Entries By felipe guarderas

A thunder and lightning storm rolled through the area yesterday evening which kept the Four Day Climb July 20 - 23 from making their summit attempt.  The teams led by RMI Guides Mike Bennett and Sam Hoffman were able to ascend to Ingraham Flats around 8 am to see a bit of the route and use their glacier travel skills.  They will descend from Camp Muir later this morning.

The four-day climb led by RMI guides Joe Hoch and Jackson Breen reached the summit of Mt Rainier this morning around 6:30am. They reported cold temperatures and moderate winds. They are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and will return to Ashford this afternoon. 

Great work everyone!

RMI's four-day climb led by guides Joe Hoch and Felipe Guarderas reached the summit of Mt Rainier this morning around 6:20am. They reported sunshine with a light breeze and a trace of new snow. They are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and will return to Ashford this afternoon. 

Great work everyone!

Climbers were greeted with clear skies and calm winds as they made a successful ascent of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the summit under beautiful conditions, led by RMI Guides Tom Skoog and Felipe Guarderas.

After spending time on the summit, the teams have begun their descent and will return to Camp Muir before continuing down to Paradise later today.

Congratulations to all of today's climbers and guides on a successful summit day!

The Four Day Climb June 15 - 18 led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Felipe Guarderas reached 13,600ft this morning before high winds and route conditions turned them around. The team had descended to the top of Disppointment Cleaver, 12,500', by 7 am and are continuing to make their way back to Camp Muir. After a short break, they will continue from Camp Muir to Paradise. We expect them to return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

We weren't able to summit this morning after multiple days and multiple feet of new snow. But we took advantage of the perfect weather for a classic stunning sunrise at Ingraham Flats!

- RMI Guide Joe Hoch

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Leif Bergstrom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today via the Emmons Glacier.  The team bumped up to Camp Schurman yesterday putting their glacier travel, ice ace arrest and cramponing skills they learned over the last few days to the test. Once back to Camp Schurman, they will enjoy the afternoon and evening.  Tomorrow they will break camp and descend to the trailhead, returning to Ashford tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations to our first Emmons Seminar team!

Our Cotopaxi summit day came highly anticipated after being run off of Cayambe earlier in the week. We awoke to high overcast at 11pm and decided it looked good for a run at the summit. The night began with the customary bread rolls, slab of butter and huge plate of jelly that is put out every night at the same time. While it would be nice to stagger our starts a little, we are at the mercy of when the hot water and aforementioned breakfast will be served.

One team made it out of the gates ahead of us, but it took very little time before they were peeling jackets and we were passing them in the unseasonably warm night. That put us in front for breaking trail for most of the climb, a task that Felipe took on energetically. There had been some question as to what snow conditions we might encounter up high, but at the very worst we dealt with a few inches of graupel that made for difficult footing as it had filled in slightly deeper where the track previously existed.

This team was well-rested and ready to go, as evidenced by our 8 hour roundtrip summit day. The conditions were excellent for our descent, but that still doesn't diminish the fact that we got up and down in 2-3 hours less than normal. A big thanks to this team for being so well-prepared to climb that we could have a safe climb and spend much of it chatting with one another. Tonight we will dine together as a group, one final time, and recap the trip before returning home.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

January 26: A Thrilling Ascent to Cayambe

The adventure began with an alpine start, as our strong team set out for Cayambe. Under a breathtaking sky, we were treated to views of the southern cross as well as constellations we recognize in the northern hemisphere, a rare celestial show for the climb ahead.

As we reached the glacier, the weather took a gentle turn with light snowflakes beginning to fall. A stunning sight awaited us as we gazed towards the Amazon, where flashes of lightning illuminated the distant sky, creating a dramatic backdrop to our ascent.

Pushing onward, our team persevered to an altitude of 17,500 feet. The snow intensified, and we could feel a palpable electricity in the air—a sign that the weather was turning. Prioritizing safety, we made the wise decision to descend before the storm hit.

Once back at camp, we took a moment to rest and capture the stunning views and a well-deserved rest followed by a hearty hut breakfast.

The adventure continued as we embarked on an exhilarating ride down the access road from Cayambe to Los Mortiños, a quaint and comfortable refuge nestled at the base of Cotopaxi. Once we settled at Los Mortiños, we indulged in a fantastic dinner and a well-deserved drink, savoring the camaraderie of our team before sinking into a restful night.

January 27: A Day of Rest and Reflection

We awoke to another hot coffee along with tasty Ecuadorian breakfast. In the backdrop, a view of Cotopaxi framing our dining experience. After a good meal, coffee, and some great conversation we broke for a well-earned relaxing day. 

Some of us enjoyed a nice book by the fireplace, while others opted for a serene horseback ride through the picturesque countryside. The tranquility of the surroundings offered the perfect backdrop for reflection and rejuvenation.

Shortly we’ll be gathering again for dinner, sharing our experiences and excitement for the big day on Cotopaxi that lay ahead. Stay tuned as we prepare for the next leg of our adventure!

RMI Climber Paul Morgan

After a relaxing morning and filling  breakfast at the Refugio, we packed our bags, bid farewell to our new four legged friends,  loaded ourselves in the bus, and moved one step closer to our first objective: Cayambe.  The day was a scheduled rest day, so naturally we did what all climbers do, we went shopping! We stopped at the outdoor market in Otavalo and shopped for gifts while soaking up some local culture. 

Eventually we made our way to the lower climbers hut.  What a pleasant surprise it turned out to be!  Many of us had mentally steeled ourselves for something more rustic… however we were treated to comfy beds with pillows, WiFi, and a warm stove!  “Glampineering” feels like an accurate description.  After spending a quiet afternoon relaxing and a delicious homemade dinner, we found ourselves huddled around our phones anxiously watching Alex Honnold scale Taipei 101.  Spoiler: he makes it to the top. 

After breakfast Sunday morning, we donned our gear and practiced our skills in preparation for Cayambe.  Once we were all feeling more confident, we packed our bags, climbed into trucks, and headed to the upper climbers hut.   While not as luxurious as the lower one, it again exceeded our expectations.  

 Now, we relax and prepare to begin our climb at midnight tonight, a shared sense of anxious excitement resonates through the team.  Each person is here for their own reasons, but collectively we are focused on one goal: Cayambe.

RMI Climber Erica Kim