Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Ready to Fly to Talkeetna

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Good morning! We’re packing up as we speak, and are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna in the next few hours. Unfortunately we can’t report another summit from yesterday. We continued to have more snow through the early afternoon and our fears for avalanche danger were confirmed when the temps climbed up later in the day. We settled for just the approach to the lower Pika, as we tested an incredibly reactive snowpack; while no climbing, that provided a super valuable safety learning opportunity for everyone.

That’s it for now, our next post will be from civilization with some pics.

Best,
Rmi Guide ElĂ­as deAndres Martos and Team

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Make a Move

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'

We woke to sunny skies, and the forecasted winds didn’t arrive down low where we were. After bagel, cream cheese, and bacon filled breakfast sandwiches we crashed our camp, loaded our sleds (more and more team members are naming their sleds each day - the better to curse them by), and started the climb up Ski Hill. The steeper terrain with all of the weight of our gear was a big effort, different from yesterday’s long miles with little elevation change, but the team handled it really well, and pulled into a cozy camp at 9500’ this evening. A big meal of Mac and cheese fortified with bacon put everyone into food comas, and were crawling into the sacks for the night. Tomorrow, we plan to move to 11k to really start the process of acclimating. That’s all the news from here. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team.

View from Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley.  RMI Photo Collection

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Alaska Seminar: Leon Davis and Team Fly to Basecamp

Posted by: Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau | May 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Greetings all

We departed Talkeetna into cloudy weather and for a while there we did not think we would make it. But thanks to the skill of our K2 pilots we were able to sneak in as the skies briefly parted. As a result of our teams hard work and cooperation we now have a fortified camp. We will sleep well behind block walls and we are excited for a chance to climb the radio tower tomorrow morning. Tonight we sleep under clear blue (still) skies and just a whisper of a cool breeze.

Until tomorrow then!

RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team

An RMI Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. RMI Photo Collection

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: May 17th Summit

Posted by: Ben Liken, Brent Okita | May 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  Brent reported clear skies, nice weather and great route conditions.  The teams were able to spend so time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

The May 17th RMI Team ascending the Emmons Shoulder at 13,000 ft en route to the summit.  Photo: Zeb Blais The RMI Four Day Summit Climb Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 17th.  Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 11,200’ Due to Wind

Posted by: Billy Haas, Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 16, 2016, 5:26 pm PT

Winds overnight at our 11,200’ camp were quite formidable, but our camp survived well due to our team’s hard work in building walls in the previous days.
By this morning, the winds abated somewhat at camp, so we rose early and fired stoves. We were hoping that we would be able to climb to Windy Corner at 13,600’ to place a cache of supplies for up higher. Unfortunately, it wasn’t our day and the winds continued through most of the day.
Instead we spent the morning adding more snow blocks to our camp for further wind protection. Everyone is doing well and in good spirits. We’ll try again tomorrow to get our cache up high. That’s all for now.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Fly on and Set Up Camp

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

May 16, 2015 1:09 am PT

Hi all,

While yesterday became a waiting game that ultimately left us sleeping in town for another night, this morning was sunny and blue, and immediately after breakfast, we loaded the planes and were off! The flight in was spectacular with great views of the range. After a couple hours of sorting loads, packing, and rigging, we walked out of base camp and on to the lower Kahiltna. We made great time, and now we are snugly tucked into camp after an eventful day. Time to catch some Zzzz. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young, and team

On The Map

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb Big Arapiles

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

May 16th 2:06 am PT

Good morning from Little Switzerland. We had an awesome day yesterday!!! We woke up to marginal weather and spent the morning mastering lead climbing techniques and tricks at the belay. As things stabilized, we broke again into groups and climbers took the lead and responsibility to guide us to Big Arapiles, both up and down; It was an incredible outing and Vanessa, Tyler, Kyle, John and Paul made us proud.

Our plan today may change, as we are receiving a ton of snow. We’ll check back in later and let you know.

Standing by from the Pika Glacier,
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand, and team

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty

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Mt. Rainier: May 16th Summit

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson, Andrew Kiefer, Stoney Molina | May 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the entire Four Day Summit Climb team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! Casey reported chilly temperatures but light wind and lots of sunshine on the summit. The team is beginning their descent back to Camp Muir where they will refuel and pack up before continuing on to Paradise. We look forward to greeting the team in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

An RMI team ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Take Another Rest Day Due to Winds

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 15th 2:30 pm PT

Overnight winds here at the 11k Camp were strong, but subsided a bit by morning. We woke early and fired stoves for a much anticipated cup of coffee…followed by a breakfast of smoked salmon, cream cheese, and bagels (it’s not all about suffering up here).
Our team was ready, but the winds up above Motorcycle Hill and around Windy Corner, where we intend to place our cache, never subsided to levels that we were comfortable with.
We ended up taking another rest day here at 11k, which is always a good thing. Hopefully we’ll be able to make our cache tomorrow. We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Seminar: Leon Davis & Team Ready to Go

Posted by: Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau | May 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Good morning friends and family!

The Alaska Seminar team here in Talkeetna is getting things done in great style. Weather is looking better with each passing hour and everyone did a fantastic job with rigging their gear. Here it is noon and we are just about ready to fly!  So the team is gonna grab a last meal in town and our next communique will be from base camp! 

Have a lovely day everyone,
RMI Guide Leon Davis

The May 14th Alaska Seminar team poses for a photo while taking a break from packing. Photo: Leon Davis

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Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
14,410' - 12300
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, Mt. Foraker in the background.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team taking a weather day at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team pulling sled from from Base Camp en route to Camp 1 on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Chris Villar
  • An RMI team fortifies snow walls for protection from the wind at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the fixed lines outside of 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The May 19th McKinley team preparing for the climb in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • The May 19th McKinley team ready to fly in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner
  • An RMI Alaska Seminar Team navigating the glacier.  Photo: Kel Rossiter
  • Prayer flags fly at Everest Base Camp with Pumori summit behind.  Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Camp at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from Kahiltna Base Camp.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Posh tent set up at 14,000 ft Camp.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The Summit Ridge of Radio Tower. RMI Photo Collection
  • View from Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley.  RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. RMI Photo Collection
  • The May 17th RMI Team ascending the Emmons Shoulder at 13,000 ft en route to the summit.  Photo: Zeb Blais
  • The RMI Four Day Summit Climb Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 17th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos ascends Big Arapiles in Little Switzerland, Alaska. Photo: Bridget Schletty
  • RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos looks across the Pika Glacier towards the Trolls, from the summit of Big Arapiles. Photo: Bridget Schletty