Entries By felipe guarderas

Our Cotopaxi summit day came highly anticipated after being run off of Cayambe earlier in the week. We awoke to high overcast at 11pm and decided it looked good for a run at the summit. The night began with the customary bread rolls, slab of butter and huge plate of jelly that is put out every night at the same time. While it would be nice to stagger our starts a little, we are at the mercy of when the hot water and aforementioned breakfast will be served.

One team made it out of the gates ahead of us, but it took very little time before they were peeling jackets and we were passing them in the unseasonably warm night. That put us in front for breaking trail for most of the climb, a task that Felipe took on energetically. There had been some question as to what snow conditions we might encounter up high, but at the very worst we dealt with a few inches of graupel that made for difficult footing as it had filled in slightly deeper where the track previously existed.

This team was well-rested and ready to go, as evidenced by our 8 hour roundtrip summit day. The conditions were excellent for our descent, but that still doesn't diminish the fact that we got up and down in 2-3 hours less than normal. A big thanks to this team for being so well-prepared to climb that we could have a safe climb and spend much of it chatting with one another. Tonight we will dine together as a group, one final time, and recap the trip before returning home.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

January 26: A Thrilling Ascent to Cayambe

The adventure began with an alpine start, as our strong team set out for Cayambe. Under a breathtaking sky, we were treated to views of the southern cross as well as constellations we recognize in the northern hemisphere, a rare celestial show for the climb ahead.

As we reached the glacier, the weather took a gentle turn with light snowflakes beginning to fall. A stunning sight awaited us as we gazed towards the Amazon, where flashes of lightning illuminated the distant sky, creating a dramatic backdrop to our ascent.

Pushing onward, our team persevered to an altitude of 17,500 feet. The snow intensified, and we could feel a palpable electricity in the air—a sign that the weather was turning. Prioritizing safety, we made the wise decision to descend before the storm hit.

Once back at camp, we took a moment to rest and capture the stunning views and a well-deserved rest followed by a hearty hut breakfast.

The adventure continued as we embarked on an exhilarating ride down the access road from Cayambe to Los Mortiños, a quaint and comfortable refuge nestled at the base of Cotopaxi. Once we settled at Los Mortiños, we indulged in a fantastic dinner and a well-deserved drink, savoring the camaraderie of our team before sinking into a restful night.

January 27: A Day of Rest and Reflection

We awoke to another hot coffee along with tasty Ecuadorian breakfast. In the backdrop, a view of Cotopaxi framing our dining experience. After a good meal, coffee, and some great conversation we broke for a well-earned relaxing day. 

Some of us enjoyed a nice book by the fireplace, while others opted for a serene horseback ride through the picturesque countryside. The tranquility of the surroundings offered the perfect backdrop for reflection and rejuvenation.

Shortly we’ll be gathering again for dinner, sharing our experiences and excitement for the big day on Cotopaxi that lay ahead. Stay tuned as we prepare for the next leg of our adventure!

RMI Climber Paul Morgan

After a relaxing morning and filling  breakfast at the Refugio, we packed our bags, bid farewell to our new four legged friends,  loaded ourselves in the bus, and moved one step closer to our first objective: Cayambe.  The day was a scheduled rest day, so naturally we did what all climbers do, we went shopping! We stopped at the outdoor market in Otavalo and shopped for gifts while soaking up some local culture. 

Eventually we made our way to the lower climbers hut.  What a pleasant surprise it turned out to be!  Many of us had mentally steeled ourselves for something more rustic… however we were treated to comfy beds with pillows, WiFi, and a warm stove!  “Glampineering” feels like an accurate description.  After spending a quiet afternoon relaxing and a delicious homemade dinner, we found ourselves huddled around our phones anxiously watching Alex Honnold scale Taipei 101.  Spoiler: he makes it to the top. 

After breakfast Sunday morning, we donned our gear and practiced our skills in preparation for Cayambe.  Once we were all feeling more confident, we packed our bags, climbed into trucks, and headed to the upper climbers hut.   While not as luxurious as the lower one, it again exceeded our expectations.  

