Entries By jake beren
June 13, 2016
June 12, 2016 - 10:53 p.m. PDT
We left camp with chilly toes and no one ahead of us. Pushing toward the fixed lines, we were treated to the sun at our first break. The sun (and uphill effort) warmed us up and soon we were steadily working up the fixed lines. It was a beautiful day and the team got their first taste of real altitude. We did fine and cached just below the impressive Washburn Thumb. The time spent on the West Buttress is the best climbing of the route and we had a perfect day to dance on the ridge. Now we are all set up for the next window in the weather to move higher. Tomorrow we will rest up to prepare our bodies for the next challenge.
RMI Guide Jake Beren and team
On The Map
Jake - wishing you all success and the best weather imaginable. Have been following your steady progress - and remembering what a great job you did leading our team back in the day. See you in the fall, if not before.
Posted by: Peter Rogers on 6/14/2016 at 6:59 am
We continue to see the daunting, yet beautiful pictures. We look forward to hearing your stories of struggles and perseverance. The map continues to show you closer to the summit. Keep it up!
Posted by: Shawn Bernard on 6/13/2016 at 10:51 am
June 12, 2016
June 11, 2016 - 11:11 pm PT
Today was a delight. We slept in a little, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hit up some training. The fixed lines loom a thousand feet above us and we prepared ourselves for them with a simulation above camp. We duplicated the transitions with ascenders until the team became certified ascender ninjas. We are ready to tackle them, I only hope they are ready for us.
After our training we rested for a bit and then fortified camp. The team busted out walls and worked very well together on the parapets and ramparts that will secure our castle while we are crusading higher. Should the weather hold we will try to establish a cache for the upper upper mountain. We’ll let you know how it all goes tomorrow. Sleep well friends.
On The Map
Great progress and teamwork! We’re praying for you all!
Jay, Isabelle ran her first 5 miler and did well. She’s looking for her next race. She leaves for bethel today. Love you!
Make it a great day!
Posted by: Isty on 6/12/2016 at 9:23 am
Well said Jodi!!!! Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other! Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!
Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:12 am
June 11, 2016
Categories: Expedition Dispatches
June 10, 2016 - 10:35 pm PT
Waking to clear skies and minimal wind was a great way to start our move to 14K Camp. Of course when you walk amongst the clouds sometimes they come say hello. As we crossed the Polo Fields towards Windy Corner, weather set in and the team got their first taste of what Denali can dish out. We managed quite well and rallied through the pass to the calm on the other side, none the worse for wear, but with a few wider eyes to show for the effort.
After an easy camp build (Thanks Jonesy!), we dined and toasted our friend Ryan for his Birthday! Katrina even no baked a cheesecake to celebrate the joyous day.
That’s the news from 14K, stay tuned for the next episode.
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Jason, we’ve been watching your progress! We saw Isty and Isabelle today at the Women’s Run…can’t wait for you to see their fabulous dress-up pics!
Sophia and Susan—Trailside friends
Posted by: Susan on 6/11/2016 at 11:54 pm
Happy Birthday Ryan!!! :) (this is a great length to go to avoid another surprise party)
Posted by: Jessica on 6/11/2016 at 2:29 pm
June 9, 2016
June 9, 2016 - 8:11 pm PT
“Nature does not hurry, yet all is accomplished”
Today was a much needed rest day for our squad. While we may have been strong enough to move to 14 Camp, we opted to rest and recover from the effort of yesterday’s carry. Sometimes being patient can be tough on a day with good weather, but it pays to be conservative. We had clear weather in the morning, but it quickly turned nasty, making our call to rest even easier.
Spending the day napping, feasting and getting ready for the move sets us up for the upward launch whenever Denali lets us go.
On The Map
Glad to hear that all is well and that the team is rested. Enjoy the breaks when you get them and stay focused when on the move.
Posted by: Kaylor on 6/11/2016 at 7:01 am
Happy Birthday Ryan! Stay safe!
Posted by: Daryl Newman on 6/10/2016 at 5:03 pm
June 9, 2016
June 9, 2016 - 1:56 am PT
We awoke this morning inside a ping pong ball. Watching the weather for a few hours revealed a slightly improving trend, certainly no deterioration. We decided that it was manageable and set forth. The clouds we traveled through and among were friendly and trail breaking was quite doable for this squad. We kept flowing up until we strolled into 14 Camp. We dumped a hefty load of supplies to ease our eventual move to the upper mountain. We are sitting pretty back at 11,000’ Camp, fed and ready for bed. Nice work team!
On The Map
Dear B-Law, if you’re reading this note you already know. The house has been boarded up. The doors. The windows. Everything. We’re at the Comfort Inn. Room 112. I love you. Austin
Have fun Team. Brad, send me a postcard from the top.
Posted by: Austin on 6/9/2016 at 6:40 pm
We miss you so much and love hearing about your team’s progress through Jake’s updates. The boys, the PC’s, Adryan, Taira and I are all praying for favorable weather for you in the days ahead. Stay warm, rested, hydrated and focused! Love from us all!
Posted by: Lil on 6/9/2016 at 6:38 pm
June 7, 2016
June 7, 2016 - 7:24 pm PT
The team continues to do well here at Denali’s 11K Camp. We took an early jaunt down to our cache to get reunited with our extra snacks. Our trail breaking yesterday served us well and we cruised out and back with very good style. Once back, we took an “active rest day,” building walls to fortify camp and reviewing some mountaineering techniques. If the weather holds, we will try to cache higher on the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!
