we’d eaten, our pilots surprised us by announcing that basecamp was in the clear and that it was time to fly. We geared up, loaded the planes and lifted off by 9:15. The ski equipped DeHaviland Otters got us through to Kahiltna Base Camp by about 10 AM. Views while flying weren’t stupendous since there was still plenty of cloud hiding the big peaks, but as we got into the center of the range, the lower parts of the big peaks were stupendous enough in their own rite. Basecamp at 10 AM was a very busy and bustling place after a week of no-fly days. Tyler Jones and his RMI team loaded onto the planes we vacated. They’d finished a storm plagued trip and hadn’t been able to move to high camp or summit but they appeared happy and healthy just the same. We built camp and spent the day reviewing glacier travel techniques and sorting gear and supplies. The team seems pretty at home in this world already. We’re hopeful this break in the weather will last... that said, now -at 9 PM- it is snowing lightly. So much recent snow has sure been a good thing for healing up the lower glacier. Word is that open crevasses are few and far between and sketchy bridges are scarce. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Hi sue. Watching your climb! You go girl. Jim and patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/24/2018 at 1:24 pm

Job and Margaret, everyone back home is pulling for the two of you! God speed!

Posted by: Frank Romano on 6/22/2018 at 6:51 am

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Went for a Walk Today

June 20, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 20th - 8:18 pm PT We woke to clouds and snow at 14K Camp today. We were hoping for clear weather to make a carry to 17K Camp; unfortunately, the winds up high prevented us from getting on the fixed lines. We eventually went for a walk up towards 15,000' to stretch our legs and lungs. The Team got a spectacular view of Genet Basin and the lower Kahiltna Glacier. We are back in camp now and continue to hang out at 14K. The forecast has been accurate for 17K and above but not so for 14K Camp. We'll need to see decreasing winds up high to make our move and if we don't get that in a few days the only option will be to descend. RMI Guide Mike King

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team Reaches Summit

June 20, 2018

Posted by: Andy Bond, Alan Davis, Bryce Foster, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons June 16 - 21, 2018 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond, Alan Davis, Bryce Foster and Jenny Konway reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Emmons Glacier route. Andy reported a beautiful day with low winds. They will return to Camp Schurman for a final night on the mountain. Congratulations to the Emmons Seminar team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Barry- you did it!!!! SO exciting!! You’re an inspiration to so many! -xK

Posted by: Kathryn McRitchie on 6/21/2018 at 8:31 am

Congratulations Noah! This is absolutely amazing. What an accomplishment! I’m inspired!

Posted by: Noah on 6/20/2018 at 1:35 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Summit

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Move to 7,800 and Set Up Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp Hopeful for Break in Weather

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Headed Home

Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Reid Summit!

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King & Team Went for a Walk Today

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team Reaches Summit

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