Entries from Alaska

The Team is Packed and Ready for the Flight in!

Welll we did it. We packed. We’re ready….. we hope. 

Today is quite the bear of a day. What starts as a nice leisurely breakfast at the Swiss Alaska quickly turns into a packing, sorting, repacking, resorting conundrum. We have to pack for a 3 week trip with all of our food, gear, and shelters for the trip. It’s a task. BUT, we did it in style. 

The team worked through the maze of duffels, carabiners, and a million ziplocks to finally weigh in and separate our gear for the flight tomorrow. We’ll be eating up and soaking in the last bit  of creature comforts that Talkeetna has to offer. We’re excited to let the gun go off and the trip to officially start. Once we’re on the mountain, the jitters fade and the fun begins. Wish us luck and be sure to look for your climbers name at the bottom of these dispatches. We’ll pass this blog around the team so that you can hear about the journey from your loved ones. 

Be on the lookout and talk to you all following along from Kahiltna Basecamp! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

Monday, June 9, 2025 - 10:21 pm PT

Today was a long day. Around midnight the snow finally stopped and the skies begun to clear. This morning we woke up to lingering clouds, but a few hints of sunshine and finally, a day without snow. After a quick breakfast and hot drinks, we began to shovel out our camp, that had taken a real beating over the last few days of really heavy snowfall. Once we shoveled our camp, we began to pack up the gear we needed for 14,000' Camp, and gather the gear we were going to leave at 11,000' Camp until we came back through. This included snowshoes, one trekking pole, and for everyone besides the guides - the dreaded sleds. We also left behind trash, and food we realized a week in we might not eat in the remaining two weeks. Once our cache was buried and left, we strapped on our crampons and began the slow trek up Motorcycle Hill. It was no easy feat, the trail breaking was close to waist deep in places. We continued our way up Squirrel Hill, across the Polo Fields, and around Windy Corner - which was less windy than a few days ago. And finally made it to the promised land, 14,000' Camp. Greeted by friends and sunshine, it was nice to finally make it to our launching point for the rest of the mountain. We quickly built camp, and eventually enjoyed a late dinner of ramen. The team did great, everyone pushed themselves, and showed up.

Tomorrow we will sleep in and take a well deserved rest day at our new camp.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 11:01 pm PT

It started snowing yesterday afternoon while we were doing our carry, and it seems it hasn't stopped since. Heavy snowfall has made our entire world a snow globe. We woke up to the sound of snowfall on the tent, a signal to us that today would be another weather day here at 11,000' Camp. After our big effort yesterday, a little bit of a mellow morning was welcomed. So after a later alarm we all gathered in the cook tent for some toasted bagels, cream cheese and bacon. The day continued on with heavy snowfall covering every past sign of other teams or climbers. People would cycle out every hour to brush or shovel off the tents and by the next hour, the snow had just refilled. Wading from one camp to another was a waist deep adventure. After hours of keeping the camp unburied we had yet again, some burritos - and chatted about our plan for tomorrow. The big move. We are all excited about the prospect of a new camp, flat tent platforms, and one step closer to the summit. The weather looks a bit more promising so we are going to bed optimistic.

One more thing - happy birthday to Brandon's Mom!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 1:15 pm PT

6/7/25 - Dustin, Lacie, and Will's Team

Another day well spent in the most awe inspring, humbling terrain I've ever seen. Our team is in the groove and we are making moves in our bid to climb as high as this mountain will allow. Our goal today-- climb to 13,500' from 11 Camp to cache food and supplies for later in our expedition. After debating way too long about what snacks to keep in camp and what to cache (pro tip... do your packing the night before so you aren't the slow poke in the morning like me) we set out for the climb donning our technical gear and crampons up Motorcycle Hill towards our cache objective just past Windy Corner. While the change to crampons from snowshoes was a welcome one, it means we are entering more consequential terrain and great care must go into each and every step. Today we got our first taste of the sharp side of the mountain. While the weather started out nice we soon found out where Windy Corner gets it's name from. As we navigated the labyrinth of crevasses and "holes" we were met with strong winds, blowing snow, and the most raw conditions mother nature has thrown at us yet. Though brutal at times we achieved our objective and morale is high. I won't name names but one of us even brought our snacks up and back down again just to get a little more workout in! This place is unforgiving but we are all learning and growing together as a team. Tomorrow we will enjoy a well deserved rest day before continuing our journey. Oh, and.... HI MUM, LOVE YOU!

