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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Check and Weigh Gear, Ready to Fly to Kahiltna Glacier

RMI’s Denali climbing season is kicking off. Out team spent yesterday in Talkeetna packing and prepping for our expedition. Spreading our gear out in one of K2 Aviation’s hangars, we went through all of our clothing, food, and climbing equipment to fine-tune everything and be sure our checklists were complete. Everything was weighed and labeled for the airplanes. This morning we’ll touch base with K2 to see what the flying conditions are like. Our hope is to fly in to Kahiltna Basecamp today. Located on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, this glacier runway will be our approach to the West Buttress of Denali.

Our team looks well prepared, and everyone is eager to embark on this multi-week expedition. We’ll keep you up to date along the way as we slowly progress higher on Denali’s slopes. I’ll be in touch with flying conditions and our status.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Sending the best vibes your way!

Posted by: Abby P on 5/12/2022 at 6:40 am

Stay safe and have fun !!!

Posted by: Don West on 5/11/2022 at 9:42 pm


Ruth Glacier Seminar: Parrinello & Team Fly into the Alaska Range

Tuesday, May 10, 2022 - 9:00 pm PT

Greetings from the Ruth Gorge!

This morning we woke to beautiful weather and knew our time had come to fly into the Alaska range. After we landed on the glacier at the Sheldon mountain house we packed, roped up and headed down into the Ruth gorge. We walked down the valley glacier towards camp with endless granite walls on either side. We set our base camp for the trip and enjoyed splendid views with dinner. Getting some well earned rest tonight!

RMI Guide Avery Parrinello

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Ruth Glacier Seminar: Parrinello & Team Train in Talkeetna Waiting for Weather

We spent the day on the airstrip with high hopes of flying out in the afternoon. While waiting we took advantage of the free time to start practicing technical skills. After brushing up on knots and anchors we learned how to ascend a rope with the anticipation of ascending out of a crevasse on the Ruth Glacier. Unfortunately the weather never broke today. However, with the pilots optimistic about tomorrow morning, we loaded up all our gear on a plane hoping to fly out first thing tomorrow!

RMI Guide Avery Parrinello

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Mt. Baker: Summit And Ski Team Enjoy Turns Despite the Weather

The Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent team led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer wrapped up their time on Mt. Baker today. The team took advantage of short periods of sun breaks to ski around Sandy Camp. Low clouds, snow, and poor visibility prevented the team from ascending too far out of camp. Pete reports great skiing and a happy team, making the most of their time on the mountain.

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Four Day Climb: Frank, Swingle & Team Ascend to Ingraham Flats

The Four Day Climb May 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Grayson Swingle ascended to Camp Muir yesterday. The team left from Camp Muir this morning and ascended to Ingraham Flats.  More new snow and avalanche danger made this their high point but they did enjoy some blue skies and sunshine.   The team left Camp Muir on their descent to Paradise.  We will look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

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Go MBK!!!

Posted by: ELLIS RICHMAN on 5/10/2022 at 5:54 am


Ruth Glacier Seminar: Parrinello, Delaney and Team Check in from Talkeetna

Hello everyone and welcome to the first blog post from the best trip RMI offers, the Ruth Glacier Seminar!

Yesterday the team flew into Anchorage accompanied by beautiful skies and amazing views of five different mountain ranges! After gathering up at the airport we hopped in the shuttle and drove to Talkeetna, got some food and called it an early night since we were all travel weary. 

Today was spent organizing and double checking all our gear so that the next nine days in the Great Gorge would go as smoothly as possible. What didn't go smoothly was the weather, we were informed midday that there was a persistent cloud layer down low on the Ruth Glacier. Our chance of flying in was unlikely and as late afternoon turned to evening, we sadly had to postpone our flying in. We are hoping to wake up tomorrow with better weather and fly on to the glacier early in the morning! 

Cheers, 

RMI Guides Jack Delaney, Avery Parinello and the team.

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Mt. Rainier: Stormy Weather Keeps Five Day Climb at Camp Muir

 RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Dustin Wittmier and the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb teams endured a steady and consistent spring storm at Camp Muir. Windy conditions prevented the teams fom ascending above Camp Muir but will make for epic stories of traveling to the outhouse while at camp. The teams will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sorry to hear that, looks like last three expeditions able to go up Muir Camp only due to weather.
Is May is good month to go (just wondering)?

Posted by: Umesh Patel on 5/8/2022 at 5:01 pm

Sorry to hear the May 6th team got turned around due to weather….

I am ready to tackle Rainier on August 3 - 6…. I am hoping the weather is not a factor

I would LOVE to hear of your experiences and recommendations so I can learn more

Posted by: Jeff Duqutte on 5/7/2022 at 9:36 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Calls Muir Their High Point

Early season weather kept the Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb from ascending above Camp Muir. The teams, led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Andy Bond reported windy and snowy conditions at Camp Muir. The climbers will make their descent to Paradise this morning and will be back in Ashford later day.

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So good to meet you all and thanks to Andy and the gang for a fantastic time on the mountain. I’ll see you guys again in August for an hopefully successful summit bid.

The closed Longmire Gate still haunts my dreams.

Posted by: Xavier on 5/3/2022 at 7:08 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Descending from Camp Muir

The Five Day Climb April 26 - 30 led by RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and James Bealer completed their Mountaineering School on April 27 and made the ascent to Camp Muir on April 28.  The teams spent the last two nights at 10,080' Camp Muir.  Climbers were able to ascend to Ingraham Flats but due to adverse weather conditions were unable to climb any higher. Today the team is descending from Camp Muir to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

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Bummer guys!  Sorry about the weather!  It’s all about the journey and not the destination though!  I hope you learned a lot, met some cool people, and are excited for the next one.

Posted by: Constantine V on 5/1/2022 at 4:16 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five-Day climb Enjoys Sunrise on Ingraham Flats

RMI Guides Grayson Swingle and Ben Liken reported the Five-Day climbing teams enjoyed a beautiful sunrise this morning. The team spent two nights at Camp Muir and enjoyed lots of hands-on training and practice to enhance their glacier travel skills all while ascending to Camp Muir in wonderful spring conditions. The team will descend to Basecamp and celebrate their accomplishments before everyone begins their next adventure home.

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