Glad to hear you are progressing up the mountain safely! I’m also glad you can hear about Swiftey’s bladder issues from high altitudes! Be safe, we’re excited for you!
Posted by: Isty's walking partner on 6/8/2016 at 10:22 pm
Hi, Jason! Love the photos that are posted. Keep on climbing; stay warm and safe. So glad you are living your dream.
Posted by: Amey T. on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 pm
June 7, 2016
June 6, 2016 - 11:12 pm PT
D- Day 2016
The team launched at dawn, storming the Kahiltna, avoiding the pillbox seracs overhead and the minefields of crevasses below. After a few hours on the offensive the team took the hill at 10,000 feet and moved into a classic flanking maneuver to set up for our assault on 11K. Once the initial defenses were breached, we dug our foxholes and hunkered down to await the next wave. A reprieve came in the afternoon and the team was able to enjoy a hot meal of Mac and cheese before bedding down for the evening. We suffered no casualties and took no prisoners.
Posted by: Hoppes on 6/7/2016 at 8:58 pm
Whoo Hoo Jason our gang is cheering you on! Continuing to pray for you and your teams success and safety ! The Broek Family
Posted by: Broek Gang on 6/7/2016 at 4:41 pm
June 5, 2016
June 5, 2016 - 5:20 p.m. PDT
Our luck has been pretty good so far—when we arrived at camp yesterday, it had just began to snow and once we finished today’s toil, the same happened.
The job for today was to carry a load up hill to make our move to 11 Camp a little more civilized. It also gives us a chance to acclimatize a little and do some walking with a little less weight. The team did great and though we were in a whiteout for much of the day, we were treated to one or two to looks around. I can’t wait for our team to see where we are, without being obscured by weather. It will be a treat and all in good time.
RMI Guide Jake Beren and team
On The Map
A message for Brad Lawler: very excited for you and hoping the weather clears so you can take in all the beauty. Stay warm and don’t forget your insoles!
Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/6/2016 at 10:25 am
Good to hear all the news! What’s the team name?
Posted by: Isty on 6/5/2016 at 10:59 pm
June 4, 2016
June 4, 2016 - 4:47 pm PT
What a big 24 hours it has been! As yesterday dragged on in the hangar with an ominous dark cloud over the Range, the team seemed pretty resigned to spend another night in Talkeetna. Suddenly the feeling around the airstrip changed as rumors of a slight clearing at basecamp filtered to town. “15% chance, but never hurts to load up the plane,” a pilot friend said.
That 15% chance kept improving to the point where our air service, K2, felt confident enough to send a scouting plane toward Base Camp. We launched our two Otters on the heels of the scout and navigated storm cells and clouds into the mighty Alaska Range. It was completely amazing. Both planes landed and we hustled out to make room for teams waiting to get off the mountain. The weather had let us in, but the pilots didn’t want to push their luck. It was some real impressive flying that put us finally on the mountain after so much preparation. Way to be K2!
Having landed on the glacier, we finalized our rigging and set off to begin the climb. Our late in the day flight put us in an excellent position for lighting out. It was a beautiful evening with some swirling clouds and pleasant walking.
Our journey took us up to the base of Ski Hill, where we built camp after a long day. It just began to snow as we put the finishing touches on camp and we slept the sleep of the just. The adventure continues and it feels great to be in the mountains!
On The Map
Great news!!!!! Exciting to have begun the journey!!! Can’t wait to hear more about it!
What’s happening at home? Paul & Jason ran their first mountain race! Jason, 1:02 and Paul, 1:14. Daddy’s best race was 1:05! Jason can’t wait to rub it in! Isabelle came in 4th in her new age range. Coulda been 2nd or 3rd but belle didn’t know how long a 6K was so she took it slow.
Have fun and be safe! Love you, Honey! Mamma
Posted by: Isty on 6/4/2016 at 11:15 pm
June 2, 2016
June 2, 2016 - 8:31 p.m. PDT
Twas a day to rest here in ol’ Talkeetna. Our team practiced crevasse rescue in the hangar. Scaling ropes like we would to get ourselves out of a crevasse, should we fall into one on the Kahiltna. To cover our bases we then reviewed how to pull a teammate out of a hole using a jungle gym in the yard outside our piles of gear. Then we all solemnly swore not to fall in a crevasse, the most important part of the deal.
Post training we settled in to wait for a weather window decent enough to fly the 50 miles to Kahiltna Basecamp. Unfortunately we were unable to fly today. The team has done well with the uncertainty and though we are raring to go, we know that getting to the mountain safely is a step we mustn’t skip.
Wish us luck for tomorrow and hopefully we will be checking in from the mountains!
Hi sweetheart! I’m so glad you made it to the mountain! I am praying you summit, descend and get back home safely. Like Adryan, Jesse, Tara and Bud, we love you and hope you have a wonderful experience. We’ll watch for Jake’s updates every day!
Posted by: Mama on 6/4/2016 at 6:05 pm
From Adryan: I hope you have a good time climbing the mountain - I’m always thinking about you - I love u Mattie:)
Posted by: Adryan Miller on 6/4/2016 at 4:18 pm