 Now, we relax and prepare to begin our climb at midnight tonight, a shared sense of anxious excitement resonates through the team.  Each person is here for their own reasons, but collectively we are focused on one goal: Cayambe.

RMI Climber Erica Kim

This morning brought more pleasant weather in the form of overcast skies as opposed to yesterday’s endless, torrential downpour. We shoved out of Quito a bit ahead of schedule and were able to complete the four-hour loop hike of Laguna Cuicocha without incident.

Along the way people continued to connect with each other and share knowledge and experiences. On this trip we’ve learned a good deal from each other discussing a variety of topics: geology, biology, medicine, piloting an aircraft and how to keep your worried passengers at ease, as well as countless other topics. A lot can also be learned about a person through their fast-food preferences.

Even as we turn our sights towards Cayambe, we have done a great job of focusing on the task at hand (acclimatization) and taking in some lovely cultural experiences.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

We just got as wet as I can imagine a person can possibly be. It may be dryer standing in the shower. 

Skeptical of the day's forecast (as always in Ecuador), but also based on the pattern that was observed prior to our arrival, we headed into the cloud and rain on Rucu Pichincha. It was one of those hard shells all day kind of days. Actually, the rain let up for one moment, we took the hard shells off and it immediately began raining profusely and never let up. The weather was in fact so wet that the gondola never reopened for our ride down and we took a steep, slippery trail down an extra 2700'. That was honestly pretty neat with water cascading down the trail and by that point, we couldn't possibly have gotten any wetter, so it was nicer to be warm and wet than cold and wet (waiting for the gondola to reopen).

The team was patient, flexible and overall got a decently nice hike in. In a region that doesn't have centralized heating in buildings due to the stable, comfortable weather, our hanging backpacks, jackets and hiking clothes will surely still be somewhat wet in the morning when we depart the hotel and head for our next acclimatization hike. Oh well, everyone is taking it in stride and at a minimum, today was memorable.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Cotopaxi Express Daily Blog 

The team woke up this morning in a packed climbers hut at the ripe hour of 4am to climb Illiniza. Snow and sleet covered the ground and word came from the top to go back to bed. After a brief breakfast The team set off at 7 am towards Illiniza Norte with a windy snow still coming down but daylight on our side. Teams split into smaller groups to tackle the snowy scramble up the knife edge ridge of the mountain. Conditions remained poor, and we turned around 16,300’ to head down to the familiarity of the climbers hut. Repacked and trekking down to the bus, snow turned to rain and the bus was a warm bumpy welcome down the cobblestone roads. Lunch at a VERY FAMOUS pizza dive. Now the team is relaxing in front of wood stove fires, gazing over pastures towards the cloudy abyss—looking to catch a glimpse of the pinnacle objective hidden in the mist.

RMI Climbers, Dan and Joe Hayden 

The Five Day Climb July 26 - 30 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today!  Led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Ben Luedtke, the team reached the crater under blue skies and excellent conditions.  They enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a well-deserved night's rest before contining the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise tomorrow.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

PC: Ben Luedtke

The Mt. Baker North Ridge team, led by RMI Guide Sam Marjerison, reached the summit of Mt. Baker this morning. The team ascended via the North Ridge route, a classic climb in the North Cascades. Strong work by all, as everyone reached the top — a 100% success rate!

Congratulations, Team!

At 5:45 AM, under bluebird skies and in calm, clear, and beautiful conditions, the Four Day Climb team led by Brent Okita and Nick Sinapius reached the summit!  

They’re already on the descent, making the most of this perfect alpine morning.

Huge congrats to the team for a strong and successful push!

RMI Guides Tatum Whatford and Felipe Guarderas led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The guides reported an amazing day with light winds and clear skies.  The route is busy with climbers so the teams reached the crater rim and have started their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at camp the climbers will enjoy a relaxing afternoon on the mountain and celebrate their accomplishment.  The team will spend tonight at 10,080' and continue the remaining 4.5 miles/4,500' down to Paradise tomorrow.

Congratulations to today's climbers!