Hi everybody and welcome to the first installation of many dispatches from this summer's Ecuador Volcanoes program!
The team finally met each other as a complete group this morning for breakfast after several hectic laps between the airport and hotel late last night. Team members were trickling in gradually through the night and the crowds of Ecuadorians awaiting family members made for quite a scene. Actually, it was more like a zoo with a traffic jam outside. Fortunately, Jaime and Victor (our expert locals) were incredibly helpful in scooping up our climbers and adept at navigating the melee. Anyway, after a decent breakfast and getting to know each other a bit the team headed out for a day cruising around Quito as full-fledged tourists of the sight-seeing variety. With the majority of the city situated at over 9,000' we have actually already begun our acclimatization process. After a long day of travel just to arrive in Ecuador, it was nice to have a day to just cruise around and get comfortable.
The city tour hit up lots of old colonial and contemporary sights including religious, governmental, and culturally significant buildings. We climbed the rickety catwalks high in the Basilica and caught tremendous 360 degree views of this huge metropolis of more than 3 million citizens and later went to the exact geographical equator where we played around with the strange forces the earth's rotation creates uniquely on the middle of the planet. The equator museum also had a cool sort of natural history museum with a collection of flora and fauna and anthropological relics from Ecuador's various regions. We're talking giant anaconda and boa skins, real human shrunken heads, and a gnarly, preserved amazon candiru - look it up... The team had fun getting to hang out in a casual atmosphere and we aim to keep the fun going as we begin some of our physical activity tomorrow with a training hike up on Rucu Pichincha, a volcano right above the city where we will hopefully hit nearly 16,000'. That should help jump start the acclimatization followed by a night's rest at relatively lower altitude in Quito.
Well, headed off to dinner with the crew, more to come as the situation develops,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by JJ Justman and Billy Nugent turned today at the top of Disappointment Cleaver due to difficult conditions. The weather continues to be winter like on the upper mountain and is slowly transitioning into summer. High winds and firm conditions have thwarted attempts and guides are working hard to establish a safe route.
We are expecting Mt. Rainier to release its winter hold on the upper mountain any day now.
Great job, Mark and team! You guys are unstoppable!
Posted by: barry on 6/16/2012 at 6:40 am
Kristen!
We are oh so proud of you, here back at Hanover High School! It’s graduation week and we’re missing you terribly but so happy that you have completed your journey!
We love you and are thinking of you constantly!
Can’t wait for you to get home!
Love,
Asie
Hey there, it's, Billy calling just wanted to give you guys an update and let you know where the crew is. After our summit day we descended from 17 down to the 14 camp and ended up spending the night there. Then got an early this morning and made the march all the way to base camp. Right now, everybody is sitting pretty at Kahiltna base. We have set up the tents. It is kind of socked in and cloudy so we are just hoping for planes at some point tomorrow morning. Forecast is kind of iffy so,we’ll see. We may be sitting here for a couple of days. But everyone is down safe and sound. So, will call and check in again one more time when we get back to town and off the mountain.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from Kahiltna Base Camp.
Gibert:
I want to congratulate you and your team on successfully summitting Mount McKinley. No matter what hemisphere you are adventuring ... you seem to make it all the way to the top. Congratulations! What’s next?!
Fred Klingbeil
Aconcaqua (January 2012)
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/6/2012 at 11:22 am
Hi- Bran and team..
U must have had been so thrilled when u reach the summit!! I know I was so thrilled and so was Dad, I think I txted and called everyone.. Now it time for u and the team to celebrate!!! Thanks Bill Nugent, u r a awesome Guide..
Love Mom & Dad
Hey this is Gilbert with the RMI May 15th expedition calling after a successful summit day here on Denali. We are back safe and sound in our tents brewing up some water and dinner. We left around 10 am under clear skies and very little wind. We had a great summit with eight clients and three guides.
Now we are back safe and sound. We are going to re-hydrate and re-fuel and beat feat down to basecamp and hopefully fly out in the next 24 hours or so and be back in Talkeetna.
So, that is all for now and we will keep in touch.
RMI Guide Gilbert Chase
RMI Guide Gilbert Chase checks in after a successful summit day on Denali.
Hey, everybody it’s Billy.
I’m calling from 17,000’ where we are enjoying our third rest day or you could call them weather days. We have been sitting around in the clouds, it has been snowy and windy. We are hoping that this high pressure that is supposed to build this weekend over the mountain actually happens and we’ll get a chance to climb. Right now the team is hanging tight, chilling in their tent, every now and then getting out and working on the snow walls, trying to maintain sanity and waiting for this weather to lift so we can take a crack at the top. I’ll give you guys a call again tomorrow, let you know if anything new develops.
Take care,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.
Hey everybody back at home, this is Billy I am checking in from our high camp at 17,000'.
