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Entries By jake beren


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Wrap Up Their Expedition

June 18, 2016 - 7:18 pm PT

It was anyone’s guess how today would turn out based on the snow piling up on our tents this morning. We dragged our feet a little before downing a cup of coffee and packing up our camp. We pushed down the glacier in a near whiteout, unsure if any planes would venture into the Alaska Range today. After a great trip the team was ready to head home, but we had to still wait and see what Denali had in store for us. As we descended, the visibility improved and it began to look like some fancy flying might just get us to a shower after all. The weather continued to cooperate and it wasn’t long before the awesome pilots at K2 had us back in the land of green forests, running water and options for food. And like that we left the Range after a few great weeks with our teammates.

It was an exceptional adventure, made great by the team who shared the effort to make it happen. Thanks to all involved for making it happen and we will all be home soon!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Thanks to the great guides who did such a wonderful job getting this team up to the summit and safely back down again.  Your knowledge of the mountain, the weather patterns, and your decisions about when to advance or when to stay put make all the difference.  Thanks a million to all of you.  You’re the best!!!

Posted by: Bud on 6/18/2016 at 8:48 pm


Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Jake Beren & Team Fly Off Glacier

RMI Guide Jake Beren and Team called at 2:25 pm PST to let us know they have flown off of the mountain and expect to land in Talkeetna shortly.

Congratulations Team!


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 7,800’

June 17, 2016 - 11:36 pm PT

What a big few days it’s been!  Forgive the radio silence, but our team has been busy getting some real climbing done. Since our glorious finale to our ascent, we descended back to 17 Camp and had a well deserved rest. We awoke early this morning with a motivating forecast to move and packed up our alpine home and began our descent. As we scooped up caches at 16,600, 14,200 and 11,000 our decision to beat feet downhill seemed well made. Winds and snow took over the upper camps and we made it to 7,800 camp where the air is thick and the temps are pleasant (by our new standards). We carved out a quick camp and are planning on an early morning to try and catch a flight tomorrow. Wish us one more day of decent weather and we’ll be back to tell all the details of one hell of an adventure! 

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Holy buckets!  “Wings on your feet” and all that!  I’m so glad the weather is holding and that your descent is going well.  You all deserve a much needed rest so get K2 on the line in preparation of the first leg back home!  I can’t WAIT to hear all about this wonderful adventure!  Thank you again to God and to you three very accomplished and knowledgeable guides!  You’re the BEST!!!  Bird

Posted by: Bird on 6/18/2016 at 6:53 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Call from the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 6:07 PM PT

Hello from the top of Denali. We were lucky today and the mountain let us to the tip top. We are all doing fantastically well, the weather is just about perfect and we will soon start our descent. But we just wanted to check in, we will enjoy the views for a little bit longer, but the team has done great, everyone worked super hard. I’m quite proud of all of them. We will give you a shout from the lowlands.  Take care all.

RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Denali, Alaska.

On The Map

Congratulations to the whole team!  Fantastic news Jason, I’m looking forward to hearing all about your experience.  Safe descent and “slán abhaile” (Irish for safe home).  Fr Joseph

Posted by: Fr Joseph on 6/17/2016 at 11:16 pm

WoooooHooooooo!!!!!
Way to go all!!
Safe downclimb and tasty beer!

Posted by: Jones-Hartmans on 6/17/2016 at 8:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT

The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we’re gonna need it!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent.  I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team.  Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT

With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT

What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali!  We didn’t get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow’s ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we’ll be just fine.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Jason,
Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!
~Knutsons

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren and Team Carry to Washburn’s Thumb

June 12, 2016 - 10:53 p.m. PDT

We left camp with chilly toes and no one ahead of us. Pushing toward the fixed lines, we were treated to the sun at our first break. The sun (and uphill effort) warmed us up and soon we were steadily working up the fixed lines. It was a beautiful day and the team got their first taste of real altitude. We did fine and cached just below the impressive Washburn Thumb. The time spent on the West Buttress is the best climbing of the route and we had a perfect day to dance on the ridge. Now we are all set up for the next window in the weather to move higher. Tomorrow we will rest up to prepare our bodies for the next challenge.

RMI Guide Jake Beren and team

On The Map

Jake - wishing you all success and the best weather imaginable. Have been following your steady progress - and remembering what a great job you did leading our team back in the day. See you in the fall, if not before.

Posted by: Peter Rogers on 6/14/2016 at 6:59 am

Jason,
We continue to see the daunting, yet beautiful pictures. We look forward to hearing your stories of struggles and perseverance. The map continues to show you closer to the summit. Keep it up!

Posted by: Shawn Bernard on 6/13/2016 at 10:51 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 11, 2016 - 11:11 pm PT

Today was a delight. We slept in a little, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hit up some training. The fixed lines loom a thousand feet above us and we prepared ourselves for them with a simulation above camp. We duplicated the transitions with ascenders until the team became certified ascender ninjas. We are ready to tackle them, I only hope they are ready for us.

After our training we rested for a bit and then fortified camp. The team busted out walls and worked very well together on the parapets and ramparts that will secure our castle while we are crusading higher. Should the weather hold we will try to establish a cache for the upper upper mountain. We’ll let you know how it all goes tomorrow. Sleep well friends.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Great progress and teamwork! We’re praying for you all!
Jay, Isabelle ran her first 5 miler and did well. She’s looking for her next race. She leaves for bethel today. Love you!
Make it a great day!

Posted by: Isty on 6/12/2016 at 9:23 am

Well said Jodi!!!!  Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other!  Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!

Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:12 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Moving On Up

June 10, 2016 - 10:35 pm PT

Waking to clear skies and minimal wind was a great way to start our move to 14K Camp. Of course when you walk amongst the clouds sometimes they come say hello. As we crossed the Polo Fields towards Windy Corner, weather set in and the team got their first taste of what Denali can dish out. We managed quite well and rallied through the pass to the calm on the other side, none the worse for wear, but with a few wider eyes to show for the effort.
After an easy camp build (Thanks Jonesy!), we dined and toasted our friend Ryan for his Birthday!  Katrina even no baked a cheesecake to celebrate the joyous day.

That’s the news from 14K, stay tuned for the next episode.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Jason, we’ve been watching your progress!  We saw Isty and Isabelle today at the Women’s Run…can’t wait for you to see their fabulous dress-up pics!

Sophia and Susan—Trailside friends

Posted by: Susan on 6/11/2016 at 11:54 pm

Happy Birthday Ryan!!! :) (this is a great length to go to avoid another surprise party)

Posted by: Jessica on 6/11/2016 at 2:29 pm

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