Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Friday, June 1, 2018 - 12:00 AM PT
Basically today could be summed up as everything went exactly as planned. It was incredibly calm this morning with a thin cloud hanging across the Polo Field, that suggested things would get warm. We rocked out of camp, and just kept rolling until we walked into
14,000' Camp around 5.30 to see our friends on Mike Walter's team. We set up camp nearby, a compound of sorts, and now we're diving into sleeping bags, hurried there by the chill air of 14,000' and the sudden departure of the sun behind a ridge. Tomorrow we plan to rest.
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team
On The Map
Today's mixed bag of weather didn't dampen anyone's enthusiasm to train in and around the crevasses near
Camp Muir. If anything, we were all smug in the knowledge that we took advantage of fantastic weather when we could to summit and would deal with less than ideal weather for our training.
Even the blisters and sore feet of the climb seemed to go away with our great night of sleep.
I was impressed with how the group really learned the skills to effect a rescue of a partner from a crevasse, then jumped at the chance to get back in the hole to ice climb out. Most even got in seconds on the ice climbs.
Our evening talk in the bunkhouse covered everything from altitude illness, mountain medicine, expedition life,
Denali and
Everest to things better left unmentioned here. I apologize in advance to all of you if your partners on this seminar come home with ambitions to climb more and bigger mountains in the future.
Tomorrow, sadly, is our last day. However, a morning of training will be followed by excitement to get down off the mountain, have a beer and burger and get back to our loved ones and the comforts of home.
It's been a great week and we hope to be able to climb together again sometime soon.
Au revoir from Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
May 31, 2018 - 10:32 pm PT
We just finished up out last dinner (weather permitting) on the glacier. Today we loaded gear on our backs and sleds and moved to basecamp where our group decided to set up tents then take an evening glacier hike to the base of the North Face of Mount Hunter to say farewell to the
Alaska Range. We all feel grateful for the time to learn and explore here. I know for a fact many of our team will be back soon to climb the
Great One.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
May 31, 2018 - 7:26 pm PT
Another beautiful day on
Denali, which we started by singing happy birthday to Chip and we finished by making a no bake birthday cheesecake (we can only do so much at 11,200ft). Along with the birthday festivities, we are really enjoying this stretch of nice days as we move higher on the mountain. Today as we carried a big load of supplies to our cache spot at 13,500ft, we all felt the previous four days of hard work. Everyone climbed in good style but it was clear that it is time for a rest day, tomorrow we sleep in, hang out at camp and catch up on our reading and movies.
Best wishes from Denali,
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
On The Map
May 31, 2018 - 5:28 pm PT
Less than twelve hours after arriving at Kahiltna Base Camp, we woke early, ready for the first leg of our ascent. After quickly breaking down camp and eating an even quicker breakfast, we loaded the last of our gear into our already over burdened expedition sleds and began the walk down heart break hill towards the vastness of the Kahiltna Glacier. The morning was cold and crisp. Perfect conditions for the route to our camp at 7,800 feet. Snowshoes would not be necessary today as the snow was firm and smooth. The skies were clear with only minimal clouds capping the summit of Mount Foraker to the west and a bit of haze blocking our view of
Denali to the north. Our group of hopeful climbers looked like a freight train as our three rope teams chugged along with our sleds in tow towards our objective for the day, moving one step closer to the slopes of the West Buttress. After several hours of hard walking, we arrived in camp at the base of Ski Hill and set up our temporary homes for the next few days. Today was easy compared to what lies ahead, but our group of climbers looks strong and ready for the challenge.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Thursday, May 31, 2018 - 1:11 PM PT
We woke early this morning and fired up the stoves, intent on moving to high camp today. But as the morning progressed, lenticular clouds formed over the Alaska Range, clouds increased, and we could see winds coming off of the
West Buttress above us . With a good weather forecast into next week, we decided that we'd sit this one out and try again tomorrow. We're sitting in great shape and lined up for the upcoming goo weather window. And spending another night at 14,000' Camp will make our team stronger for our bid up high.
Hopefully our next dispatch will come from High Camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
RMI Guide Andy Bond and Team just called from the summit of
Pequeño Alpamayo a 5370 m peak in the Condoriri Group. Andy reported great climbing conditions and beautiful weather. The team climbed strong, and will be starting their descent shorty.
Congratulations Team!
Update: 5:19 pm PT
Hey just letting you know we’re back at camp safe and sound... well fed and ready for some sleep. Long day on a challenging route but everyone is doing great! We’ll update tomorrow with an actual blog post
RMI Guides Eric Frank and Andy Bond
Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT
After yesterday's big effort, it took some snow and evidence of wind at
Windy Corner to decide to take a full chill day at our 11,000' Camp today. Food, movies, books, and naps filled the time, and left little room for anything else. We are feeling good about a move to 14,000 ft Camp tomorrow, and after today, everyone is excited for a change in scenery.
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team
On The Map
Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 11:40 PM PT
Today we got a nice breakfast in town and headed over to the hanger for a final bit of packing. The weather turned out to be a bit fickle so we started some training to pass the time and our fingers were crossed for improving weather. We went to our lunch break and just when the rain started in town the mountains opened and we got the word we would try to fly on the glacier. We’re finally here at
Base Camp and will make our first move early in the morning toward 7,800 camp at the base of Ski Hill. We enjoyed our first dinner as the skies were clearing and caught a glimpse of Denali in the distance!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott
On The Map
After a lazy morning of hiding in tents or the cook tent from the snow and wind we had brunch. It was a two hot drink kind of morning. But then the temps warmed and the clouds lightened and we set up a ropes course on the glacier. We used ascenders to climb ropes, rappels to descend, and tethers to traverse. After some avalanche beacon searching drills, we hunkered down for some lunch and an avalanche formation lecture. All in all, a lot of practice clipping carabiners and using gear. This group has taken everything in stride and keeps impressing us with their focus and energy. We also have been enjoying the laughter that seems to roll out of the kitchen tent all evening. Tomorrow we'll rig sleds and head back to
Kahiltna Basecamp and then into a hot shower way too soon after that. Whether we're climbing, learning, or hanging out, this group has been a true pleasure to be with for the past eight days.
RMI Guides Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, and Alex Halliday
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Happy Birthday Henry Huntington! You make it harder and harder for me to wish you a happy birthday, but as you learned long ago, I will track you to the ends of the Earth (and pay $6.00/min—which is $15.75 today) just to wish you a happy birthday! (OK, it was yesterday - but there is the surprise!)—Michael
Posted by: Michael Goldstein on 6/3/2018 at 6:31 pm
Happy birthday Henry. Best wishes for a smooth climb.
Posted by: Matthew burek on 6/2/2018 at 12:26 pm
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