Entries By hannah smith
June 25, 2016 - 9:14 pm PT
Checking the weather at 3:30 this morning revealed a slightly gloomy world of clouds. It had snowed, but just a little, and it was calm. So we fired the stoves and rallied the team. While we ate breakfast and got ready to travel, about 50 climbers from at least a half dozen teams trudged by on the final day of their expeditions. More or less happily heading for the exits. We recognized and shouted greetings to many of the guides. They'd all tagged the top in the last couple of days after waiting out prolonged storms.
Our team packed up and got on the track as if they'd been climbing for weeks. We were moving by 6:15 AM with the sky clearing and trail conditions far better than they'd been the day before. On the compacted and frozen surface our sleds were a lot easier to pull. We charged up
"Ski Hill" and after a couple of rest breaks and some tough uphill sections we pulled in to the plateau at 9,300 ft and dug a new camp in the snow. By noon, most of the team were headed into their new homes to nap and get out of the intense sunshine. We passed a lazy and quiet afternoon without much more sign of other teams. We've already got the place to ourselves, it seems.
We'll get up early again and see if we can get up to 11,000 ft tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 24, 2016 - 10:24 pm PT
It began raining at Kahiltna Basecamp around 9PM, and that transitioned to wet snow at about 2 AM. So we didn't go for that Alpine Start we were angling toward. It was still snowing at 7:30 AM when we got up to build breakfast but then it quit and things began to improve. We'd begun to think we'd be stuck in BC for a storm day, but with clearing weather and the knowledge that the glacier was in exceptionally good condition for late June, we decided to make use of the day. As always, it took a while breaking camp and gearing up for this first push. It was awkward rigging sleds into rope travel and it was awkward for some to be on snowshoes with heavy packs. We got out of BC by 10:45 and by then the sky was mostly blue and the sun was mostly hot. After the rain, the surface was a little slushy but not all that bad for travel. We moved down the SE Fork and took a right turn at the main
Kahiltna Glacier. We had things pretty much to ourselves with only the occasional one or two European climbers at a time coming past on their way out. We made steady progress, but we weren't moving fast with the slushy conditions. We decided to quit after six hours of work, which had brought us to just about 45 minutes below the more common camp at 7800. We are out under West Kahiltna Peak. All day as we traveled, we could hear avalanches thundering down the mountainsides, and from time to time we'd look hard enough to find the clouds of ice billowing out from the snowy torrents.
We had a secure camp up by 6 and dinner by 7 PM so that all could get enough rest for another big day tomorrow. Hopefully on a frozen surface with cooler conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 23, 2016 - 9:39 P.M. PDT
First day in our new home...The Alaska Range. We enjoyed a final night in Talkeetna and another great breakfast at the Roadhouse, but then we hustled out to the airstrip. There was no "hurry up and wait" today, more like just plain hurry up. The weather was good and the pilots were ready to go. Stan and Randy each piloted a big and beautiful Otter on skis into the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and spit us and our gear out onto the snow...all before 10 A.M. We spent a calm day building camp and reviewing glacier travel techniques. We'd take breaks from time to time to sip water and stare at the giant mountain walls surrounding us. Cloud cover moved in to obscure those walls by our early bedtime. Our intention is to be up at midnight for an alpine start. During the flight in, we could see that the rumors have been spot on. The lower glacier is in excellent condition with very few open crevasses. Even so, we'll go at it early when the surface has the best chance for being frozen solid.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 22, 2016 - 12:17 a.m. P.D.T.
The final RMI Expeditions
Denali trip of 2016 is kicking off. The team assembled in Anchorage today, with a few reunions and a few introductions, and made the traditional pilgrimage to Talkeetna. Bill, our Denali Overland driver, got the van out of the Anchorage rush hour traffic and out onto the open road with big views of the Chugach foothills and the Talkeetna Mountains. After a last stop for provisions in Wasilla, we cruised on up to epic views of the Alaska Range itself just before pulling into Talkeetna. We settled our climbing gear at the airplane hangar and checked in to the venerable Talkeetna Motel. Some of the team ventured out to sample local beer and appetizers, some went straight to the mattresses after long days of prep and travel. We'll dial down on pre-climb details tomorrow morning...Tonight it was unwind and get settled in the land of the midnight sun.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
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Wow that looks fantastic!!! We’re really hoping the weather holds for you. Good luck from down under
Posted by: Kate & Paul in Aus on 6/28/2016 at 9:01 pm
Go get it David! We all have your back here in Texas.
Posted by: Brian Schnautz on 6/26/2016 at 4:29 pm
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