Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Bolivia: Frank & Team Prep for Climb

May 30, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 15,200'

It’s a few minutes after 8pm and the Bolivia climbing team members are already cuddled inside our respective sleeping bags, excited for tomorrow. Today was a good day. We awoke to a quick breakfast and broke down our tents as the sun crested the ridge to our east. Thirty minutes later, our duffels were loaded on donkeys and we moved camp uphill two hours to our high camp. This afternoon we hiked to the toe of the glacier and did some training on advanced techniques- cramponing on ice, short roping and the finer points of pitched climbing. Now we have the skill set we need to tackle our first climb, Pequeño Alpamayo, tomorrow. The weather looks good and with any luck we should be calling from the top by mid to late morning. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Mt. Rainier: Brent Okita Recaps Summit Day

May 30, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Gloria Roe, Ross Morgan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

This morning we awoke just before 2:00am hoping to take advantage of some favorable weather on the mountain. We were rewarded with an incredible morning. Calm winds and clear skies! A full moon and stars everywhere confirmed that we had made the right call to climb. Leaving just a little later than we would on a regular summit climb allowed us minimal exposure to the coldest part of the night, yet still get down before it got too darned hot out. We reached the summit just before 8:00 with no wind and the sun's rays beginning to warm us up. After an hour on top we started our descent, which our team rocked. We're all back at Muir now, relaxing in the sun or catching up on some sleep in the sleeping bags, taking a well deserved rest. But the day's not over yet. This crew is still psyched to hone their mountain skills, so later on we'll be learning about anchors, belaying and anything else they are interested in. This will get us ready for our day of crevasse rescue and ice climbing tomorrow. All for now, RMI Guides Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Gloria Roe, and Ross Morgan

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Enjoy a Rest Day at 14K Camp

May 30, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 1:50 pm PT Our team is taking another planned rest day today, the first multiple rest day stint of our trip. The weather at 14,200' right now is chilly with very light snow. This unsettled weather is forecasted to last into tomorrow before clearer weather moves in through the weekend. We are hopeful the weather will allow us to move to high camp tomorrow so that we can take advantage of a potentially good weather window (Fri/Sat/Sun) for a summit attempt. We're all doing well, and optimistic that our chance to tag the top is right around the corner. Until then, we'll be resting and getting stronger. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dave and Shane….. you guys are so close now. Great progress and great weather is seems.

May the Sun shine for you each day and the winds blow gentle.

Love,

Dad

Posted by: George Head on 5/31/2018 at 11:59 am

Dave and Shane…wow…almost there. I can’t believe you are almost at the summit. We can’t wait to hear ALL about this adventure. We hope you are all feeling well. Miss you to pieces. Have a great day!! Love, Mom and Ken

Posted by: Dean and Ken on 5/31/2018 at 7:01 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar Reaches Summit

May 30, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Ross Morgan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7:30 AM. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jordan Cargill chose to make their summit attempt today due to the nice weather. Brent reported no wind and a perfect day on the mountain. The team will return to Camp Muir and continue to their training until Friday when they will descend to Paradise. The top photos are from today's summit climb, the bottom two photos are from Tuesday's training above Camp Muir. Congratulations to the climbers!

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 14,000’ Camp

May 30, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 11:38 PM PT It was another pretty perfect morning on Denali, so we made hay. We started off a bit earlier with a smoked salmon and bagel breakfast, then loaded up most of our food and fuel, strapped on crampons for the first time, and started up Motorcycle Hill. The was a slight breeze to keep things cool, and a few moments of windy corner were cold enough to elicit brain freeze, but everything went incredibly smoothly. So smoothly that we decided to keep going all the way to Mike Walter and team's Camp at 14. They were nice enough to let us stash our load in their camp and keep an eye on it. We spent an hour visiting with friends and enjoying the new scene before we had back for our own Camp at 11. With our stuff up high, we're ready to move up at the next opportunity! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Hey Rich

Wow! Amazing photos! Wishing you all great weather and good times! Kids send their love!

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:18 pm

The pictures look amazing, thanks for posting them! Congrats on your successes so far and best of luck to the top!! #teamdietz

Posted by: Susan Dietz on 5/31/2018 at 12:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Camp at 9,800’

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,800'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 9:08 pm PT We had our first overcast day today and it was a nice break from the intense sunshine. Temperatures were much cooler under the cloud cover and that made the climbing more pleasant for us all. After an early dinner we all kicked back in the cook tent and enjoyed movie night. Tonight's feature was "The brothers grimsby". Back to climbing in the morning when we head to Camp at 11,200 ft. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Old Guard.