The team moved up yesterday. It was looking a little bit iffy weather wise but it looked like we were going to get a window. The weather cleared right up for us for our move and we moved right into high camp and set up shop. We were considering taking a shot at the summit today but winds returned and we opted to rest here at 17,000'. So everyone is snug in their sleeping bags, hanging out in the tent. Things are sunny here in camp right now but we had a fair bit of wind up on the ridge above Denali Pass that is going to keep us from going at least today. We are keeping our fingers crossed for tomorrow. We have enough supplies to last about a week up here. So we are hoping for a good weather window and the team should be able to get out there and punch the summit.
So we'll give you a call tomorrow and let you know what we are up to.
Take care,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 17000 on Mt. McKinley
May 29:
Holy guacamole, another sabbath (day of rest) here at 14 camp. Definitely well-deserved after yesterday's hard work getting a cache in up on the West Buttress. We spent the day hanging out and worrying about ambiguous weather forecasts, philosophizing as usual, and helping Mike Walter's crew get settled in and reinvigorated after their successful summit push yesterday. Our plan is to make our move up to high camp at 17,000' tomorrow and hopefully put ourselves in a good position to take a crack at the summit in the near future. The weather is a definite concern but with a little luck the team will hopefully be standing on top in the next few days!
Lots of hard work lies ahead.
Wish us luck,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang
May 28:
Caching at Washburn's thumb
A clear and cold morning slowly gave way to a hot climb to the fixed lines. As we managed our layers we climbed higher gaining better views of Mount Hunter and Foraker. Ascending the fixed lines with out incident we reached the West Buttress proper and began climbing towards Washburn's thumb. Picking our way through rock outcroppings and steep snow ridges with GoPros rolling we made our cache at 4:00 PM. Retracing our steps we reached the fixed lines and descended into the afternoon clouds. A long day concluded back at 14 camp with Indian Fare, rice, and hot drinks.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
George,
we have been following your progress. We weren’t able to write from Pinetop but could log on at the rec center and see where you and the other two teams are at. Laura says it seems as if the trail never ends…Kids miss you. I do, too. God’s willing the weather cooperates for your summit. take a lot of photos.
Hugs and kisses from the three of us
Posted by: janina on 5/30/2012 at 8:41 pm
To Paul from Chloe:
I can’t wait for you to get to the top & come home. I really miss you. xoxo air kiss and air hug
A rest day! Yay! We did such amazing things as sleeping in, more turbo tanning, sport eating, walking out to the Edge of the World, more sport eating, fixed line practice, and packing for tomorrow's carry up the fixed lines. Per the norm, the team is in good spirits but perhaps a bit anxious for tomorrow. The weather is supposed to be in and out for the extended forecast so we are planning to stick to our schedule until we are forced to wait.
Hoping for a great day tomorrow, once we get this cache in we will be on standby for good weather and hopefully pulling the trigger on our move to high camp and subsequent summit push...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and friends
Hello GRD from AOMS in Tucson Arizona. We are thinking of you and tracking your progress. Your almost to the top!!! WooHoo!!! Looking forward to the Summit pictures, stories and your safe return!
Enjoy every moment!!! :)
Posted by: Robin Alexander on 5/29/2012 at 9:22 am
Hi Donny. We are so proud of you. The whole family in St Louis is following your team’s progress. Uncle Jim
Today saw pretty much constant snow all day long. Fortunately, the winds have remained calm and our crew was able to back-carry today despite the precipitation and stay right on schedule. We are now sitting pretty at 14,200' with all of our provisions and fuel. The weather is supposed to remain a little bit squirrelly through tomorrow which will coincide nicely with a well-deserved rest day. We spent most of the afternoon after the back-carry chilling in the posh and sport eating. Good times. The crew is in good spirits and pumped for the climbing ahead!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Hope your rest day was filled with sleep, laughs, and food. Stay well, think of you all the time and each step you take gets you closer and closer. Roger Hector sends his best and is so darn proud of YOU Elizabeth.As always hugs and love. Mom & Dad
Posted by: Maureen Bartron on 5/27/2012 at 9:34 am
just FYI for those at home—you know that these aren’t specifically photos from this trip or this team. the guides only have sat phones, not an internet connection!
these are just generic pictures of the sections they are currently on…
Well, we've made our move on up to camp at 14k on a scorching hot day with our second trip around (not-so) Windy Corner. We rolled in around 4:15 pm where Mike Walter and his crew were kind enough to leave us a great looking camp to move into. This left us with significantly less work building walls and digging platforms, lucky us! Thanks Mike! Clouds have moved in this evening and it has started to snow a bit but we are already fed, settled in, and for the most part crashed out. It was a tough day especially with the heat but the gang persevered.
'til tomorrow,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Have a save climb! Hope the weather is cooperative and you get great views the whole way.
Posted by: Oscar on 6/21/2012 at 9:17 pm
Have gun you guys. Be safe
Posted by: chris fisher on 6/20/2012 at 7:00 pm
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