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RMI Expeditions Blog


Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter & Team Back to Quito after Successful Cotopaxi Summit

Well, we earned this one. We woke up early, at 10:30pm, to eat 'breakfast' and don our climbing clothes. At first it was warm and calm at the hut; soon it was foggy with light rain. We weren't sure what to expect. The first hour was dry and very warm. The last hour to the summit was anything but. On our ascent of Cotopaxi, we climbed through various intensities of rain, freezing rain, sleet, and snow. The winds picked up in third hour of our climb, and were persistently strong and gusty, strong enough to make us work even harder to maintain our balance. Our climbers were as persistent as the winds though, and eight hours after starting out we were standing on the summit of Cotopaxi (19,347')! The summit celebrations were short-lived because of the weather. After a tiring decent, we were all back at the parking lot, safe and sound, twelve hours round trip. For the bulk of the climb we were all covered in rime ice; our ropes looked like frozen fire hoses, and we were glad to have helmets on when a flapping jacket hood would clock you from behind. We gave up any semblance of a view from the summit for the opportunity to test our merit in full alpine conditions. And we came away with no more than a few blisters and some tired climbers. I'm proud of our Ecuador Volcanoes team for climbing hard all day today...we were the only team on the mountain today, and we even got a summit! Now we're en route to Quito, anticipating hot showers and well-deserved cervesas (with maybe a nap or three thrown in there) before meeting for a celebration dinner tonight. Great job team! RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So proud of you Matt!! Sounds like a week of accomplishments that pushed you all!! Enjoy a hot shower, get some rest & will see you at airport Friday night!! Love you & Congrats to all of you!!
Mom & Dad

Posted by: Jodi on 6/26/2014 at 5:03 pm

Way to go Shobita, cannot wait to hear more from you

Posted by: Usha on 6/26/2014 at 5:01 pm


McKinley: Hahn & Team Make Final Preparations

June 25, 2014 - 11:35pm PT A rainy and grey morning in Talkeetna didn't stop our team from a seven o'clock breakfast meeting at Talkeetna's great Roadhouse. We were primed and ready for our important orientation at the Talkeetna Ranger Station at 8:30. Our climbers were honored to have Roger Robinson himself give the presentation. Roger has been climbing Denali and rescuing Denali climbers for close to four decades now. Then it was out to the K2 Aviation hangar where we spread out our gear and got down to the nuts and bolts of figuring out exactly what to bring on the climb and what to leave behind. It took much of the afternoon to sort gear and to get it all weighed, inventoried and ready for flying. So it became an "indoors" day, which was just fine. Rain kept falling and there was precious little flying going on out at the normally bustling Talkeetna Airport. The team got together finally for what we hope will be our last dinner in town for some time. It was a fine feast, but we'd just as soon be on climbing rations when supper time rolls around tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good luck to all for a fabulous and safe climb. Only 3,994,000,000,000 nanometers to the top!

Posted by: Geoff Clark on 6/27/2014 at 9:02 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Send Poetry from 11,000’ Camp

June 25, 2014 - 10:42pm PT Here I sit in my tent Wondering where the day went A rest day at eleven camp for the team With people in and out of their dreams Mike Haugen and troupe passed through Delivering a pee bottle to Adam -- woohoo! For breakfast we had chocolate and pb pancakes (booya!) While we watched the snow flakes. For now the wind is pretty strong, and hopefully we won't have to shovel all night long. RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann and Andy Hildebrand
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tell Dave Schick he is drinking too much water… :)

Hope the weather cooperates for a nice summit bid.

Best,
Jack

Posted by: Jack on 6/27/2014 at 9:38 am

Hope all is going well and the Team makes the camp today!

Love to my sis!  And all my best to the team!

Posted by: Carolyn on 6/27/2014 at 8:52 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Report from 17,000’ Camp

June 28, 2014 - 10:27pm Hey, it's Billy calling in from 17 Camp on Denali. Today was not summit day for us. We woke up to some inclement weather that's been steadily working all day with winds gusting near 70 miles an hour or so. We build up pretty solid, fortified camp and everyone's sitting tight and holding on. Winds from the storm are supposed to give way to nicer weather in the next couple of days so we're just sitting tight with our fingers crossed. We'll call and check in tomorrow, to let you know if we got up there. That's all for now.


Billy Nugent checking in from 17,200' Camp on Denali

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric: 70mph winds…OUCH…flapping tent syndrome….use the ear bud skull cap combo to keep from going insane! Trust tomorrow things calm down. U.P.