Posted by: Jason taormino on 5/30/2018 at 6:37 pm

Tyler - Family is excited to track your adventure/progress -looks like great weather & hope it continues for you & your team . The pics are amazing & the commentary gives us a tiny window into your Denali experience !!
Love -Dadio

Posted by: Kim Shearburn on 5/30/2018 at 3:46 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Make Summit Attempt, Try Out New Skills

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:28 PM PT Today we awoke to some of the first stormy weather of the trip. After sleeping in a little and taking the time to make a delicious pancake and bacon breakfast we roped up and spent the afternoon climbing to Furien Col taking advantage of a good weather window. The climb was steep and involved. We used many of the climbing and anchoring techniques that we've learned throughout the week. It was fun to put our skills to use and get up to a high point. Unfortunately, no views for us because the weather rolled in and we were inside a pingpong ball. We descended from the col and are taking time to rest in our tents. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Arrive at Base Camp

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 14,700'

Our beach vacation on Isla del Sol came to an end today as we made our way into the Bolivian Andes to begin the mountain portion of the trip. The first of our three peaks is called Pequeno Alpamayo, located next to Condoriri. The views were amazing as we walked to our Base Camp at 14,700’, located at the base of the valley surrounded by big glaciated peaks, including Huayna Potosi (our 2nd peak on the trip). We are all enjoying the luxuries of amazing home cooked meals including having lunch today at Gregorio’s house (a local farmer) on the way to base camp. Tomorrow we’ll move camp and do some training on a glacier before our first summit attempt. RMI Guides Eric Frank & Andy Bond

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Arrive in Talkeetna, Organize Gear

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:27 PM PT Hello from the RMI Denali Expedition, Team Jones! Last evening we all met in Anchorage and drove up to Talkeetna early enough to enjoy our first dinner in town and begin to get to know one another. Today, we started with an early breakfast knowing we had a lot of preparations to do in hopes of flying onto the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow. We spent the day inspecting our gear, organizing our packs and reviewing some mountain skills like setting up our tents and how to rig our sleds we will be towing the beginning of our expedition. It’s been a busy day but the group has been managing the time well and we are ready to go! Thanks for reading our first blog and we look forward to sharing our adventure as we move along the next couple weeks! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Nick(olas) and Team!!

Girls and I will be following along this latest adventure, Nicholas. We love you! Be safe. Blow Kenna a kiss from us, when you reach the summit!

Posted by: Elisa Moss on 5/31/2018 at 6:59 am

JEALOUS
Yes you guys rock. I wish I could have joined you. Ahh alas if you need to warm up…. join me in Fiji sailing.
Be unstoppable to the summit. Sorry Alden I’m sure you get a lot of that.

Posted by: Saxby on 5/30/2018 at 5:06 pm

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Place Cache and Take Rest Day

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:01 PM PT Today is a rest day for our team after good long day yesterday establishing a cache at 17,200 ft. We woke early yesterday to a clear but bitterly cold morning (~ -20F), ate breakfast, packed our packs and launched. We were the first team to leave camp and the only team to continue all the way to High Camp (17,200') to establish our cache. The weather and climbing conditions were excellent, and the views were unmatched. Now we're resting, acclimating, and getting stronger in preparation for our summit bid. The weather forecast looks promising and we will likely move to High Camp in the next day or two. We will keep you posted with the latest. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

OMG you are really getting up there. Luckily beautiful weather! Stay safe, and stay warm…..

Posted by: Marilyn Riede on 5/30/2018 at 9:42 am

What amazing luck with the weather and views! Thank you for this great update and we are happy to hear everyone is doing well! Fingers are crossed for continued great weather and a safe summit climb! Tom M, Myrna and Sheila are enjoying the updates! Be safe and we are sending big hugs!
Susan
Larkspur, CA

Posted by: Susan on 5/30/2018 at 7:21 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Bolivia: Frank & Team Prep for Climb

Mt. Rainier: Brent Okita Recaps Summit Day

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Enjoy a Rest Day at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar Reaches Summit

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Camp at 9,800’

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Make Summit Attempt, Try Out New Skills

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Arrive at Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Arrive in Talkeetna, Organize Gear

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Place Cache and Take Rest Day

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