RMI Expeditions Blog
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It was a long day, although with perpetual daylight and a lot of excitement, we hardly noticed.
Starting at 4:30 AM, we were off to Punta Arenas airport to board our Ilyushin flight to Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica. The Ilyushin is a remarkable plane, capable of carrying huge payload long distances in tough conditions. But, luxury is not its forte. To get an idea, imagine 3 railroad freight cars tied together and sent aloft. Luxury aside, the Ilyushin is an experience of Antarctica not to be missed, and is quite a plane. The pilots dropped us on the 3 mile, blue ice runway as if it were a strip of cotton, and we all excitedly stepped off onto the ice.
The new Union Glacier camp - Antarctica headquarters of ALE - is as nice as it gets in every aspect. The ALE staff, who spend months here on the ice helping people fulfill their Antarctic dreams, do great work making sure every need is attended to. It all started with a gourmet lunch in the toasty dining tent, filling our bellies and putting smiles on our faces. We were all pretty comfy at Union Glacier, and not too opposed to the idea of staying a night there. But, then word came we would continue our journey, flying in an hour on to Vinson Basecamp (VBC).
It is rare to NOT have a delay at some point in the transition from Punta Arenas to Basecamp. Delays of a week or more are actually quite common. So, we weren't going to complain at getting all the way to Vinson Basecamp in one day - especially a warm, sunny one like we had.
Yet again we were off, in a two-part journey to VBC. A larger plane ferried us to the Nimmitz Glacier, where a Twin Otter took us the final 10 minutes to VBC. Kent Harvey and I went first in order to get good imagery of the Otter landing on the snow at VBC and the team's arrival. Unfortunately, after dropping us off, the Otter pilot fell and broke his wrist. Fortunately he'll be OK, but that incident added another 4 hours to the rest of the team arriving.
But, arrive they finally did, and we got camp set up in the stunning cirque of VBC. Jagged peaks soar above us, clad in massive glaciers under a never-setting sun. Seth made a great dinner of Dinty Moore meals, and sent us all to bed. It was 12:10 AM when I finally turned in, sunglasses still on. Welcome to Antarctica.
The winter seminar had one of the most spectacular sunny and wind free days possible on Mount Rainier yesterday! Our entire team successfully made the long walk to Camp Muir just in time to watch the sun set. We had warm drinks, a hot meal, a lot of laughs, and a nice night's sleep in the bunkhouse.
Today we woke to a wonderful sunrise with great views of Mt. Adams, Hood, St. Helens, and Jefferson. This morning we worked on ice axe, crampon, and rope travel skills on the flanks of the Cowlitz Glacier. We plan to train in avalanche beacon skills and avalanche terrain assessment for the afternoon as clouds swirl and conditions remain reasonable.
We are enjoying the winter beauty up on Mount Rainier!
-RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Walter Hailes, Andy Bond and Solveig Garhart
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Just got off the phone with our outfitter ALE. There will be no flight tonight. We are to dress in our gear, boot up, and be “wheels up” in the lobby at 4:30 am tomorrow morning. I have mixed feelings…glad to get another night in a bed after the enduro flights to get here, but I’m anxious to get on the ice and start.
This will be my third trip to Vinson and I am stoked to go back. Viesturs and I have been planning this trip for years. First Ascent is our primary sponsor, and the team consists of Ed Viesturs, Seth Waterfall, Caroline George, and Jake Norton, who are all First Ascent team members. Also coming along is Kent Harvey, one of the best high altitude cinematographers in the business. Rounding out our team are clients Cindy Outlaw, Ben Dimock, and David Pritchett. This team will climb Vinson, celebrating the 45th Anniversary of the first ascent done in 1966 by Americans, who were wearing…you got it, Eddie Bauer expedition clothing. We have the original flag from that expedition and plan to place it on top to commemorate their climb. After Vinson, the guides and production team will fly to an unexplored area and ski several first descents. Throughout the trip the entire team will be testing 2011 and 2012 First Ascent prototypes.
Just another day in the office…
Stay tuned for more updates,
Peter Whittaker
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
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The RMI Expedition to Vinson Massif began January 1, 2011 as the team members and guides departed the U.S. in route to Punta Arenas, Chile. The team is led by led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Seth Waterfall and Caroline George.
Today they met with staff from Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions for an orientation about life on the ice. The itinerary is for the group to fly to Antarctica tomorrow but it looks like the weather is good and thus the team is readying for a departure as early as this evening (10 pm Chilean time).
The big Ilyushin 76 has been loaded with gear, food and supplies. Everything the team will need for their ascent of Vinson Massif.
If the weather remains good down on the ice, the team may be in the air in just a few hours!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
RMI Guide Ed Viesturs discusses the preparation for this January's Vinson Massif expedition with First Ascent.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After a big day on the mountain, we stood on the top of Mexico's highest peak. Everyone did a great job and really earned the magnificent views of Ixta, Popo and La Malinche. It was a great night for climbing, shooting stars above, lit villages below, light winds on route and a great team. Excellent work. Back in Tlachichuca we all slept well for some reason and had our last meal together as a team. In our courtyard we could see Pico de Orizaba and the heights we reached yesterday at the same time of day. Now it's off to Mexico City to catch flights back home and watch the thousands of pilgrims riding bikes and trucks as well as walking to celebrate Mexico's favorite Lady of Guadalupe. Glad we get to drive. Thanks for a great trip everyone and safe travels back home.
Hello, this is RMI Guide Jake Beren calling to check in from our Mexico's Volcanoes program. We are happy to report that we reached the summit of Orizaba today at 9:00 a.m. local time. Our team did a great job on the climb.
We are headed back to Tlachichuca to celebrate and enjoy our last night in Mexico. Tomorrow we will return to Mexico City for our outbound flights.
Billy called at 9:00 a.m. PST, their entire team reached the summit of Cotopaxi this morning. They had good weather and a great climb. Currently they are enroute to Quito looking forward to a hot shower and a celebration dinner. The group will spend their last night in Ecuador tonight at the Hotel Mercure.
Congratulations to James, Casey, Sarah, Mark, Jon, Dawn, Rick, Andy and Billy!
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After an excellent rest day in Puebla where we explored the cobblestone streets, museums and pyramids we packed up and hit the road. In Tlachichuca we finalized our mountain equipment and enjoyed a great lunch at the climbers' compound run by our friend Dr. Reyes. Loading the truck and piling in saved us a long approach to the mountain. Once at the hut we had a big dinner and hit the sack. Tonight we will try our luck on Pico de Orizaba.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Well, it's our last night up high here in Ecuador. Today we awoke to relatively clear skies and enjoyed a great breakfast with views of Cotopaxi. After a short hike up to the refugio we've settled in and dined on a great meal of chicken breast burritos with sauteed vegetables. Tomorrow calls for another rugged alpine start (midnight or so), and a long day of climbing. There's lots of new snow so the mountain is especially beautuful. Hopefully conditions and the weather will cooperate and the beast will let us up to the top! Other teams have been summiting so that is good news. I'll check in again from Quito tomorrow evening and let everyone know how it went!
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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