Posted by: Paul on 6/26/2014 at 4:03 pm

Been checking the blog nonstop to see if you guys had made any progress! Not to worry, keeping our fingers crossed that the weather clears up and you will be able to make a successful summit bid! Keep up the great work! Miss you Dad and Michael! xoxo

For any of you soccer fans up there: the Men’s US soccer team advanced to the knockout round about an hour ago (despite a loss to Germany). #MURICA

Posted by: Katie Freedman on 6/26/2014 at 11:32 am


Mt. Rainier: June 26th Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb of Mt. Rainier led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Mike Soucy stood on top of Columbia Crest this morning. JJ reported that the teams were in and out of a cloud cap all morning but enjoyed light winds and pleasant conditions on the summit. The teams will descend to Camp Muir where they will pack up and refuel before making their way to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed a light breeze while on the summit. The team will descend back to high camp for the night and will return to Ashford tomorrow. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations everyone.  Great reward for all
the training and hard work.  So proud of you, Paul!!
A special thank you to the guides.

Posted by: Vicki on 6/26/2014 at 9:59 pm

WAY TO GO JIM AND KATHERINE !!!!!  Congratulations to all.  Truly an experience.  Love you :)

Posted by: Mary Kruse on 6/26/2014 at 5:48 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Summit Cotopaxi

Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:07 AM PT The Ecuador team is back at Cotopaxi's high camp. All is well. Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 7:01 AM PT RMI Guide Mike Walter checked in this morning from the summit of Cotopaxi! We look forward to hearing from Mike again once the team is safely off of the mountain. Congratulations team!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Shobita and to all the members of your team!!  Not only did you summit, but you did it in some very brutal conditions. Great job.  I guess now you’ll enjoy some great food.
Randy

Posted by: Randy Shetter on 6/26/2014 at 3:54 pm

Congratulations! Looks beautiful!

Posted by: Magda on 6/26/2014 at 10:21 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: Walter and Team Ready for Cotopaxi Summit Bid

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team are checking in with the RMI office as they prepare for their summit bid on Cotopaxi: June 25, 2014 5:38am PT We enjoyed a relaxing rest day at the Hacienda Chilcabamba. Today we will head into Cotopaxi National Park and prepare for our summit bid. We'll be in touch! June 28, 2014 - 3:01pm PT We we're treated to good views of Cotopaxi and five condors as we drove into the National Park. We are at the hut now, going for the summit tonight.We'll be in touch soon! Stay Tuned!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to hear you’re all well and rested. Sending love and support! Go team go! One foot in front of the other all the way to the top! Can’t wait for the updates!

Posted by: Lizzie on 6/25/2014 at 4:47 pm

Glad to hear from you! I was getting worried.

Posted by: Kris on 6/25/2014 at 4:34 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

RMI Guide Peter Whittaker along with Ed Viesturs led a team of eight climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Peter reported light wind, great climbing conditions and a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier. All eight climbers in the party reached the summit. The Five Day Summit Climb led by Solveig Waterfall also topped out this morning with 100% of her team on the summit as well. Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before descending down to Paradise and then to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job Matt; I am so happy for you!  It looks like you had perfect conditions too.  I look forward to hearing about it when you get back.

Posted by: John Boyce on 6/26/2014 at 7:54 am

Well done Dave,Mike and team! Thanks Ed and Peter for keeping them safe:)

Posted by: Nat Turner on 6/26/2014 at 3:20 am


Mt. McKinley: Dave Hahn & Team Arrive in Alaska

June 25, 2014 - 12:26 am PT And so it begins... The last RMI Denali team of 2014 took shape today in the Anchorage airport. We assembled, seven climbers and four guides from around the world lugging about 23 or 24 giant duffel bags of cold weather gear. The team took a ride with Denali Overland, our shuttle service to Talkeetna. The three hour trip was broken by a stop for provisions in Wasilla, but then we powered on up the Parks highway to our Talkeetna turnoff. We had pretty good views of the Chugach Range as we left Anchorage but the Alaska Range stayed mostly hidden under cloud. There were some scattered rain showers to see, and a Bald Eagle or two, but no moose this time. We were in Talkeetna by 8:30 PM and getting settled into the comfortable Talkeetna Motel not much later. The big work of preparing to fly onto Denali begins in the morning. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

It’s going to be an incredible journey for all of you!  Sending tons of positive energy, love, peace and light your way! :)

Posted by: Ivonne Mosquera-Schmidt on 6/26/2014 at 10:12 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to High Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

June 24, 2014 – 7:51 pm PT Hey it’s Billy and team calling in from High Camp here at over 17,000’ on Denali. Our crew moved up today from the 14,000' Camp. We enjoyed a nice walk and good temps up on the West Buttress, made our way up the ridge line in and out of the clouds all day. And as we were building camp at 17,000’ the clouds parted. We are enjoying blue skies and relatively calm winds. If it looks anything like this tomorrow morning we are going to try and take a crack at the summit. So, wish us luck and we will check in tomorrow, go or no go. Alright, that is all for now. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Bruce and Michael. Good luck on your final ascent to the summit. I hope you have great weather for the vista at the top. Wave those Duke flags once again, and take plenty of pics! JBF/Mom

Posted by: Joyce Freedman on 6/25/2014 at 8:58 pm

Hey Bruce, Michael and team,
Sending you well wishes for a successful climb to the top!  You are ready so go own it.
Kathy

Posted by: kathy on 6/25/2014 at 7:53 pm

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