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RMI Expeditions Blog

RMI Guides Learn Valuable Instruction in the AIARE Level 1 Instructor Course

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Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

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RMI Guides Lindsay Mann and Pete Van Deventer recently met up in Frisco, Colorado, for the AIARE Level I Avalanche Instructor Training Course. AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) is the main course provider for avalanche courses and training in the United States. For three days Lindsay and Pete along with 16 other future instructors discussed current avalanche knowledge, curriculum material, and teaching techniques. Classroom time was balanced by field sessions, ski touring the very accessible terrain around Vail Pass. While the snowpack so far this year is relatively uninteresting from an avalanche perspective, the opportunity to trade ideas with 16 other peers and watch each other in the field was a great experience for both Lindsay and Pete. Many thanks to First Ascent and RMI for providing a Guide Grant to aid Lindsay and Pete in moving into an avalanche education instructor role. Look for Pete and Lindsay ski touring around the Aspen, Colorado, area when they are not guiding trips on Rainier, Alaska, and beyond for RMI.
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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Arrives in Mendoza

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

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The entire team arrived safely in Mendoza with all our gear (almost). One delayed bag should be arriving tomorrow in Mendoza. It is after midnight here and we just returned to the hotel after our first team dinner. We had a great meal enjoying the local flavors of Malbec and of course some Argentinian beef. We were busy all day with everyone's arrival and our first team meeting. We are now just finishing the day. Everyone is excited to start the trip and is looking forward to get closer to the big mountain. Cheers Gabi, Pete and Gilbert
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SIR WALTER GLOVER: Great weather forecast for the climb! Godspeed and have fun! Dan & Deb Meno

Posted by: Dan Meno on 1/11/2012 at 10:51 am

bryan!!! i am sooo happy to be able to hear your voice!!! hang in there!! you are my superman!! i love you.. prayers and wishes from everyone here….good luck!!!!!

Posted by: wiyanna on 1/11/2012 at 10:45 am

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Lou Whittaker Interview

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Categories: Guide News

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RMI Founder Lou Whittaker was interviewed last month by the Magic Valley Newspaper in Twin Falls, ID. Lou took some time off from skiing in Sun Valley to sit down and talk about his lifetime of climbing. Check out the article: Famous Mountain Climber Lou Whittaker Talks about His Highest Climbs.
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Special Tribute to Nawang Gombu Sherpa

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Categories: Guide News

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Special Tribute to Nawang Gombu Sherpa
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I had the previlage of climing with Gombu in 1978
on Mt.McKinley along with Phil Ersler with the RMI
team. I spent several nights in the same tent with
him listening to him tell stories about his Everest
climbs, what an adventure to have meet him. Saw him
over 20years later on the way to the summit of Mt. Rainer and he reconized me!

Posted by: Greg H. Craft on 5/25/2012 at 3:59 pm

August 1984. My first climb of Mt. Rainier. Gombu was a great tutor, using crampons and an ice axe. The crevasse rescues were scary stuff, at first, but experience made them easier to set up and use successfully. After all the years in between, I remember Gombu well. Rest in peace.

Posted by: G. Arnold Hartford on 5/23/2012 at 3:54 pm

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Mendoza

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

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Feliz Ano Nuevo from Mendoza! Our last dispatch was from Aconcagua's base camp and we have certainly covered many miles since then. A big day of walking from Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Llenas put us in camp just in time for a big Asado prepared by our herreros, the mule drivers who transport our gear off the mountain. An early morning walk brought us to Penitentes where we showered and had lunch before heading to Mendoza. Now back in civilization our celebratory meal felt great and is a far cry from mountain food and the thin air of the Andes, but the significance of the last few weeks that put us on top of the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya is still sinking in. Everyone has done a great job and I am thankful for the time spend with a great team. Nice work all! RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Returns to Base Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

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After nearly 6,000 feet of walking downhill, our tired but happy team pulled into Plaza Argentina. It was sunny and calm and perfect for setting up a relaxed camp before a big steak dinner. Everyone descended in style, putting a proud finish to a great climb. Tomorrow we will walk to Pampa de Llenas, a short hop from the road to Mendoza. Talk to you all in a few days. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Aconcagua Expedition: Back at High Camp After Successful Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

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"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. . . " After nearly two weeks of hard work here in the Andes, our team stood on top of the tallest mountain in either North or South America! Congratulations on a job well done. We had to earn it today, climbing through the chilly pre-dawn winds into a whiteout summit. Occasionally the surrounding peaks popped out, only to retreat behind an opaque veil that became our visual reality as we ascended the Canaleta to the summit. A fine day in the mountains nonetheless and everyone should be proud of a tough, safe and successful climb. Tomorrow we start the long voyage back to Mendoza, retracing the steps taken a few weeks ago back to civilization. Thanks for all the support from the homeland and we'll be seeing you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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KATIE AND ADAM—Way to go! Have safe and beautiful.trip back to us.
Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Slocumcoals on 1/2/2012 at 6:42 pm

Trevor, congratulations on your speedy climb!!!  Was that record time or what???  We all can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Love:  Heidi, Steve & the kids

Posted by: Heidi on 12/30/2011 at 3:44 pm

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Aconcagua Expedition:  Team on Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 22,841'

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RMI Guide Jake Beren phoned from the summit of Aconcagua. The team climbed well and there are seven climbers on the summit with the guides. Jake reported cloudy skies with lite snow. They will be starting their descent and will check in again soon. Congratulations to the team!

On The Map

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Congrats to all. Jake, you are the best.  Be safe!

Posted by: Bill McGahan on 1/12/2012 at 2:16 pm

Adam, Katieand team; Awesome job!!!! Congrats. Have a safe trip down and home.

Posted by: John and Maureem on 12/28/2011 at 6:23 am

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Aconcagua Expedition: Piedras Blancas Dispatch

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

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Today we moved from Guanacos Camp to our high camp at Piedras Blancas on Aconcagua. The team moved quite well and we pulled into camp in the early afternoon with plenty of time to set up shop and have a siesta before an early dinner. The weather is the wild card here, if it is climbable tomorrow we will go for the top. If not, we are prepared to wait it out. Wish us luck. P.S. A very happy birthday to il Padrino! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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David G & team, Still watching, waiting and now really holding my breath!!! Good luck and be safe. Love you.

Posted by: Connie on 12/27/2011 at 5:38 am

Rich D.,
Hope the weather is good so you can get to the top—-and then get right back down and home to me!
XO
Christina

Posted by: Christina on 12/26/2011 at 9:16 pm

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Aconcagua Expedition: Rest Day at Camp 2

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

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Merry Christmas One & All! We are enjoying the day relaxing at the Guanacos Camp on Aconcagua, resting before our last move to Camp 3 and summit push. There is a big of weather up high, but camp is sunny and pleasant. If things clear up tomorrow, then up we go! Cross your fingers for us dear friends! Thing of all you lowlanders today and can't want to reconnect when we descend. Enjoy the holidays amigos! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Good luck team!! Thinking of y’all from the U.S. Merry Christmas!

Posted by: Dan Judy on 12/26/2011 at 12:43 pm

  mom/kim,
  i love you thinking of you I’m proud of you

  Sophi

Posted by: sophia on 12/26/2011 at 12:09 pm

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