RMI Climber Ben

Sunday, June 8, 2025 - 9:55 am PT

Holy cow the team crushed it today. Woke up to lightly cloudy skies, but visibility.  We threw any remaining items to be cached into our packs, ate a quick breakfast of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and just as the sun was hitting camp we began walking up Motorcycle Hill. After a quick break on top of Motorcycle Hill (where the guides applied glitter to celebrate my birthday), we made our way up the steep Squirrel Hill, and across the Polo Fields toward the base of Windy Corner. As we made our way across the Polo Field the snow lightly began to fall and winds were picking up. As we climbed towards Windy Corner, winds were gusting and visibility was decreasing. Teams made a strong push around Windy Corner, through the broke part of the glacier, past 13,500' and all the way to 14 Camp.

At 14,000' Camp we took a nice long break, dug a cache hole, threw on more layers to weather the storm and left all our gear to return to in a few days. Layers on, we made our way back now in moderate snowfall, strong winds, and poor visibility. The team put their head down and made it back to camp in good time. After the long, and impressive day we all shared some Jambalaya and cosmic brownies with candles. It was a great day, and set our team up well to move to 14,000' Camp when weather allows.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:16 pm PT

Day 7

Today was a great day, balanced with a hike and refreshers on crampon use at our 11,000-foot home. The day started cold, but we were warmed with a southern classic of biscuits and gravy. In the morning, we also had a final chance to admire Will's elegant snow columns, leading the way to the latrine. Sadly, the mountain claimed them while we were out. 

After breakfast, we took a quick trip down and back up 1,000 feet in elevation to retrieve our cache. After the final uphill in snowshoes, we happily buried them in the ground, putting them to use as tent anchors. Above this point, we're in crampons, so Lacie gave us a quick course on their use.

After class, some much needed sun gave us a chance to relax, as well as literally refill our batteries. At dinner, we found that Will had transformed his toilet columns into an enormous kitchen wall to block the weather.

We went to sleep hopeful about the upper mountain, with plans to cache at 14k before some rough weather this Sunday.

-- Charles "Carl" Stephens

Dustin, Lacie & Will's team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:37 PM PT

We could hear it before we could see it, the dreaded wind. It woke us this morning, before we saw it moving snow all across the mountain. We drank some coffee, and watched to see if the winds would die down - but they stayed elevated. Drifting snow all around camp. By 10:00 am it became obvious it was going to be a weather day here at 11 Camp for our team. We had another egg and hashbrown scramble and then spent a few hours out of the wind in our tents. By the mid-afternoon, we layered up and reviewed some of the skills that will make the next day of climbing go smoothly - from running belays, to cramponing techniques, it was nice to get a refresher. After sharpening our skills we rolled into another dinner of mac and cheese and loaded our packs with the group loads for tomorrow. Though there's a little snow in the forecast, winds look more favorable for carrying.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 6:37pm PT

After three weeks in the mountain we flew from Kahiltna Base Camp this morning. While warming our hands with a final cup of coffee at base camp, we got the message that we had all been waiting for.  K2 had launched their planes.  Thirty minutes later, the distinctive red and white Otters roared over and landed in the snowy white landscape.

While weather kept us from standing on top this time around, we had a resoundingly successful trip. I cannot thank our climbers and my fellow guides enough for all of their work, effort, laughs, determination, and patience during this trip. Until next time,

RMI Guide Seth Burns

Friday, June 6, 2025 - 10:45 am PT

Team Dustin/Lacie/Will rose early to low winds, partly sunny skies, & a delightful breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, bacon, & coffee. We broke camp and began our move to Camp 2 at 11,000 feet. The early part of the climb was hot with bright sun, to which one of our Lone Star State participants proclaimed “Welcome to Texas!” The weather gradually turned cloudy with snow which seems to be our mantra but we made good time up the steep terrain. We set up camp and our guides prepared yet another great dinner. The hot sauce selection is truly five stars. The team crashed in anticipation of a full day tomorrow back-carrying yesterday’s cache and training.

--Climber Robert 

PS Happy first birthday as a mom to Melissa!

Thursday, June 5, 2025 - 10:31 pm PT

Another successful day! We slept in a little bit, and had a filling breakfast of smoked salmon, cream cheese and bagels and then rigged our empty sleds and duffles to make our way downhill to our cache. After about 30 minutes of walking downhill in light snowfall, we made it upon our cache site. We made quick work of digging up all of our group and personal food, restocked our sleds and packs and turned around to make our way back uphill. After about two hours of hard work, we made our way back into camp. The rest of the afternoon was spent swapping anchors, and prepping to carry to 13,500' tomorrow. The day was wrapped up with another crowd favorite, burritos and beats by Hannah. Hoping for good weather for our long carry day tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion